NorthernCosmos' First Indoor Soil Auto Grow: 2019
- Thread starter NorthernCosmos
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Sorry for disappearing again. I was busy.
They were 3/8" but 1/2" would work.
They were 3/8" but 1/2" would work.
VG!- Thread starter
- #44
NorthernCosmos
Well-Known Member
Thank you for joining in Virgin ground! 
Done! Used an 8mm drill bit. I'd like to make about twice as many holes - maybe later and for the next buckets I prepare. Anyway, from a purely technical standpoint, the aeration, evaporation and draining HAS to be better now. Oh, and it's day 20 just for the logging.
Done! Used an 8mm drill bit. I'd like to make about twice as many holes - maybe later and for the next buckets I prepare. Anyway, from a purely technical standpoint, the aeration, evaporation and draining HAS to be better now. Oh, and it's day 20 just for the logging.
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- #46
NorthernCosmos
Well-Known Member
Here are the Cosmic Grow Buckets Mk 2™ 
for the overlapping plants that I plan to start in two weeks. I could drill another row above the bottom one, but with 300 holes today I'm having a break with a Gin & Tonic + today's Formula 1 race!
The reason why I use these 12 liter (3.2 gallon) household buckets to start with, is that I have a huge stack of them from my chili growing. They cost a fraction of the "cheap" standard black plastic pots, let alone "specialist" pots (locally) and are very sturdy. I know, 5 gallon is the general recommendation, but I'm way over budget and have to use what I've got, so that'll have to come later.
P.S. There's one last modification I'm considering, and that's some baffles, running from top to bottom, reaching maybe a centimeter or two inwards, to create a barrier to avoid circular root growth - however, I'm not sure if there's any real benefits to that(?)
for the overlapping plants that I plan to start in two weeks. I could drill another row above the bottom one, but with 300 holes today I'm having a break with a Gin & Tonic + today's Formula 1 race!The reason why I use these 12 liter (3.2 gallon) household buckets to start with, is that I have a huge stack of them from my chili growing. They cost a fraction of the "cheap" standard black plastic pots, let alone "specialist" pots (locally) and are very sturdy. I know, 5 gallon is the general recommendation, but I'm way over budget and have to use what I've got, so that'll have to come later.
P.S. There's one last modification I'm considering, and that's some baffles, running from top to bottom, reaching maybe a centimeter or two inwards, to create a barrier to avoid circular root growth - however, I'm not sure if there's any real benefits to that(?)
Yes we have to work with what we have
Good job!- Thread starter
- #48
NorthernCosmos
Well-Known Member
Day 22. Looking good, I think.
However... On the Amnesia (left plant) the lower leaves have developed some brown spots, probably sneaking up on me during the last 48 hours:
The closest picture match I can find in the various diagnostic guides is calcium deficiency. The water here is hard though, and the base soil has lime in it (1.6kg per cubic meter), so I don't know what to make of it... Probably worrying too much.
However... On the Amnesia (left plant) the lower leaves have developed some brown spots, probably sneaking up on me during the last 48 hours:
The closest picture match I can find in the various diagnostic guides is calcium deficiency. The water here is hard though, and the base soil has lime in it (1.6kg per cubic meter), so I don't know what to make of it... Probably worrying too much.
JCTJ
Well-Known Member
Things are looking good. It could be early signs of over watering. Based on what you said about the soil being so wet still by Saturday from Wednesday. Sunday you added the speed holes, so it should have started letting things dry up a little and breathe. At this point I wouldn't worry about it too much as long as it doesn't keep progressing.
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- #50
NorthernCosmos
Well-Known Member
Day 23 and feeding time! I can swear you can almost see them grow now , so I reckon a little water will do them good , supposing the possible over watering symptoms were delayed and from the last feeding 8 days ago.
The soil was dry enough at 2" deep half way between the stem and the rim of the pots that it didn't stick to my finger. I really think those speed holes have an effect (they have a name - yay!) .
Inspired by @Emilya's watering guide, I watered slowly in several rounds, mostly near the perimeter, until there was a little runoff. Each plant has a soil volume of, say, 2.8 gallons (10 liter), and got ca. 0.35 gallons (1.3 liter) of water each. This did not seem to make the soil soggy. They also got 0.75ml Vitalink Root Stim (sea weed based), but no other nutes this time.
I'm considering starting some LST in a few days - have to study it a bit more first, and I'm also counting on a few cm more growth for the stem and branches so that there's actually anything to bend and tie down.
