3 x Indica - LED & HPS

re: 3 x Indica - LED & HPS

This is a little lengthy but well worth the read if you like learning

Potassium Silicate otherwise know as Pro silicate or Rhino Skin or Silicone etc does more then then give plants healthy cell walls

Full, big resin glands loaded with THC are what we want more of on our marijuana flowers.

The important news today is when you feed the earth element silicon to your marijuana crops as potassium silicate, you get verifiable, significant increases in THC, crop health, growth rates, and productivity.

Let's take a look at the details...

Silicon is the second most abundant element in the earth's crust (oxygen is the most abundant).

Here's how important silicon is: It plays a major role in plant metabolism, nutrients uptake, structural strength, resistance to fungal diseases, pests, drought, heat, and cold.

What marijuana growers don't always know is that by end of grow phase, marijuana plants grown in soil have exhausted their supply of silicon.

And in some cases, soil silicon is not easily absorbed by marijuana plants.

In your soilless hydroponics garden, silicon is totally unavailable because it's not in your root zone at all, unless you specifically add it as "silicate."

Your marijuana plants may grow adequately without silicon, which is the main reason silicon hasn't been deemed an essential element that must be included in hydroponics base nutrients formulas.

But evidence shows that without feeding added silicon to your crops, you're missing out on healthier, stonier, more productive plants.
Potassium Silicate Helps Marijuana Plants Produce & Support Bigger Buds

When your medical marijuana plants intake silicon as potassium silicate, they build it into their cell walls. Marijuana plant tissue samples show that silicon-enhanced cell walls are sturdier and more resilient than cell walls in silicon-deprived crops.

Silicon-enriched cell walls provide structural support for your plants so they have sturdier stalks and stems that support larger buds.

You know how much damage that sucking/biting insects such as mites, thrips, aphids, and other insect attackers can do to your marijuana plants.

Silicon-enriched cell walls make it harder for predatory insects to feed off your marijuana plants. Silicon-enriched cell walls also armor your plants internally and externally against damage from heat, intense light, cold, drought and humidity.

Silicon (as potassium silicate) is absorbed via roots and transferred from cell to cell inside the plant, where it becomes a powerful potentiator of your marijuana's metabolic processes, acting as a balancer and facilitator that increases uptake of other nutrients, fuels photosynthesis, and filters pollutants such as salts and heavy metals.

Potassium silicate also reduces oxidative stress (it's an antioxidant).

When your marijuana plants are silicon-enriched, they're better able to resist molds, mildews (such as the dreaded powdery mildew) and other pathogens that cost growers millions in losses every year.

Marijuana plants fed silicon as potassium silicate have healthier, denser roots that uptake nutrients, oxygen and moisture faster, and they're more resistant to root diseases.

For you as a marijuana grower, the important news is that potassium silicate increases the formation, sturdiness, size and resin content of THC glands.

Your resin glands are the primary reservoirs of THC in your plants, but they're extremely vulnerable to rupture and other deterioration caused by heat, drought, predators, intense light, humidity, molds, mildews, nutrients problems, and rough handling.

Added silicon boosts the size, hardiness and resilience of your buds and resin glands, giving you heavier, more potent buds that are better able to resist forces that reduce crop quality and weight after harvest.

When you enrich your medical marijuana plants with potassium silicate, you extend the shelf life of their resin glands and THC.

This means your crops retain more of their potency, taste and aroma for longer periods of time. Your crops are more valuable to you and others who depend on your buds.
Silicon as Silicate: Get The Right Solution for Your Marijuana Crops

Now that you've seen how adding silicon to your marijuana feed program is a proven way to get healthier plants and more-valuable buds, you're surely wondering what's the best way to get silicon into your plants.

Marijuana plant scientists determined that potassium silicate is the preferred form of silicon for marijuana plants. Using potassium silicate has the added benefit of providing potassium to your crops— as you're aware, potassium is a marijuana bud booster.

Without getting into too much chemistry, let's understand that other forms of agricultural silicon, such as sodium silicate and lithium silicate, cause problems for your plants.

Lithium silicate causes toxicity. Sodium silicate has a big problem: sodium. In fact, excess sodium is already a big problem for marijuana plants growing in soil or soilless hydroponics systems.

Marijuana scientists describe this as "plant salt stress," and they point out that it slows marijuana growth, reduces yield, and can even kill your plants.

Salt stress is a problem indoors and outdoors. Indeed, one of the main harms of industrial agriculture fertilizers, and the use of desalinated water, is that it spreads excess salts that create soil toxicity.

Remember that silicon must be provided in amounts appropriate for your plants, and in the right form. As with other nutrient elements you feed your plants, an excess or deficiency of silicon can cause crop problems.

So it's not enough to just throw silicates into your feed program...you must send in the right amount of potassium silicate, and it's best if the potassium silicate is provided to you in a properly-manufactured liquid solution.

As a hydroponics marijuana grower, you only have a handful of product choices when you're trying to add silicon to your medical marijuana plants.

