Critique my new grow room build, please

[Senjinn]

Hello, I'm not sure if a thread like this is approved of or not, or if there is a better place for it. If it's okay, I'd like some more experienced growers to take a look at the equipment I'm going to use, and point out anything you see that may be lacking, may have better options for, something I'm missing entirely, something I can get cheaper, etc. Let me know if I'm not allowed to post links to various products, they're all from mostly different sites and am in no way advertising for these people or associated with them.

https://cheaphydroponics.com/store/imported-products/ebb-gro-multi-

$400.00 (ebb-grow 12 bucket system, comes with grow medium)

OZN-Jr Ozone Generator - View All - Cheap Hydroponics, Indoor Gardening Supplies, Hydroponic Supplies - (Powered by CubeCart)

$75.00 (ozone generator)

1000 Watt HPS MH Grow Light System 1000w Digital Dimm | eBay

$260.00 (1000w light assembly w/ the two different types of bulbs & reflector)

Bluelab PPM Pen - pH & TDS Metering - Cheap Hydroponics, Indoor Gardening Supplies, Hydroponic Supplies - (Powered by CubeCart)

$90.00 (ppm pen)

HTG Supply - Checker pH Tester

$54.90 (PH tester and calibrator)

The other items I'll have are the PH up/down solutions, as well as the nutrients I need to put into the water, and a fan to circulate the air in the room.

I want to put foil on the walls in the room, but which is superior? Foylon or Mylar?

The room I want to work with is 125 square feet, 6 1/2 feet high, located in a cold basement. This is a twelve bucket system but I will probably start out with only six plants under my single light.

Basically, have I covered everything, or have I left things out? Do I need to intake new air from outside my basement? I know I will need to vent it out. I'm working on a budget and can't afford a co2 generator/monitor unless it is absolutely crucial.

Any advice/help/suggestions are welcome. Thank you.

 

[exile19]

Mylar is good I know that, but I dont anything about hydro.

 

[lil stinker 420]

your foil puts off more heat then what its worth try just some flat white paint.

 

[BWC BayArea]

Mylar is good. U will also need a hygrometer/thermometer, ducting, at least a single inline fan, a pump action sprayer (to prevent/deal with pests and/or mold), I'm assuming ur bucket system includes a reservoir and the appropriate pumps. An oscillating fan to keep air moving. because its a basement u may need a dehumidifier in certain seasons. U will definitely have to usher old air out and fresh air in. U may also need a submersible heater and/or chiller for ur reservoir as well as a thermometer for it. All I can think of off the top of my head. Take some pics of possible.

 

[BWC BayArea]

Forgot to ask, how many square feet is ur basement? The growing space within it that u plan on using?

 

[Excited2start]

you can get cheaper ppm pens and pen ph testers on amazon.com I got mine for like 20 bucks a piece.

 

[Senjinn]

Mylar is good. U will also need a hygrometer/thermometer, ducting, at least a single inline fan, a pump action sprayer (to prevent/deal with pests and/or mold), I'm assuming ur bucket system includes a reservoir and the appropriate pumps. An oscillating fan to keep air moving. because its a basement u may need a dehumidifier in certain seasons. U will definitely have to usher old air out and fresh air in. U may also need a submersible heater and/or chiller for ur reservoir as well as a thermometer for it. All I can think of off the top of my head. Take some pics of possible.

What's the best way to adjust the humidity of a room? Yes, it does include all of that. I plan on having an intake fan for fresh air, a fan to circulate the air in the room, and a fan to take used air out of the room (is this necessary, or would a simple vent leading out work?)

I do have a dehumidifier. How much do submersible heaters/coolers run, and what is the ideal temperature of the water? Room?

I'm going to wall off an area of the basement 125 sq ft., room is 6 and a half feet tall.


