Issues in week 5 of flower

[SmokingPanda]

I am 5 weeks into flower with my ladies (white russian) and they are showing increasing signs of potassium deficiencies. i grow them in 5 gallon coco pots and feed them about 1/3 a gallon everyday with little run off that quickly sucks back up. i currently use gh flora series micro and bloom currently running at at 10ml (m) and 22ml (b) per gallon. in addition i use gh organic calmag with almost every feeding at about 1 1/2 tsp ger gallon. pH to about 5.8 running on ro water. my ppms usually come out to about 1100 after pHing. water temp is usually low 70s and room stays at a constant 50% humidity. room temps are always between 80 and 85 going down to 70s with the lights off.

according to the GH nute calculator my ratio of 10ml micro and 22ml bloom per gallon comes out to 824ppms with about 130N-136P-217K-134Ca-86Mg-116S which seems right with my tds meter. my ppms with just calmag usually comes out to about 250ppms for close to 1100ppms after pHing. the ratios seem high already but maybe i am underfeeding them.

i also know that too much calmag can cause potassium lockout. im afraid that maybe my ratios are too high in calmag using 10ml micro and 22ml bloom in addition to a daily feeding of calmag.

so what can i be doing wrong? they are showing signs very quick and i feel they have not gotten to where they should at 5 weeks. but i am feeding them it seems a lot but it doesn't seem like enough. i have a bottle of ej meta-k that i could use but should i just add an addition or increase my bloom nute?

thanks

 

[trichomes]

need pics to answer, thankyou

 

[jcool09]

SmokingPanda, 1100PPM is high to begin with and if you're feeding nutes with every watering you've probably got a buildup of nutes in the pots that could be burning the roots. If you have any Clearex on hand I would recommend doing a flush to remove the salt buildup. If not you may want to run with water only for a couple of waterings to see if things improve. As you water (with RO water only) add a little more than is needed and collect the runoff. A quick test with your TDS meter will tell you if my hunch is correct. I am a hydro grower myself and run my PPMs into to the 350-500 range. I used to think that more was better but when I cut the nutes back I saw that my plants were a lot healthier and vigorous. I have learned to watch the tips of my leaves for early signs of over-fertilization. If they're even the slightest bit brown they're telling me I'm feeding them too much. Good luck with your grow, I hope this helps you.

 

[SmokingPanda]

need pics to answer, thankyou

here are some quick ones. i will take more when the lights go off. but they mostly look like this leave. bright yellow tips. lower leaves have yellow specs all over them. second pic is the worst plant but also the smallest of them all.

SmokingPanda, 1100PPM is high to begin with and if you're feeding nutes with every watering you've probably got a buildup of nutes in the pots that could be burning the roots. If you have any Clearex on hand I would recommend doing a flush to remove the salt buildup. If not you may want to run with water only for a couple of waterings to see if things improve. As you water (with RO water only) add a little more than is needed and collect the runoff. A quick test with your TDS meter will tell you if my hunch is correct. I am a hydro grower myself and run my PPMs into to the 350-500 range. I used to think that more was better but when I cut the nutes back I saw that my plants were a lot healthier and vigorous. I have learned to watch the tips of my leaves for early signs of over-fertilization. If they're even the slightest bit brown they're telling me I'm feeding them too much. Good luck with your grow, I hope this helps you.

i have been reading about people feeding coco everyday with a day of water at least once a week. i have been using water with calmag or other additives without nutes for a couple of days now running enough to run off. before i was running much lower amounts of nut but found it was showing deficiencies until i upped them where they are at now. the last week has really moved them along with deficiencies so it seems they are not getting enough. do you recommend 350-500ppms with nutes and calmag or just nutes. i dont have clearex but i have h2o2 if that would work.

 

[SmokingPanda]

 

[SmokingPanda]

Morning bump!

 

[jcool09]

SP- the pics you posted were helpful. Check out this site that has pictures of problem leaves and diagnosis: https://www.------------.com/marijuana-symptoms-pictures and this section in particular: https://www.------------.com/nutrient-burn-cannabis Based on what you posted it seems to confirm my suspicion of nutrient burn. A good flush and/or water only for a little while should return the vigor to your plants.

edit note: 420 site software removed "grow weed easy" (without the spaces or quotes) from the urls above

 

[SmokingPanda]

SP- the pics you posted were helpful. Check out this site that has pictures of problem leaves and diagnosis: https://www.------------.com/marijuana-symptoms-pictures and this section in particular: https://www.------------.com/nutrient-burn-cannabis Based on what you posted it seems to confirm my suspicion of nutrient burn. A good flush and/or water only for a little while should return the vigor to your plants.

thanks jcool! i appreciate the reply. i have had a few say nute burn while a few say calmag def. im just feeding water the past few days with little runoff so maybe i should be good to start fresh.

thanks!
edit note: 420 site software removed "grow weed easy" (without the spaces or quotes) from the urls above

i have had a few say it was nute burn while a few said perfect case of calmag def. but i too think it is nute burn after more reading

 

[SmokingPanda]

another question i have....

when i go to gh flora series drain to waste (Feedcharts) schedule it gives week 8 as 1ml(g)/4ml(m)/6ml(b) and gets around 500-700ppms with additives. when i go to gh calculator and add those rates in gallons the ppms only come out to under 300ppms. is there something i am missing? they are also recommending nute change only once a week so does that mean i should just feed pH water for the remaining days? i feel the chart is off for coco use.

 

[Scarfinger68]

How hot is it? Heat can cause increased transpiration which will cause a potassium deficiency. But a true potassium deficiency would have some more yellowing from the leaf edge moving in.

