300W LED vs. 400W HID Demonstration

[Propa Gator]

Re: 420 Cannasumer Reports Competition - GrowLEDHydro 300w LED vs. 400w HID

I am very surprised and better informed, seeing the reading on that mag ballast

 

[Setting Sun]

Re: 420 Cannasumer Reports Competition - GrowLEDHydro 300w LED vs. 400w HID

I'm lurking bro!

Everything looks great! I haven't decided which team I'm on, the LED or HID team. Perhaps I'll just remain neutral and enjoy the grow?

I'll pull up a seat right next to you on those mid-field bleachers .

RE your mysterious calcium deficiency in your outdoor grow:
Try amending the soil with some gypsum next time. Problem solved.

Thanks for the tip! I'll pick some up.

 

[dogsnova]

Re: 420 Cannasumer Reports Competition - GrowLEDHydro 300w LED vs. 400w HID

I am very surprised and better informed, seeing the reading on that mag ballast

My mag ballast pulls basically 500w also w/MH bulb.. Digital is the better option for HID for sure..

I think SS is using the digital ballast for this comparison..

 

[Setting Sun]

Re: 420 Cannasumer Reports Competition - GrowLEDHydro 300w LED vs. 400w HID

I am very surprised and better informed, seeing the reading on that mag ballast

These little gadgets can be useful at times

 

[Setting Sun]

Re: 420 Cannasumer Reports Competition - GrowLEDHydro 300w LED vs. 400w HID

My mag ballast pulls basically 500w also w/MH bulb.. Digital is the better option for HID for sure..

I think SS is using the digital ballast for this comparison..

I have two digital 400w ballasts, a Lumatek and a Galaxy, and I'm using the Lumatek for this grow.

Hopefully, I'll be picking up one of Lumatek's new HPS bulbs this Thursday for after the flip.

Gator is running CMH bulbs, which won't work with digital ballasts unless you want to spend big bucks on the GE UltraMax. Since they aren't horticultural bulbs, there hasn't been much R&D in our favor.

 

[Doc Bud]

Re: 420 Cannasumer Reports Competition - GrowLEDHydro 300w LED vs. 400w HID

Not lamenting, just [like Grandpa McCoy used to say. "No brag, just] fact."

Ladies looked good [daze since you posted pix, we're starving for eyecandyout here] last time I saw. ?Where did you acquire the genetic information for these Pure Power Plantas? They look to be very similar to my Kushativa, which is 50/50 Sativa X KushIndica. Couldn't find out much about the genetics of this line, but I'm curious how much they might stretch out once you flip them under the LED. You may have significant differences between the tents in the stretch phase of this grow. You my friend, are doing your due diligence with regards to these variables by keeping everything else as constant as possible, and this will highlight the differences between the light sources, to the benefit of all.

b

No kidding!
Setting Sun is blazing trails here. I wouldn't be surprised if he was featured in a magazine in the near future. When that happens, I can tell everyone, "hey! I know that guy!"

Ummm....yeah....that would be cool.

 

[derrickbeau]

Re: 420 Cannasumer Reports Competition - GrowLEDHydro 300w LED vs. 400w HID

Nirvana Seeds PPP stands for Pure Power Plant and is a strong mostly sativa variety developed from South African strains in the late 90's. PPP has a great growth potential and it's cannabis seeds produces loads of trichomes and has become the latest trend among the big bud commercial growers because of its high yields. PPP is suitable for indoor growing and grows to a medium height. Its flowers between 8-9 weeks. Harvest outdoors is October. Pure Power Plant offers a powerful social buzz with a THC of 15-20% and a pleasant pine aftertaste

 

[The Lurker]

Re: 420 Cannasumer Reports Competition - GrowLEDHydro 300w LED vs. 400w HID

Now we're talkin'! Plants're startin' to shape up in those tents, SS. 'Twas nearly a year ago (well, it will be in two more months, or thereabouts) that the last competition set sail for uncharted territory...Navigator, time again to break out that compass, sextant, and astrolabe, if you please! By the light of the sun, moon, and stars shall we guide thee, darling vessel, under yon heavens...

