LED CFL Coco Vs Soil

[Perfect Sun LED]

I added a DIY CO2 maker to the tent. Here is how I did it. Products needed.

1. Empty, sanitised milk jug
2. Active Yeast. I used Red Star Champagne, active wine yeast because it makes lots of co2 and last a while. It was cheap on Amazon, like less than a dollar for a packet, which does 5 gallons, but I used a whole packet.
3. 1 can of grape juice with no preservatives, from concentrate. It can be mixed. Mine is grape, peace
4. Two cups of sugar
5. water
6. air lock. I bought two on amazon for $6. They came with the rubber stopper things that fit right into the milk jug.
7. raisins and or dates.
8. rubber glove or comdom
9. Fish tank air hose. You can buy 8 feet at walmart in the fish supply area for $1.87 or so.


The air locks are not necessary, but it makes for good drinking alcohol when it stops producing c02, so you can drink it when done. Same with using good yeast. You can use bakers yeast from Walmart, though.

First boil a few cups of water. Add two cups of sugar and a half cup of rainins and or dates. Let boil for a little bit. The raisins and or dates add nuetrition for the yeast that is necessary to keep them very active and get good drinkable wine/mead.

Let the sugar water cool down. Strain out raisins. Add cold juice concentrate. Let the mix get to room temp, about 70 degrees. Add active yeast, place air lock on top. Place the comdon onto the end of the airlock. Tie it on with zip tie, rubber band, string, etc.

Cut a hole in the tip for the air hose. If using a glove, cut a hole in a tip of a finger.

Place the hose inside the hole, use a small zip tie to make it air tight. Zip ties are cheap at walmart.

Drill little holes about 1-3 inches apart along the air tube, or poke holes. Just be sure air escapes easily from them. Put tin foil or something around the jug so that light doesn't penetrate it.

Wrap the hose around the tops of your plants. Shake the bottle up well. You will not need to keep shaking the bottome up because you boiled the sugar water first.

To be sure your yeast is not dead, put the end of the hose in water or one of the holes in water to see if you see bubbles now and again. If not, then the yeast is not working. Be sure not to kill the yeast with too warm or too cold of water. Be sure the liquid in your container is about 70 when you add the yeast.

 

[WizHigh]

Since your using organics it will be hard to burn at 1200 PPM since you gave them 900 last feed. That's what I did just gradually build up the PPM each feed.

 

[Perfect Sun LED]

So far, they look good. The NL might need to be watered tomorrow already. If so, I will do water and florakleen again.

 

[WizHigh]

I cant wait for my NNXBB to grow up into a healthy beautiful woman Standing by for some updates

 

[Perfect Sun LED]

Wiz, What is NNXBB?

7th day in 12/12

Figured I should call it 12/12 instead of flower, since they aren't flowering yet.

I rearanged the two NL to better take advantage of the light. I want the smaller tops in the middle to catch up. That's the idea.

I think they are too big. In that red area is just the two NL. They will double in size, but hopefully now that will only be upwards. I super cropped a few branches. I turned both plants and retied some branches to take advantage of the space better.

Watered--been two days since last watering, which was with nutes.

I let the water sit out for like 5 hours for some of the chlorine will evaporate. Watered with ph 5.6, florakleen, cal-mag+. Gave extra water to help flush them. I try to water with water between nutes.

The Mendo Purp recovered and is starting to grow a bit. At least it is green now. Some of the older growth remains purple. I thinkt that will not change. I am keep a 300w and 200w cfl over her. She gets some splash from the HPS as well, about 15,000-20,000lux.

 

[WizHigh]

I meant Northern Lights x Big Bud

 

[Perfect Sun LED]

Ah, NLxBB. That should be a good mix. Northern Light is super bushy and big buds produce super nugs.

 

[jon705]

check this guy out lol...

 

[Perfect Sun LED]

I think you meant, "Hey, buy my lights, please.

The specs look good, but the product photos make them look very weak. However, the photos of them hanging and in action, produce lots of purple,pink and look very powerful.

 

[Perfect Sun LED]

Update

The plants didn't respond well to the 1200ppm. In fact, because it takes like three days or longer to see the effects of what you feed them, they might not have responded well to the 900ppm. The first thing to tip me off was seeing the following.

When I first saw this, I thought, that looks like a magnesium deficiency, but I also consider the plant's history. I know what I have been feeding it, and that I have been testing out how much ppm they can handle. Clearly some kind of deficiency was going on, but the response was not to feed more nutes. No way the plant will get deficiency at 1200ppm, so it must be lockout. Lockout is most likely from nute burn, so I started to look at leaf tips. Found some that had slight burned tips. Then I looked at under leaves, the hidden ones.

I know the burning cannot be caused from light because it was undergrowth, where hardly any light reaches. When diagnosing your plants, keep your plant history in mind. If you see what looks like magnesium or N deficiency, don't just straight away feed it more. You could stunt your plants for good.

Here was my solution.

I did this from 3am-6am. Damn, took forever.

First, my plants are in 3 gallon smart pots (fabric pots) with holes cut in the bottom.

I poured 3 gallons of ph 5.8 water with 1tsp of Florakleen per gal into one Northern Light. Then I started pouring just pure Ph 5.8 water, no Florakleen. I did this until the run off was about 250-300 ppm. I was suprised at how high the run off was at first, which clearly told me there was a salt build up, and that I was on the right track for treatment.