But it looks like you may have several things going on. I see a magnesium deficiency also. Calcium deficiency can cause rust at the leaf tips also. I am not sure if it is the low light but the leaf tips pointing down and dark green leaves would be a nitrogen toxicity.

I am not sure if coco is the same as soil... If so you want your PH 6.5 to 6.8 for soil. If I remember right, coco can have a build up of salt that takes a little more effort to flush out. Low PH can cause nutrient deficiencies. I would start with a flush.

 

[Scarfinger68]

another question i have....

when i go to gh flora series drain to waste (Feedcharts) schedule it gives week 8 as 1ml(g)/4ml(m)/6ml(b) and gets around 500-700ppms with additives. when i go to gh calculator and add those rates in gallons the ppms only come out to under 300ppms. is there something i am missing? they are also recommending nute change only once a week so does that mean i should just feed pH water for the remaining days? i feel the chart is off for coco use.

With these deficiencies which are probably cause by low PH from too much fertilizer... I am thinking less is better. I would only use 1/2 strength nutes.

*I grow in soil so these are just my thoughts. I can't say 100% they apply to coco.

 

[jcool09]

I am thinking less is better. I would only use 1/2 strength nutes.

Wise words from Scarfinger68. The "less is more" lesson when it comes to nutes is one I resisted for years. Now based on the trials and errors in my own experience I run 300-500 PPM in my hydro. It is natural to want to "max out" the grow environment to get the plants to grow bigger and faster. Cutting back on my nutes has eliminated the issues and resulted in healthier plants. One other note- the PH chart Scarfinger68 provided was for soil- experts recommend 5.7 as the "sweet spot" for hydroponics.

 

[SmokingPanda]

i found the issue to be way too much buildup of salts in the medium. i did a complete flush on all my ladies and found with an initial one gallon runoff the ppms coming out were 1600ppms!!!! after a complete flush i had on average around 50ppms left coming out that didnt seem to want to come out regardless of how many more gallons were used. i let the ladies sit for a whole 24 hours to help dry out the medium and plan on feeding again today. i am just going to try the less is more approach as coco seems a little more of a learning curve than with soil. thanks guys!

 

[jcool09]

i found the issue to be way too much buildup of salts in the medium. i did a complete flush on all my ladies and found with an initial one gallon runoff the ppms coming out were 1600ppms!!!! after a complete flush i had on average around 50ppms left coming out that didnt seem to want to come out regardless of how many more gallons were used. i let the ladies sit for a whole 24 hours to help dry out the medium and plan on feeding again today. i am just going to try the less is more approach as coco seems a little more of a learning curve than with soil. thanks guys!

That is good news. Your damaged leaves wont heal but you should be able to track your status by watching the leaves that were not damaged as well as new growth. If the damage does not spread any further you can have confidence that the problem was correctly identified and resolved. I have removed the damaged leaves / tips from the grow in the past to help identify if there is any new damage. This may not be wise for you as you're well into flower and the plant will not be growing any new leaves to replace the ones you pull.

 

[Scarfinger68]

i found the issue to be way too much buildup of salts in the medium. i did a complete flush on all my ladies and found with an initial one gallon runoff the ppms coming out were 1600ppms!!!! after a complete flush i had on average around 50ppms left coming out that didnt seem to want to come out regardless of how many more gallons were used. i let the ladies sit for a whole 24 hours to help dry out the medium and plan on feeding again today. i am just going to try the less is more approach as coco seems a little more of a learning curve than with soil. thanks guys!

+reps for learning something

 

[FrankFoster]

HOT HOT HOT HOT....,...HOT HOT HOT HOT...
I freaking love that South-Park...
Love it....

Classic Tox-buildup burn, causes Cal-lockout at the same time is does the N-burn thing to the tips of the leaves.

I like what was said above about less being more with nutes and fertz and ambition...
A buddy ran tap water in hydro for years... he was 440 ppm out of the tap, and I only added 140-150 ppm in nutes... N and K only. no P in grow... Then would push up the P by 50 ppm max.
Full bloom chemical profile was less than 650 ppm @ 5.9 ph at peak...
My other buddy did the same strain, and he took it to the max but never beat the low profile outputs..... because ....

when you check the chemical-profile every day, it has more to do with the chemical profile rather than the TDS.
But my friend on high ppm (pardon the pun) could run his setup for 3 weeks and the plants would sustain... lower ppm requires greater control... go 4 days on low ppm and the profile goes all whacky, you run out of soluble N fast and then the P-K ratios will block out Micro-nutes...

ltr

 

[Scarfinger68]

HOT HOT HOT HOT....,...HOT HOT HOT HOT...
I freaking love that South-Park...
Love it....

Classic Tox-buildup burn, causes Cal-lockout at the same time is does the N-burn thing to the tips of the leaves.

I like what was said above about less being more with nutes and fertz and ambition...
A buddy ran tap water in hydro for years... he was 440 ppm out of the tap, and I only added 140-150 ppm in nutes... N and K only. no P in grow... Then would push up the P by 50 ppm max.
Full bloom chemical profile was less than 650 ppm @ 5.9 ph at peak...
My other buddy did the same strain, and he took it to the max but never beat the low profile outputs..... because ....

when you check the chemical-profile every day, it has more to do with the chemical profile rather than the TDS.
But my friend on high ppm (pardon the pun) could run his setup for 3 weeks and the plants would sustain... lower ppm requires greater control... go 4 days on low ppm and the profile goes all whacky, you run out of soluble N fast and then the P-K ratios will block out Micro-nutes...

ltr

Thanks for sharing your experience

+reps