BTW, anyone know why we went from 'Consumer' to 'Cannasumer'? Was that just a clever marketing thing - or are we trying to avoid future lawsuits with a well-known public product testing magazine?

^^^^

Post of the Year, Lurker!

Ditto

very nice post Lurker!!

I have to say I love the CRF / TRF discussion - DocBud, IrishBoy, SS, The Lurker... you guys ROCK!

Thanks guys! The real proof of course will be in the actual results that occur in the gardens being run right here by folks we know. Some very good stuff going on with these particular trials. Rather nice strain, nute and temp-specific info being done that will be available for future reference.

The only problem with smaller meals of CRF's throughout the grow is that a grower would have to top-dress the smaller meals, and that is a significantly less efficient way to deliver CRF nutes than incorporating them evenly into the medium at the get-go. I suspect that any advantage from the smaller meals may be negated by the less consistent delivery of nutes secondary to top-dressing.

The upper layer of most media, especially soilless media, is not a hospitable place for prills...

In dirt, top dressing works better than in most soilless media because dirt retains water better, but it will work even better in dirt when incorporated evenly into the mix.

Temperature and moisture levels fluctuate much more at the surface layer of *any* media.

One middle-ground solution is to poke some deep holes into the medium with something like a sharpened 1/2" dowel and sprinkle the prills down in there. It doesn't incorporate them evenly into the mix, which seems to give the best results, but it does get them down into more stable temps and moisture levels. That method is working very well for a couple of mother plants that I wanted to use CRF's on.

Agreed, with CRFs that choose to cooperate in the temps you're runnin'. Yep, dry nutes don't do much, either...

Funny you should mention that...I was browsing a few weeks back for something that would fit that 'middle ground' perfectly; there was a low-rent version with fewer holes I found on amazon, but then I ran across these:

Deep Drip Shrub & Tree Watering Stakes:

The 14 ½ inch unit is perfect for small trees and shrubs with shallow roots, like rose bushes, ornamental trees, or in commercial use for trees still in boxes. They are also great for hanging tomato plants, strawberry pots, large container pots, and to ensure a small new tree gets water to the root ball to ensure its survival in its first year...

There are multiple holes in the bottom half of the spike, internally covered by a mesh filter that allows water to flow out, but keeps dirt from getting in, settling, and clogging the tube. The UV protected cap has multiple functions, as it acts as a protective/reinforced cover when hammering in to the ground, keeps rocks and leaves from entering the shaft, and holds the ¼ inch drip line securely in place...

Whether you connect it to a drip line or use it with a garden hose, Deep Drip is one of the most effective devices to get water, oxygen, and fertilizer to your tree's roots quickly and efficiently.

Deep Drip will conserve water as 100% of the water directed to the tree is going deep into the ground, without losing any water to evaporation or run-off. And the internal filter keeps dirt and rock from entering the device...

Fertilizer can be fed into the shaft, having water pass through the granules and carry the nutrients into the soil and directly to the roots, thus promoting a healthier tree and root system. Water soluble fertilizers are recommended. Fertilizing within Deep Drip, instead of through an emitter, guards against clogged emitters or tubing, with no waste.

Cool, eh? Check out the notes/FAQ, some good info there. While we're not necessarily having to contend with huge trees and clay-based soils here, the same principles apply. A few of these in three gallon pots might provide an effective 'middle ground', no?

I like the fact that you can use it to get a quasi-permanent shaft directly to the root zone, without further disrupting the rooting system, that you can feed with CRFs and water directly (either by hand into the shaft, or by drip/hose) - and if temps get too hot and over-fertilization occurs, simply remove (or take out an internal (permeable) sheath you could also insert inside to hold ferts) and adjust as necessary. Even insert a drip line at the surface and/or in the stake, and take care of both watering zones... (though with a coco Hempy, less of an issue...still, couldn't hurt)

Speaking of auto-watering, and reading about Munki's test runs trying to get the new drip lines/emitters dialed in (tricky little suckers!), I found this from the 'Masters of Water' at Claber:

It's a (vacation) auto-watering drip system (designed to feed houseplants) that runs off one 9V battery for about a year, and can run from 1-20 drip lines with highly accurate flow rates up to ~4oz/day per dripper (i.e. ~81 oz (2.5 liters) per day max). A 6.6 gal reservoir holds water - or nutrient solution.

