sure look awesome to me. Congratulation, very healthy looking plants you have there.
2nd DWC/Deep Water Culture Grow: GDP and OG Kush
- Thread starter Berry Knot
- Start date
Nice looking plants. I love how green they are. Looking very good. Buds fattening up time!
- Thread starter
- #43
Berry Knot
New Member
^^thanks guys.
Weekly update: Unfortunately guys this week is not a good update. I screwed myself yesterday.
Normally before I go to work every morning I open up my closet door about 6 inches so when the lights come on the hot air can vent out, Well yesterday I forgot and came home from work to some very sad plants from heat stress.
I hope I dont have to cut her early, The buds are starting to look great now and Id sure hate to cut it now. The leaves yesterday were all droopy, so I opened the door and put more fans on them for the night. This morning all the leaves around the tops perked up and dont look bad. But the bottom half is to far gone and looks like shit. There isnt enough light down there to bring them back i dont think.
Would you guys leave the dead leaves on the bottom to see if hey come back or cut them off? help me out please guys.
On to the pics:
Here is what they looked like the day before this happened.
GDP:
Weekly update: Unfortunately guys this week is not a good update. I screwed myself yesterday.
Normally before I go to work every morning I open up my closet door about 6 inches so when the lights come on the hot air can vent out, Well yesterday I forgot and came home from work to some very sad plants from heat stress.
I hope I dont have to cut her early, The buds are starting to look great now and Id sure hate to cut it now. The leaves yesterday were all droopy, so I opened the door and put more fans on them for the night. This morning all the leaves around the tops perked up and dont look bad. But the bottom half is to far gone and looks like shit. There isnt enough light down there to bring them back i dont think.
Would you guys leave the dead leaves on the bottom to see if hey come back or cut them off? help me out please guys.
On to the pics:
Here is what they looked like the day before this happened.
GDP:
TheAnswer1776
New Member
Usually the leaves bounce back pretty quick, if there just wilted. If the leaves are crispy then cut them off. You should be fine if you keep the temps down.
- Thread starter
- #45
Berry Knot
New Member
Thats what I thought, The top leaves did come back. but the bottoms still havent. Some are crispy and some arent. So I will cut the crispy ones for now..
- Thread starter
- #46
Berry Knot
New Member
Alright guys I had to cut more leaves off today. It doesnt look happy. The GDP didnt get hurt nearly as bad as the OG. The OG kush tops dont want to stay up at all either, The vines are realy flimsy. IDk if thats cuz the buds are gettin heavy or cuz it isnt real happy right now. I am kinda feelin like I need to cut the OG before it gets worse and just let the GDP finish out alone by itself.
What do you guys think? Here are some pics from today..
What do you guys think? Here are some pics from today..
Have you ever read up on HEAT MOISTURE STRESS?
- Thread starter
- #48
Berry Knot
New Member
No I have not, I will do some searching right now..
Edit: I did a search on here and google and found a couple things about it, But not to much. Can you point me in the right direction?
Edit: I did a search on here and google and found a couple things about it, But not to much. Can you point me in the right direction?
Trunk5
New Member
that looks like, nute lock out, mixed with high temps, and no water / there not drinking...
id say take the og do a reschange with just plain phed water see what it does. now that i see it is heat stress, still give it some plain water try and get the plant to transpire faster, if the lower stuff is dieing off, then you may have to cut a few branches off the bottom and lollipop some of the middle lower section, to force the plant to concentrate on the upper bigger buds and you may restore them faster, the plant is not to far gone but you have to keep a close eye on it now for a good couple of days. also the parts of the good leaves that are crispy at the tip you can cut off but leave the green stuff, just cut the tips not the sides. the plant will also try to fix these leaves but if the damaged part isnt there it cant fix it. so it will redirect the energy elsewhere. hope this helps.
id say take the og do a reschange with just plain phed water see what it does. now that i see it is heat stress, still give it some plain water try and get the plant to transpire faster, if the lower stuff is dieing off, then you may have to cut a few branches off the bottom and lollipop some of the middle lower section, to force the plant to concentrate on the upper bigger buds and you may restore them faster, the plant is not to far gone but you have to keep a close eye on it now for a good couple of days. also the parts of the good leaves that are crispy at the tip you can cut off but leave the green stuff, just cut the tips not the sides. the plant will also try to fix these leaves but if the damaged part isnt there it cant fix it. so it will redirect the energy elsewhere. hope this helps.
