3rd Time's A Charm?

420-magazine-mobile1015329486.jpg


Name that disease for 2000 alex!

Sent from my LGMS428 using 420 Magazine Mobile App
 
420-magazine-mobile142581093.jpg
420-magazine-mobile1773155118.jpg
420-magazine-mobile1117271446.jpg
420-magazine-mobile1659261445.jpg
420-magazine-mobile423034103.jpg





Sent from my GT-P5210 using 420 Magazine Mobile App
You stated T12 bulbs, but I see a Mag and coil ballast running in last 2 pix. Keep your grow room under 80°, photosynthesis will stop over 85°.

Cheers

Sent from my SPH-L720T using 420
 
Great recovery, I'd say that since I see older leafs yellowing and new growth looks good. You are under feeding. If yellowing spreads to upper growth you will have other issues. Add micro nutes for this to correct. Add macro for upper leafs yellowing. Since no claw or twisted leaf mass PH looks good with no signs of over feeding.

Cheers

Sent from my SPH-L720T using 420
 
Keep your grow room under 80°, photosynthesis will stop over 85°.

Never heard of this before. Could you explain better? Outdoor grows exceed 85 in almost every situation and I have seen many indoor grows regularly exceed 85 degrees. My own included.
 
Great recovery, I'd say that since I see older leafs yellowing and new growth looks good. You are under feeding.

The yellowing is only at the bottom

If yellowing spreads to upper growth you will have other issues. Add micro nutes for this to correct. Add macro for upper leafs yellowing.

whats micro and whats macro?

Since no claw or twisted leaf mass PH looks good with no signs of over feeding.

ph of run off is approx 6.8


ive only fed them once and watered 2 times...
 
Macro nutrients are your big 3 NPK. Micros are all the others.

What millertm wrote is a little misleading though. The area of growth effected does not point toward macro or micro nutrients, but rather mobile or immobile nutrients.

Mobile nutrient deficiencies will be seen in older fan leaves, because the plant is taking the stored nutrient in those leaves and mobilizing it to promote new growth.

If you have a deficiency in new growth, then it points to an immobile nutrient, as the plant cannot pull this resource in from another part of the plant, so it's new growth gets effected by the deficiency.

When I get on the computer I will post a chart that shows which nutrients are mobile and immobile and has pictorials of each common deficiency.


:tokin:
 
Yes mobile and non mobile, if you have a good grow nute it's taken care off. Cal Mg solutions also are used on stressed plants but it will raise PH.

Cheers

Sent from my SPH-L720T using 420
 
Sorry, trying to help.

Calcium hydroxide - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

But it seems this is quite basic with acid Pka of 12. Higher number weaker acid. Pkb of 2 is strong base. Not sure how it dropped your PH, some store bought Cal Mg solutions could be buffered. Epson salt is very alkaline too. I've seen it used at 1 TSP gal and it took PH 7 water over 8.5.

Cheers

Sent from my SPH-L720T using 420
 
Sorry, trying to help.

Calcium hydroxide - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

But it seems this is quite basic with acid Pka of 12. Higher number weaker acid. Pkb of 2 is strong base. Not sure how it dropped your PH, some store bought Cal Mg solutions could be buffered. Epson salt is very alkaline too. I've seen it used at 1 TSP gal and it took PH 7 water over 8.5.

Cheers

Sent from my SPH-L720T using 420

As an example Dolomite is essentially CalMag. I can show you a video if needed. My tap water comes out at about 7.8-8 add 1/4 cup of Dolomite and the pH drops to about 7.3
 
Millertm is talking about Calcium Hydroxide and Growlow is talking about Calcium Carbonate ?

Sent from my SM-G355M using 420

I've not heard of any CalMag being made of Calcium Hydroxide. Then again I haven't messed around with a lot of bottled CalMAg's. The only Calcium Magnesium supplement I have used besides raw materials like Dolomite Lime is GeneralOrganics Calmag+ and that is also made of Calcium Carbonate, Magnesium Carbonate and a lil Iron.I am aware that Calcium Carbonate can neutralize acidic rich soils. Magnesium Carbonate has the same affect but is weaker in nature. Which would generally support what Millertm says. All I'm aware of is how it reacts in powdered form. When I used the liquid form it was in DWC and I'd never grown with bottled nutes so from memory the bottled stuff also slightly dropped the pH but increased the PPM.
 
Dolomite Lime is a mix of calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate. Both are slow acting and therefore considered safe for garden applications.

Calcium Hydroxide is also known as hydrated lime or caustic lime. It is very fast acting and considered to be moderately dangerous to use. It can seriously burn you and your plants.

I have not heard of Calcium Hydroxide ever being used outside of an industrial or cleaning application and I would never use it as a soil amendment.


:tokin:
 
It is also important to note that not all "mobile" nutrients are created equal. Some are much more mobile than others (semi-mobile?). Also, while something like calcium is mobile, if the soil has lots of potassium, it will lower the uptake of calcium and magnesium. The potassium ions are more available to the plant.

I"m not great at a lot of nute diagnostics. The yellow margins look to me like they could be any of these: potassium, calcium or magnesium (or a combo). I'd hit it with some Cal-Mag or CaliMagic.
 
Back
Top Bottom