First CFL Grow Using 30 Watt CFLs

Re: first cfl grow using 30watt cfls

im getting their put it that way, they should start growing a lot quicker now so i should notice more of a difference over the next few days, also berry bomb has just gone in pot it sprouted since yesterday, so it looks like its going well so far, just hope it stays that well, its a big learning curve using cfl's im thinking its possibly going to take longer to grow, i would like my plants at about 1ft when i turn to flower, so i should end up with plants or a plant thats just over 2 ft, not sure what total yield i will get but to be honesy i dont really mind, i just want to see how cfls do and it will tell me if i should continue with using low cost cfls or switch to something else, only time will tell
 
Re: first cfl grow using 30watt cfls

Key on Nutrient Disorders
To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before
making major changes.
1) a) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2.
b) If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.

2) a) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen (N) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #3.

3) a) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #4.

4) a) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency.
b) If not, keep reading...

5) a) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and
leaves may be small. >> Phosphorous (P) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #6.

6) a) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or
insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K.
b) If not, go to #7.

7) a) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray,
brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N).
b) If not, go to #8...

8) a) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >>Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely).
b) If not, go to #9.

9) a) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning.
b) If not, go to #10...

10) a) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency.
b) If not, #11.

11) a) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf
margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency.
b) If not, #12.

12) a) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn)
deficiency.
b) If not, #13.

13) a) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency.
b) If not... You may just have a weak plant.




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Solutions to Nutrient Deficiencies
The Nutrients:
Nitrogen - Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.

Magnesium - Mg-deficiency is pretty common since cannabis uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have enough of it. Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water) or foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.

Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.

Phosphorous - Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.

Iron - Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency.

Manganese - Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use
chelated Mn.

Zinc - Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients- lower the pH if that's the problem so the
nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc.


Check Your Water - Crusty faucets and shower heads mean your water is
"hard," usually due to too
many minerals. Tap water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) level of more
than around 200ppm (parts
per million) is "hard" and should be looked into, especially if your plants
have a chronic problem. Ask
your water company for an analysis listing, which will usually list the pH,
TDS, and mineral levels (as
well as the pollutants, carcinogens, etc) for the tap water in your area.
This is a common request,
especially in this day and age, so it shouldn't raise an eyebrow. Regular
water filters will not reduce a
high TDS level, but the costlier reverse-osmosis units, distillers, and
de-ionizers will. A digital TDS
meter (or EC = electrical conductivity meter) is an incredibly useful tool
for monitoring the nutrient
levels of nutrient solution, and will pay for itself before you know it.
They run about $40 and up.

General Feeding Tips - Pot plants are very adaptable, but a general rule of
thumb is to use more
nitrogen & less phosphorous during the vegetative period, and the exact
opposite during the flowering
period. For the veg. period try a N:p:K ratio of about 10:kiss:8 (which of
course is the same ratio as
20:phew:16), and for flowering plants, 4:bigblush:8. Check the pH after adding
nutrients. If you use a reservoir,
keep it circulating and change it every 2 weeks. A general guideline for
TDS levels is as follows:
seedlings = 50-150 ppm; unrooted clones = 100-350 ppm; small plants =
400-800 ppm; large plants =
900-1800 ppm; last week of flowering = taper off to plain water. These
numbers are just a guideline, and
many factors can change the actual level the plants will need. Certain
nutrients are "invisible" to TDS
meters, especially organics, so use TDS level only as an estimate of actual
nutrient levels. When in
doubt about a new fertilizer, follow the fertilizer's directions for
feeding tomatoes. Grow a few tomato or
radish plants nearby for comparison.

PH - The pH of water after adding any nutrients should be around 5.9-6.5
(in rockwool, 5.5-6.1) .
Generally speaking, the micro-nutrients (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu) get locked out at
a high pH (alkaline) above
7.0, while the major nutrients (N, P, K, Mg) can be less available in
acidic soil or water (below 5.0). Tap
water is often too alkaline. Soils with lots of peat or other organic
matter in them tend to get too acidic,
which some dolomite lime will help fix. Soil test kits vary in accuracy,
and generally the more you pay
the better the accuracy. For the water, color-based pH test kits from
aquarium stores are inexpensive,
but inaccurate. Invest in a digital pH meter ($40-80), preferably a
waterproof one. You won't regret it.

Other Things...

Cold - Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can lock up phosphorous. Some
varieties, like equatorial sativas,
don't take well to cold weather. If you can keep the roots warmer, the
plant will be able to take cooler
temps than it otherwise could.