P.S. Are you guys fine with metric or is it best to continue with dual units: C -> F, liter -> gallon, cm -> inch?
P.P.S. A "secret" message to @CraZysWeeD: Jeg kom på at jeg burde være mer tydelig angående hvilke nasjonaliteter du har støtt på her - nå er det bare bare Bellmann igjen
Født og oppvokst på en side av grensen, men bor og gror på den andre 
, so I reckon a little water will do them good , supposing the possible over watering symptoms were delayed and from the last feeding 8 days ago.The soil was dry enough at 2" deep half way between the stem and the rim of the pots that it didn't stick to my finger. I really think those speed holes have an effect (they have a name - yay!) .
Inspired by @Emilya's watering guide, I watered slowly in several rounds, mostly near the perimeter, until there was a little runoff. Each plant has a soil volume of, say, 2.8 gallons (10 liter), and got ca. 0.35 gallons (1.3 liter) of water each. This did not seem to make the soil soggy. They also got 0.75ml Vitalink Root Stim (sea weed based), but no other nutes this time.
I'm considering starting some LST in a few days - have to study it a bit more first, and I'm also counting on a few cm more growth for the stem and branches so that there's actually anything to bend and tie down.
P.S. Are you guys fine with metric or is it best to continue with dual units: C -> F, liter -> gallon, cm -> inch?
P.P.S. A "secret" message to @CraZysWeeD: Jeg kom på at jeg burde være mer tydelig angående hvilke nasjonaliteter du har støtt på her - nå er det bare bare Bellmann igjen
Født og oppvokst på en side av grensen, men bor og gror på den andre 
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
I am good with metric, but I want you to read my watering guide again. I know I mentioned checking the water level with your finger in there. Also, if you had to go 8 days since the last watering to dry the containers out, those roots are really in bad shape and it is going to take a few rounds to get them working correctly again. I have a 5 day rule... if the container has not dried out in that time, I will do a partial watering (about 1/3 of the normal amount that produces runoff) just to keep the upper set of roots active and the metabolism rate of the plant high. This amount of water is quickly absorbed, and then you can get back to waiting for the entire container to dry out so as to do a complete saturation watering.
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- #52
NorthernCosmos
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Thanks for the tips, Emilya!
I'm a little bit scared to hear that the roots may have taken a hit... these are autos, so I don't have too much time to get it right. Do you mean the roots may have had it too dry? Keep in mind that they have had a little too much previously. What do you think of the amount of water it took to get a little runoff - does it seem like the soil was too thirsty?
For reference, here they are, pics taken just now :
I'm a little bit scared to hear that the roots may have taken a hit... these are autos, so I don't have too much time to get it right. Do you mean the roots may have had it too dry? Keep in mind that they have had a little too much previously. What do you think of the amount of water it took to get a little runoff - does it seem like the soil was too thirsty?
For reference, here they are, pics taken just now :
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
no, your roots down below are not getting dry enough. Be even more patient. Think of the water table as a diaphragm that is the only mechanism in the whole system that is able to suck oxygen down to the very bottom of the container to those big feeder roots down there. If you continuously lose your nerve and water too early, those roots stay under water and the diaphragm is never able to pull the needed oxygen down there into that last inch of container.Thanks for the tips, Emilya!
I'm a little bit scared to hear that the roots may have taken a hit... these are autos, so I don't have too much time to get it right. Do you mean the roots may have had it too dry? Keep in mind that they have had a little too much previously. What do you think of the amount of water it took to get a little runoff - does it seem like the soil was too thirsty?
For reference, here they are, pics taken just now :
The fact that it took more water to get to runoff is a good sign, because it means that you let the top of the water table get down further than you have been, but I propose that you could have gone further and had to use even more water to get to this point of runoff if you had waited. There is no such thing as the soil being too thirsty. Autos or regulars, roots are still roots. If you overwater or otherwise coddle them, you will not get the best roots out of a weed. You have to force them to seek the water during veg if you want a strong plant.
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- #54
NorthernCosmos
Well-Known Member
OK - noted! I think I'll drill another row of speed holes between the two I already have for more even drying; the aim is to get with the wet/dry cycle as you mention in your guide. Thanks to you growing gurus here on 420 I feel that there's a good chance I'm not going to totally ruin this first grow
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Nothing wrong with a few more holes, but that is not what dries out the soil... it just lets excess escape, and when the suction is set up above the water table it does help to suck in oxygen deep into the rootball if you include some holes on the sides too.