- Thread starter
- #50
Berry Knot
New Member
I thought maybe nute lock as well, But they are both in the same reservoir and the GDP doesnt look hardly effected, if at all. From heat stress or nute lock. GDP looks fine.
I did a RES change not yesterday but the day before, thinkin the same thing as you and the OG still has not gotten any better..
PLANT MOISTURE STRESS - HEAT MOISTURE STRESS Symptoms and Solutions
Quite often I hear groans from folks having leaf problems -> “Help, my leaves are cupping and the leaf edges are turning brown!”, or, “My plant's leaf tips are curling down and turning black ....what's wrong?” Unless insect damage has occurred or the plant is suffering from a severe case of calcium deficiency, the plant is trying to tell you that it is water stressed. It's hard to tell *exactly* what the culprit is, and unfortunately the “solution” the grower chooses many times is not the right one. A mis-diagnosis only serves to make matters worse by promoting further decline. I’ll try to cover some of the more common causes that can induce these common symptoms and try to offer a few simple solutions. The ultimate and correct solution is in the hands of the grower.
1. Over-fertilizing - the most common cause of leaf cupping aka leaf margin rolling, leaf margin burn, and leaf tip curl/burn is the overzealous use of too much plant food in relationship to factors such as plant size, vigor and rate of growth. The first unit of a plant to show moisture stress is the leaf at its margins and/or tips, reflected by margin rolling (cupping) or burning. Sometimes copper colored necrotic spots show in the leaf also. A hard, crispy feel to the leaf frequently occurs as well, as opposed to a soft and cool feel of a happy leaf. When you have a high concentration of salts in solution (or in the root medium) compared to lower salinity levels found in the plant’s tissue, water is actually drawn out of the plant across the root gradient in order to fix the ppm imbalance. IOW, this is a natural, osmotic response that serves to equalize salinity levels on both sides of the root’s epidermal gradient. Back off on the amount and/or frequency of plant food. Too much plant food can also burn the roots, especially the sensitive root tips and hairs, which then creates another set of problems such as nutrient deficiencies. A note for the bio folks - as soil dries, the concentration of the remaining salts rises further exacerbating the problem. Leach (flush) your pots once in a while to get rid of excess salts.
2. High Heat - the plant is losing water via it’s leaves faster than what can be replaced by the root system. The leaf responds by leaf margin cupping or rolling (up or down) in order to conserve moisture. A good example is reflected by the appearance of broad-bladed turf grass on a hot summer day, high noon, with low soil moisture levels - the leaf blade will roll in and the grass will take on a dull, greyish-green appearance. Upon sunrise when moisture levels have returned to normal, the leaf blade will be flat. Lower the heat and concentrate on developing a large, robust root system by practicing sound plant culture. An efficient and effective root system will go a long way to prevent heat induced leaf dessication and leaf margin curling by supplying sufficient moisture for good plant health. One short episode of high heat is enough to permanently destroy leaf tissue and cause a general decline in the leaves affected, which often occurs to leaves found at the top of the plant located near HID lamps. The damaged leaf (usually) does not recover, no matter what you do. Bummer in the summer. One can only look to new growth for indications that the problem has been corrected.
3. High Light - yes, it’s true, you can give our faves too much light. Cannabis does not receive full sun from sunrise to sunset in its natural state. It is shaded or given reduced light levels because of adjacent plant material, cloudy conditions, rain, debris and dust collection on the leaf surface, twilight periods of early morning and late afternoon, and light intensity changes caused by a change in the seasons. Too much light mainly serves to bleach out and destroy chlorophyll as opposed to causing leaf cupping, but it often goes hand-in-hand with high heat for indoor growers. Again, back off on the light and concentrate on developing/maintaining an efficient and robust root system. Keep in mind that all but equatorial material receive less light during flowering than during the vegetative stage.
4. Overwatering - this practice only serves to weaken the root system by depriving the roots of proper gas exchange. IOW, the roots are not getting enough oxygen which creates an anerobic condition causing root decline and root rot with the end result showing up as leaf stress, stunted growth, and in severe cases, death. <gasp!> Alot of times folks think the plant is not getting enough plant food (which it can't under such adverse conditions), they add more nutes for a "curative", and just add insult to injury.