Heat - If the lights are too close to the plant, the tops may be curled,
dry, and look burnt, mimicking a
nutrient problem. Your hand should not feel hot after a minute when you
hold it at the top of the plants.
Raise the lights and/or aim a fan at the hot zone. Room temps should be
kept under 85F (29C) -- or 90F
(33) if you add additional CO2.

Humidity - Thin, shriveled leaves can be from low humidity. 40-80 % is
usually fine.

Mold and fungus - Dark patchy areas on leaves and buds can be mold. Lower
the humidity and
increase the ventilation if mold is a problem. Remove any dead leaves,
wherever they are. Keep your
garden clean.

Insects - White spots on the tops of leaves can mean spider mites
underneath.

Sprays - Foliar sprays can have a "magnifying glass" effect under bright
lights, causing small white,
yellow or burnt spots which can be confused with a nutrient problem. Some
sprays can also cause
chemical reactions.

Insufficient light -- tall, stretching plants are usually from using the
wrong kind of light.. Don't use
regular incandescent bulbs ("grow bulbs") or halogens to grow cannabis.
Invest in fluorescent lighting
(good) or HID lighting (much better) which supply the high-intensity light
that cannabis needs for
good growth and tight buds. Even better, grow in sunlight.

Clones - yellowing leaves on unrooted clones can be from too much light, or
the stem may not be firmly
touching the rooting medium. Turn off any CO2 until they root. Too much
fertilizer can shrivel or wilt
clones - plain tap water is fine.



some usefull nute info i found, copy n pasted it here for future reference
 
Re: first cfl grow using 30watt cfls

Good job on the transplant...Everything looks fine. Are you able to raise the lights as they grow? Also, as they get bigger, you will want to add some more bulbs. Maybe a couple more at the top, and just one or two along the sides. (Underneath shining up will do basically nothing but waste electricity...)
 
Re: first cfl grow using 30watt cfls

hi, what im in the process of doing is making a sort of cover to go over the top of the lights the comes down at an angle on four sides, this cover will touch the walls and door so no light shoud go above the light holder, ive added another 2 light fittings to the light tray, the 2 i have added angle the bulbs at a 45 degree angle so the light bulb is not only shining light at the end, it lets me get more light from the side of the bulbs, so ive added these so 2 of my bulbs are at 45 degrees giving me more light, so now i can have 6 lights above the plant in the tray that holds the fittings, at the moment ive got 4, but no local hardware store sells the right bulbs they only stock warm white so im ordering off ebay and amazon at the moment, not sure what the maximum size is i can fit into a standard fitting, how ever ive been told the 23watt daylights give off the most lumins to power ratios so i could load up on a load of them instead of gettin 1 100watt cfl, so 4 23 watts give off more lumins than 1 100watt cfl, so anyway the lights above the plants will have 4 of the 6700 kelvin bulbs in and 2 2700 kelvin in just so the plants have got more of a light spectrum, i will also be hanging several bulbs down the sides and around the plants as they start to grow a bit more, so their will be a load more bulbs in their as time goes on, i woudlnt say my plants are stretching to much and in the bigger of the 2 i can see where the new branches are coming out from the stem, as soon as the plants get much taller ill be adding the hanging lights, all ive done for now is cover walls and door in mylar and now im making a wall to wall reflector to go over the top of the lights to reflect the light im losing above the lights, so soon ill get it all dialed in a bit better and the more light i can get the quicker and fuller they will grow, thanks for the info though, im getting their slowly and learning along the way,
 
Re: first cfl grow using 30watt cfls

here is a list of the bulbs ive got in my grow room so far,

in the hood of my aerogarden or what ever its called is a 26 watt 6700 cfl, should be 2 in their but only 1 works and im having trouble sourcing a replacement so will try the net when i use it to do my clones with.

i have 3 30 watt 6400 k, cfls,
i have also got 1 23 watt 2700k cfl just for the extra spectrum
and when i was cleaning out my garage today i came across a brand new 60 watt incandecent natural daylight bulb, without the bulb switched on its clearly got a blue colour to it when its on its got a blue glow to it, but it only gives off 600lumin so i know its not much but it will do till i source other bulbs

i found a hydro shop that sells 100 watt cfls that fit into a standard 240volt bulb holder and their around £40, or i can get a 200 watt cfl for just over £50, so is it worth me getting couple of them, say 2 of each such as 2x 100 6400k for veg and get 2x 100 watt 2700k for flower, or would i be wasting my money and be better of sticking with the lower wattage bulbs and pack more in their.

