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Bio char
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seaofgreen18
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seaofgreen18
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Stratiolaelaps scimitus (formerly Hypoaspis miles) is a small (0.5 mm) light brown mite that lives in the top 1⁄2 inch (13 mm) layer of soil. As a natural predator of fungus gnat pupae and of the snail parasite Riccardoella limacum it is used by gardeners and snail breeders for biological pest control. Stratiolaelaps scimitus is also commonly used by reptile, amphibian and invertebrate keepers as a preventative or reactive measure against grain mites and reptile mites. Whereas most mite treatments are based on synthetic chemicals, predatory mites are used as a biological method of preventing and curing mite infestations.[1]
Stratiolaelaps scimitus and the similar species, S. aculiefer are soil-dwelling, predatory mites. Stratiolaelaps mites feed on fungus gnats, springtails, thrips pupae, and other small insects in the soil. The mite is 0.5 mm (1⁄50 in) long and light-brown in color. It inhabits the top 1⁄2 inch (13 mm) layer of soil. Females lay eggs in the soil which hatch into nymphs in 1 to 2 days. Nymphs develop into adults in 5 to 6 days. The lifecycle takes approximately 7 to 11 days. Both nymphs and adults feed on soil-inhabiting pests, consuming up to 5 prey per day. They may survive by feeding on algae and/or plant debris when insects are unavailable. Both males and females are present, but males are smaller and rarely seen.
Stratiolaelaps is well adapted to moist conditions in greenhouses in a variety of growing media, but does not tolerate standing water. Hypoaspis is currently used in greenhouses for control of fungus gnats. It feeds on fungus gnat eggs and small larvae and is most effective when applied before fungus gnat populations become established or when populations are low. It has been successfully used in bedding plant production, potted plants, and poinsettia stock plants. Stratiolaelaps will also attack thrips pupae in the soil, but cannot be relied on alone for thrips control in a commercial greenhouse. It may, however, enhance biological control when used in conjunction with predators feeding on thrips on the foliage. In small-scale experiments this mite reduced emergence of adult thrips to about 30% of that in controls.
| Synonyms | |
|---|---|
| Binomial name | |
| Scientific classification | |
| Stratiolaelaps scimitus | |
| Stratiolaelaps scimitus | |
| Kingdom: | Animalia |
| Phylum: | Arthropoda |
| Class: | Arachnida |
| Subclass: | Acari |
| Order: | Mesostigmata |
| Family: | Laelapidae |
| Genus: | Stratiolaelaps |
| Species: | S. scimitus |
| Stratiolaelaps scimitus Berlese, 1892 | |
| Hypoaspis miles (Berlese) |
Stratiolaelaps is well adapted to moist conditions in greenhouses in a variety of growing media, but does not tolerate standing water. Hypoaspis is currently used in greenhouses for control of fungus gnats. It feeds on fungus gnat eggs and small larvae and is most effective when applied before fungus gnat populations become established or when populations are low. It has been successfully used in bedding plant production, potted plants, and poinsettia stock plants. Stratiolaelaps will also attack thrips pupae in the soil, but cannot be relied on alone for thrips control in a commercial greenhouse. It may, however, enhance biological control when used in conjunction with predators feeding on thrips on the foliage. In small-scale experiments this mite reduced emergence of adult thrips to about 30% of that in controls.
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seaofgreen18
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WHAT ARE NEMATODES?Stratiolaelaps scimitus (formerly Hypoaspis miles) is a small (0.5 mm) light brown mite that lives in the top 1⁄2 inch (13 mm) layer of soil. As a natural predator of fungus gnat pupae and of the snail parasite Riccardoella limacum it is used by gardeners and snail breeders for biological pest control. Stratiolaelaps scimitus is also commonly used by reptile, amphibian and invertebrate keepers as a preventative or reactive measure against grain mites and reptile mites. Whereas most mite treatments are based on synthetic chemicals, predatory mites are used as a biological method of preventing and curing mite infestations.[1]
Stratiolaelaps scimitus and the similar species, S. aculiefer are soil-dwelling, predatory mites. Stratiolaelaps mites feed on fungus gnats, springtails, thrips pupae, and other small insects in the soil. The mite is 0.5 mm (1⁄50 in) long and light-brown in color. It inhabits the top 1⁄2 inch (13 mm) layer of soil. Females lay eggs in the soil which hatch into nymphs in 1 to 2 days. Nymphs develop into adults in 5 to 6 days. The lifecycle takes approximately 7 to 11 days. Both nymphs and adults feed on soil-inhabiting pests, consuming up to 5 prey per day. They may survive by feeding on algae and/or plant debris when insects are unavailable. Both males and females are present, but males are smaller and rarely seen.