There's actually more sales info on other sites than in the manufacturer's description, such as Amazon, Drip Depot and Mr. Drip. Prices seem to run in the low $70's.

(Drip Depot has a video of it in operation in the 'Product Links' box)

While a max of 4 oz/dripper isn't exactly a torrent (it's meant for house plants, after all) - if you have, let's say, just 4 plants - that's a good five drippers per plant (20 oz/day) that you can feed. With the lower transpiration rates under LED, and good moisture retention from something like coco, that's plenty for maintenance watering - unless you've got really big plants.

As for vacations: if you water the plants really well right before taking off, and stick the system on a 30 day timer set to go on ~3-4 days after you leave, you might actually get a good two weeks out of the system on max drip, using all emitters.

Combine that with a few tree stakes, and the combo appears to be virtually stoner-proof.

Butt-simple, as Gator would say - I love that term!

I've read several articles stating that a 3-1-2 NPK ratio is optimal in general for most plants, and that analysis of foliage typically shows that NPK is stored in plant tissue in that approximate ratio. I'd have to look for the cites, but I've read that in more than one place.

That's why I'm currently using the Dynamite purple, which is 15-5-9. My thinking on that, which is very open to learning and change, is that I'd rather have an optimal NPK ratio (generally speaking) and be less concerned over the micros, since I can compensate for that easily with supplements versus having to fix NPK issues.

Understood. (Glad that you're open to change, too - always a good character trait to have) The nutrient ratios that get fixed within plant tissues notwithstanding, one thing that's probably worth mentioning here is that, in soil and soil-like soilless mixes especially, the availability of Phosphorus to plants is much lower than what you actually feed them, for several reasons:

Phosphorus Uptake by Plants: From Soil to Cell (Plant Physiology)

(Direct PDF): Phosphorus Uptake by Plants: From Soil to Cell -- Schachtman et al. 116 (2): 447 -- PLANT PHYSIOLOGY

After N, P is the second most frequently limiting macronutrient for plant growth...

Although the total amount of P in the soil may be high, it is often present in unavailable forms or in forms that are only available outside of the rhizosphere...the recovery of applied P by crop plants in a growing season is very low, because in the soil more than 80% of the P becomes immobile and unavailable for plant uptake because of adsorption, precipitation, or conversion to the organic form...

In the absence of available P, plants respond by sending out roots and cannibalizing existing structures (below). Note that in cases of excess P, plants also have a number of mechanisms to prevent toxicity...

When the supply of Pi is limited, plants grow more roots, increase the rate of uptake by roots from the soil, retranslocate Pi from older leaves, and deplete the vacuolar stores of Pi. In addition, mycorrhizal fungi may more extensively colonize the roots. Conversely, when plants have an adequate supply of Pi and are absorbing it at rates that exceed demand, a number of processes act to prevent the accumulation of toxic Pi concentrations. These processes include the conversion of Pi into organic storage compounds (e.g. phytic acid), a reduction in the Pi uptake rate from the outside solution (Lee et al., 1990), and Pi loss by efflux, which can be between 8 and 70% of the influx (Bieleski and Ferguson, 1983). Any or all of these processes may be strategies for the maintenance of intracellular Pi homeostasis.

That's also one reason why large, well-known agricultural universities like Ohio State and Texas A&M still advocate more P in crop fertilization treatment regimens. P is a limiting factor - better to have more and not need it, than need it and not have it.

The general availability of P near the root zone is depleted quickly - and, by and large, doesn't get replaced. Roots either have to grow out looking for more (bioavailable) P, or they have to get fed. And the stuff you do feed tends to get locked up...
-------

Also, in soil, symbiotic organisms play a huge role:

There is a general perception that Pi uptake by plants occurs as a direct consequence of uptake from the soil by root cells. However, in more than 90% of land plants, symbiotic associations are formed with mycorrhizal fungi. In these plants the fungal hyphae play an important role in the acquisition of P for the plant...