After first gallon, I got an error for run of, which most likely means the reading was too high, but I'm not sure how high my thing reads. I then poured galon 2 and 3 of florakleen water through, and got a run off reading of 1800 ppm. Wow. 3 gallons later, with Florakleen, and 1800ppm, when the most I fed it with was 1200ppm. No doubt, there is a salt build up. I started to flush with just ph water. The reason this took so long, is after I poured a gal through, I had to pump the water out of the run off tray, into a big pot, then test the water, then dump it.

After the first gallon of ph water, 560ppm. Nice. Huge reduction. 2 gal, 400ppm. 3 gal, 300ppm. 4 gal 250ppm.

I figured that was good enough. She should recover nicely. I noticed no more damaged leaves today, so as seems well.

I repeated the same process for the second NL, until 300ppm. By this time, I was getting lazy, so I took the Mendo Purp, Lucy, and White Widow into the shower. I rensed each one for about 3 minutes, until a good 6-9 gallons went through. I watched until the run off looks pretty clear.

I am not worried about the ph of my tap water. It was 7.1 at the time. I treated my soil with a good amount of lime, so the ph in the soil stays 7.0 really easy, same witht he coco that I treated with lime. This means when I water with 5.8ph, it shoots up to 7.0 within a few hours.

I didn't test the run off of the other plants because I knew about how much water needed to go through them to get it down. This is one method recommended by Jorge Cervantes.

After they dry out, I will feed them with Ph water 5.8, B1 plant starter--Lilly Miller UltraGreen. It provides cheleted iron, manganese, and zinc, and of course B1. This stuff is great for when you transplant, leech, flush, or put your plant through stress at all.

I will also feed with Alaska Fish Fertilizer. 5-1-1. This is organic, so it is hard to burn the plant. I want to feed with this and just water a few times before feeding with flora series again. I want to be sure they are recovered and don't burn again.

I will also feed with Hygrozyme or something similar, just in case the roots suffered at all.

In fact, I might just water with water again when they dry out. I will water one with just a gallon of water and check the ppm. I don't want to cause more lockout. There is enough nutrients in the soil now and in the large leaves for the plant to pull from. I will add the B1 and Hygrozyme regardless, though.

 

[WizHigh]

You know hygrozyme does the same as flora klean but better. Hygrozyme breaks down salts and old roots to turn into food. Keeps the medium clean. Use hygrozyme on very feed

 

[Perfect Sun LED]

Florakleen is different. It breaks up disolved salts, great for flushing when you have a salt build up. Products like these are used when you have lockout, or when you do your final flush.

Products like hygrozyme and cannazyme are enzymes that break down rotted root matter, which promotes healthy and new root growth.

I like both products. I also like mykos.

 

[Cultivator]

yeah i use drip clean alongside cannazym. not only does it remove excess salts, it also gives the plants a great boost. plants look lusher shade of green when i use drip clean.

 

[WizHigh]

Ill have to look into getting one of them!

 

[Perfect Sun LED]

Wiz, they work great together, no contradictions.

Plants are looking good so far. No more signs of deficiency on other leaves, well, but like two, so i think they are starting to take from the soil again instead of from leaves.

 

[Perfect Sun LED]

That was some fast brewing alcohol. The first batch is already finished, after 5-6 days. Then again, I did put a lot more yeast than it needed. One packet is good for 5 gallons, and I put the whole thing in there. In my second batch I have brewing with just orange juice and sugar, I only put in half the packet.

I bought a 5 gallon bucket with an air tight lid for my next batch. I will put one packet in that. I will have like 3 to 4 air hoses or more coming out of it.

I will post in just a bit with pics. Finally, hairs coming from the tops. yay. Over 60 tops that are exposed to good light too. Going to be huge.

They look pretty recovered from the burn. There is one area that still had some new burn marks show up, but I think that might be from the light because the lux there is greatest, so just in case, I raised the hps a bit. It was the only place new burns showed up.

I will water tomorrow. I will post what I water with. They are pretty dry right now.

Alcohol

The alcohol smells pretty acidic. Not very pleasant, but it taste good. It came out strong, like maybe 20%. I mixed it with some juice, and it tastes even better. I think after sitting in the fridge to kill the remaining yeast, the smell should improve.

 

[Perfect Sun LED]

11th day in 12/12

1st day in flower

Finally, all the bud sites have hairs. Woot. In a week, they should all little flowers. I consider this the first day of flower, so in 70 days, I expect to harvest.

I took the following photo with a 6x magnifying glass and Iphone 4. I held it up to the lense.

Plants seem to be recovering fine from the salt build up.

 

[Vick074]

Looking good LEDRF!
just got caught up
nice to see some lady bits at the end!


Thanks for the reps too!

 

[Perfect Sun LED]

Thx vick

Watered

It's been 2 days since I flushed them and 7 days since I fed them nutes.

I watered each one with a gal of water and B1 plant starter, Alaska organic fish 5-1-1, cal-mag plus, hygrozyme, and root zone (sulable)

Root Zone is like GreatWhite. It has all the multi fungus and such, and can be used hydroponically. It's only $18, though, so more affordable.

Before I compared Mykos to GreatWhite, but it isn't the same because it only has one fungus.

 

[Perfect Sun LED]

Here is a new CFL lamp/hood/reflector design I came up with and a how to video to DIY. It cost under $40 and puts out 40,000 lux at a few inches away. It is super easy. Plug and play easy. No wiring!

If you want to add another $10, the hood will push out 50,000 to 55,000 at the safe distance from your tops.

You can put more 2700k bulbs in the mix to flower with even, if you insist on flowering with cfls.

Cheap DIY CFL lamp that rocks with 50,000 lux - YouTube

I might do a quick photo run-down tutorial.