Leaf Problem: Pineapple Express Auto vs. Blueberry 420 Auto

twoforks

420 Member
Hello,

I am growing Pineapple Express Auto and Blueberry Auto in the same conditions:

Age: 55 days
Soil: 3 gallon Ocean Forrest + Rice hulls
Nutrients: Botanicare PureBlend Cal/Mag + Bloom.
Light: LED Grow/Bloom on 20 hours.

I just flushed, but the leaves on both my pineapple express auto are looking rough, especially compared to the the Blueberry 420 auto.
They are getting yellow spots that appear to enlarge with he middle of the spot turning brown. Now some upper leaves have started to curl and dry the same.
Apparently, they have different needs.

Probably too late to help now, but for my next grow I would like to know what I may have did wrong.
Any thoughts on what may have went wrong with the pineapple?

Thanks!


20220213_104916.jpg
 
looks like a possible case of spider mites
Not seeing any mites. I think it is a bad picture of the bud - the flash and resolution appeared to blowout the white in the pistils and trichomes.
Here is a close-up of the cola showing the leaf damage and trichome progress:
20220213_115725.jpg
 
It seems odd to me that both my pineapple express autos are doing this, but the blueberry420 autos are not. Been under the same conditions and feeding schedule.
 
looks like a possible case of spider mites
my first thought too.

3 gallon could lead to late ph issues too which can look a bit similar. 5 gallon generally do better. it still looks like mites though.

i find it odd how many posts we get at this point in flower with the issue. it's a bitch at this point. i've always corrected in veg and rode any residual through flower with no trouble.

It seems odd to me that both my pineapple express autos are doing this, but the blueberry420 autos are not. Been under the same conditions and feeding schedule.


keep watch. some are more prone than others. if mites they all eventually get it. if ph they mostly will all show around the same time. mites can take a bit depending on strain.


edit : pull a couple crappy leaves and get a loupe all over them. especially underneath. at this point though the buggers will start retreating in to the bud itself.


snap crackle pop
 
The spots along the vein lines are a classic sign of mites and they will eventually migrate to your other plants without preventative measures, ie isolate it
I have been known to torch an entire plant rather than risk mites taking hold in the grow room - if that happens it's a real serious struggle to get clean again
Think I'd cut my losses and take off all the affected fan leaves, your bud will still ripen
 
Not seeing any mites. I think it is a bad picture of the bud - the flash and resolution appeared to blowout the white in the pistils and trichomes.
By the time you can see mites crawling on a leaf or strands of their webs then the problem is approaching being severe or out of control. The damage that they do is what shows up first and I do see what definitely looks like mite or insect damage on some of the older leaves. I have noticed that like some other plant problems the mite damage will show in the older leaves first and on the buds and sugar leaves last.

They are getting yellow spots that appear to enlarge with he middle of the spot turning brown. Now some upper leaves have started to curl and dry the same.
The problem with good and bad photos of the plants is common and something we all face. What I see are the areas that might be called an orange color. Some of those could be caused by insect damage and some caused by the starting signs of a nutrient deficiency.
 
i find it odd how many posts we get at this point in flower with the issue. it's a bitch at this point. i've always corrected in veg and rode any residual through flower with no trouble.
By this point in flowering the plant is demanding more and demanding it faster than most soils, or basic hydro schedules, can deliver. Any insect problems just compound the problem since the insects are demanding their share of the nutrients and fluids from the leaves of the plants.

I figure most people, and yes growers are people too, overlook the small signs early on while their plants are in a rapid growing phase like vegetating. We go and look at our plants two, three and maybe more times in a day and get used to seeing those small spots, insects or nutrient caused, and the more we get used to seeing them the more likely we are to ignore them since the plant seems so healthy.

Then when the flower phase starts the only rapid growth is the 'stretch' and not all those new leaves and stems. By the time the stretch stops, and with no new fan leaves developing, all the other problems suddenly stand out and become noticeable as something going wrong.
 
my first thought too.

3 gallon could lead to late ph issues too which can look a bit similar. 5 gallon generally do better. it still looks like mites though.

i find it odd how many posts we get at this point in flower with the issue. it's a bitch at this point. i've always corrected in veg and rode any residual through flower with no trouble.




keep watch. some are more prone than others. if mites they all eventually get it. if ph they mostly will all show around the same time. mites can take a bit depending on strain.


edit : pull a couple crappy leaves and get a loupe all over them. especially underneath. at this point though the buggers will start retreating in to the bud itself.


snap crackle pop
I clipped 6-7 leaves that were damaged and viewed under 30x, but I cannot find any mites.
I'll do some more research on mites.
Thanks!
 
@twoforks your problem reminds me a lot of this thread. Here are my replies to that one...

Yes, looks like necrosis caused by either under fertilizing or over fertilizing ("nutrient burn"). It could be a calcium or phosphorous deficiency. The flower growth is very vigorous, so perhaps not enough phosphorous to support that.

My approach is to make my own growing medium. High quality coco coir is one of my ingredients. I use mostly Down To Earth fertilizers – all the essentials. I also usually mix in some liquid nitrogen fert when watering, up until about a week before harvesting.

Watch out for the necrosis – mold likes to get started on dead material. If those were my flowers, I would be clipping off the affected leaves religiously. This is what I do in my climate here in Hawaii, which is very humid. Otherwise, mold is invited and the buds can be lost. In my case, I also monitor carefully how many stigmas have gone brown (hairs on the flowers), and actually harvest a bit earlier than optimum in terms of trichome development. I use a spray of hydrogen peroxide in distilled water to inhibit the mold as needed.

For bugs, I make a spray of neem oil, peppermint Bronner's soap, and a very small amount of food grade orange oil (pure limonene), mixed in water. I spray this on top and bottom of leaves, and anywhere bugs are seen. The limonene is a potent insecticide, but be very careful how much you use, otherwise it will burn the leaves.

According to Rosenthal's book, magnesium deficiency causes the leaves to yellow on the edges: "... starts in the lower leaves. The veins remain green while the rest of the leaf turns yellow...". According to the book, what you have there looks more like calcium or phosphorous deficiency, i.e. brown necrosis spots, if indeed this is a deficiency and not over-fertilizing (nutrient burn). My Trichome Tech book says that magnesium deficiency causes stunting of growth, which it seems this plant doesn't have. Again, maybe the plant didn't have enough phosphorous to support the very vigorous flower growth.
 
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