Fanleaf's Huge 42 COB Array Build Plus Other Builds

I'm trying to keep this thread going in the way that fanlead intended it. The intention was efficiency. But after reading all of these pages, about three times now, it has lost track here and there. At the same time, we have also gained a lot of information. The goal was efficiency. If fanleaf's goal was to pull heat watts out of the equation and get as many photons to cut down on excess electrical usage, that is the point. But say you live in Alaska, those heat watts that are wasted are not wasted any more because your not putting towards a heater to make your room temp right. It's so hard to talk about efficiancy, because it is on a person to person basis. I'm pretty sure it was fanleaf that was stoked to rip out his air conditioner because of the cobs. So if I sound like a jerk to people, please do not take me out of context. Other than that, let's see if my internet lasts longer than half an hour today.

Nice graph!

CRI is for people, not plants. For our purposes 80 CRI is usually best, for exactly the reason you gave. We like the white diodes because they're extremely efficient, not because they have a perfect spectrum. We don't want to tilt the spectrum by weakening the output - that makes no sense at all, especially when the entire point of using white LEDs is their efficiency. :laugh:

:yahoo:

I have to say that is a yes and no. 60% us, 40 plants. Don't take me to town on this, I'm just trying to answer the guys original question about Cri's and explain it as best I can. I'm no expert. I was out of the loop for a year and a half, and only been studying this for the last six months. For fifteen years before that, it was cuts/seeds under flourescent, hps all the way..so... Oh, I forgot. I got that graph from one of growmau5's videos with greengene talking about the same thing as we are. It's off the McCree spectrum but more focused on what a marijuana plant wants instead of all species of plants. It was playing in the background heard that.. rewind.. grab photo. K. So when our chips are made, from what I understand, is they are all pretty much in the blues. They have to add filters on top of the chips to cancel out the blues to only get more red's. Why everyone calls them blurples without even knowing why. As a kid. You add more yellow "filter" to our blue to get green. Why most chips are that we want in our blue spectrums are 70 CRI. Don't need as many filters. Here is where it gets tricky. Now, I need a new paragraph.

Ok, this is where I wanted to give graytail some shit and not at the same time cuz I love the guy and I do not know if he understood what I was saying or if he was just giving me shit. Anyways Gray, If I can call you that, with my mumbling internet rant, I was trying to jumble it all together. I was trying to point out efficacy and I do not know if you thought I meant efficiency even though they are both related. Let me know if I mess this one up. Since the point was trying to explain to the James Bond of marijuana what CRI is about... Look at this chart.

These are Vero 29's. I'll explain why I'm not going cree on this later.

We got our 3000k's on the left. One 80, one 90. Normal drive current that this chip would be happy at. 2100Ma or 2.1 amps. Now are the numbers. Flux.. Basically how much light is coming out in pure power to your plants IN the spectrum you want. That is where the CRI comes in. The "filter" has now been doubled to block out more blue to give you more Red. Look at the Flux difference, then go to the right and this is where the rat in the cage starts rumbling.

DS33_Vero_29_Array_Data_Sheet_Rev_L_20160606.jpg
 
Now we go to the efficiency.

On the far right we have 129 for the 80cri 3000. 103 for 90. No big deal. I just lost 26 lumens per watt to get that extra 730nm spectrum. Lumens? It's relative. Here the rats go. That's 26 lumens per wattt in the 10's of thousands that I just lost in per light going to a light spectrum that I thought I needed. The light output from the 80 is so much more powerful that those 730's blah that I was bitching about are made up in those 26. It gets worse when you start from the blue. Blue is the beginning like I was somehow trying to explain. BOTTOM RIGHT NUMBER IS... 116. As you start at the 5000k, we go up to 80cri. Seven lumens per watt. goes up to sixteen. If you added up all of those numbers on how many lumens you started from just that 5k... I'm almost thinking I want 56 Bxrco-50c10k0-24's in a 2x4 grow tent running at like 10 watts. Oh. the wiring...

K. I'm babbling. See what mathmatics does without marijuana... It confuses you.
 
I don't think I'll buy anymore cobs either. I just talked to gromau5 on the phone, I told him my room size, 5x6, he calculated around 550 ppfd for 30sq ft. That's pretty high numbers for 6 little boards for big space. The boards are most efficient lights out at the moment. They blow the Cree and veros out of the water

Like I keep saying. I just want to understand how it is efficient? I'm curious with my internet. What is the heat coming off the boards comparable too in your opinion.
 
I'm not sure yet, I let the whites run for an hour, just barely warm to the touch. At 1050ma should be about same or less. I'll have definite answer this time next week.

But from actual sphere test they beat out everything on the market, in the 60's efficiency wise, the 3590's just hit 60%. But I'm sure(or hope) Cree comes out with something new, the 3590's are kind of old, been out a while. But samsung has an even better version about to hit market this fall-winter. Should be lots of new things popping up within the next year
 
Flux.. Basically how much light is coming out in pure power to your plants IN the spectrum you want.