One product is Botanicare's Silica Blast, which contains sodium silicate, potash and potassium silicate.

You already know why any product with sodium silicate is not good for your medical marijuana plants— too much salt.

Dyna Gro makes a "Pro-TeKt" product that contains potassium silicate; Dutch Master and Grotek also make silicate products.

I called Botanicare, Dyna Gro, Dutch Master and Grotek to ask how their products work for marijuana, but they refused to talk about marijuana growing.
Grow Tips for Hydroponics Marijuana & Potassium Silicate

When I reached a technical advisor at Advanced Nutrients, I learned more about their potassium silicate product called Rhino Skin.

I had already learned potassium silicate is best delivered as part of a liquid solution rather than a dry powder or granule.

The tech advisor noted that hydroponics marijuana growers gotta be careful about using most potassium silicate products, because potassium silicate can play havoc with pH and nutrients absorption, and because too much or too little potassium silicate can be worse than adding none at all.

Apparently, Rhino Skin is an upgraded version of a previous hydroponics product, Barricade, that works with the bloom phase nutrients system based on base nutrients that guarantee optimized pH and maximum nutrients absorption for your plants.

I talked to marijuana grow guru GrowDaddy (50+ years of marijuana growing experience) about potassium silicate.

He had over the years tried all the potassium silicate formulas on the market, and decided that his best bet was to use Rhino Skin as a root feed and as a foliar spray.

GrowDaddy uses potassium silicate for soil and soilless grows beginning in mid-veg phase and continuing through bloom phase, especially for plants like Kush that grow best with a heavy dose of hydroponics nutrients, and any plants known to produce higher than average THC gland percentages.

As a root feed, I use potassium silicate per the manufacturer's directions. As a foliar spray I use zero ppm reverse osmosis water, half-strength Wet Betty organic surfactant, and one eighth to one quarter strength Rhino Skin.

I adjust the solution to 5.7 pH. When I'm finished mixing, the foliar spray averages between 110-170 ppm.

I use this spray, sometimes in combination with other supplements during the latter two thirds of my grow phase and the first two weeks of my bloom phase.

Foliar spraying potassium silicate is a preventive against powdery mildew, mites, thrips, aphids, heat, gray mold and other stress that attacks your plants from the outside.

It also transfers potassium silicate into your medical marijuana plants at a crucial time...when they're forming buds and resin glands.

This strengthens your glands, increases the density and development potential of your bud structure, and gives you more THC.

Now you've seen how potassium silicate makes your medical marijuana plants safer, stronger, healthier, faster-growing, and heavier-yielding, I'm sure you'll get hold of hydroponics potassium silicate and enjoy the increased THC benefits today


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edit to add:

The Potassium Silicate I used was made by CannaMax was directed to be used @ 1/4 ml per liter , 1 ml per us gallon then PH adjusted

Love this post. Very informative. I just was reading up on this to strengthen the stems but I see it does much more. I plan on getting General Hydroponics "Armor Si"


Also on the tube at NoobGrow
 
re: 3 x Indica - LED & HPS

The 500ml bottle of CannaMax Silicate I have cost $12 and needs to be PH'ed , I think they all need to have the PH adjusted.

If you have a PH meter you'll need it if you don't you'll want to pick one up !
 
A Issue with the silicate

A reaction between the Potassium Silicate and the minerals in the water caused a gel fallout to occur that resembles a snow storm.

So it was time to start again , I dumped it on the flower garden and made up a new barrel to aerate & PH.

This time I mixed it without the p silicate , I am thinking it should be applied from its own jug of unfortified water , as the p silicate will bind / gel with the calcium iron /magnesium and other minerals in the water.

The clincher the label says to PH the water to 6.5 after dilution.

Test to come I will PH a gallon of the P Silicate water to 6.5 and check for the gel

I will post the results within the next few days


also this sheet needs to be handled with care its corrosive.
 
6 weeks tomorrow

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The cheese smelling plant is in the first photo it is about a week ahead in the Bud development / size , the leds light makes it hard to see the bud but the plant is evenly covered in crystal buds.

The cheese smelling plant is sweetening up and the bubblegum smelling plant now smells strongly like Mango.
 
Thanks Snidrajsed nice to see yeah, illuminating she is to the tune of 1300 watts with more to come !

News Flash

My issue

The plants stopped transpiring water as noted by stupid low 28% humidity when normally is stayed between 40 - 55. and the leaves began to pale.

As I didn't overfeed the girls it must be a issue with PH


Yesterday evening , I added a full dose of PH perfect @ 4ml a liter to 12 liters per plant of micro / bloom / grow to adjust the soils PH and as a bonus feeding


I noticed AN will keep the soil's ph in check for an easy two weeks , having a constantly moist pot enhances the effect.


Result

I was correct 10 hrs after the treatment the humidity bounced up to 40% @ 85 degrees , overnight it was 60% @ 67*F


In short the non transpiring plant problem is solved with a PH adjustment

Tonight @ 85*F the humidity is 50% high for my garden at that temp *indicating all is well*

- if you ever have this issue I think you will find the PH is out of the tolerable range , happy growing ! -

Have you ever noticed anything of note on either too low or too high humidity?
I seem to stay on the more dry side of things for whatever reason. Just wondering if you have ever seen any "NOTICEABLE" impact either way.
 
