Opinions Needed on LED Lights!

... Like the Mars 700W. It's not anywhere near 700W. You have to read the fine print to see that actual draw is between 300 to 380W. That kind of thing really turns me off....

This is from how LEDs are marked in most cases. Nearly every company labels their panels as (number of diodes) x (wattage rating of the diode). So if it has 100 3 watt diodes, they call it a 300 watt led. In actuality the diodes are driven below max drive current (with good reason) and the voltage used varies depending on the color and maker of the diode. If you go back through some of the older threads on this forum you will see it talked about in length. The fact that Sara (TopLED) actually gives you the real power draw is a lot more than can be said about most of the other companies out there. Actual draw is very hard to calculate without the specs for each of the diodes being used and in what ratios. a quick rule of thumb (and a bit on the high side) is: number of diodes x 3 (volts the diode requires... blues and whites run at 2.4-2.7 reds run at 2.9-3.4) x (max drive current - 50... remember this is in mA so a 3 watt diode would be .750 max drive current use .700) = watts

So for the Mar II 700: 140 diodes x 3 volts x .950A = 399 watts

The drive current could be a little lower than 950mA or they could have a lower voltage diode etc. This is just a rough generalization to get you in the ballpark of what the panel should draw.
 
I had 2 large LED fixtures, 500 Watts each. They grow, but the yield is not what you would hope for. It does produce little heat, so that is an advantage. But I prefer CFLs for sure.
 
I have the 180W model from Advanced LED - another sponsor here.

Do you mean this one?

Please forgive me if this is a lame question. Are you using different lights for veg? If so, could you explain what you're using and why?


Yes that one :)

And yes I use CFL' for veg. T-5s when they're little. Just easier to control rate of growth and since my traffic jams always occur at the entrance to the flower tent (so to speak) the CFLs have the extra flexibility I need if someone needs slowing down. ;)

Not to mention - who can afford 3-4 sets of LEDs at today's prices, unless you're in business ? The one I have my eye on now is over $ 700.00. Oh yeah - in your dreams Kushie :D
 
As for LEDs .... I honestly think that they are going to boom in the next five years, but from what I have seen you have to supplements one reds with 2700k cfls for results worth waiting for... I have seen others grows being better than mind with LEDs while I was using hps and cfls together.... But I honestly think it is all a marketing scheme..... As far as I am aware, they are not quite ready to be used mainstream. This is my opinion, but I just think as for now (not in the near future) cfls Re still the way to go. Again this is just my opinion :)
 
Kush I would love to see an update on that led grow, since you don't seem like an advertisement entirely.lol
 
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This GSC was grown under 1x Mars II 80x5w... turned out much stronger, denser and much more flavor than my previous grow with same strain, but under HPS and HID lighting. I contest to Mars II LED working great, I just ordered 2 more and completely went LED. I was very skeptical too of LED and the marketing hype, but they work, and they work very well, for a great price.
 
Leds are the way to grow. Search Kushington Farms & look at those plants. BID. Icemud. Buckshot. They rule & if you trade them watt for watt they will outyield HPS. But the idea is to run 1/3 the watts & get the same yield! There is plenty of proof on this website of their viability. Just search the grow journals!
 
The mars is the only one I would even consider right now, as it is the only one that I have seen proof for coming from other places besides people trying to sell it. I would love a few but can't afford right now, ill stick tgo my cfls
 
Lush, Advanced, Area 51 & many others have proven themselves on this site as well. You should search a little more because there is plenty of proof of others. Top Led has only been on this site for a year(ish) but plenty of other lights were around & showing their muscle long before then. That said, Top LED is hands down the best pricing versus results I've seen!
 
I just unboxed two greensun cob style led's. Sponsors here too. I have yet to hang them. But I did a wattage draw test and it was actual 122.7 watts draw. Should be interesting to journal.

I had read that COB style lights have a problem obtaining the correct spectrum's..... Not sure which. Has GreenSun overcome this obstacle?