5. Underwatering - not only is the plant now stressed due to a low supply of adequate moisture, but carbohydrate production has been greatly compromised (screwed up). Step up the watering frequency, and if need be, organic growers may need to soak the pot from the bottom up until moisture levels reach an even consistency throughout the medium especially with mixes that are heavy in peat. If severe, a little surfactant (liquid Ivory dish soap) added to the drench will help return the organics back to a normal moisture retentive state. If the pot feels light to the lift - it’s time to water. Don’t wait until the soil pulls away from the sides of the pot or leaves droop before you water.
(Contributed by Uncle Ben)
Quite often I hear groans from folks having leaf problems -> “Help, my leaves are cupping and the leaf edges are turning brown!”, or, “My plant's leaf tips are curling down and turning black ....what's wrong?” Unless insect damage has occurred or the plant is suffering from a severe case of calcium deficiency, the plant is trying to tell you that it is water stressed. It's hard to tell *exactly* what the culprit is, and unfortunately the “solution” the grower chooses many times is not the right one. A mis-diagnosis only serves to make matters worse by promoting further decline. I’ll try to cover some of the more common causes that can induce these common symptoms and try to offer a few simple solutions. The ultimate and correct solution is in the hands of the grower.
1. Over-fertilizing - the most common cause of leaf cupping aka leaf margin rolling, leaf margin burn, and leaf tip curl/burn is the overzealous use of too much plant food in relationship to factors such as plant size, vigor and rate of growth. The first unit of a plant to show moisture stress is the leaf at its margins and/or tips, reflected by margin rolling (cupping) or burning. Sometimes copper colored necrotic spots show in the leaf also. A hard, crispy feel to the leaf frequently occurs as well, as opposed to a soft and cool feel of a happy leaf. When you have a high concentration of salts in solution (or in the root medium) compared to lower salinity levels found in the plant’s tissue, water is actually drawn out of the plant across the root gradient in order to fix the ppm imbalance. IOW, this is a natural, osmotic response that serves to equalize salinity levels on both sides of the root’s epidermal gradient. Back off on the amount and/or frequency of plant food. Too much plant food can also burn the roots, especially the sensitive root tips and hairs, which then creates another set of problems such as nutrient deficiencies. A note for the bio folks - as soil dries, the concentration of the remaining salts rises further exacerbating the problem. Leach (flush) your pots once in a while to get rid of excess salts.
2. High Heat - the plant is losing water via it’s leaves faster than what can be replaced by the root system. The leaf responds by leaf margin cupping or rolling (up or down) in order to conserve moisture. A good example is reflected by the appearance of broad-bladed turf grass on a hot summer day, high noon, with low soil moisture levels - the leaf blade will roll in and the grass will take on a dull, greyish-green appearance. Upon sunrise when moisture levels have returned to normal, the leaf blade will be flat. Lower the heat and concentrate on developing a large, robust root system by practicing sound plant culture. An efficient and effective root system will go a long way to prevent heat induced leaf dessication and leaf margin curling by supplying sufficient moisture for good plant health. One short episode of high heat is enough to permanently destroy leaf tissue and cause a general decline in the leaves affected, which often occurs to leaves found at the top of the plant located near HID lamps. The damaged leaf (usually) does not recover, no matter what you do. Bummer in the summer. One can only look to new growth for indications that the problem has been corrected.
3. High Light - yes, it’s true, you can give our faves too much light. Cannabis does not receive full sun from sunrise to sunset in its natural state. It is shaded or given reduced light levels because of adjacent plant material, cloudy conditions, rain, debris and dust collection on the leaf surface, twilight periods of early morning and late afternoon, and light intensity changes caused by a change in the seasons. Too much light mainly serves to bleach out and destroy chlorophyll as opposed to causing leaf cupping, but it often goes hand-in-hand with high heat for indoor growers. Again, back off on the light and concentrate on developing/maintaining an efficient and robust root system. Keep in mind that all but equatorial material receive less light during flowering than during the vegetative stage.
4. Overwatering - this practice only serves to weaken the root system by depriving the roots of proper gas exchange. IOW, the roots are not getting enough oxygen which creates an anerobic condition causing root decline and root rot with the end result showing up as leaf stress, stunted growth, and in severe cases, death. <gasp!> Alot of times folks think the plant is not getting enough plant food (which it can't under such adverse conditions), they add more nutes for a "curative", and just add insult to injury.