Actual root uptake mechanisms and symbiosis with mycorrhizae have been rather poorly understood until fairly recently; newer studies seem to reinforce their importance though, such as this one from just this past August:

A Phosphate Transporter from the Root Endophytic Fungus Piriformospora indica Plays a Role in Phosphate Transport to the Host Plant

In true (NFT, DWC, Ebb/Flow, etc.) hydroponics, in general, plants absorb nutrients with a much different (better) efficiency than in soil/soil-like mediums, so the ratio of nutrients required in solution vs. soil is adjusted accordingly. (One reason why I like them so much, even if it can be higher maintenance overall)

In soil, (outside of Nitrogen), due to the dynamics of feeding and bioavailability (both with P, and K also, which leeches faster than I'd like), I'm more inclined to go with something closer to an all-purpose ratio - or even slightly higher in P - even when one's using containers over true outside (bed/row) gardening.

I'd note that the CRFs tend to dump more N early anyway, so a ~13-13-13 mix'll dump enough for the veg period just fine - depending on how long your full cycle is.

Ya gotta actually get that P into the plant first! Just my 0.02.

(3-1-2 should work *ok* for veg - and lawns at least seem to love it. )

There are few hills I would choose to die on today, and a hill of fertilizer certainly isn't one of them

I used to be in Marketing...I know all about big steaming piles of fertilizer--!

(and hot air)

I'm lurking bro!

Hey, that's my job--!

(And I'm piss poor at it, too, it seems...right OBX?)

I haven't decided which team I'm on, the LED or HID team. Perhaps I'll just remain neutral and enjoy the grow?

Hell, where's the fun in that?

Setting Sun is blazing trails here...

He Rode a Blazing Saddle
He Wore a Shining Star...

Not to mention the nudity!

Self-portrait?

(Thought your third eye'd be up a little higher...)

<Namaste>

in the bigger picture you're a King, my hippie friend

^^^^^
(B At The Beach?)

The benefits of bare vertical bulbs, both from heat management and light energy, are very significant and very worth pursuing.

I'm a believer, but yes, keeping things more or less conventional for *now*.

Darn tootin'. Even the best horizontal reflectors'll lose you ~35-40% of the total radiant energy emitted from the bulb.

That means that when you take the reflector off, you gain back around ~60-65%! Put a vertical fan on it and there's your TM.

If that doesn't put a vertical smile on your face, I don't know what will...

<wink>

I'll be standing on the shoulders of Gators .

Jus' make sure they don't snap at your feet--!

[my favs Quicksilver Messenger Service

I take it you're referring to the first two albums only - and more specifically the second, correct? That true SF sound...

Check out the pupils on that 'girl', she must like jets.

First thing I look(ed) for at a Dead concert.

(the girls, that is...then the pupils)

...Seven hours later, driving home on the freeway at 3am, with just a few red tail lights ahead of you in the distance, Union Metal and Millerbernd street lights running towards the horizon in majestic columns as far as the eye can see - and in those moments when you cease concentrating fully and choose to 'fade' for just a bit, sinking back into a slight warmth running up your spine...feel like you're driving right up into the heavens themselves.

(sigh)

-TL

 

[IrishBoy]

Re: 420 Cannasumer Reports Competition - GrowLEDHydro 300w LED vs. 400w HID

i like the idea of those drip things and its also cool how you can pull it out when ur gonna flush for harvest. but the price for those is crazy, 8 of them is $75. Fu*k that, i could just build some out of PVC and drill some holes for a few bucks.. thanks for the idea, i might make some

 

[Setting Sun]

Re: 420 Cannasumer Reports Competition - GrowLEDHydro 300w LED vs. 400w HID

took lotsa pics today:

and now the LED side:

They're doing well and growing fast. I like to LST after I water, and the buckets will need watering in probably 2-3 days, so I'll LST them soon.

