Grow help and advice please
- Thread starter minimee1108
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Bounce3d
Well-Known Member
just my 2 cents
the girls look good
the yellowing of the lowers i would say is because those leaves are'nt getting much light but that is'nt bad.
would like for others to jump in on the purple stems, i would also like to know
the girls look good
the yellowing of the lowers i would say is because those leaves are'nt getting much light but that is'nt bad.
would like for others to jump in on the purple stems, i would also like to know
Emeraldo
Well-Known Member
I agree that the girls look happy. Good job!
The yellowing of the lowest leaves is pretty normal, the cotyldons of course will die soonest of all, but even the leaves at the first node are dispensible and your plant takes their nitrogen elsewhere.
As for the tips of leaves turning white, it can be several things. I know from many grows that too much nitrogen can cause that, so maybe you are feeding too enthusiastically. But it can also be lightburn.
Purple stems is often seen. It is not a cause for concern usually. It is genetic and in some strains appears as the plant matures and goes into flower.
The yellowing of the lowest leaves is pretty normal, the cotyldons of course will die soonest of all, but even the leaves at the first node are dispensible and your plant takes their nitrogen elsewhere.
As for the tips of leaves turning white, it can be several things. I know from many grows that too much nitrogen can cause that, so maybe you are feeding too enthusiastically. But it can also be lightburn.
Purple stems is often seen. It is not a cause for concern usually. It is genetic and in some strains appears as the plant matures and goes into flower.
Purple stems is usually an indication of a lack of P
Adding CaMg to every watering will help the plant take up more of the P + K that is already present
Don't know whether you are doing LST or whatever, but I'd top her soon as poss before she gets too leggy
How far away/Wattage of your light source?
Adding CaMg to every watering will help the plant take up more of the P + K that is already present
Don't know whether you are doing LST or whatever, but I'd top her soon as poss before she gets too leggy
How far away/Wattage of your light source?
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minimee1108
420 Member
2 1/2 feet away
If your lamp is dimmable, move it closer (18" - 20") and dim it a bit, that will provide a better canopy of light whilst maintaining an equivalent intensity of light
Sueet
Well-Known Member
Are you pHing your tap water?
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- #8
minimee1108
420 Member
No, but it got me through the seedling stage
Sueet
Well-Known Member
Well yea, but the seedling has its' own onboard nutrients for the first bit.
Emeraldo
Well-Known Member
I don't pH the water, but many here do. I use a cheap mineral water with a pH of usually right around 7. If you are using bottled synthetic or chemical nutes, you really do have to pay attention to the pH and EC of your solutions. For me, that is unnecessary because the organic nutrition is mixed into the soil before and during the grow, and the plants take what they need. If there is a deficiency, I do a top dressing. I do pH the soil, but many here do not. Good luck
marcus611a
Well-Known Member
pH should be 6.3 in soil
marcus611a
Well-Known Member
pH 6.3 is what u need for your water
Emeraldo
Well-Known Member
It's comfortable to make such generalizations, in my opinion, but not helpful. 6.3 in water could be low, depending on your situation, for example if the soil was too low. 6.3 could even be way too high, depending on the strain if it needs a lower pH. Imho, it is easier to find out the range of your soil pH and then just give water. My soil is at 6.5 and I give water without taking the pH but I know it is around 7. Most important, the soil pH has to be right for the strain.
Sueet
Well-Known Member
Well, the plant is in FFOF which is a bag soil that is properly set for cannabis, and therefore for this instance, it isn't a generalization, it is what this person needs to use. Unless he/she is doing something special in which case they would probably know what they were doing.
The plant is consuming its' own leaves because it can't get what it needs in the soil, and if the FFOF is new, the nutrients are there, so that brings us to pH. Get the pH in the right range (6.3 in this case) and the plant should be able to access what it needs.
The plant is consuming its' own leaves because it can't get what it needs in the soil, and if the FFOF is new, the nutrients are there, so that brings us to pH. Get the pH in the right range (6.3 in this case) and the plant should be able to access what it needs.