5. Underwatering - not only is the plant now stressed due to a low supply of adequate moisture, but carbohydrate production has been greatly compromised (screwed up). Step up the watering frequency, and if need be, organic growers may need to soak the pot from the bottom up until moisture levels reach an even consistency throughout the medium especially with mixes that are heavy in peat. If severe, a little surfactant (liquid Ivory dish soap) added to the drench will help return the organics back to a normal moisture retentive state. If the pot feels light to the lift - it’s time to water. Don’t wait until the soil pulls away from the sides of the pot or leaves droop before you water.
(Contributed by Uncle Ben)
- Thread starter
- #52
Berry Knot
New Member
Thanks Roseman.
Well I decided to cut the OG today Guys. She was getting worse. You could tell she wasnt drinking any water, Branches were flimsy and leaves were drying out. I cut a branch and it was hollow through the middle.
I kept the GDP going by her self, she still looks healthy and put all the lights on her. I plan on going another 3 weeks.
Looks like I got pretty decent yield off the OG. But the buds are nothing like they would have been 3 weeks from now. Looks like I may have around 2 OZs Dry.
Well I decided to cut the OG today Guys. She was getting worse. You could tell she wasnt drinking any water, Branches were flimsy and leaves were drying out. I cut a branch and it was hollow through the middle.
I kept the GDP going by her self, she still looks healthy and put all the lights on her. I plan on going another 3 weeks.
Looks like I got pretty decent yield off the OG. But the buds are nothing like they would have been 3 weeks from now. Looks like I may have around 2 OZs Dry.
Wing King 903
New Member
poor OG 
hope it turns out good still
hope it turns out good still- Thread starter
- #55
Berry Knot
New Member
poor OG
Ya me to, Im just hoping it still turns out to be good smoke. It flowered 7 weeks so it wasnt to far off. They still look great and frosty. But we will see.
Trunk5
New Member
rip. but on the bright side you should have one hell of a head stash.- Thread starter
- #57
Berry Knot
New Member
Yea its sad. I keep tellin myself, You cant have a perfect grow without flaws everytime.. As long as its still decent smoke thats all i care about now.
With the right steps and procedures, (8 step recovery) they could bounce back into perfect healtth. I'd wait two weeks to harvest. Even with unhealthy leaves, the buds can mature.
https://www.420magazine.com/communi...ture-tutorial-sh-kit-diy-9.111069/#post970955
https://www.420magazine.com/communi...ture-tutorial-sh-kit-diy-9.111069/#post970955
- Thread starter
- #59
Berry Knot
New Member
Updated pics. These pics were taken today, Day 46. I plan on harvesting her in 20 days or so. She should bulk up nice in the next 3 weeks with all the lights around her.
The OG kush buds are done hanging and are dry, I jar'd them up today. I got a total of 39 Grams. Not to bad for being 3.5 weeks early.
The OG kush buds are done hanging and are dry, I jar'd them up today. I got a total of 39 Grams. Not to bad for being 3.5 weeks early.
Thanks for sharing the pics. I bet you learned a lot on this grow.
In about two weeks, we hope to get up a Deep Water Culture Contest. Information will be posted on the Deep Water Culture Home Thread here:
Deep Water Culture miss a lot of great discussions and debates about Deep Water Culture on that thread. This week, we saw on that thread that StealthHydro was offering an additional 15% Discount if you used the word MEMORIAL as a coupon. With the Deep Water Culture 10% Discount, that was a great savings. Please visit the HOME thread often to stay alert as to what the Deep Water Culture are up to. MostlyCrazy was nominated for May Member of the Month and I think voting starts today or tomorrow.
In about two weeks, we hope to get up a Deep Water Culture Contest. Information will be posted on the Deep Water Culture Home Thread here:
Deep Water Culture - DWC
Another method of supplying a ratio of Oxygen and nutrients to plants in a reservoir while submerging the root mass in water 24 hours a day
www.420magazine.com
Deep Water Culture miss a lot of great discussions and debates about Deep Water Culture on that thread. This week, we saw on that thread that StealthHydro was offering an additional 15% Discount if you used the word MEMORIAL as a coupon. With the Deep Water Culture 10% Discount, that was a great savings. Please visit the HOME thread often to stay alert as to what the Deep Water Culture are up to. MostlyCrazy was nominated for May Member of the Month and I think voting starts today or tomorrow.
