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Grower Z
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And here are the rest of the babies, transplanted into the FOF-30 mix today. Those are three black domina cuttings on the right side of the top shelf.
Another Grow Thread (Organics, Conventional and OC+)
- Thread starter Grower Z
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And here are the rest of the babies, transplanted into the FOF-30 mix today. Those are three black domina cuttings on the right side of the top shelf.
loving it bro
I just orderd the starter plus, ive been trying to find some for some time now but at the end i order it off line for $13.00, sucks but from what ive seen on the web is as good as it gets. and it will be perfect for my DM Red bottle that has no Cal in it.
from what i have read you feed it 1 a month right?
that soil looks like some great stuff
I just orderd the starter plus, ive been trying to find some for some time now but at the end i order it off line for $13.00, sucks but from what ive seen on the web is as good as it gets. and it will be perfect for my DM Red bottle that has no Cal in it. from what i have read you feed it 1 a month right?
that soil looks like some great stuff
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Grower Z
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Hi IB, thanks for stopping by.
On the package of the Bio-tone starter plus it actually says that for maintenance of established plants to use one of their specific plant tone products. I think it's because those don't contain the Endor or Ectomycorrhizal Fungi...
And on the Citrus-tone label it says, "With frequent watering of potted plants, nutrients may be lost and more frequent application may be required. Feed every 60 days late winter to fall."
I am using it in concert with the OC+ and looking at a total lifetime of about 3.5 months. AT some point, top dressing of one or the other might be necessary.
On the package of the Bio-tone starter plus it actually says that for maintenance of established plants to use one of their specific plant tone products. I think it's because those don't contain the Endor or Ectomycorrhizal Fungi...
And on the Citrus-tone label it says, "With frequent watering of potted plants, nutrients may be lost and more frequent application may be required. Feed every 60 days late winter to fall."
I am using it in concert with the OC+ and looking at a total lifetime of about 3.5 months. AT some point, top dressing of one or the other might be necessary.
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Grower Z
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And I finally figured out how to get the transplanted babies on the shelf around my 600w HPS that's not currently in use. I'm trying to get a perpetual, four station harvest going... more photos tonight
i was reading somewhere that with the starter plus feed before transplanting and if wanted continue every month.
to me it seems it would be good to add every month for tons of micro life in the medium. then i can also enjoy the benefit of the Cal in it also. so kill 2 birds with one stone right?
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Grower Z
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Temperatures have been in the low to mid 70s in all of my rooms lately during daylight hours. Since the transplant, I backed off of using the fish ferts hoping the OC+ would take over, but there has been some lower yellowing on a few of the plants. I think I should have used more OC+ (this time it was the "low" amount). So I'm going back to watering with Alaska Fish or Neptune's Harvest, sometimes with molasses. Also the FOF-30 is holding more water than I had imagined...
Because of the timing, I won't be able to take a photo of first group of transplants until next weekend, but might be able to get the second group tomorrow night.
Because of the timing, I won't be able to take a photo of first group of transplants until next weekend, but might be able to get the second group tomorrow night.
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- #28
Grower Z
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I've started using this to help me keep track of things...
https://www.vertex42.com/calendars/pdfs/simple-weekly-planner.pdf
https://www.vertex42.com/calendars/pdfs/simple-weekly-planner.pdf
I went to Orchard Supply last night, looking for Bio-tone Plus. They had it....but I chose Tomato Tone.
I chose this for a couple reasons:
1.)I'm going to be mixing FFOF with FF Light Warrior. The latter is loaded with endo/ecto fungi. The Tomato tone lacks those, but has a very good nutrient profile to be used in concert with OC+.
2.)20 pound bag.....19.99.
3.)I'll water with compost tea from time to time, along with molasses, so there really isn't an issue about the micro herd in the soil. It should be booming.
I'm also going to add worm castings and Malibu Compost. It should work very well!
I chose this for a couple reasons:
1.)I'm going to be mixing FFOF with FF Light Warrior. The latter is loaded with endo/ecto fungi. The Tomato tone lacks those, but has a very good nutrient profile to be used in concert with OC+.
2.)20 pound bag.....19.99.