For the intake fan, what do you think of https://cheaphydroponics.com/store/view-all/active-air-inline-fan-4in-165cfm/prod_876.html

For the outtake fan, https://cheaphydroponics.com/store/view-all/dayton-blower-140cfm/prod_150.html

I'd just use a regular fan to circulate the air in the room itself. You think I can get those fans cheaper anywhere else, or is $70.00 around what I should be looking to pay?

 

[Senjinn]

you can get cheaper ppm pens and pen ph testers on amazon.com I got mine for like 20 bucks a piece.

Decent quality? Thank you, I'll check this out.

 

[Senjinn]

your foil puts off more heat then what its worth try just some flat white paint.

My basement is really, really cold. You think that one light and some foil will overdue it? I'm worried about it being too cold.

 

[BWC BayArea]

For in room air circulation a fan like this will do

For exhaust for a medium sized room (8'x10' - 10'x10') I use this S&P 479/419 CFM, inline, fan

It's important to know the square footage of ur growing space in order to find a fan capable of moving air in and out fast enough. I'd say go with a blower around 500 CFM (cubic feet per minute) and u may be able to get away with a passive intake (no fan for intake just a vent. the suction from the exhaust fan will be enough to draw in fresh air). To measure humidity purchase a hygrometer/thermometer. About ur fans. I believe U can get a better deal on a higher rated inline fan. One hundred some odd CFMs would suffice if u were in a 3'x3' or 4'x4' tent. Ur basement is much larger at 125 square feet. Good room temp is 70F-75F. Humidity between 60%-80% in veg, for flower I try to keep RH (relative humidity) between 35%-50%. U can find a submersible heater at an aquarium/pet store fairly cheap. Make sure its capable of heating the volume or water that ur reservoir holds.

 

[ilikebike]

you should consider ditching that ebay ballast and get a light kit through our JD LIGHTING sponsor, they have some 600w and 1000w bundle deals right now, probably for equal or lesser price than you would pay on ebay, and you get customer support and a quality product

 

[Excited2start]

The PH and PPM pens are of decent quality and work well.

 

[Stoned4daze61]

The Ebb & Flow is a good price for $400

Ozone generators are supposed to be a potential health hazard for humans, I would invest in a good carbon filter.

You would need a minimum of two inline fans, one to air cool the light, and the other for an exhaust fan located near the top of your grow room. With passive intake holes at the bottom drawing in fresh air from the negative pressure. I think Valuline is one of the most reasonable inline fans, you can get an 8" 745CFM for under $100

What are your temps? Since you said you're concerned about the cold, you could put a fan speed controller on the fan cooling your light. That way, when it gets colder you can lower the fan speed to allow some heat to be given off the light into your room. You could not air cool your lights and run open hood but that may give off too much heat and then you can't hang the light near as close to the canopy, thus losing valuable lumens.

You said you will probably only start out with 6, I think that is a great idea. A 12 bucket Ebb & flow would be cutting it under one 1000w. It is also better to start out with less plants with this kind of system because since it is Re circulatory and they are all connected, if you have a problem with one plant or the reservoir, it will effect all the plants. Then once you feel more confident, I would go for another 1000w with all 12 buckets. Possibly even a Scrog

For lining your walls, pretty much anything will work. I would say panda film is a tiny step above flat white paint, and I would say mylar is a tiny step above panda film. If money isn't too much of an issue, get the Diamond Film or Orca Film. You can get 100ft for $60-90

I would definitely get a quality PH & PPM meter, cheaper ones will just cause more frustration then they are worth. I would suggest a combo constant meter like the hanna constant or 24-7 nutrient monitor which have probes you stick in your reservoir to display PH/TDS/Temp at all times, this will make life much easier. They are around $200 Or if you don't like the idea of constant monitoring, the hanna combo portable is $160

Your water temp should be fine since water is best at 67-70 degrees because it holds the most dissolved oxygen. With a large reservoir the water will stay cooler, and if your basement has concrete floors it will keep the water even colder. I would get an air pump & stone and place it in the Res or brain bucket to oxygenate the water, and perhaps a small circulation pump in the Res to keep the nutes mixed.

