Help with soil mix in Australia

kisshell

Well-Known Member
I have bought two mixes and hope to use it. This is my first grow and the first plant has sprouted

Looking at topics here , I got two mixes.

For seeding I am using this :

After it gets little bigger I will transplant it two a 3 gal final fabric pot. I am thinking to use following which I have already bought.


I have a photperiod sativa dominant seeds.

I will mix may be 30 percent perlite. Already ordered perlite online. Now since the tomato planting mix has lot of stuff should I not use any nitrosil and cal mag on this during veg?
I will dry wet water this plant. Since this is my first grow I just don't want to do the coco soil method as I think looks to require more work.
I will also try coco soon though.
So can I transplant the plant and just use this above tomato mix?
I couldn't find the NPK data for this mix. Please advice.
 
Hey I'm not to firmiliar with making or blending my own soil....but.... I think I see what your trying to do. Is the first soil not as hot as the second for when you transplant? I use fox farms, and most people know ocean forest has hotter soil than the happy frog so they never start seeds/sprouts in it... So for what I did was put the "hot soil" (ocean forest) in pots first and then filled the top up with "less hot" (happy frog)....my idea was that the plant would start in a lower nutrient home and then as she grew roots would have the readily available higher nutrients as the roots grew down...
 
And for npk value of those im having a hard time finding anything for the soil...except that it is a 6 months release high phosphorus mix(better for flower?!)....only the pellets have a npk value I can find and that's 10-10-10
 
Hey I'm not to firmiliar with making or blending my own soil....but.... I think I see what your trying to do. Is the first soil not as hot as the second for when you transplant? I use fox farms, and most people know ocean forest has hotter soil than the happy frog so they never start seeds/sprouts in it... So for what I did was put the "hot soil" (ocean forest) in pots first and then filled the top up with "less hot" (happy frog)....my idea was that the plant would start in a lower nutrient home and then as she grew roots would have the readily available higher nutrients as the roots grew down...
I am in Australia so cant find fox farms or its really expensive. Currently the seed is in the seedling mix as posted above. So may be I can mix the seed/cut mix with the tomato and herb planting mix 50-50?

Also, is it right that I just have to water the young plant without anything else right?
 
Hi yes understood on the availability and the cost if available. But I can't really see a problem with mixing the soils.. all you have to do is watch the pH make she's getting in the range needed...don't want to burn or starve newly planted ladies. But yes they shouldn't need anything first 2-3 weeks and then start 1/4 feed of nutrients and slowly increase over time with each feeding....

But do you have a journal started so I can follow along and help if needed? Link below in signature to help start one.
 
I am finding the hardest thing to figure out is soil as there isn't much info for ready-made mixes. I am too scared to follow coco instruction from bunnings that is here.
I really just want something where I can just water and not worry about additional things.
 
Hi yes understood on the availability and the cost if available. But I can't really see a problem with mixing the soils.. all you have to do is watch the pH make she's getting in the range needed...don't want to burn or starve newly planted ladies. But yes they shouldn't need anything first 2-3 weeks and then start 1/4 feed of nutrients and slowly increase over time with each feeding....

But do you have a journal started so I can follow along and help if needed? Link below in signature to help start one.
No but I will start it soon. I have to read the journal guide thoroughly. Thanks for the help!
 
I am finding the hardest thing to figure out is soil as there isn't much info for ready-made mixes. I am too scared to follow coco instruction from bunnings that is here.
I really just want something where I can just water and not worry about additional things.
Sometimes it is easier to learn about growing in soil by just doing it. There might be nothing wrong with using the soil outside where neighbors have vegetable or flower gardens. Nor any problem in using or mixing the soils you bought.

Sometimes we get so worried about doing it right that we overdo it all. It sounds like you are getting a good start but hold off on adding any nutrients or fertilizers until well after the young plants have adapted to the soils you already have.

I will mix may be 30 percent perlite. Already ordered perlite online.
There might already be Perlite in the soil mixes that you bought. Not a lot but something to keep in mind.

Worrying about the NPK numbers for bags of Scotts soil means little in the long run since they have already fortified their mix with nutrients.

Since you are in Australia you must be planning on growing your new plants indoors. What lights have you chosen?
 
Sometimes it is easier to learn about growing in soil by just doing it. There might be nothing wrong with using the soil outside where neighbors have vegetable or flower gardens. Nor any problem in using or mixing the soils you bought.

Sometimes we get so worried about doing it right that we overdo it all. It sounds like you are getting a good start but hold off on adding any nutrients or fertilizers until well after the young plants have adapted to the soils you already have.


