420 Shades Of Violet: The Journal

So I have been in contact with Advanced Nutrients regarding my deficiencies and they suggested that I raise the nutes to max power in flowering so for next batch I believe that ramping up from day 10-20 and I should be at full potency around day 25 and I'm going adjust the amount of water as well to have a bigger run-off that what I have had so far.

Today has been a massive learning curve in lights positioning and I have done a lot of testing and calculations on both the CFL and the LED.

Here are some thoughts;
The LED that I have is having two sets of lenses, 90 versus 120 degrees. One is for penetration and the other for a bigger spread which would be useful in a scrog or SoG setup. It is supposed to have a footprint of 0.8m2 and when I measure the lux directly beneath the light at 50cm distance it drops massively as soon as I move out of edges of the led housing, this is with 90 degree lenses, which makes me think that the real footprint is not more than 0.6m2 at 50cm distance. The question is now; if I change the lenses from 90 to 120 to cover more m2 will it also affect the PAR rating?

Now in regards to the two 250w CFL that I have (1x 6500k, 1x 2700k) I read that during flowering you should be at about 40.000-50.000 lux and I achieve that at a distance of aprox 10cm to the light. The footprint is as it's hanging now aprox 40cm and at 50cm I had about 1000 lux which basically limits the CFL to in my opinion an awesome choice if you are going to make a mini-scrog or topping where you have all the flowers at basically the same level but you will most likely be limited to one light-bulb per plant for maximum effect which would add up to about 1000W per square meter. Pros? Really easy to manage climate in warm locations and if you hang it on a reflector you could probably manage to cover two plants. Now keep in mind that reflectors for CFL are pretty much useless since they don't have power enough for light to bounce BUT hanging the light horizontally instead of vertically will give you a possible increase of footprint as the bulbs tends to be longer than the width. Cons? Incredibly bothersome if you have alot of plants to have tons of bulbs to manage when you could (for less money) get an awesome HPS with proper ventilation ending up using less power and better light penetration.

Note: having two CFLs of different spectrums at the same time to achieve "full spectrum" is not achievable with lights of this size since the only field where the spectrums actually mix with each other is the 20cm space in between them and does not work unless you put alot of smaller bulbs together as a LED module would work in the same way. This was proven by 3 of my plants stretching almost twice the size compared to the others that were closer to the 6500k.
For a CFL panel I would probably say to keep 1/3 of the rig with 2700k's and 2/3 6000k during veg and switch during flower.

Now for my current setup I will see how it goes and when I have a moment I would probably go for a 600w HPS for winter and keep the LED in the smaller tent for a mother or vegging maybe a propagator for clones and stick the 6500k cfl in there.




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Some pictures from today

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This is the one that I topped at 3rd node. Got the CFL at 45.000 lux.
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This one I am not sure if to just throw it out or to keep on feeding it and see what happens:
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Today has been a good day! After 9 days of drying I decided to test some of the buds from the first batch. Still a bit itchy in the throat and the high is very intense but definetly happy with my first crop!

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The bottom of the plants felt decently dry and I was anxious to get them going on the new feeding schedule so now I gave them 12-12-12 grow/micro/bloom and 6-6 voodoo juice and b52 on 6L of water. Took real good care of them today and all of them had a really good run-off which I soaked up with sponges until no more water was running. Changed the hours to 18/6 to see if I have some better root development than last time.

You can really get anidea from the picture how big the footprint of the led vs cfl is. I have tried to maximise the use of the light as much as possible but going for favorising the topped one and making sure that all buds are within 40000lux from the CFL.
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Okay so decided to start doing 2 feedings per week; one with nutes and one without. Now I am kinda feeding as I see that it may be time and I am making a mess with nutes values as the nutrition calculator I am using from Advanced Nutrients is showing numbers on a weekly base. Plus that the veg option isn't made for autos either...

Anyone got a good feeding schedule using AN G.M.B Perfect Ph combo with autos?

Today I have been checking out the deficiencies that I have seen but none the wiser I decided to just keep up with the schedule plan and see what happens. Not stressed out about it thanks to the prior plants haha! If I can smoke that then these plants will be better for sure even with deficiencies!

No idea whats going on here, the rest of the plant looks great though!
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And this baby has been a bit too close to the CFL today I believe:
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So yes, next seeds will be in the ground sometime around mid-february. Wanna sit down soon and start writing down a plan and lessons learned hehe.

Peace!

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Been in contact with Advanced Nutrients regarding my feeding and deficiencies. It has been a good week all in all and got alot of things down on paper to make a kind of guide that I am going to attempt to follow on my next crop.

Loads of thoughts haha:
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And with some excel skills magic happens:
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I am not sure if I am onto something here without knowing so myself but I believe that I have read or seen somewhere that EC should be at 0.0 and then you're adding nutrients it pushes up the EC and that it should peak at about 0.03 (or something like that) which kind of coincides with my schedule as well..

Any inputs?

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Yesterday was feeding day and I also got alot of questions answered by both nutrients and LED manufacturer. The latter somewhat confusing stating that using veg/full cycle mode wont make any difference to the plant growth, Id like to beg the difference but maybe they didn't understand what type of crop it is :))

Did some trimmer of the lower branches, removed dead leafes and mini flowers that wont get any light anyway due to penetration.