Would that be luminous flux or radiant flux? I'm strongly suspecting luminous flux, because the SI of luminous flux is the lumen (and those columns show "(lm)"). EDIT: And if it is luminous flux, that's "human-eye weighted."
 
I'm not sure yet, I let the whites run for an hour, just barely warm to the touch. At 1050ma should be about same or less. I'll have definite answer this time next week.

But from actual sphere test they beat out everything on the market, in the 60's efficiency wise, the 3590's just hit 60%. But I'm sure(or hope) Cree comes out with something new, the 3590's are kind of old, been out a while. But samsung has an even better version about to hit market this fall-winter. Should be lots of new things popping up within the next year

Dude. Seriously. You are like the Neil Armstrong here. I see how much you have invested. I know Cree's are old. And I totally agree with you with possibly samsung. I'm in. The only reason I'm babbling about it is to see if you could help me on how much heat comes off of your boards compared to your cree's. Are your running CO2 in enclosed environment since you have the ppm's, and what effect does that have on your intake and outake of air. Sorry for being a douche. I just do not know when this system is going to run right. Internet I mean.
 
No problem, I just talked to growmau5, they shipped my controllers today. So I should have tomorrow or Monday. I'll have light fully running by next weekend.

What little bit I did run them, the heat is less than my cobs. But I'll be able to give better answer next week. Shiggityflip is running a different board but with same samsungs. He has zero heat issues. Some of these boards don't even need a heatsink if running low enough (under 40 watts).

I'm very happy with my cobs, they done great this grow. Looks better than my hps runs. Big fat colas, but the bud is denser with more triches than hps. I'm using vero, but I made exact replica with Cree for my dad(81 year old farmer lol), he's killing it. I know Cree is more efficient by little, but results are pretty similar. The veros do put little more heat off than the Cree, but I haven't had any issues. Both great chips
 
I know Cree is more efficient by little, but results are pretty similar. The veros do put little more heat off than the Cree, but I haven't had any issues. Both great chips

The Vero items are generally cheaper, aren't they?
 
Yea, they are around $15 cheaper. Vero-$20-25 and the Cree are $35-40 for the 36v chips.

Oh. I was (for some reason) thinking this stuff was, IDK, significantly more cheaper. But the difference in cost between 10 of one or 10 of the other is $150. Which, I know, is not an insignificant amount - when considered merely as a number. But that's about half the cost of ONE lid around here, so I guess... My having thought these things are expensive is sort of like someone thinking a cannabis seed is expensive just because the seller wants a couple hundred dollars for ten of them :rolleyes3 . Maybe expensive if you're broke and want some, lol... But a bargain at harvest time ;) .
 
Oh. I was (for some reason) thinking this stuff was, IDK, significantly more cheaper. But the difference in cost between 10 of one or 10 of the other is $150. Which, I know, is not an insignificant amount - when considered merely as a number. But that's about half the cost of ONE lid around here, so I guess... My having thought these things are expensive is sort of like someone thinking a cannabis seed is expensive just because the seller wants a couple hundred dollars for ten of them :rolleyes3 . Maybe expensive if you're broke and want some, lol... But a bargain at harvest time ;) .

K. I just sold the house so I have a two weeks. Internet is finally freaking on. Ugh... I'm only going to be ordering test parts until I finally get moved. The difference on on that fifteen buck doesn't matter like how I need to ask Buck which vero's I want for my 2x4 veg. I was only able to check out the 5000k''s and wanted a second opinion. If it was 30 vero's or cree's and looking at a long term power bill, that's where it would get tricky. Which is another question I need to ask you. Do not know if I got this out there. Can you get me temps off your boards on the fins and compare them to you dad's setup. Same thing pins? I read your post before about iyour dad's setup. That's why I want to compare the temps. Separate area's.
 
Alright guys/gals have done tons of reading on Cob/leds/Grow journals since I 1st joined this site. I'm more of a lurker and read than post which i know is not very helpful but to be honest I'm currently on my very 1st grow I have a Cheap LED full spectrum light from amazon(lol) it says it comparable to a 600watt hps but I doubt that being under $200. Also a t5 thAt my buddy is letting me use till I pay him off wants $100 for it. I will mostly buy this off of him and convert it to a cob probably a
Samsung 90cri @4000k the product I am looking for is this. SPHWH1L5N407XET5A1
High Power Samsung LED │LED Components & Engines, Smart Lighting Solutions

I would love to run this
SPHWHAHDNK28YZT3D2 Samsung as well
Samsung LED │LED Components & Engines, Smart Lighting Solutionsl
Or something in at ballpark.

Are these even good lights for one thing?
I think I am reviewing the data sheets correct for them but I am so new to this.