There might already be Perlite in the soil mixes that you bought. Not a lot but something to keep in mind.

Worrying about the NPK numbers for bags of Scotts soil means little in the long run since they have already fortified their mix with nutrients.

Since you are in Australia you must be planning on growing your new plants indoors. What lights have you chosen?
Reading through all the topics I just got really confused about the growing medium. Is growing on the these soil called Super soil?
I had bought Mars Hydro Ts 600 but since I figured I would need a separate veg tent later on so got Viparspectra p1500. My grow tent is small. 1.7x3x5 ft

So I will just confirm, leave the current small pot for 2 weeks and only water when it looks dry around the plant. After 2 weeks transplant it to bigger (3 gal) fabric with just the tomato Herb planting mix.
Another thing I am confused is if I should add a little nitrosil and cal mag after it's been transplanted. I read that it's really difficult determine this on a ready made soil.


Also, do I have to add anything to this tomato herb mix or leave it alone? Or should I add something like the seed and cut mix or another thing with it?
Thanks for the help.
 
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Your seedling mix is actually a coco/peat mix which typically needs a lower input pH (5.8-6.1), and the other is a soil (6.2-6.5) so I don’t recommend mixing them when you transplant. Neither claim to be organic although it says it in the name. It’s a Scott’s product, so keep in mind they both have built in nutrients. You should probably use water only for the first couple of weeks as a seedling, and when you transplant into the other soil.
Transplant into 5 gallon or bigger when you’re watering every day.
I have a few good links on watering, transplanting, and soil building in my signature that might be helpful.
For the seedling mix I would add in CalMag for every feed. When you’re in the other soil, use it every other feed.
I’m not sure what nitrosil is.
 
Reading through all the topics I just got really confused about the growing medium.
It happens like that sometimes.

After a couple of weeks the plant can be placed in a larger container. Yes, you could mix the seed starter soil and the tomato soil together when you do that. Do not add anything to this soil until the plant has adapted and grow more roots.

While typing this I see that @AdaminCO did some research on what is in the bags of soil. If you do not want to buy another bag of some sort of soil mix then you might have to consider whether to blend what you have which means learning a bit about the water retention of each of the mixes.

Is growing on the these soil called Super soil?
Super Soil is not growing. It is a mix of one or more soils plus amendments like Perlite, Peat Moss, maybe coco coir and other things that will change the structure of the soil. Structure is the physical way the soil looks and acts. Then there are amendments that are added to Super Soil which are put in to avoid the possibility of specific problems that might come up weeks or even two months down the road.

Go one step at a time. Sometimes reading up on the basics of growing Marijuana should start with the basics of growing anything. Then move on into growing Marijuana.

And, you still should mention if you are planning on growing these inside. If so, what lights?
 
It happens like that sometimes.

After a couple of weeks the plant can be placed in a larger container. Yes, you could mix the seed starter soil and the tomato soil together when you do that. Do not add anything to this soil until the plant has adapted and grow more roots.

While typing this I see that @AdaminCO did some research on what is in the bags of soil. If you do not want to buy another bag of some sort of soil mix then you might have to consider whether to blend what you have which means learning a bit about the water retention of each of the mixes.


Super Soil is not growing. It is a mix of one or more soils plus amendments like Perlite, Peat Moss, maybe coco coir and other things that will change the structure of the soil. Structure is the physical way the soil looks and acts. Then there are amendments that are added to Super Soil which are put in to avoid the possibility of specific problems that might come up weeks or even two months down the road.

Go one step at a time. Sometimes reading up on the basics of growing Marijuana should start with the basics of growing anything. Then move on into growing Marijuana.

And, you still should mention if you are planning on growing these inside. If so, what lights?
I am using the viparspectra p1500 and also have Mars hydro ts600.
Using p1500 as it has a dimmer.
After I transplant to planting mix, how would I know if the root is developed. Down we just take it out from the pot and check the root?
 
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Your seedling mix is actually a coco/peat mix which typically needs a lower input pH (5.8-6.1), and the other is a soil (6.2-6.5) so I don’t recommend mixing them when you transplant. Neither claim to be organic although it says it in the name. It’s a Scott’s product, so keep in mind they both have built in nutrients. You should probably use water only for the first couple of weeks as a seedling, and when you transplant into the other soil.
Transplant into 5 gallon or bigger when you’re watering every day.
I have a few good links on watering, transplanting, and soil building in my signature that might be helpful.
For the seedling mix I would add in CalMag for every feed. When you’re in the other soil, use it every other feed.
I’m not sure what nitrosil is.
Due to small tent max I want to use is 3 gal. I think I can only let it veg for 1 to 1.5 ft due to height constraints. And I am trying to do the dry and wet method for watering. 3 gal should be good for a small plant right?
I am predicting the sativa dominat seed is gonna grow really tall.
 
