Okay first time harvest for me and just making sure I get it right and I’m sorry for those that are tired of my questions it’s just really questionable rn. I know there is this 2 week window to harvest. Early harvest at beginning and late harvest at end of 2 weeks? I was thinking of harvesting in the middle of that. I am pretty sure it has started but I don’t know at same time so appreciate the help. Posting pictures hopefully they show enough to help
Harvest Window Opening?
- Thread starter CC420710
- Start date
Spend $10 to $20 on a cheap 30x to 50x microscope or other magnification device and use it to examine the trichome heads on the buds (flowers). Harvest when you feel that you've got maximum cloudy trichome heads. If it looks like that means the best thing for you to do is take the tops when they're ready and leave the lowers for a week or even a bit longer, well, you can do that if warranted.
Or save the ten bucks and flip a coin, lol. But the difference between great buds and ones harvested too early - or too late - is generally significantly more than $10 (or $20).
Or save the ten bucks and flip a coin, lol. But the difference between great buds and ones harvested too early - or too late - is generally significantly more than $10 (or $20).
- Thread starter
- #3
Unfortunately for me I’m gonna have to get something bigger than my loupe between my bad eyes and shaky hands I can’t really see so guess I need to order something bigger
I use my camera and then zoom in on the pics on my computer once uploaded, seems to work fairly well (or a lot better than I can see by hand with my loupe and bad eyesight) or does ok most of the time as sometimes it takes a few pics to get one in focus enough to do so.
I was in the same boat a while back. Had a decent loupe with a reasonable field of view, but I got to the point where I could pretty much use the thing to read a book with instead of for the usual tasks. Kind of... Well, I read a lot nearly every day, and have since I was about three years old, so the word "depressing" isn't nearly strong enough. Anyway, I bought a Carson brand 60x-120x handheld 'scope off of that big slow-moving river that used to be in South America but now apparently flows from China 
. If money hadn't been a factor, I'd probably have gotten a better one because using it on part of a plant that's still attached is about as awkward as being at a family reunion and hearing someone say, "Hey, let's play spin the bottle!" probably would be, lol, but it cost $12 and has a bright, reasonably white LED in it. A friend was about an hour away from harvesting his plant when I loaned the thing to him. He ended up waiting eight more days. . . .
. If money hadn't been a factor, I'd probably have gotten a better one because using it on part of a plant that's still attached is about as awkward as being at a family reunion and hearing someone say, "Hey, let's play spin the bottle!" probably would be, lol, but it cost $12 and has a bright, reasonably white LED in it. A friend was about an hour away from harvesting his plant when I loaned the thing to him. He ended up waiting eight more days. . . .- Thread starter
- #6
I have tried but camera just isn’t cutting it and loupe is too small. So debating between a digital one I can hook up to phone or computer or one that clips onto the camera itself. Idk which would be better
- Thread starter
- #7
I was in the same boat a while back. Had a decent loupe with a reasonable field of view, but I got to the point where I could pretty much use the thing to read a book with instead of for the usual tasks. Kind of... Well, I read a lot nearly every day, and have since I was about three years old, so the word "depressing" isn't nearly strong enough. Anyway, I bought a Carson brand 60x-120x handheld 'scope off of that big slow-moving river that used to be in South America but now apparently flows from China
I am looking at two kinds rn. One that hooks up to phone or computer with cord or one that clips directly to phone camera. Any idea about those?
Attachments
Problem I had with a microscope type was like what Tortured was saying, it's a real mottha to try and use it on a living plant (his analogy was better
). So I attempted to use it once and it's collecting dust somewhere now. It just takes some time and you learn other ways to tell also (I go a lot by the pistils, but also I have noticed when they hit the end of their life cycle they quit going thru the water as fast (but I'm in soil) and the leaves start changing colors and dying off like trees in the fall). IMHO the widow isn't quite as narrow as some folks make it out to be, as a handful of days either side of "optimum time" doesn't affect things all that much, but that just one of them in my opinion things . I've harvested part of the plant and also harvested the whole plant and I couldn't really tell any difference between the lower ones I waited a week longer to harvest, same as when I harvested the whole plant really couldn't see much difference there either.