3.)I'll water with compost tea from time to time, along with molasses, so there really isn't an issue about the micro herd in the soil. It should be booming.
I'm also going to add worm castings and Malibu Compost. It should work very well!
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Grower Z
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Doc, I kind of like the nutrient ratios in the Citrus-Tone best, but am never going to find that around here...Maybe they would special order. Similarly it doesn't have the endo & ecti fungi.
One of the reasons for taking notes is to compare the rate of growth in various stages to my usual coir/Peters hydro drain to waste setup...
One of the reasons for taking notes is to compare the rate of growth in various stages to my usual coir/Peters hydro drain to waste setup...
NCDude
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Ill be checking in...thanks
They had the citrus here. Specifically, what did you like better about it?
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- #33
Grower Z
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While it does have less Ca, it has more N and more K too.
I'm not sure it really matters though. As we've said previously, it's more the soil food web action that we're going for with these food sources in addition to the OC+.
I'm not sure it really matters though. As we've said previously, it's more the soil food web action that we're going for with these food sources in addition to the OC+.
Help me out with my logic....
I chose the tomato version because it had more CA and less N....due to the OC+. Nearly the opposite of your reasoning.
I like being on the same page as you.....what am I missing?
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Grower Z
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I see what you did in terms of sort of adding the numbers from the two fertilizer sources together. Maybe that's the best way to do it. I honestly have no idea because we're factoring in different rates of release, etc. You know it's a heck of a lot of easier to mix up a reservoir with Peters + Calcinit + Epsom and have utmost confidence in the ppm numbers, etc.
Hmmmmm. I see what you mean about that being easier, at least at first.
I'm trying to get a soil recipe that I can duplicate easily, in which case you don't get much easier than pouring dirt into a bucket and adding water.
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- #37
Grower Z
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The more I think about it Doc, the more I think Setting Sun and Irish are onto something with the combination of Dynamite OG (10-2-8) with the OC+. There are no fungi and bacteria, so just in terms of the ratios. I wish there was a CRF or SRF with higher K than N for bloom applications, but what are you going to do? The one with the best ratio amongst all of the companies might be the Dynamite blue label, but it's supposed to last for up to 9 months. Tell me about this Great White product. Is it a powder or a liquid?
It's an overpriced root inoculate. That's all. You could do much better with some good old compost tea.....my opinion of course. The "Great White" people would certainly disagree.
As for ratio's....I'm no so sure it matter much once the plants are able to get exactly what they need....without having too much of once thing of another.
I keep coming back to my friends vegetable garden, which is exquisite in every way. It's a marvel.
His secret? Micronutes, epsom salts, 15-15-15 NPK fed every week. The soil was amended with gypsum.
Every single plant has lush foliage, lot's of fruit.....great taste. I think most of our troubles are unique to small containers and a tendency to push the plants to the limits.
On the other hand, your concentration on bacteria/fungi in the root zone, with the organic matter to feed them is....imo, the key to really exquisite pot.
Again, this is merely my opinion....but what we're seeing with Irish and SS isn't so much an NPK blend that is perfect, but a release rate from the CRF's that is optimal at the temps they're experiencing....especially in the case of Irish.
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- #39
Grower Z
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I started some more Blue Haze seedlings tonight.
This time the mix is cocopeat with very rough measurements, perhaps 5-10% each of Turface MVP and Earth Worm Castings. Turface MVP wicks water very well, has a small CEC, has a higher total pore space than perlite, but also holds more water and is much closer in particle size to the coco. I use it in the wick cloner too (same design Munki posted but with a 3rd container for a lid).
This time the mix is cocopeat with very rough measurements, perhaps 5-10% each of Turface MVP and Earth Worm Castings. Turface MVP wicks water very well, has a small CEC, has a higher total pore space than perlite, but also holds more water and is much closer in particle size to the coco. I use it in the wick cloner too (same design Munki posted but with a 3rd container for a lid).
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Grower Z
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It seems there a lot of soil conditioner type products on the market if we need to supplement or use alongside other CRFs or SRFs. And the Great White is damned expensive. But like you Doc I've got the ingredients for an AACT. Meals, Guanos, Molasses, Neptune's Harvest, EWC, Humic acid...
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