DS
 
I had read that COB style lights have a problem obtaining the correct spectrum's..... Not sure which. Has GreenSun overcome this obstacle?

DS

From tech info I rec'd, 420-740 spectrums are used. I can give exact and where they are positioned, but I need to know if that's ok with Amy first. I will say most reds are in the 630-660 area.
 
Thanks Bass,

I would love to see the full tech spec sheet if sponsor is willing to release it. And why they chose to use the spectrum.

Most of the Scientific data I read still supports the need for some 3,7,9 k White - not much but to closer resemble the full spectrum of the sun. It would seem that doing so would also cover the little bit if deep Blue and Red being used and add IR and BUV.

If this is crazy talk please save me! :) I am no expert in knowledge or experience here and just learning from what I have recently read. I am still in pursuit of answers before making a rather large LED Light purchase myself.

What about lenses? Or I think that is the point of COB - The reflectors act as the lenses?

LOL - I would normally PM this stuff but no ability. GS website does not have the info and 2 days no email replies from sponsor.......

Thanks for answers and the Journal Bassman!

DS
 
DS, I would like to know what scientific data you are referring to. I have never seen data suggest anything. Likewise, in a true scientific paper they will never refer to any white as 9000k. There simply isn't a 9000 rating on the black body Kelvin temperature scale. Also, white LEDs do not contain any UV: B or IR. You can purchase separate diodes in those wavelengths but the blends of phosphors to create white will not go below 430nm or above 740nm.

The purpose of the COB is to reduce production cost and piece count. 1 more robust heat-sink, 1 driver, 1 diode. Yes the process to produce that diode increases price a bit but not as much as the production of 120 or 300 diodes. Lenses and reflectors are used to intensify the radiant flux in a given area. Focus more photons in a smaller area = higher penetration depth.
 
Well "Scientific" - sorry - Should have stated "Data" - I have read soooo much much in last 3 days on this all the sites and data are a bit mixed up in my head. But adding white light was prevalent through most it. The 3,7 and 9k spectrum was something I was just reading about before I responded to this thread ....... so I may have jumped the gun in my ability to back anything with facts...... Hence my disclaimer :)

Check this out: How do LEDs help with Photosynthesis

I have run across other data either stating or supporting similiar data but just got into work - yes on a Sunday! Sooo no time for further links but I am sure you can google them as easy as I......BUT I also read someone's white paper data stating that any type of UV weather it be A, B, or C is not good for Photosynthesis....... Go figure! help!

Need to put a light order in SOON so that is why I am rushing my research :(

Any help on this is GREATLY appreciated..........lighting needed for a 12x4' area ASAP.

Cheers,
DS
 
If you have $3600, get 3 Lush Dominators. I bet you'll yield 2+grams per watt organically!

LOL - Too big an "IF" for now. Very good chance that I can re-sell what i am using in a year from now and upgrade though.

So right now, it appears TopLED has the best bang for the buck. Unless some of the guys testing the SG products (Znet and COB) can change my mind real quickly I will be going with them.

Assuming I do - the 12x4 area is actually 2 tents. 1x (8x4) 1x (4x4). 1 small germination room. Both doing SOG but with plants on different flower lengths/time.

Question is:
3x Mars II 900W (Latest tech - 5w supposed better penetration) - but if running SOG - is it needed?
or
6x 96x3w Reflectors (2/3 the power draw - better redundancy - Supposed Better coverage with light overlap of multiple lights - Cheaper)

And actually leaning towards mixing: 4 reflectors and 1 Mars............. This lighting decision has been nagging at me!
 
Let me be a little more clear. There is no such thing as a white LED that is above 8000K. It is not possible because there is not a black body radiant scale that goes to that level. It in not possible to get IR or UV: A , B, or C from a white diode. UV:A and B can damage and/or cause a morphology in plants and plant cells. Part of that morphology is the production of resins. The rest of their write-up is pretty basic knowledge.
 
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