1st-ish Grow, California Snow Auto, Help Needed, Day 19

[Digger3691]

Hi guys, just looking for advice please.

This is my second grow the strain is Fast Buds California Snow Auto, the first was the same but I ruined it quickly with two very noob mistakes. The first was a disastrous transplant followed by overfeeding very quickly both which lead to extremely stunted growth and nitrogen toxicity, so I started anew.


So here she is on day on day 19 and she’s only 4 inches tall??

Growing in 90% CannaCoco 10% perlite.

I didn’t feed until second set of true leaves were there. Then CannaCoco A+B, with alternating CannaZyme and CannaRhizotonic til good run out when the top had dried out. Approx every 3 days.


The foliage was great 3 days ago but then I noticed a few fungus gnats.

I sprayed above and under the leaves as well as all over the substrate with Vitality Plus, due to there being no directions on the bottle and my lack of research I sprayed with about 4 hours of light left.

The next day the leaf tips had started to droop, then I noticed yellow spots and even a hole in one leaf

Since then I haven’t watered til today, no nutes extra CannaZyme.

Please advise if you can, need any more info let me know,

Thanks guys.



PS I’m using Viparspectra PS1500 in a 3’x3’ tent and this is the only plant.

 

[Nine Toed Hippie]

I know the answer because I’ve read it here before but since I have no personal experience with your type of medium I will just give @Bill284 a shout!
Welcome to 420.


NTH

 

[Buds Buddy]

Gnats wont hurt your plants. They are just irritating. The gnat larvae in the soil is the issue as they will eat your roots.
You can use 1 qt. of peroxide mixed in a gallon of water to kill the larvae.
You are growing in Coco so you have to feed every day. You never let Coco dry out & never feed plain water. pH needs to be at 5.8 for Coco.

 

[Digger3691]

Gnats wont hurt your plants. They are just irritating. The gnat larvae in the soil is the issue as they will eat your roots.
You can use 1 qt. of peroxide mixed in a gallon of water to kill the larvae.
You are growing in Coco so you have to feed every day. You never let Coco dry out & never feed plain water. pH needs to be at 5.8 for Coco.

the gnats have disappeared. I wasn’t letting the coco dry out, it’s in a 4 gallon fabric pot, just waited till the very top had changed to a lighter color, i could still feel that the outside of the fabric felt wet.

I realise you’ve probably heard similar cases many times before but this is all new to me.
I have done research but there’s so much differing information out there.

But I’m just wondering what to do now? Does the plant look healthy or should I take some kind of action,
cheers

 

[Buds Buddy]

the gnats have disappeared. I wasn’t letting the coco dry out, it’s in a 4 gallon fabric pot, just waited till the very top had changed to a lighter color, i could still feel that the outside of the fabric felt wet.

I realise you’ve probably heard similar cases many times before but this is all new to me.
I have done research but there’s so much differing information out there.

But I’m just wondering what to do now? Does the plant look healthy or should I take some kind of action,
cheers

The plants look pretty good. I think your light might be a little too close by the way the leaves look.
Are you using Cal Mag at all ? Coco pretty much requires Cal Mag. When I grew in Coco I used 2ml. per gal. during Veg & 3ml. per gal. during flower. I went back to growing in soil because I didn't want to have to feed everyday. I fed once per day during Veg & twice per day during flower. Only way I'd do Coco again is in Auto Pots or using a drip system.

 

[Bill284]

the gnats have disappeared. I wasn’t letting the coco dry out, it’s in a 4 gallon fabric pot, just waited till the very top had changed to a lighter color, i could still feel that the outside of the fabric felt wet.

I realise you’ve probably heard similar cases many times before but this is all new to me.
I have done research but there’s so much differing information out there.

But I’m just wondering what to do now? Does the plant look healthy or should I take some kind of action,
cheers

Day @Digger3691 welcome to 420magazine
Thanks @013 hope you are well Amigo.
As @Buds Buddy mentioned coco requires cal mag.
But there are a couple more things you need to do.
Do you have a ppm meter?
And pH pen?
Coco needs fed every day with nutrients at 5.8 ph with calmag in your water first.
Take your plain water mix in your cal mag well.
Let sit for 10-15 minutes then add micro, grow, bloom nutrients in that order.
Check and set your ppm.
Then set your ph to 5.8 exactly.
Your lady should be at 200 ppm'ish now or 1/4'ish strength nutrients.
Never let coco dry out at all.
Never feed plain water ever.
That little one , don't water her directly.
Make her roots chase the nutrients until you fill the bag.
Any questions at all let me know.
Keep up the good work my friend.