Co2 is definitely not necessary, it is just to let experienced growers get the most out of their plants.

I would suggest investing in a Reverse Osmosis system, you can get one for $100-200. This gives you a very low ppm water which allows more space to add nutrients and a more stable ph

 

[Senjinn]

The Ebb & Flow is a good price for $400

Ozone generators are supposed to be a potential health hazard for humans, I would invest in a good carbon filter.

You would need a minimum of two inline fans, one to air cool the light, and the other for an exhaust fan located near the top of your grow room. With passive intake holes at the bottom drawing in fresh air from the negative pressure. I think Valuline is one of the most reasonable inline fans, you can get an 8" 745CFM for under $100

What are your temps? Since you said you're concerned about the cold, you could put a fan speed controller on the fan cooling your light. That way, when it gets colder you can lower the fan speed to allow some heat to be given off the light into your room. You could not air cool your lights and run open hood but that may give off too much heat and then you can't hang the light near as close to the canopy, thus losing valuable lumens.

You said you will probably only start out with 6, I think that is a great idea. A 12 bucket Ebb & flow would be cutting it under one 1000w. It is also better to start out with less plants with this kind of system because since it is Re circulatory and they are all connected, if you have a problem with one plant or the reservoir, it will effect all the plants. Then once you feel more confident, I would go for another 1000w with all 12 buckets. Possibly even a Scrog

For lining your walls, pretty much anything will work. I would say panda film is a tiny step above flat white paint, and I would say mylar is a tiny step above panda film. If money isn't too much of an issue, get the Diamond Film or Orca Film. You can get 100ft for $60-90

I would definitely get a quality PH & PPM meter, cheaper ones will just cause more frustration then they are worth. I would suggest a combo constant meter like the hanna constant or 24-7 nutrient monitor which have probes you stick in your reservoir to display PH/TDS/Temp at all times, this will make life much easier. They are around $200 Or if you don't like the idea of constant monitoring, the hanna combo portable is $160

Your water temp should be fine since water is best at 67-70 degrees because it holds the most dissolved oxygen. With a large reservoir the water will stay cooler, and if your basement has concrete floors it will keep the water even colder. I would get an air pump & stone and place it in the Res or brain bucket to oxygenate the water, and perhaps a small circulation pump in the Res to keep the nutes mixed.

Co2 is definitely not necessary, it is just to let experienced growers get the most out of their plants.

I would suggest investing in a Reverse Osmosis system, you can get one for $100-200. This gives you a very low ppm water which allows more space to add nutrients and a more stable ph

Wow, thanks for the advice. Constant nutrient monitoring sounds good, I'll have to see if I can fit that into my budget along with the osmosis system.

What size should my inline/exhaust fans be? You said 745m for the inline, is that ideal for a 125 sq ft root?

Yes, I'm going to get a good carbon filter instead of an ozone generator, after researching them a bit more the negatives outweigh the positives. Do you have an example of a good, affordable one?

Thanks again for your time.

 

[Stoned4daze61]

Wow, thanks for the advice. Constant nutrient monitoring sounds good, I'll have to see if I can fit that into my budget along with the osmosis system.

What size should my inline/exhaust fans be? You said 745m for the inline, is that ideal for a 125 sq ft root?

Yes, I'm going to get a good carbon filter instead of an ozone generator, after researching them a bit more the negatives outweigh the positives. Do you have an example of a good, affordable one?

Thanks again for your time.

No it does not need to be that large, I was just referring to how cheap valuline fans are. You should have Your air exchanged 2-3 times every minute, so for 125 sq. ft that would be around 375CFM. The valuline 6" is 435CFM, I would get a fan speed controller to adjust temperatures as well!

I'm not too sure about air cooling larger lights, you might be able to get away with a 4" on a 1000w but I would just get another 6" on a speed controller. That way if you end up purchasing another 1000w later on you could cool them both on a single fan

HTGSupply sells a 6" inline fan & tall boy combo for $195. The fan has a 5 year warranty and is 424CFM!