Synonyms Binomial name Scientific classification Stratiolaelaps scimitus 
Stratiolaelaps scimitus Kingdom: Animalia Phylum: Arthropoda Class: Arachnida Subclass: Acari Order: Mesostigmata Family: Laelapidae Genus: Stratiolaelaps Species: S. scimitus Stratiolaelaps scimitus
Berlese, 1892Hypoaspis miles (Berlese)
Stratiolaelaps is well adapted to moist conditions in greenhouses in a variety of growing media, but does not tolerate standing water. Hypoaspis is currently used in greenhouses for control of fungus gnats. It feeds on fungus gnat eggs and small larvae and is most effective when applied before fungus gnat populations become established or when populations are low. It has been successfully used in bedding plant production, potted plants, and poinsettia stock plants. Stratiolaelaps will also attack thrips pupae in the soil, but cannot be relied on alone for thrips control in a commercial greenhouse. It may, however, enhance biological control when used in conjunction with predators feeding on thrips on the foliage. In small-scale experiments this mite reduced emergence of adult thrips to about 30% of that in controls.
Nematodes are unsegmented roundworms, different from earthworms and other familiar worms that are segmented (annelids) or in some cases flattened and slimy (flatworms). Many kinds of nematodes are found in Florida soil. Most nematodes are beneficial, feeding on bacteria, fungi, or other microscopic organisms, and some may be used as biological control organisms to help manage important insect pests. However, plant-parasitic nematodes (Figure 1) feed on live plants and are detrimental to the garden.
Plant-parasitic nematodes are very small, and most can only be seen using a microscope (Figure 2). All plant-parasitic nematodes have a stylet or mouth-spear that is similar in structure and function to a hypodermic needle (Figure 3). The stylet is used to puncture plant cells and then inject digestive juices and ingest plant fluids. Most of the plant-parasitic nematodes that are important in vegetable gardens feed on plant roots. Some plant-parasitic nematodes, called ectoparasites, remain in the soil during their entire lifecycle and feed by inserting only their stylet into the root (Figure 4). Other nematodes enter the plant with part or all of their body and are called endoparasites. Some endoparasites, called migratory endoparasites, burrow around inside the root (Figure 5). Other endoparasites, called sedentary endoparasites, establish permanent feeding sites inside the root and remain in one place. As it matures, a sedentary endoparasite's body changes shape and adult females are usually swollen (Figure 6).
Figure 2. Size of a lance nematode (one of the larger plant-parasitic nematodes) compared to a human hair.
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seaofgreen18
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After feedingnotice this picture to the other picture I put up the saw dust is about gone and the food to so next time it'll be shredded cardboard for carbon and bedding in one half and food in the other half I usually feed about every 3 days or so 1/2 food 1/2 carbon and bedding
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seaofgreen18
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The moist cardbord is the whole layer I misprinted above and only half foodAfter feeding
BuzzzD
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That was a heavy read - I will have to do it a couple of times and see if I retain any info. I couldn't pronouns many of the names!!
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- #168
seaofgreen18
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Its all good I had to that's why I bought the book for reference
what do you think? Good information??
BuzzzD
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Great info - I've been going organic for a couple of years now. Every year I get a bale of the HP mycorrhiza mix and usually mix 1/3 myco. 1/3 old soil mix and 1/3worm casting.
I'm not sure I will every remember all the stuff that is going on in the soil but I hope that by putting all the right stuff in there it works out well.
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- #170
seaofgreen18
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It will! keep the right biology in there and keep them happy and they'll do the work for you I use the promix like you but I use it straight if I buy any I use my old soil old roots and all I'll pick out the big stuff but usually they get broke down to when I reammend I do a 4×8 bed in the basement have had the same soil for 3 years this month still getting good product out of it
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seaofgreen18
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I do need to get it tested though it's been awhile see what's going on in there
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seaofgreen18
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Dont take them long to find food. The white you see is oyster shell flour for grit any type of mineral or small gravel source works for grit I choose oyster shell flour to help keep the ph stable and to give slow release calcium
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seaofgreen18
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Rove Beetles In Gardens: Is A Rove Beetle Good Or Bad Beneficial Garden Friends By: Jackie Carroll Image by Henrik_L Rove beetles are predatory insects that can become your partner in controlling pest insects in the garden. Find rove beetle facts and information in this article. Read on to learn more. What are Rove Beetles? Rove beetles are members of the Staphylinidae family, which contains thousands of North American species. They range in length, though are typically about an inch (2.5 cm.) long. Rove beetles have the interesting habit of raising up the end of their bodies like a scorpion when disturbed or frightened, but they can’t sting or bite (they do, however, produce pederin, a toxin which can cause contact dermatitis if handled). Although they have wings and can fly, they usually prefer to run along the ground. What Do Rove Beetles Eat? Rove beetles feed on other insects and sometimes on rotting vegetation. Rove beetles in gardens feed on small insects and mites that infest plants, as well insects in the soil and on plant roots. Both the immature larvae and the adult beetles prey on other insects. Adult beetles on decaying animal carcasses are feeding on the insects that infest the carcass rather than the flesh of the dead animal. The life cycle varies from one species to the next, but some larvae enter the pupae or larvae of their prey to feed, emerging a few weeks later as adults. Adult beetles have a large mandible that they use to grasp prey. The Rove Beetle: Good or Bad? Beneficial rove beetles can help eliminate harmful insect larvae and pupae in the garden. Although some species feed on a variety of insects, others target specific pests. For example, members of the Aleochara genus target root maggots. Unfortunately, they usually emerge too late to prevent most of the damage that root maggots cause. The beetles are being reared in Canada and Europe in hopes of releasing them early enough to save important crops. Rove beetles aren’t yet available for release in the United States.
