the thing is, if you slow down growth in a fem, it's ok, but in an auto you're killing your harvest...
Same here. Have been using Emilya's watering guide with my autos. Done 16 of them by now (some not harvested yet) and they're all fine, with yields of between 60g and 90g per plant. From what I see most people are having success too, with this watering style.
If it goes to the bottom, good idea. Another method is to use a bamboo stake as a dip stick.
the only difference i could think of is that my soil retains too much water even with perlite, what's a good affordable soil brand that doesn't sponge up too much water?Same here. Have been using Emilya's watering guide with my autos. Done 16 of them by now (some not harvested yet) and they're all fine, with yields of between 60g and 90g per plant. From what I see most people are having success too, with this watering style.
For my upcoming plants, I'm going to try Emilya's modified watering scheme: The Proper Way To Water A Seedling In A Large, Final, Container.
@fatbuds420 : Re. your reply to me, I'm sorry to hear that you've had trouble. I fail to understand how this would stun the plants and produce thumb sized plants, though. You must be doing something different from those of us who get nice plants (autos...) every time, or perhaps you were unlucky with some plants(?) Of course, in the end you gotta do what works for you
why would it slow down growth?? Even successive uppotting can be done, since we all know that we can transplant with zero stress, and after an uppotting plants dont stall, they explode with activity. All this nonsense about autos is marketing hype, designed to sell an inferior product.
That's plausible. I have friends who have had seeds die due to too wet/dense soil. I'm using a cheap peat based soil with some added nutes, compost and perlite, not too tightly packed. Afraid I'm too much of a noob to give more specific soil advice.
Those sticks have stopped me from grabbing the watering can on numerous occasions!!!! They wick the moisture pretty quick and let you know where it's at.
This is the Moisture meter that I use, works just fine for me. Very inexpensive and can be purchased just about anywhere. I wait until the needle is just beginning to touch "RED" dry markings then water as needed.
damn, think i've realized my issue, i was always watering even when i was not supposed to, it feels dry to my finger, by the meters shows wet!
That is very easy to do, and also why the weighing method is quite reliable. You'll soon become calibrated and know exactly what a dry bucket weighs - it becomes second nature after a few plants
still rather use the meter, more accurateThat is very easy to do, and also why the weighing method is quite reliable. You'll soon become calibrated and know exactly what a dry bucket weighs - it becomes second nature after a few plants
Mine works fine when it comes to knowing what's going on in the pot. I have one I've used for years. As Emmie said, it helps determine the water/moisture level, but you have to learn how to interpret the readings. I insert the prongs about half way down inside the pot. If it reads moist, I don't water. If it reads dry, I water. As for the pH and light meters, not so good. The pH meter is actually useless; the light meter is somewhat helpful, but really not needed. The girls will tell you if they're not getting enough light.
This method works, but if your plants are wilting, they're not growing.