My biggest issue with this whole diy cob/led conversions is what would I need to power them?
The room size for the next grow will be 80inches L by 60inches W
So how many of each would I need to cover this area and have a decent grow
Like I have said since I have joined that all I have done is reading the forums really enjoyable information I have taken a lot of information and I am still processing it. Quite a lot of terminology to take in with my short time being a member

I am in my 1st grow and wow I have learned a lot for this site and some friends in irl. I have a kosher tangerine and a Girl Scout cookies.
Kosher tangerine is pretty tall compared to my gsc
The the branches itself are weak I cannot do much lst without risking losing a branch and this is including early veg but everything else looks mighty healthy my gsc got sister mites at one point and the kosher was right next to it touching the gsc didn't even get one mite I still sprayed it to be safe. Now my gsc on the other hand loves the lst. It's a short busy beast imo(lol) I have quite a few tops on it did not too but I did pull the top down pretty much sideways and man she loved it tops for days. Currently I'm one week into flower just got my diy room pretty much setup for it

This is my 1st post and it is well over due. This is a great community and that's why I can literally spend 5-6 hours of read the forums kinda just start spacing out and don't stop like this morning I'm going on to my 4th hour. Thank you all for letting me be a part of this community!!!
 
Hello King Jones - sorry no one answered you, but Fanleaf disappeared on us so the thread is pretty dead. :cheesygrinsmiley:

But I recently bought a bunch of boards made with mid-range Samsung LM561c diodes, and this thread is as good a place as any to keep the technology going. I think I'll point people here to talk about it. :hmmmm:

I took a look at the Samsung COBs and didn't look very deeply into it, but I'm unfamiliar with Samsung as a COB manufacturer. I did my research on Bridgelux, Cree and Citizen, who seem to be the most efficient on the market - maybe Samsung is a new entry - I know their 561s are amazing.

Powering them is simpler than it looks, but you have to do some math. First, you have to decide how many watts you want for each COB. Let's pick 50 watts. Then, how many volts do the COBs use? Some are 32 volts, some are 36 volts, some are 54 volts. Volts x Amps = Watts. If the COB is 36 volts and you want 50 watts, then you need about 1400 milliamps. That's about 50 watts. So you'd want a driver that delivers at least 36 volts at 1400ma. You can run several COBs in a series, which increases the needed voltage. If you want 4 COBs you'd need a driver that delivers at least 144 volts at 1400ma.

Ask any question you have, but also check out the first pages of this journal, too.

:Namaste:
 
Hello King Jones - sorry no one answered you, but Fanleaf disappeared on us so the thread is pretty dead.

Wherever he's gotten to, I hope it's by choice, and that he's well/safe. I just checked and the option of sending him a PM still exists, so he wasn't banned from the forum. He just does not appear to have logged in since the evening of September 27.

Come back, fanleaf.
 
It's good to know he's still checking in. :cheesygrinsmiley:

Maybe we'll get some more people to start the talk again. The new stuff seems to be the Samsung mid-power LEDs. They can be mounted on panels, strips, any shape, easy to use. And the Lumen/Watt numbers beat all the COB manufacturers, with a new more efficient series soon to be announced.

Aaand, they're virtual replacements for COBs, using the same Mean Well CC/CV drivers. :slide:
 
Hello King Jones - sorry no one answered you, but Fanleaf disappeared on us so the thread is pretty dead. :cheesygrinsmiley:

But I recently bought a bunch of boards made with mid-range Samsung LK651c diodes, and this thread is as good a place as any to keep the technology going. I think I'll point people here to talk about it. :hmmmm:

I took a look at the Samsung COBs and didn't look very deeply into it, but I'm unfamiliar with Samsung as a COB manufacturer. I did my research on Bridgelux, Cree and Citizen, who seem to be the most efficient on the market - maybe Samsung is a new entry - I know their 561s are amazing.

Powering them is simpler than it looks, but you have to do some math. First, you have to decide how many watts you want for each COB. Let's pick 50 watts. Then, how many volts do the COBs use? Some are 32 volts, some are 36 volts, some are 54 volts. Volts x Amps = Watts. If the COB is 36 volts and you want 50 watts, then you need about 1400 milliamps. That's about 50 watts. So you'd want a driver that delivers at least 36 volts at 1400ma. You can run several COBs in a series, which increases the needed voltage. If you want 4 COBs you'd need a driver that delivers at least 144 volts at 1400ma.

Ask any question you have, but also check out the first pages of this journal, too.

:Namaste:

Thank you for the post and breakdown it starts to make more sense after reading it a few times. This post is a very good ready I'm like almost a 100 pages in

I did find the Samsung cob I want to run it hits every spot perfect or darn near it's their high cri cob d series 2

They are can cost a lot most sites sell this on in a pack of 160 and I only need about 12 max want some extras just in case but not 148 extra
 
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