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Hi Fingolito! You're grow is looking great! Just subbed...

I'll be curious to hear what's causing that peculiar leaf discoloration.
Hi Timmy! Thanks! The deficiencies is mainly caused by me being a newb and trying to figure out how to distribute the nutrients properly. :))

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Hey, nice canopy you got going there. The earlier rust dots looked likr a calmag def or ph lockout. You use a calmag supplement? Not sure abouy the second one, looks like a nute burn but could be from a ph issue or lockout as well. You try a flush? Good way to reset your nute levels so you can get them on the new regiment. :passitleft:

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Hey, nice canopy you got going there. The earlier rust dots looked likr a calmag def or ph lockout. You use a calmag supplement? Not sure abouy the second one, looks like a nute burn but could be from a ph issue or lockout as well. You try a flush? Good way to reset your nute levels so you can get them on the new regiment. :passitleft:

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Thanks! I am using advanced nutrients ph perfect, but since their nutrient calculator is meant for photo sensitive plants I have been working on making a new schedule that works for my autos so it's a kinda trial and fail haha. From what I have seen my plants in both batches I have done starts to show deficiencies around day 25 which is when they are doing a massive stretch vertically. First time around I fed way too much nutrients and this time too little so after weeks of correspondence with their customer service I've come up with a plan that I wanna use on my next batch.

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Great inputs thanks so much and happy new year!



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Nice, yeah i use fox farms, im not too familiar with AN. Looks like you got it all planned out good. So the ph perfect means you dont have to adjust or measure the ph then? All my grows so far i end up with leaves dying with rust spots after i switch to flower. Had to flush to fix it, planning to just flush when i switch over next time.

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Nice, yeah i use fox farms, im not too familiar with AN. Looks like you got it all planned out good. So the ph perfect means you dont have to adjust or measure the ph then? All my grows so far i end up with leaves dying with rust spots after i switch to flower. Had to flush to fix it, planning to just flush when i switch over next time.

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Yes exactly, so the ph perfect grow version sets ph to 5.5 during veg and 6.2 during flowering. They do recommend a minimum of 10-15% run-off with every feeding which I guess is to oxygenate the soil as much as possible.

I am using the hobbyist level of AN Grow/Micro/Bloom 3 part Ph perfect system. I think that I will move onto their higher hierarchy products as soon as the wallet allows though, they're not very expensive but I am also looking into getting a smaller tent to use for vegging and the nutes will have to wait some weeks more haha.

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Thats pretty cool, ill have to check it out, thx. I know if they arent organic ferts you get salt build up which the extra runoff and flushes prevent lockout.

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This wasone of their early responses to my inquiries hehe (they do have great customer support i must say)
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Not alot of action today, first day of the new year. Tomorrow will be feeding day and first time adding Advanced Nutrients Big Bud to the schedule so gonna go to the store to get some (I hope that they're open .)

I've come to peace with the two CFL's that i was using and decided to remove them, thinking of getting a 60x60x140 tent for vegging and use the 80x80x160 for flowering with the LED. I am unsure if using the LED for veg or flower is the best, my thoughts goes to CFL for veg since the fluorescent lights lack alot in penetration.

Also been watching videos on Advanced Nutrients Sensi A+B Perfect PH and their organic nutrients. Very interesting stuff!

Happy new year to everyone and let's make this one sticky and sweet!

.

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Hey, happy new year. :cheer: Im an hps man myself so i cant help to much on the light decision. I would say put your strongest light in the flower tent. Just Not sure which that is lol. Looking good in there though. :goodjob: :thumb:

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Hey, happy new year. :cheer: Im an hps man myself so i cant help to much on the light decision. I would say put your strongest light in the flower tent. Just Not sure which that is lol. Looking good in there though. :goodjob: :thumb:

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I believe the light with the strongest par rating would be the best for flower.

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Today was feeding day and boy were the girls thirsty!

So in went 1.2L H20 with Grow-Micro-Bloom base plus Voodoo juice and first introduction to Big Bud at 100% strength. I will do two feedings this week so nutes are separated 50/50 in each. Already starting to see loads of little crystals on the leafes so happy days!

I had a 10% total run-off with a 6,5Ph. Not sure if that's good or bad, i have been feeding at 6.2 ph each time except at the start when I lowered it to 5,5.

Any inputs?

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Been checking out information regarding PAR rating and I have to say.. its a rabbits hole haha! I decided to lower my LED to 30 cm top-canope as per the email received by the manufacturer on the subject stated it virtually impossible to burn a mature plant with LED and suggested getting closer than the 50cm tgat i had heard before. I moved down everything a bit to 30cm beteen lamp and canope and I can immediately see a difference in light intensity. I tried to avoid having any bud in the dead center where the highest PAR values are read and hopefully I can achieve a move even growth at the sides.

Been checking out some COB LED bulbs that looks really cool, was thinking about adding two of the 55W ones that are full spectrum with IR + UV on the next crop. Has anyone used them yet?

Happy holidays!

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