im just trying to upload a video of my room, ive made a reflector well i say reflector its sort of a cover that hangs over the lights and hangs down the sides of the plants to keep more light shining down and back onto the plants, im keeping an eye on temps due to this and the incandecent been in their.

im just trying to upload a vid i just took of my room, sound is real crappy and dont take the piss out my accent, im not from your neck of the woods.

i made my reflector out of cardboard lined with mylar, im checking temp every hour to make sure it dont all go tits up in a big cloud of smoke.

and after reading this book i got and doing research on the net ive decided to put my lights on 24-0 to see how they grow, if i was doing 18-6 then i would be gaining 25% more growth, well thats what they say, as mine was at 20-4 i wont gain as much possibly around 17% more growth, ill just see how it goes and how the plants look over the next day or 2, if i dont see much difference then ill put it back as it was,
 
Re: first cfl grow using 30watt cfls

anyone know how i upload a video, never done it before,
 
Re: first cfl grow using 30watt cfls

thanks, ive uploaded it to you tube which is the very first time ive uploaded anything to you tube, ive got the privacy settings on it up high so will that be ok when i copy n paste the url, the security settings says only people that have the link can view the video, so if all goes well their should be a video under this post, video is crappy quality cuz i cant find the leads for my camera so using a crappy mobile, sounds crackly as well, but thought id try a video of my grow and see how it turns out, not very good by the looks of it, i need to find the leads to my camera then i can take decent pictures n hd videos, but till then the crappy fone will have to do, oh well lets c if this works,
dont take the piss out my dodgy accent though, i may as well be from another planet, well at least another continent anyway.
 
Re: first cfl grow using 30watt cfls

all i can see is the link i cant see the video box like the one you have done, i copy n paste the url then clicked on the insert link thing and put the url in their, is that right or have i made a huge balls up of it
 
Re: first cfl grow using 30watt cfls

amazing it bloody worked, whoop whoop first video uploaded, probably the crapist one on here, picture quality very poor, sound quality very poor, dodgy accent, crappy camera fone, what else can go wrong, need to get these leads for my other camera, might have to buy some new ones, but thats what you get when you got 2 kids, things go missing or end up tied round teddy bears necks to take them for a walk, but they kids always say they never seen em, then you tidy up n find them stuffed somewhere, either that or the dog ate em, now that could be a good possibility, he has a taste for anything plastic, just chews it to pieces.
 
Re: first cfl grow using 30watt cfls

Good job on your first vid there Buddy:high-five:

Oh, and you stay the hell away from my girlfriend! lol (She LOVES that accent)
 
Re: first cfl grow using 30watt cfls

really, hmmm got me thinking, wonder how much a flight would cost, lol, only joking mate, would never step on another mans toes, had it done to me n it aint nice, but on the plus side its the 1st time ive heard someone like the accent, most people think we sound thick, in my country the area i come from has very little call centers due to the accent, most call centers over here use northern accents or southern accents,

but im in the middle, but thank your girlfriend, didnt expect to get compliment like that on here,
 
Re: first cfl grow using 30watt cfls

is their any reason why the first leaves curled over at the end, its as if the middle of the leaf has carried on growing and the edge has not grown enough causing it to sort of twist in a spiral, on slightly but both the sp kush and nl x bb fem has done this, the bb did slightly but only very slightly, the other leaves that are growing seem ok,

ill get my leads for my camera the next few days even if i have to buy some so ill post a video every so often and you can see better how im getting on, i think pics are ok for documenting stuff but when your trying to show someone something then videos are a lot better, i might use a scotish voice over so i dont sound so thick, but then again, your gf like it so maybe not, lol, reps anyway mate for you gf, put a smile on my face, its 3:50am n im wide a bloody wake, insomnia drives me up the wall sometimes, my brain just wont sleep n sleeping tablets dont work anymore, they keep putting the dose up but on maximum dose now, a nice smoke would do but im all out, so looks like ive got a few sleepless nights, i get the odd hour here n their, it was 6am when i got to sleep on the sofa and was awake again at 8am, problem is once i wake up im awake n thats that, i just try n keep my eyes closed when i know im waking up, but soon as the dog sees me move he comes n licks my hand until i get up, but i wudnt get back to sleep anyway,
 
Re: first cfl grow using 30watt cfls

It's hard to say, not knowing whats in your "compost", or soil...

I've had tat a few times on young plants in the past. Some say it can be caused by, heat...What is your temp in
Fahrenheit? Goo*le it...​
 

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