It could be your Climate / house is dryer then mine, without plants my house stays at 50% humidity

When i have a crop growing I use a dehumidifier in the house to maintain 50% humidity.

In the tent I notice changes in humidity within minutes of it happening , a sudden drop is a indication something has gone awry.

the tent went from 45% to 28% humidity @ 85*some days after I treated them with guano etc.

The sudden change in humidity may be the first sign of trouble , its certainly an early one. The plants recovered fast , within hours of treatment as indicated by the rise in the humidity/ transpiration rate.

Since the treatment I have been watering with PH 5.8 water with good results.
 
I vent the tent with a fan set to a low 90cfm to maintain the temperature between 85* and 90* with 1300w in lights.

The high temps help speed growth when using leds and works well with the extra Co2 the plants receive from me being in the house near 24-7

Why the high temps ?

LED's work best above 85*

HPS work best above 85* if you add Co2

I exhale Co2 in the house nearly all day making the requirements needed for the high temps and fast growth.

I am part of the growth chain , I think that's pretty damn cool , regardless its free Co2 that makes the climate the plants live in nearly as high as the prehistoric Co2 levels. Stupid high.
 
thanks greeners , appreciate the consideration , if these girls fail or under produce I go without weed , not a nice prospect especially after last years sufferings.

My prior experience with fucking up must have kicked in when I solved it , or it was something I had recently read as its been a long time since I grown..

I am stoked they bounced back and kept growing , for a minute I was thinking my chances of a good harvest were over , frightening that was.
 
Bug zapper UVB output measured

Today's evening sun's uvb output measured 67 mw/m2

Wiki has the Sun's uvb output measured @ 74mw/m2

It has a 10 inch dual tube 85va draw florescent type bulb

The UVB strength reached over 580mw/m2 but that photo was under exposed.


This is more then 7x stronger then the Sun's 74mw / m2 uvb output

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Display reads 545.3 mw/m2

I am going to remove the cage and hang it in the tent in between the two budding plants


Flying insects will not last long with this sucker fired up , I will keep the zapper active.

Warning these lights cause eye damage , I will switch it off before entering the tent.
It will prevent accidental zapping at the same time.

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I'm using a Neulog WIFI logger with the uvb sensor plugged in , there are actually 50 different scientific / biology sensors for it.

I have the EC meter probe / sensor , two PH probe/ sensors and a humidity logger to use with it and a few other unrelated sensors.


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I have just finished a 2 day light test with the plants up nice and close to the 600 CoolTube


I normally kept the plants at least three inches further away

CoolTube_007.JPG

Left plant

A fan was gently blowing air over the leaves / plants

Right plant
CoolTube_005.JPG


They made it threw two 12.5 hr days I think it was hard on the closest leaves so today I moved them 2 inches back , out of kindness.
 
I'm using a Neulog WIFI logger with the uvb sensor plugged in , there are actually 50 different scientific / biology sensors for it.

I have the EC meter probe / sensor , two PH probe/ sensors and a humidity logger to use with it and a few other unrelated sensors.


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I have just finished a 2 day light test with the plants up nice and close to the 600 CoolTube


I normally kept the plants at least three inches further away

CoolTube_007.JPG

Left plant

A fan was blowing air over the leaves / plants

Right plant
CoolTube_005.JPG


They made it threw two 12.5 hr days I think it was hard on the closest leaves so today I moved them 2 inches back , out of kindness.

What are you blowing through that cool tube? Cold Air condition air? No was I could get my hps that close without leaving the tent open and air conditioning my studio apt......but even still. Great job.


Also on the tube at NoobGrow
 
The CoolTube air comes just off the floor outside the tent down low where the air stays between 70 & 75*


It gains 20 degrees in temperature from the input to the output where it leaves the room.

Cooled with a 6-inch 12v 27W 175cfm fan powered @10v for about 125cfm of airflow

I vent the tent with the same model fan @ 9v about 90cfm to maintain 85 to 90 degree tent temps

Adding in the 600 CoolTube only added 5* F to the tents temperature with 725w of led power.


The CoolTubes work as intended but the center hot spot is wasteful , I checked with a lux meter other then that I like them.
 
How much of a temp drop (from just the cool tube side of things) do you get in the tent blowing air through the tube?


Also on the tube at NoobGrow
 
I have always used ducts and a fan with it , I deduce if it was not vented the tent temperature would rise 20* higher ,without increases to the tents vent fan speed..

Without the CoolTubes vent I could not maintain the tents humidity where I do now as I would be forced to vent it faster then the humidity could collect ; rise.

I like to keep it at about 45% humidity but more importantly I try to keep the tent 85 to 90* for the Par lighten effect to be maximized.



I have the fans CFM speed tweaked to keep everything in check , if just
 
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