Burning RSO: What causes the sludge that can appear and how to stop it

Bodywork38

420 Member
Hi everyone!

I make RSO from hemp and use 10 pounds of bud with 10 and half gallons of 195 proof ethanol. I reclaim using a 10gal copper still, using a rice cooker to quickly cook of the rest of the wash.(I reclaim 8 1/2 gallons back and am left with a half gallon of thick wash. I want to try getting 9gal back but not sure at what point it will thicken too much and that would be a nightmare to clean.) I purge and decarb using an induction hot plate in an oil bath.

My question is this: Why does sludge form? For instance, I left a batch too long in the rice cooker one time and it burnt. Why does this happen? IF the rice cooker can't exceed the 180F mark that ethanol burns at and when it switched to it's warm setting, which is lower than what is needed for decarb, why did it produce the burnt sludge?

Also, my last batch I babysat the rice cooker and that was fine. When I put it in the oil bath, which I decarb at 245-250F, it still had some sludge. Do I just need to be stirring it or get an automatic stirrer? Is it chlorophyl that is burning first and settling at the bottom? Is the bottom of my glass container that holds the RSO during decarb have the most surface area and if left still too long burns it? Would love for someone to get real nerdy here. Thank you all so much!
 
:ciao: :welcome: to :420:

I don't have an answer to your question but I just wanted you to know there is a forum section just for cannabis oils here, I am not sure if you would get a faster response here or searching through it
 
Hi everyone!

I make RSO from hemp and use 10 pounds of bud with 10 and half gallons of 195 proof ethanol. I reclaim using a 10gal copper still, using a rice cooker to quickly cook of the rest of the wash.(I reclaim 8 1/2 gallons back and am left with a half gallon of thick wash. I want to try getting 9gal back but not sure at what point it will thicken too much and that would be a nightmare to clean.) I purge and decarb using an induction hot plate in an oil bath.

My question is this: Why does sludge form? For instance, I left a batch too long in the rice cooker one time and it burnt. Why does this happen? IF the rice cooker can't exceed the 180F mark that ethanol burns at and when it switched to it's warm setting, which is lower than what is needed for decarb, why did it produce the burnt sludge?

Also, my last batch I babysat the rice cooker and that was fine. When I put it in the oil bath, which I decarb at 245-250F, it still had some sludge. Do I just need to be stirring it or get an automatic stirrer? Is it chlorophyl that is burning first and settling at the bottom? Is the bottom of my glass container that holds the RSO during decarb have the most surface area and if left still too long burns it? Would love for someone to get real nerdy here. Thank you all so much!

are you forgetting to add a touch of h2o ? But I seriously have no idea ?
namaste
 
to be clear , I have actual zero idea. I just know when I’m cooking , and that happens , or decarbing resin , a splash or two of water usually helps .
its Sunday Funday so I’m pretty lit
hopefully someone that has actually done it will chime in :)
namaste :green_heart::Namaste:
 
Well I used to make RSO way back with ISO and tried recently with Grain Alc and I did not like anything about it.... ISO seems so much cleaner (visually through my ghetto process), I mean for my ISO to have burned it would have totally dried up then left to cook to do that....
 
using a rice cooker is too old now , you can salvage your alcohol if you use a distiller , add oil leave it on , go away come back your oils , butters are ready :) and your pure alcohol is back sitting waiting for next run :ganjamon:
I have a Flousher distiller but I don’t know how to use it for this.
 
I have a Flousher distiller but I don’t know how to use it for this.
You can setup a removeable container inside, keep temps below 190 f proceed till alcohol slows,
remove container with RSO or just pour off before it gets to thick

Keeping it from burning has to do with clarity. You want to do a quick wash in freezing temps. & double strain twice in the cold, to remove plant waxes & lipides. Soaking for long periods will make green oil (chlorophyl)
 
You can setup a removeable container inside, keep temps below 190 f proceed till alcohol slows,
remove container with RSO or just pour off before it gets to thick

Keeping it from burning has to do with clarity. You want to do a quick wash in freezing temps. & double strain twice in the cold, to remove plant waxes & lipides. Soaking for long periods will make green oil (chlorophyl)
I agree totally, that may not get all particle matter but will get much of it.
Just completed a 250 gram wash. I left the bottles of 190 proof in the freezer for 48 hrs prior to pouring slowly over the twin filters.
That is another point, you will see the sediment in the bottom of the bottles after freezing, so pour from the bottle very slowly an avoid getting sediment into the distiller.
 
I agree totally, that may not get all particle matter but will get much of it.
Just completed a 250 gram wash. I left the bottles of 190 proof in the freezer for 48 hrs prior to pouring slowly over the twin filters.
That is another point, you will see the sediment in the bottom of the bottles after freezing, so pour from the bottle very slowly an avoid getting sediment into the distiller.
I also do my filtering in the freezing temps. The benefits of living in the great white north.
It's impossible to get a normal freezer down to -40
 
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