As I have trouble holding the camera steady enough, let alone getting something in focus and steady enough that is magnified even more
Another problem with those electronic gizmos is that you're paying for all that stuff and then there's about a (figurative) nickel left over for the actual optics. So you might end up with a cheap lens that hasn't even been carried past a dictionary containing the words "optical" and "quality," so to speak, has a field of view about one micron wide, might be made out of plastic instead of glass, etc.
Barney86
Well-Known Member
Before parting with cash mate try downloading a 'macro app'for your phone. Even of you cant see it, as long as the pic is steady we should be able to tell you
- Thread starter
- #12
Before parting with cash mate try downloading a 'macro app'for your phone. Even of you cant see it, as long as the pic is steady we should be able to tell you
. I have downloaded so many apps but they just aren’t focused enough and only a couple let me take pictures to save. I took some more pictures with camera zoomed in to see that helps at all if not I will try something else. There was one that lets me record if you are patient enough to get through blurry parts. I will upload the pictures and try the video oneBefore parting with cash mate try downloading a 'macro app'for your phone. Even of you cant see it, as long as the pic is steady we should be able to tell you
Attachments
DaddyKush
Well-Known Member
I've never heard of a "2 week window to harvest " before.
You need two things: the number of days in flowering recommended by the breeder and a jeweller's loup/magnifying glass/something similar with 60x magnification. Just monitor your trichs, most growers chop the plant when they start turning amber.
You need two things: the number of days in flowering recommended by the breeder and a jeweller's loup/magnifying glass/something similar with 60x magnification. Just monitor your trichs, most growers chop the plant when they start turning amber.
Barney86
Well-Known Member
bro, don't take this the wrong way but I'd like to clarify some stuff for you. Firstly, there is indeed a 2 week window when they are ready for harvest.
Depending on the dunt you want,
you harvest at clear trich for a speedy, head high.
Mostly cloudy for a mid wave.
Then mostly amber for a couch lock, heavy body stone.
That process takes about 2 weeks.
The buds are a bawhair away from fully matured at the head high, euphoric phase.
You will lose a little yield but for those seeking it that won't matter.
Sativas pulled at that point can go into the realms of psychedelic!
By the time you get to "mid wave" a week later the buds are fully ripened and won't get any bigger.
If you wait another 5-7 days the trich will turn dark and that's on the tilting point between getting a mong stone and the strength dropping.
It's a risky move but again, those that want that effect will risk it.
Secondly, never go by the breeders recommendations for anything.
It never works out.
You've gotta learn to read the plants for yourself mate.
I've grown loads of autos and they generally take 110-120 days from seed. The longest recommendation was 90 days from the supplier.
Also, which number do you use for the suppliers bloom time?
It says 9 weeks so is that 9 weeks from flip to 12/12?
9 weeks from when it shows sex if it hadn't already ?
Or 9 weeks before it starts throwing pistils out?
To say xxx breeder says it's 63 days bloom is an extremely vague term that could be anywhere between 50 and 75 days roughly depending on which way your looking at it.
Barney86
Well-Known Member
That looks awesome mate!
About 7-10 days to go by my eye.
still clear trich, stil got plenty white pistils. I'd ignore them for 5 days then reassess.
What's your finishing up process if you've got one btw?
Like are you flushing/tapering or feeding full strength.
Do you plan to stress them out for a few days before harvest or anything like that?
Barney86
Well-Known Member
Hmm...just looked again and that bottom pic looks like it's still got to fatten out a bit.
Maybe 2 weeks + I think if it all looks like that from further way.
She should still swell up nicely if that is the case
Maybe 2 weeks + I think if it all looks like that from further way.
She should still swell up nicely if that is the case
DaddyKush
Well-Known Member
Don't take this the wrong way, but you aren't talking to a rookie. I'm here trying to help someone else, I don't appreciate your condescending tone.
Firstly, there is indeed a 2 week window when they are ready for harvest.
Depending on the dunt you want,
you harvest at clear trich for a speedy, head high.
Mostly cloudy for a mid wave.
Then mostly amber for a couch lock, heavy body stone.
That process takes about 2 weeks.
The buds are a bawhair away from fully matured at the head high, euphoric phase.
You will lose a little yield but for those seeking it that won't matter.
Sativas pulled at that point can go into the realms of psychedelic!