Emeraldo
Well-Known Member
No offense intended @Sueet but when you say water with a pH of 6.3 is correct for cannabis, it is a sweeping generalization. When you say that 6.3 is correct for this case, you assume facts that you have no knowledge of. No need to argue about it, however. Peace
Emeraldo
Well-Known Member
Btw, @Sueet here's an interesting article on substrate pH levels for cannabis which you might find useful. It was published in Cannabis Business Times in 2019. New Research Results: Optimal pH for Cannabis
The tolerable substrate (soil) pH range for cannabis appear to be between pH 5 to 7, with a narrower optimal range being around 5.5 to 6.5, according to NCSU's findings,
The preliminary results of NCSU’s research imply that vegetative stock plants of cannabis have a wide substrate pH range in which the plants will optimally grow. That range appears to be as wide as pH 5.0 to 7.0. Based on experience with other species, a narrower range of 5.5 to 6.5 may be more appropriate to target, as this will allow growers to more easily adjust as pH approaches the ends of the targeted range.
That range can be fine-tuned to an even narrower range of 5.8 to 6.2, thereby avoiding most of the lockout issues we all have to deal with, particularly when using bottled synthetic nute concentrates (which I avoid by using organic nutrient materials with a soil pH of 6.0 to 6.5 and giving plain mineral water @ around pH 7).
Here's another really great article on avoiding lockout: 3 Tips to Avoid Nutrient Lockout in Cannabis
@minimee1108 your plants look good, enjoy your grow!
Emeraldo
The tolerable substrate (soil) pH range for cannabis appear to be between pH 5 to 7, with a narrower optimal range being around 5.5 to 6.5, according to NCSU's findings,
The preliminary results of NCSU’s research imply that vegetative stock plants of cannabis have a wide substrate pH range in which the plants will optimally grow. That range appears to be as wide as pH 5.0 to 7.0. Based on experience with other species, a narrower range of 5.5 to 6.5 may be more appropriate to target, as this will allow growers to more easily adjust as pH approaches the ends of the targeted range.
That range can be fine-tuned to an even narrower range of 5.8 to 6.2, thereby avoiding most of the lockout issues we all have to deal with, particularly when using bottled synthetic nute concentrates (which I avoid by using organic nutrient materials with a soil pH of 6.0 to 6.5 and giving plain mineral water @ around pH 7).
Here's another really great article on avoiding lockout: 3 Tips to Avoid Nutrient Lockout in Cannabis
@minimee1108 your plants look good, enjoy your grow!
Emeraldo
Sueet
Well-Known Member
What happened to no need to argue about it?Btw, @Sueet here's an interesting article on substrate pH levels for cannabis which you might find useful. It was published in Cannabis Business Times in 2019. New Research Results: Optimal pH for Cannabis
The tolerable substrate (soil) pH range for cannabis appear to be between pH 5 to 7, with a narrower optimal range being around 5.5 to 6.5, according to NCSU's findings,
The preliminary results of NCSU’s research imply that vegetative stock plants of cannabis have a wide substrate pH range in which the plants will optimally grow. That range appears to be as wide as pH 5.0 to 7.0. Based on experience with other species, a narrower range of 5.5 to 6.5 may be more appropriate to target, as this will allow growers to more easily adjust as pH approaches the ends of the targeted range.
That range can be fine-tuned to an even narrower range of 5.8 to 6.2, thereby avoiding most of the lockout issues we all have to deal with, particularly when using bottled synthetic nute concentrates (which I avoid by using organic nutrient materials with a soil pH of 6.0 to 6.5 and giving plain mineral water @ around pH 7).
Here's another really great article on avoiding lockout: 3 Tips to Avoid Nutrient Lockout in Cannabis
@minimee1108 your plants look good, enjoy your grow!
Emeraldo
sneekymofo
Well-Known Member
Now now folks lol….
@minimee1108 I don’t grow in soil, so I don’t know if this is as helpful as the above debate, but the grow looks pretty good to me and just so ‘growing pains’ as she’s figuring herself out. Unless it spreads from there I would assume it’s old used parts being relieved of their duties…..hahaha….I said duty
Did that help lighten the mood a bit? Hope everyone is having a wonderful Saturday!!!
@minimee1108 I don’t grow in soil, so I don’t know if this is as helpful as the above debate, but the grow looks pretty good to me and just so ‘growing pains’ as she’s figuring herself out. Unless it spreads from there I would assume it’s old used parts being relieved of their duties…..hahaha….I said duty
Did that help lighten the mood a bit? Hope everyone is having a wonderful Saturday!!!
both of you are actually correct lol.
many bag soils and mixed media are amended with dolomite to stabilize ph and allow for varied water sources.
most are generally one use and done media, some you can fix up and re-use.
edit : best practice is to ph for media type regardless. living soils / organic growing excepted.