The LED light is 22" off the canopy, and the HID is at 20".


I don't see any notable differences between the two groups at this point. They'll probably be LST'ed on the next update.

peeps!

 

[Setting Sun]

Re: 420 Cannasumer Reports Competition - GrowLEDHydro 300w LED vs. 400w HID

temps on the underside of the leaves were essentially the same as on the topside.

The plants seem happy with canopy temps around 80. They're not stressed and showing good growth without excessive stretch.

 

[IrishBoy]

Re: 420 Cannasumer Reports Competition - GrowLEDHydro 300w LED vs. 400w HID

man your off the hook lots of nice toys to do a bad ass side by side.

so from what i can see is that in each tent the led is running a little cooler then the HID but for watt for watt the HID runs allot cooler not as a complete unit in ur tent with air cooling threw the reflector. i figure this because the led is drawling less watts and its close to the HID temps.

but i also look at the big picture and think about how much easier and less work you have to do to keep the led grow rooms cooler. you dont have to run all the hoses to air cool the unit. also the led unit is a complete unit in the tent, unlike the HID unit, if that HID ballast was in the tent the temps would be even higher and if the reflector wasn't air cooled, but just pulling the air out like the led tent is.

i would have to say the led runs much cooler? am i thinking right? or am i to high to know WTF i am talking about?lol!

I would love to see what the temps were like once the ballast was in the tent and the HID light was cooler just like the led tent. just wonder how much heat would be their? I also think about how most growers including me still have mag ballast that put off tons of heat unlike the bad ass digi ones. I know not too many growers keep their ballast in their tent.lol and air cool their lights..lol. but just thinking of how much heat watch unit puts out completed in one area like the led light does?

I am not in any way asking you to test this because thats allot of work, i am just thinking of how the heat really compares to each unit as a complete seat up counting everything, because allot of growers i know cant run their ballast out side of their grow area because of stealth issues, and most of them run the old school ballast that puts off tons of heat, makes a loud hummming noise, and weights a shit load of weight. I know if i ever run my HID again i will buy a digi ballast for sure

 

[IrishBoy]

Re: 420 Cannasumer Reports Competition - GrowLEDHydro 300w LED vs. 400w HID

i have been meaning to ask you where you got ur drain tray at? and how much?

i own one of the big name brand ones and its a 4'x4' one, its really nice and works great but their just allot of money, i am looking for a smaller one to put in a 3'x3' tent.. also i was looking at different tents, and its between yours and the grow lab, ur seems to be more light proof, but the only bad thing that i can see being a problem for me is that i think ur tent only hold around 60lbs? and the grow lab hold 100lbs. since i have 3 lights and a air filter i think the growlab would be better.

One thing i dont know too much about is air filters, knowing what filter size to use and how to know what size to get? do you go by the fan CFM or the room size? or both? do you have to have a big filter for a good size room or do u just go by the CFM and the size dosent matter too much? also do you know how long filter last for? I dont smell anything, but i would love to know a base line for i know when to save up to get a new one and not have to worry about it when its too late and let smell get out.

 

[Setting Sun]

Re: 420 Cannasumer Reports Competition - GrowLEDHydro 300w LED vs. 400w HID

man your off the hook lots of nice toys to do a bad ass side by side.

Those infrared thermometers have come down in price, they're fast and easy to use, and the thing is giving me some confirmation and peace of mind as to where to position the lights.

It's not like you need one of these things to see light stress in your plants, but I'd rather avoid having to see it to know I'm too low, you know what I'm sayin' . Besides, who doesn't like shooting things with lasers?

Seriously though, this is a useful gadget IMO.

i would have to say the led runs much cooler? am i thinking right? or am i to high to know WTF i am talking about?lol!

I would love to see what the temps were like once the ballast was in the tent and the HID light was cooler just like the led tent. just wonder how much heat would be their?

I can tell you how hot the HID tent was running without the air-cooled hood, because I tried to run it that way when I was setting up the grow.

