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Fingolito
New Member
So I have been in contact with Advanced Nutrients regarding my deficiencies and they suggested that I raise the nutes to max power in flowering so for next batch I believe that ramping up from day 10-20 and I should be at full potency around day 25 and I'm going adjust the amount of water as well to have a bigger run-off that what I have had so far.
Today has been a massive learning curve in lights positioning and I have done a lot of testing and calculations on both the CFL and the LED.
Here are some thoughts;
The LED that I have is having two sets of lenses, 90 versus 120 degrees. One is for penetration and the other for a bigger spread which would be useful in a scrog or SoG setup. It is supposed to have a footprint of 0.8m2 and when I measure the lux directly beneath the light at 50cm distance it drops massively as soon as I move out of edges of the led housing, this is with 90 degree lenses, which makes me think that the real footprint is not more than 0.6m2 at 50cm distance. The question is now; if I change the lenses from 90 to 120 to cover more m2 will it also affect the PAR rating?
Now in regards to the two 250w CFL that I have (1x 6500k, 1x 2700k) I read that during flowering you should be at about 40.000-50.000 lux and I achieve that at a distance of aprox 10cm to the light. The footprint is as it's hanging now aprox 40cm and at 50cm I had about 1000 lux which basically limits the CFL to in my opinion an awesome choice if you are going to make a mini-scrog or topping where you have all the flowers at basically the same level but you will most likely be limited to one light-bulb per plant for maximum effect which would add up to about 1000W per square meter. Pros? Really easy to manage climate in warm locations and if you hang it on a reflector you could probably manage to cover two plants. Now keep in mind that reflectors for CFL are pretty much useless since they don't have power enough for light to bounce BUT hanging the light horizontally instead of vertically will give you a possible increase of footprint as the bulbs tends to be longer than the width. Cons? Incredibly bothersome if you have alot of plants to have tons of bulbs to manage when you could (for less money) get an awesome HPS with proper ventilation ending up using less power and better light penetration.
Note: having two CFLs of different spectrums at the same time to achieve "full spectrum" is not achievable with lights of this size since the only field where the spectrums actually mix with each other is the 20cm space in between them and does not work unless you put alot of smaller bulbs together as a LED module would work in the same way. This was proven by 3 of my plants stretching almost twice the size compared to the others that were closer to the 6500k.
For a CFL panel I would probably say to keep 1/3 of the rig with 2700k's and 2/3 6000k during veg and switch during flower.
Now for my current setup I will see how it goes and when I have a moment I would probably go for a 600w HPS for winter and keep the LED in the smaller tent for a mother or vegging maybe a propagator for clones and stick the 6500k cfl in there.
Sent from my SM-G935F using 420 Magazine Mobile App
Today has been a massive learning curve in lights positioning and I have done a lot of testing and calculations on both the CFL and the LED.
Here are some thoughts;
The LED that I have is having two sets of lenses, 90 versus 120 degrees. One is for penetration and the other for a bigger spread which would be useful in a scrog or SoG setup. It is supposed to have a footprint of 0.8m2 and when I measure the lux directly beneath the light at 50cm distance it drops massively as soon as I move out of edges of the led housing, this is with 90 degree lenses, which makes me think that the real footprint is not more than 0.6m2 at 50cm distance. The question is now; if I change the lenses from 90 to 120 to cover more m2 will it also affect the PAR rating?
Now in regards to the two 250w CFL that I have (1x 6500k, 1x 2700k) I read that during flowering you should be at about 40.000-50.000 lux and I achieve that at a distance of aprox 10cm to the light. The footprint is as it's hanging now aprox 40cm and at 50cm I had about 1000 lux which basically limits the CFL to in my opinion an awesome choice if you are going to make a mini-scrog or topping where you have all the flowers at basically the same level but you will most likely be limited to one light-bulb per plant for maximum effect which would add up to about 1000W per square meter. Pros? Really easy to manage climate in warm locations and if you hang it on a reflector you could probably manage to cover two plants. Now keep in mind that reflectors for CFL are pretty much useless since they don't have power enough for light to bounce BUT hanging the light horizontally instead of vertically will give you a possible increase of footprint as the bulbs tends to be longer than the width. Cons? Incredibly bothersome if you have alot of plants to have tons of bulbs to manage when you could (for less money) get an awesome HPS with proper ventilation ending up using less power and better light penetration.
Note: having two CFLs of different spectrums at the same time to achieve "full spectrum" is not achievable with lights of this size since the only field where the spectrums actually mix with each other is the 20cm space in between them and does not work unless you put alot of smaller bulbs together as a LED module would work in the same way. This was proven by 3 of my plants stretching almost twice the size compared to the others that were closer to the 6500k.
For a CFL panel I would probably say to keep 1/3 of the rig with 2700k's and 2/3 6000k during veg and switch during flower.
Now for my current setup I will see how it goes and when I have a moment I would probably go for a 600w HPS for winter and keep the LED in the smaller tent for a mother or vegging maybe a propagator for clones and stick the 6500k cfl in there.
Sent from my SM-G935F using 420 Magazine Mobile App