Stltoed
Well-Known Member
Gotcha
DWC autoflower help needed!
- Thread starter 65luke345
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- #42
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- #43
Stltoed
Well-Known Member
First of all EVERYBODY is gonna tell you to turn off your lights and use a flash to take pictures before you post them. It won't hurt anything at this point, but in flower you want to use a flash just after lights out.
So let's think about this... it could be Ph, high temps, too many nutes, too little nutrition, I'm sure there's more.
Probably not this... too much light, air recirculation, humidity, not enough light, etc.
It looks to me like your older leaves are most affected. Nutrient elements are classified in many ways. The one that applies here, is whether or not they are mobile and immobile. Mobile nutrients reside in the older leaves. They are a storage area for nutrients for the future of the plant. You can see after mid flower the larger, older fan leaves turn yellow and die as they are used up. I believe its one of these elements that is too high or too low to make the plant happy.
The mobile nutrients are Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, Magnesium, Molybdenum, Nickel, and sodium. This leaves a ton of stuff to question, but more importantly it knocks out some contenders because of their mobility. It isn't Calcium, zinc, Mangenese, Boron, Cobalt, Selenium, Silicon which are all immobile. Of that you can disregard Calcium, which is the first thing everyone take about. I really cant tell what your leaves look like, but it doesn't matter according to mobility
So the first three that are mobile are the biggies. Are you positive youre feeding correctly?
Heres what i do... i use a 1 gallon milk jug and always premix nutrients in fresh or preferably RO water before dumping it in your res. I do each nutrient seperately, but it works for me. If you ever use 3 part nutrients, or something with micro nutrients in it, put it in first. then give it an hour or two, then add your Calmg and let it mix a while. If you ever decide to use Silica it has to go in FIRST then you NEED to look at the Ph, and adjust if needed. Then do the others. Those three need to be added with care. What this does is makes sure the elements aren't locking each other out.
Nitrogen usually has substantially yellowing leaves before they get crunchy. I don't believe it's nitrogen.
Phosphorus will make crunchy leaves. But other symptoms include blueish green leaves. Dark copper and deep purple colored, blotchy leaves.
Finally... Potassium. I think this is a viable contender. Symptoms include:
Older leaves turn pale, leaf margins and tips get crunchy, excessive branching, weak stems.
I don't believe the rest of the mobile group are contenders because they are trace elements. It's possible. Also, your issue may be an amalgamation of a few problems.
I hope this helps
So let's think about this... it could be Ph, high temps, too many nutes, too little nutrition, I'm sure there's more.
Probably not this... too much light, air recirculation, humidity, not enough light, etc.
It looks to me like your older leaves are most affected. Nutrient elements are classified in many ways. The one that applies here, is whether or not they are mobile and immobile. Mobile nutrients reside in the older leaves. They are a storage area for nutrients for the future of the plant. You can see after mid flower the larger, older fan leaves turn yellow and die as they are used up. I believe its one of these elements that is too high or too low to make the plant happy.
The mobile nutrients are Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, Magnesium, Molybdenum, Nickel, and sodium. This leaves a ton of stuff to question, but more importantly it knocks out some contenders because of their mobility. It isn't Calcium, zinc, Mangenese, Boron, Cobalt, Selenium, Silicon which are all immobile. Of that you can disregard Calcium, which is the first thing everyone take about. I really cant tell what your leaves look like, but it doesn't matter according to mobility
So the first three that are mobile are the biggies. Are you positive youre feeding correctly?
Heres what i do... i use a 1 gallon milk jug and always premix nutrients in fresh or preferably RO water before dumping it in your res. I do each nutrient seperately, but it works for me. If you ever use 3 part nutrients, or something with micro nutrients in it, put it in first. then give it an hour or two, then add your Calmg and let it mix a while. If you ever decide to use Silica it has to go in FIRST then you NEED to look at the Ph, and adjust if needed. Then do the others. Those three need to be added with care. What this does is makes sure the elements aren't locking each other out.
Nitrogen usually has substantially yellowing leaves before they get crunchy. I don't believe it's nitrogen.
Phosphorus will make crunchy leaves. But other symptoms include blueish green leaves. Dark copper and deep purple colored, blotchy leaves.
Finally... Potassium. I think this is a viable contender. Symptoms include:
Older leaves turn pale, leaf margins and tips get crunchy, excessive branching, weak stems.
I don't believe the rest of the mobile group are contenders because they are trace elements. It's possible. Also, your issue may be an amalgamation of a few problems.
I hope this helps
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- #45
The buckets have 18.5 litres of water in 4ml calmag 5ml of flora nova grow thats 50% of grow pot cheaply feed chart humidity is not great sits around 31% but i go in tent every few hours an spray all the walls which increase roughly 20% I have a 600w hps bulb at maximum hieght the ph is around 5.8 I check it once twice a day and i have a 16 oscillating fan an 6 one and also a 6 inch fan pointing towards the light
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- #46
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- #47
Stltoed
Well-Known Member
Good. We can check that off.
So, let's look at Ph. What sort of meter? Brand, model if yyou know it. The solution should always be made by the company who made your meter. There are different scales and different meters use different scales. If you buy these items from the same manufacturer it's not a problem. I recommend Hanna or Blue Lab. I don't buy Millwaukee. These things can get expensive, but if your growing in hydro you need to be able to trust your stuff. Spend a little dough on this, learn how to calibrate it, and check the calibration every month. Also, learn to clean it properly. Once you have this mastered your life will be much easier because if you have a problem you will KNOW it's no Ph
For me there is a gray area here that in my mind.
Stltoed
Well-Known Member
Great pictures. The leaves are lighter than i thought. How much calmg are you putting in by Percentage to the manufacturers recommendation?
Stltoed
Well-Known Member
Happy 420 day. This is my 420 tree.
- Thread starter
- #51
I have been putting 4ml to 18.5 liter of water its advanced nutrients cal mag extra an the ph meter I have is a no brand one its a tri metre tell u the ph temp ppm ec I have growth technology ph solution 7 an 4 is there some other product I could use like does bottle water tell u the ph
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- #52
Stltoed
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- #54
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- #55
That's ph meter an pics from today not as clear today phone was dying so no flashlight I added some flroakleen to it yesterday aswell
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- #56
Stltoed
Well-Known Member
Which post isnt working out?
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- #58
Stltoed
Well-Known Member
Whats with the plant in the second picture? It looks mopey
- Thread starter
- #60
I forgot the wrap the bucket in panda plastic an algae was in there I was sorting the water out when I took the pic