Without air-cooling, the HID tent ran 10-12 degrees over ambient, while the LED runs 5-6. Since ambient temps in my garage are often well over 80 in summer, I couldn't run the HID tent without air-cooling the hood.

The LED setup, on the other hand, is clean and simple, without any ducting obstructing airflow, and since it runs only 5-6 degrees over ambient, I can use it year-round in my garage without having to resort to something more complex like air-cooling.

Both tents run cool now, but it was a *lot* easier to set up the LED tent, and it's cleaner and roomier in there too.

Another hassle with running an air-cooled HID hood is swapping bulbs, especially if the glass isn't hinged, like on the hood I'm using. I have to take the plants out because I won't risk dropping the glass, and then I put a milk crate in there with a big pillow on top and drop the light down on top of that so I can open it safely to change bulbs. It's a pain.

I also think about how most growers including me still have mag ballast that put off tons of heat unlike the bad ass digi ones. I know not too many growers keep their ballast in their tent.lol and air cool their lights..lol. but just thinking of how much heat watch unit puts out completed in one area like the led light does?

I am not in any way asking you to test this because thats allot of work, i am just thinking of how the heat really compares to each unit as a complete seat up counting everything, because allot of growers i know cant run their ballast out side of their grow area because of stealth issues, and most of them run the old school ballast that puts off tons of heat, makes a loud hummming noise, and weights a shit load of weight. I know if i ever run my HID again i will buy a digi ballast for sure

I have a magnetic 400w metal halide ballast, so I could run it and the Lumatek inside the tent to see what the temps would be, but I don't think that would reflect the situation you're describing above. Growers who run tents can almost always run their ballasts externally, unless they're using one of those self-contained HID lights, which I think is a minority of growers.

In a larger grow room, running the ballast inside the room wouldn't produce as much heat as running one inside a tent, so I don't think the numbers would be very comparable.

Would be a good strategy for raising temps inside the tent in winter, but then it with light's out that I need higher temps.

thanks Irish

 

[IrishBoy]

Re: 420 Cannasumer Reports Competition - GrowLEDHydro 300w LED vs. 400w HID

nice post! thanks for the good feedback.

i agree 100% i dont know anyone that would run their ballast in their tent unless if heat was needed.. i was thinking more about my setup, where i grow in a smaller room 6'x10'x8'. i know my mag 1000w ballast added allot of heat into my room for sure, but my ventilation wasn't nearly as good as it is now.. i was thinking for more in the smaller grow area setups that couldn't put the ballast out side of the room, and comparing each light in that way. but if thats the case the grower is better off getting a digi one IMO.

thanks for the info on how much heat difference the HID is without air-cooling, very important info to me. ive always wanted to know this.. I would have to agree 100% that i love not having to run tons of ducting to air cool my HID light, my air setup in very simple with the leds and theirs allot more room and easier to move the lights up and down. its as simple and hooking up a filter and fan and blowing straight out of the grow area. not having to run ducts on both sides of a reflector then down to where ur air filter is and to the other end to a fan then out of the grow area. I dont miss that at all.lol

so with ur laser, you know how to adjust ur lights by the canopy temp? how do you know what temp is best or what are you using as a base line for temp degree to know how high to keep the light?

 

[dogsnova]

Re: 420 Cannasumer Reports Competition - GrowLEDHydro 300w LED vs. 400w HID

When your girls have full buds/flowers, that's when the IR gun will come in real handy IMO..

Buds/flowers are what absorbs heat the most... As a matter of fact MJ buds are one of the most heat absorbing flowers on the plant... That's how LEO finds the girls outdoors in my neck of the woods each year... They wait till the fall time (when it's cool outside) then fly over looking for high heat signatures on the ground.. Because MJ flowers/buds absorb so much heat, they can spot the girls on the ground very easy.. LEO don't even bother flying overhead in my neck of the woods until it's fall time and cool outside.. LEO won't fly overhead in the spring or summer because MJ leaves won't absorb any more heat then a maple tree leaf will.. So IR detection from the air won't work until full buds/flowers are present..

SS I DO understand you using the heat sig on the leaves to tell how high or low to put the light and it's a damn good idea for sure..