Stay safe
Bill

 

[Roy Growin]

Hiya - not sure I understand your process
My guide says something like
1.5ml/L CaMg
2.3ml/L A&B
2ml/L Rhizotonic
2.5ml/L Cannazyme
1ml/L Boost, rising to 2-4ml/L
Be sure to leave Rhizo to sit well, as it tends to cause pH to creep up
If you are maxing out these plants you may well start to see a K def in the lower leaves
To rectify that, I occasionally supplement with 1-2ml/L GroSure/Seaweed 5-3-8
Hope that helps

 

[Bill284]

Hiya - not sure I understand your process
My guide says something like
1.5ml/L CaMg
2.3ml/L A&B
2ml/L Rhizotonic
2.5ml/L Cannazyme
1ml/L Boost, rising to 2-4ml/L
Be sure to leave Rhizo to sit well, as it tends to cause pH to creep up
If you are maxing out these plants you may well start to see a K def in the lower leaves
To rectify that, I occasionally supplement with 1-2ml/L GroSure/Seaweed 5-3-8
Hope that helps

Hey Amigo hope you are good today.
This might help.

Stay safe
Bill

 

[Buds Buddy]

Hey Amigo hope you are good today.
This might help.

Stay safe
Bill

Is that hour wait for a "Powder Type Silica" ? Not sure why it would take an hour with a liquid.

 

[Bill284]

Is that hour wait for a "Powder Type Silica" ? Not sure why it would take an hour with a liquid.

Hey Buds
I read silica can take up to 24 hr to dissolve, depending on make.
I think @Rexer had some good info on that subject the other day.
Mr Rexer hope you are well my friend.
Do you have that information Re: silicate rates to dissolve?

Stay safe
Bill

Edit:
Here is someone who saw immediate improvement by switching.

Thought I'd say Hi since I'm gonna pick your brains

“Thought I’d say high since I’m gonna pick your brains” Welcome, welcome, however with my brains it might be slim pickings! (LOL) You are not alone. NTH

www.420magazine.com

 

[Buds Buddy]

Hey Buds
I read silica can take up to 24 hr to dissolve, depending on make.
I think @Rexer had some good info on that subject the other day.
Mr Rexer hope you are well my friend.
Do you have that information Re: silicate rates to dissolve?

Stay safe
Bill

Edit:
Here is someone who saw immediate improvement by switching.

Thought I'd say Hi since I'm gonna pick your brains

“Thought I’d say high since I’m gonna pick your brains” Welcome, welcome, however with my brains it might be slim pickings! (LOL) You are not alone. NTH

www.420magazine.com

Just wondering because it doesn't say anything about waiting on the Alchemist Stout MSA Silica bottle label. I've been mixing right away.

 

[Rexer]

Potassium Silicates take a while to form a bond with the water. There is some science backing the method, and is not "bioscience ". (Not that anybody here suggested that)

As to whether that same requirement exists for the use of Monosilic acids I have no idea. Emilya would be someone who may be able to answer.

Here's the link for a conversation on it

Mixing MC, Si, CalMag - Nutrient Order

 

[DonkeyDick]

then I noticed a few fungus gnats.

Root eating wrigglers don’t help.

the gnats have disappeared

This would be a miracle. Treat them anyway. Use bacteria. I use some sachet stuff called Soil Activator dissolved in the feed. Mosquito bits are commonly used the same way. Get rid of them for good.

extra CannaZyme

2.5ml/litre is a full dose. I use this gear to dissolve roots that remain in my sifted soil when I recycle it. The one time I added it to a living plant as per instructions on the bottle - that plant died. I thought I’d be clever and - IDK - precondition the medium for its next step while a plant was flowering. It stopped feeding and I couldn’t get her to start up again so she was an early harvest.
I don’t understand why you are using this product, least of all in a non soil medium?
If you stop using it now and get her on some good nutes, inoculate the bejesus out of your medium - more mycos - and hope for the best.

Does the plant look healthy or should I take some kind of action,

You have some pretty sound advice from the 420 crew already (go team ). Let us know how you get on?
Welcome to the Mag BTW

 

[Digger3691]

I saw one that I thought was a gnat in the morning, later I saw another 4/5 while watching closely.
I sprayed a product called vitality plus twice on consecutive days and haven’t seen them since. As well as all over the plant I added to the surface too.

I’d also seen an insect looks like a tiny grasshopper, bout 4mm, very bright green. They both landed on the side of the fabric pot. I can’t really give a good description as I squashed them immediately, but I haven’t seen any since.

The Coco I used is prewashed, buffered etc (Canna Coco Professional Plus), I’m growing in a tent which is in a room with no direct outside access.

How do these buggers get in?