If you have enough space, Home depot sells adjustable standing oscillating fans for under $25. Or I like the taller tower fans, you can get some for $30-50 and they don't have a huge circular thing taking up space. You could place two across on each corner and that would be more then enough. Or if floorspace is crowded you can get wall mounting oscillating fans from hydro stores or online for $35-80

No problem Man, be sure to post the link of your grow in here when you get it up and running if you do a journal! I would love to watch

 

[Senjinn]

Do inline fans need carbon filters, or just the exhaust?


Should all three fans (both inlines and the exhaust) have timers?

Which ones should run constantly, and which should only run when the lights are on?

 

[Stoned4daze61]

Do inline fans need carbon filters, or just the exhaust?


Should all three fans (both inlines and the exhaust) have timers?

Which ones should run constantly, and which should only run when the lights are on?

If it is pulling air out of your grow room(GR) then it should have a carbon filter. Some people use one fan to do the job of two, in that case it goes

Carbon Filter -> Hood -> another hood (optional) -> inline fan -> exhausting out room

Heres a pic to clarify

Realistically this would work but you will need a much larger fan, one that will exhaust 125 sq. ft. GR, cool a 1000w, and pull through a carbon filter!

Another option would be to get two fans. One to air cool the light (does not need Carbon filter if done correctly) and one for exhaust. You would want to put a cap on one end of the hood so you are not pulling in air from your GR, or you can use ducting to connect the other side of the hood to an intake that pulls fresh air through the hood. If you do not do this then you will need a second carbon filter which is kind of pointless.

Here is a pic to help, this is an ideal GR, I'm just referring to how the lights are air cooled in this picture and the exhaust. It is almost always more efficient/effective if you pull the air through with the fan, rather then pushing.

Doing it either way will only require 1-2 fans. You should be fine with passive intakes since you have negative pressure from the exhaust fan.

If you use the 2 fan scenario, the one that air cools the light should turn off about 20-30 minutes after the light has shut off. The exhaust fan is up to you, it is not necessary to run it all night. I would maybe let it come on for 15-30 minutes every 3-4 hours during lights off.

 

[BWC BayArea]

Stoned,
I'm loving the diagrams. The main thing that I would alter is the fan placement. I would attach the fan to the filter and the ducting to the fan as illustrated. Reason being is very few people have the fan they need for the square footae of the grow space. If the fan is too strong, quite often it will collapse or try to flatten the ducting esp where there are slight (or more) bends/sagging in the ducting. With two hoods attached (hanging adjacent to each other this can cause uneven dustribution of light and or damage to the hoods, glass, lamps, etc. If the fan is just right for the room but it gets too hot or too humid and A/C and/or a dehumidifier is used, when they come on in the room, their fans change the air pressure while they're running. If fans are not strong enough then the grower has heat and/or humidity issues to deal with. I've dealt with these scenarios and thought I'd share. So a recap: filter/scrubber, inline fan, ducting, hood, ducting, *2nd hood optional, ducting to exhaust port. Make sense?

 

[BWC BayArea]

Do inline fans need carbon filters, or just the exhaust?
Which ones should run constantly, and which should only run when the lights are on?

No, they don't necessarily need a filter. If u have an ozone generator or other means of odor control , or perhaps u live in an area where odor isn't a concern, the fans don't need a filter afixed. They are however necessary most often for exhausting stale, oxygen rich, or odiferous air. The exhaust fan should run constantly, or on and off in equal intervals necessary to maintain desired environment levels (i.e. temp and humidity). If a fan is afixed to an aircooled hood it should be on while the lights are on. If the filter and aircooled hoods are all inline (in series) then that fan should remain running because its ur exhaust as well as a cooling fan for lights. Hope we got ur answer covered bro.

 

[Senjinn]

nvm that. Can't find the delete button.