Read more at Gardening Know How: Rove Beetles In Gardens: Is A Rove Beetle Good Or Bad Rove Beetle Facts - What Are Rove Beetles And Are They Friend Or Foe
Read more at Gardening Know How: Rove Beetles In Gardens: Is A Rove Beetle Good Or Bad Rove Beetle Facts - What Are Rove Beetles And Are They Friend Or Foe
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seaofgreen18
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I actually have a picture of a rove beetle catching a fungus gnat I couldn't believe my eyes,he caught it right out of the Air right in front of me right after I put them in the bed they must have been hungry as hell after shipping I have them in my 4×8 bed living soil bed in my basement and in my worm bin they also eat decomposing plant material and they were a GREAT addition to my garden, in summer we try to plant plants that attract benifcial insects and pollenators that's why I steer clear of oils and synthetic pesticides we like having Honey so I use compost teas and benifcial insects for my insect control and you know if you lower bug pressure of harmful insects in the summer outside with benifcial insects and certain plants your likelihood of getting pathogens has been GREATLY REDUCED! Be aware that some benifcial insects don't target just 1 pest like praying mantis they eat anything same goes for dragon flies so when getting benifcial insects try to get the insect's that target certain types of pest not just generalist predator's
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- #175
seaofgreen18
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A good IPM (Integrated pest management) is the only way to go when dealing with bugs and pathegeons and with climate change expect higher humidity levels and hotter longer summer's with up and down temps and either lots of rain or no rain for long periods flash floods more Forest fire's fluctuating weather conditions it SUCK we ALL need to try to help with climate change not just the Corporate world so we are trying to do our part here at my house so that's why I prefer organic farming and the worm bin as opposed to having worms in my containers I can keep my trash out of the landfill so it doesn't turn into methane .I don't think ppl realize or just don't care that when the permafrost melts from warmer temps all the time the decomposed materials in the permafrost from thousands of years start to release methane and carbon in the atmosphere and that's just one of the problems we face with climate change sure the earth has it's cycles but not every 50-100 years compared to every 10,000 there again just my opinion
BuzzzD
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seaofgreen18
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seaofgreen18
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I come walking into my room after I put those in the bed and The one I seen in action was chasing the fungus gnat in the air flying in circles I was like WTF is that!! I thought well I'll stand here and watch and see what happens Karanja oil sprayer in hand as I watched the rove beetle grabbed the fungus gnat with it's hind legs right out of the air and landed on the side of the bed it was on the rove beetles back it was pinned there it crawled into the bed to eat it Coolest thing I ever seen that was my first experience with beneficial insects I was HOOKED! I thought I wasted my money when I got those boy was I WRONG!!That's AWESOME
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seaofgreen18
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Here's another good one for outside.
Brown lacewing adult. Photo: David
Lacewings are beneficial insects in a garden
- Lacewings are popular, commercially available beneficial insects. Green lacewings are the most common, but brown lacewings are also available. Distribute eggs or larvae evenly around infested plants to minimize cannibalism and to maximize their usefulness as biological control organisms.
- Lacewing adults are delicate, green or brown, with small heads, and large eyes. The wings are longer than the body, transparent, with a fine network of veins, and are about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch long.
- The larvae are alligator-like in appearance, spindle shaped, yellow to brown in color, and mottled. They have spines along their sides and long curved mouthparts (mandibles).
- Eggs of lacewings are often found in great numbers on plants infested with prey such as aphids or mites. Eggs of green lacewings are laid on the end of long, fine stalks, and are often attached to leaves or twigs.
- Lacewings are excellent predators of aphids and other small insects.
- Hatching larvae will eat anything they encounter, size permitting, including siblings.
- They eat aphids, lace bugs, caterpillars, larvae of some beetles, insect eggs, and mites.
- Ants foraging on plants are a major predator of lacewing eggs and larvae.
Brown lacewing adult. Photo: David
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seaofgreen18
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@Hayron1088 here's how I screen my castings some folks here have a better more efficient way but this is how I do it for now the square one is a 1/8" metal screen and the store bought round is 1/4" If they are to damp to screen through the 1/8" screen make sure all the worms are back home and let it sit out till it'll screen what's left over in the that won't go through I put back in the bin Id rather have my cacoons in the bin they have more of a chance to hatch there are certain conditions where cacoons can hatch it's hard to keep that in a container or a bed that's all I'm saying