 

[Digger3691]

I’m now feeding about 3/4 strength Canna A+B everyday with Canna Rhizotonic every other day.

Apart from the earlier effected leaves she looks healthy but still short. The leaves that first appeared are now huge and I fear are blocking light to new growth.

I’ll add photos in an hour or two as I’m at work now, but as she’s short I’m not sure how to sort of train.
Without my calendar I’m not sure but I think she’s already 24 days and as an auto may start to go into flower very soon.

Thanks for all your help guys, it’s appreciated by noobs like myself.

 

[Digger3691]

I’m now feeding about 3/4 strength Canna A+B everyday with Canna Rhizotonic every other day.

Apart from the earlier effected leaves she looks healthy but still short. The leaves that first appeared are now huge and I fear are blocking light to new growth.

I’ll add photos in an hour or two as I’m at work now, but as she’s short I’m not sure how to sort of train.
Without my calendar I’m not sure but I think she’s already 24 days and as an auto may start to go into flower very soon.

Thanks for all your help guys, it’s appreciated by noobs like myself.

heres photos almost live, please give me some advice As how to progress, how to train if needed etc
all photos taken just now.

 

[Digger3691]

I’m really worried that she’s so short, is this normal for an auto on day 21 (I just checked dates to confirm).
Also with great big fan leaves going laterally how to train if I need too.

 

[DonkeyDick]

How do these buggers get in?

Canna Terra Pro (a “soil-esque” potting mix I use) comes preconditioned with gnats for your convenience.

She has a nice, tight node structure to her. I’ve never grown an autoflower before so I won’t be much help.

If you top her you might trigger either massively gratifying side branching or flower, in which case she’ll stay little.

As for the bending her over type of LST my guess is her tight node spacing isn’t going to be very forgiving there.

The easier option may be to keep your hands in your pockets and see where she gets to on her own terms. You give her light and food and love and let her go. She’ll show you what she’s got.

Even if I knew what I would do I would say it’s up to you anyway - you are king of your own domain there. Autos are notoriously fickle for not always giving a grower the control they want. The good thing with this being an early (firstish?) grow is you’ve cleverly factored in room for improvement with future grows. You have your equipment set up and lots of great gardening ideas to try. Next time try a feminised photoperiod if you want to practice all the training controls and techniques? Fun time ahead. Buds here soon.

 

[Digger3691]

Canna Terra Pro (a “soil-esque” potting mix I use) comes preconditioned with gnats for your convenience.

She has a nice, tight node structure to her. I’ve never grown an autoflower before so I won’t be much help.

If you top her you might trigger either massively gratifying side branching or flower, in which case she’ll stay little.

As for the bending her over type of LST my guess is her tight node spacing isn’t going to be very forgiving there.

The easier option may be to keep your hands in your pockets and see where she gets to on her own terms. You give her light and food and love and let her go. She’ll show you what she’s got.

Even if I knew what I would do I would say it’s up to you anyway - you are king of your own domain there. Autos are notoriously fickle for not always giving a grower the control they want. The good thing with this being an early (firstish?) grow is you’ve cleverly factored in room for improvement with future grows. You have your equipment set up and lots of great gardening ideas to try. Next time try a feminised photoperiod if you want to practice all the training controls and techniques? Fun time ahead. Buds here soon.

maybe training was the wrong word to use, but what I meant was this huge leaf in the first pic here is hiding all the new growth underneath because it’s so tight.
ive read de-foliation is not good for autos (but I’ve read so many conflicting things too), should I just leave as is, is it possible to remove such a big leaf and not cause stress, or should I try to somehow tie the big leag down.
With the one overhead light it’s hard to get light to the canopy underneath it, what I have been doing is holding the big leaf down for a few seconds, so it stays in place awhile, the putting the pot on an angle. Obviously this is not a great solution but by doing this and revolving the pot at least the lower leaves get a little light. Or will this defeat the purpose in the end and create “popcorn” buds?

 

[DonkeyDick]

maybe training was the wrong word to use, but what I meant was this huge leaf in the first pic here is hiding all the new growth underneath because it’s so tight.
ive read de-foliation is not good for autos (but I’ve read so many conflicting things too), should I just leave as is, is it possible to remove such a big leaf and not cause stress, or should I try to somehow tie the big leag down.
With the one overhead light it’s hard to get light to the canopy underneath it, what I have been doing is holding the big leaf down for a few seconds, so it stays in place awhile, the putting the pot on an angle. Obviously this is not a great solution but by doing this and revolving the pot at least the lower leaves get a little light. Or will this defeat the purpose in the end and create “popcorn” buds?

What did you decide to do Digger?