By the time you get to "mid wave" a week later the buds are fully ripened and won't get any bigger.
If you wait another 5-7 days the trich will turn dark and that's on the tilting point between getting a mong stone and the strength dropping.
It's a risky move but again, those that want that effect will risk it.
Secondly, never go by the breeders recommendations for anything.
It never works out.
You've gotta learn to read the plants for yourself mate.
I've grown loads of autos and they generally take 110-120 days from seed. The longest recommendation was 90 days from the supplier.
Also, which number do you use for the suppliers bloom time?
It says 9 weeks so is that 9 weeks from flip to 12/12?
9 weeks from when it shows sex if it hadn't already ?
Or 9 weeks before it starts throwing pistils out?
To say xxx breeder says it's 63 days bloom is an extremely vague term that could be anywhere between 50 and 75 days roughly depending on which way your looking at it.
I've been doing this since 1995 and today is honestly the first time I've heard anyone use the term "two week window". As for the recommended flower time from the breeder, it's a ballpark figure that comes in handy when you're growing a new strain and you want a rough idea when to start checking your trichs. Now excuse me while I decide whether to block your rude ass or not.
I ve been growing constantly for more than 2 years. In the beginning I was checking trichs constantly with a microscope. But as time goes by I ve come to only harvest by the look. I want to harvest when the buds are fully ripened which means no white pistil anymore. They are signs of flowers that keep forming. You may not get the 100% milky with that method and could end with a few ambers but IMO a fully ripened flower or fruit will always be better. Just a method as the best way remain checking trichs
DaddyKush
Well-Known Member
You can't know when it's fully ripened if you aren't monitoring the trichs. Pistil color mean nothing in this regard. You have to watch the trichs, otherwise you're flying blind and are just guessing.
Barney86
Well-Known Member
Well someone certainly doesn't respond well to constructive critisism anyway.
Sorry mate but by the object factuality of the text I assumed you were a misinformed new guy.
Also, I did say don't take it the wrong way mate.
Im Scottish, were a very straight to the point breed and our language doesn't really translate well into English text. Sounds like we're shouting all the time so I've been told...numerous times .. very agressively which is why I write lol, haha and stuff like that.
The og's gotta make way for the new breed though my friend.
We've got technology on our side these days. It's a far shout away from the oldskool techniques .
Not saying they don't work @DaddyKush but things are a bit more refined these days.
I realise that 25 years ago you had access to information and technology that I couldn't possibly have advanced from but there's a 22oz auto in my profile picthat was transplanted twice, topped, heavily defol'd all the way through veg and bloom, LST 'd and supercropped untill she begged me to stop.
Your gen says autos are hard to grow, fragile, poor yielders. Theres nothing you can do.
Our gen says hmm...how do I turn that Into a pounder. And guess what, we did it.
If there's anything I said in the first post that you can prove wrong then please feel free to do so.
You gave misleading advice mate and I corrected it.
I realise now that you obviously just never elaborated on the methodology but you still bit first so I'm claiming a very immature but still standing, 1-0
Sorry mate but by the object factuality of the text I assumed you were a misinformed new guy.
Also, I did say don't take it the wrong way mate.
Im Scottish, were a very straight to the point breed and our language doesn't really translate well into English text. Sounds like we're shouting all the time so I've been told...numerous times .. very agressively which is why I write lol, haha and stuff like that.
The og's gotta make way for the new breed though my friend.
We've got technology on our side these days. It's a far shout away from the oldskool techniques .
Not saying they don't work @DaddyKush but things are a bit more refined these days.
I realise that 25 years ago you had access to information and technology that I couldn't possibly have advanced from but there's a 22oz auto in my profile picthat was transplanted twice, topped, heavily defol'd all the way through veg and bloom, LST 'd and supercropped untill she begged me to stop.
Your gen says autos are hard to grow, fragile, poor yielders. Theres nothing you can do.
Our gen says hmm...how do I turn that Into a pounder. And guess what, we did it.
If there's anything I said in the first post that you can prove wrong then please feel free to do so.
You gave misleading advice mate and I corrected it.
I realise now that you obviously just never elaborated on the methodology but you still bit first so I'm claiming a very immature but still standing, 1-0
Similar threads