I carefully measured this during early veg in my current grow journal... evaporation accounted for about 1-2% of the water usage... the rest of it, the plant uses. The stronger the roots get, the faster they use that water.
I carefully measured this during early veg in my current grow journal... evaporation accounted for about 1-2% of the water usage... the rest of it, the plant uses. The stronger the roots get, the faster they use that water.
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- #56
NorthernCosmos
Well-Known Member
Day 24. I'm happy to report that yesterday's feeding caused a crazy growth spurt, unlike anything so far. The plants gained a lot of height in 30 hours, and the 5th node is well established on both (I think there's a 6th on it's way). The little ladies are making me proud
It's interesting to see the two (allegedly...) different strains growing to be so similar in shape, colour, node spacing and branching. I suppose the node spacing reflects the growing conditions(?)
I think it's high time to start the low stress training, right? Also, am I counting those nodes right?
It's interesting to see the two (allegedly...) different strains growing to be so similar in shape, colour, node spacing and branching. I suppose the node spacing reflects the growing conditions(?)
I think it's high time to start the low stress training, right? Also, am I counting those nodes right?
Your node counting is correct. Check this link out for some great info on LST
It's an active thread so post questions and pics whenever you want.
How I perform low stress training on my plants: Lots of pics!
Greetings all! I've had members ask about how I do my LST (low stress training) on my plants so I thought I would do a pictorial on it. My pics are of two different plants but don't let that confuse you. It's just easier to demonstrate that way. Let's discuss the theory behind LST for a...
www.420magazine.com
It's an active thread so post questions and pics whenever you want.
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- #58
NorthernCosmos
Well-Known Member
Alright. Here's my first feeble attempt at LST of Wren.
I now suffer the consequences of a low level soil surface - my original LST holes are pretty much useless (ERROR 1), so I drilled some holes close to the soil surface for the tie downs.
I've probably waited to long (ERROR 2), judging from some LST discussions and pictures I've seen - in particular ref. @InTheShed's guide here.
There are som very big leaves that shadows the branches and nodes I' wanted to expose (ERROR 3). Not sure how effective this will be, and as they're autos I guess should be no snipping off leaves(?)
Before LST:
LST'ed. Angle view to show the tie down points:
Top view to show the light openings. Note the big leaves that shadows the lower brances and their would-be exposed nodes:
I now suffer the consequences of a low level soil surface - my original LST holes are pretty much useless (ERROR 1), so I drilled some holes close to the soil surface for the tie downs.
I've probably waited to long (ERROR 2), judging from some LST discussions and pictures I've seen - in particular ref. @InTheShed's guide here.
There are som very big leaves that shadows the branches and nodes I' wanted to expose (ERROR 3). Not sure how effective this will be, and as they're autos I guess should be no snipping off leaves(?)
Before LST:
LST'ed. Angle view to show the tie down points:
Top view to show the light openings. Note the big leaves that shadows the lower brances and their would-be exposed nodes:
That's a tough one to tie down, with the tight node spacing and the low soil level, but I think you're taking the right approach (if late for an auto).
I would go with thick wire over twine though, as it's less likely to cut through the branches. And if it were mine, I'd take off the big leaves that are blocking everything else. Normally I would tuck them, but given the lack of height, I'd say goodbye to those three or four. I take mine at the end of the petiole where the leaf ends and the leaf stem begins, with my thumbnail.
I would go with thick wire over twine though, as it's less likely to cut through the branches. And if it were mine, I'd take off the big leaves that are blocking everything else. Normally I would tuck them, but given the lack of height, I'd say goodbye to those three or four. I take mine at the end of the petiole where the leaf ends and the leaf stem begins, with my thumbnail.
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- #60
NorthernCosmos
Well-Known Member
Thank you @InTheShed!
Another lesson learned! I'll pinch off some of the big leaves then, hopefully not stressing the poor girls too much. Will they even produce buds? It doesn't look like it, but I'm a total noob, so I'm mostly wrong and fumbling my way through this grow
I'll get to work on Ada too, then. Edit: OK done, looks almost identical.
Another lesson learned! I'll pinch off some of the big leaves then, hopefully not stressing the poor girls too much. Will they even produce buds? It doesn't look like it, but I'm a total noob, so I'm mostly wrong and fumbling my way through this grow
I'll get to work on Ada too, then. Edit: OK done, looks almost identical.