After I transplant to planting mix, how would I know if the root is developed. Down we just take it out from the pot and check the root?
The lights you mention should be good. I was just concerned that you might not have gotten any lights yet.

You will know that the roots are developing because the plant continues to grow new leaves and it gets taller and wider. Once the grower knows for sure that the seedling is growing properly then they can consider transplanting to a larger container of soil.

Signs of successful transplanting is that the plant does not wilt very much. With experience a grower can transplant and not see any signs of wilting. If the plant does wilt it recovers within a several hours or by the next day and that is the sign of success plus a good root system.
 
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1648480262611.png

Your seedling mix is actually a coco/peat mix which typically needs a lower input pH (5.8-6.1), and the other is a soil (6.2-6.5) so I don’t recommend mixing them when you transplant. Neither claim to be organic although it says it in the name. It’s a Scott’s product, so keep in mind they both have built in nutrients. You should probably use water only for the first couple of weeks as a seedling, and when you transplant into the other soil.
Transplant into 5 gallon or bigger when you’re watering every day.
I have a few good links on watering, transplanting, and soil building in my signature that might be helpful.
For the seedling mix I would add in CalMag for every feed. When you’re in the other soil, use it every other feed.
I’m not sure what nitrosil is.
Hi Mate,
I have few auto fem seeds now so I have to make a Medium in a 3 gal pot soon as it's a auto.
Can you please help me to make the medium.
I am thinking of using 70% tomato planting mix above and 30% perlite. Is that alright? Will the perlite activate the slow release fertilizer or mess up if I add too much perlite?

Also, I have Amgrow Nitrosol for veg:

And , Powered red for flowering:

So when we feed , I do the dry wet method and feed the cal mag and nitrosol/powerfeed according stage every other watering right ?
And for the seedling stage which day should I start adding the cal mag? It's 3 days now but just trying to prepare myself.
Sorry mate so many questions.
 
@kisshell I look at perlite as something to just add some aeration to your mix, but you don't need much.

I use my own custom made mixture based on: compost soil, volcanic cinder (mostly black cinder), coco coir, fresh worm compost from our worm bins, and organic ferts from a U.S. company called Down to Earth. The ferts: oyster shell powder, seabird guano, bat guano, dolomite, gypsum, greensand, potassium sulfate. I also add a little biochar if I have some. Of course, all of these in the right ratios.

I recommend good quality coco coir (ground up coconut husks) instead of peat moss. Peat moss is acidic, while coco coir is neutral. The coir can be somewhat difficult to acquire, and the lower quality stuff can have too much salt in it. Coir is great for allowing water to penetrate throughout your pot, and also retains moisture.

Even with an auto, I would consider larger pot size than 3 gal... at least 6 gal. Take a look at this auto: What do you think about her
 
@kisshell I look at perlite as something to just add some aeration to your mix, but you don't need much.

I use my own custom made mixture based on: compost soil, volcanic cinder (mostly black cinder), coco coir, fresh worm compost from our worm bins, and organic ferts from a U.S. company called Down to Earth. The ferts: oyster shell powder, seabird guano, bat guano, dolomite, gypsum, greensand, potassium sulfate. I also add a little biochar if I have some. Of course, all of these in the right ratios.

I recommend good quality coco coir (ground up coconut husks) instead of peat moss. Peat moss is acidic, while coco coir is neutral. The coir can be somewhat difficult to acquire, and the lower quality stuff can have too much salt in it. Coir is great for allowing water to penetrate throughout your pot, and also retains moisture.

Even with an auto, I would consider larger pot size than 3 gal... at least 6 gal. Take a look at this auto: What do you think about her
Holly Molly that looks really big for auto!
If I use 6 gal it's gona take a lot of space in my small tent. How much perlite do you think I should keep in this ready made mix? May be 10 or 20%?
 
I have no experience growing autos indoors... I'm an outdoor grower of photoperiod plants. So, maybe 3 gal. would be OK.

I use maybe 1 gal. perlite in 15 gal. soil mixture. So, maybe 4 cups perlite in 3 gal. soil.
 
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