So SS when your girls are in full bloom under the LED or HID and then checked after 12 hours under each of their respective lights... That's IMO when we will see the LED unit shine... The HID unit will put off more radiant heat durring the day witch in turn will be absorbed more by the HID flowers... This IMO is one of the reasons I seem to be getting more potent meds under LED lights.. Combine that with the fact that these LED units use the correct peak spectrums for our favorite girls and there you have it... Cooler less heat stressed flowers and the correct peak NM's = much better meds...

SS I think your IR gun will help prove the above statement to be TRUE....lol

I'll go out on limb here and say there will be at least a 5 degree difference between the LED flower surface temp and the HID flowers surface temp in full bloom after 12 hrs of lighting.. Hell it could very well be a 10 degree difference when it's all said and done..

Of course the above statement is assuming the HID is 12" or lower off the canopy, like the rest of us have them.. If the HID light is still 20" off the canopy during full bloom then all bets are off...lol

 

[smokinweedgi]

Re: 420 Cannasumer Reports Competition - GrowLEDHydro 300w LED vs. 400w HID

thank you for the power usage numbers i requested on my last post
im new to growing so hope this is not a stupid question ,sorry if it is
do you have any plans for quality testing?
would it be possible to have a bud from each grow tested for thc content ?
or even more crudelly a trichome count over set size on close bud leaf or even a blind smoke test ?

very interested in the difference in quality

thanks for a great journal and good luck with your grow

 

[dogsnova]

Re: 420 Cannasumer Reports Competition - GrowLEDHydro 300w LED vs. 400w HID

do you have any plans for quality testing?

I thought I read of THC testing at Oaksterdam University for $100... Is this true anyone that lives near by there?..

Kind of expensive but would be cool I guess..

Personally I would love to be able to test the THC content of my different growing techniques and lighting schedules..

THC testing just might be a million dollar industry in the near future folks.. Were there is a need there is always a buck to be made...

 

[Setting Sun]

Re: 420 Cannasumer Reports Competition - GrowLEDHydro 300w LED vs. 400w HID

Not lamenting, just [like Grandpa McCoy used to say. "No brag, just] fact."

Ladies looked good [daze since you posted pix, we're starving for eyecandyout here] last time I saw. ?Where did you acquire the genetic information for these Pure Power Plantas? They look to be very similar to my Kushativa, which is 50/50 Sativa X KushIndica. Couldn't find out much about the genetics of this line, but I'm curious how much they might stretch out once you flip them under the LED. You may have significant differences between the tents in the stretch phase of this grow. You my friend, are doing your due diligence with regards to these variables by keeping everything else as constant as possible, and this will highlight the differences between the light sources, to the benefit of all.

b

This is the blurb from Nirvana, which I think has already been posted, but this one might add some detail.

"Nirvana's Pure Power Plant, a strong F1 hybrid, was developed in the late 90s from a South African Sativa and a fat Indica from the USA. Pure Power Plant's tremendous growth potential is a prime example of the hybrid vigour often seen in marijuana seeds. This variety is the latest trend among Dutch commercial cannabis growers because of its high yields of valuable marijuana buds. Pure Power Plant has a pleasant pine-like aftertaste and a powerful social buzz."


I'm thinkin' that they're gonna at least double in height when they stretch, and I'm also really curious to see any difference in stretch between the lights.

Doing my best to keep things balanced and equal, and so far, I feel very good about things.

Thanks for your kind words, bel. I do hope this grow is to the benefit of all.

I use the word "we" a lot in my posts, because I see these comparison grows as a community thing, and that makes all the work and attention to detail worth it for me.

thanks again bro

 

[Setting Sun]

Re: 420 Cannasumer Reports Competition - GrowLEDHydro 300w LED vs. 400w HID

No kidding!
Setting Sun is blazing trails here. I wouldn't be surprised if he was featured in a magazine in the near future. When that happens, I can tell everyone, "hey! I know that guy!"

Ummm....yeah....that would be cool.

I'm honored to have you as a friend .