Hdinkleman
Well-Known Member
thats ok, just make sure to PH to the correct amount.
what exactly is your medium that you are growing in?
im at work so may take a minute to answer all the questions but i will get to it as soon as i can
Leaves starting to burn?
- Thread starter LosSerpent
- Start date
thats ok, just make sure to PH to the correct amount.
what exactly is your medium that you are growing in?
im at work so may take a minute to answer all the questions but i will get to it as soon as i can
- Thread starter
- #22
LosSerpent
Well-Known Member
it's some regular soil i bought at the store, i'm not sure what the name was, i made sure it had no nutrients in it. i have a friend who is growing in this soil and he had good results...
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
can you get Jack's Classic where you are at? It is an old school commercial grade nutrient company, and they have a 2 part system that is perfect for what we do. A small order that will get you through 2 or 3 grows easily will set you back about $20.
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- #24
LosSerpent
Well-Known Member
is it on amazon/ebay? i've never seen it in a shop, but then again i don't really look at fertilizers in shops... anything that i can buy online and ships to italy will do
Hdinkleman
Well-Known Member
is it on amazon/ebay? i've never seen it in a shop, but then again i don't really look at fertilizers in shops... anything that i can buy online and ships to italy will do
you can use terra vega in soil, you just need to adjust it to the correct PH.
CANNA nutrients are made to mix with tap water and defaults after mix to approx 5.8 for terra vega and 6.0-6.2 for terra flores
thise are both PHs that are meant for use in their corresponding medium of CANNA TERRA PRO PLUS, which is a coco/peat soilless hydroponic medium.
trust me i just went through this whole damn same thing with my hydroshop guy.
dude it would be something if you go to the same shop i do..... lol
i have been there and overheard him giving bad info about canna products......
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- #26
LosSerpent
Well-Known Member
i'd rather get the product for soil because i don't have any of that ph down ph up or a ph tester, so i figured it be better to just get the right stuff. because i'm growing 3 white widow auto too, and i want to feed them the right stuff....
- Thread starter
- #27
LosSerpent
Well-Known Member
Hdinkleman
Well-Known Member
bio vega is for soil
- Thread starter
- #29
LosSerpent
Well-Known Member
ok thanks i'll get it, what about for flowering?
Hdinkleman
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #31
LosSerpent
Well-Known Member
alright i'll look into it
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- #32
LosSerpent
Well-Known Member
Hello, the leaves on the white widow are starting to burn, what should i do?
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Let's see a picture, please. Your definition and mine of burning, might be two different things.
- Thread starter
- #34
LosSerpent
Well-Known Member
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Yes, you definitely have a problem, but it isn't what you think. How often are you watering, and what indicator do you use to tell you that it is time to water? When you water, how much do you give?
- Thread starter
- #36
LosSerpent
Well-Known Member
well, i've been away for 1 week so i've water them with an automatic system for 4 days every day (little water, enough to keep the soil slightly wet) now i've started watering them when the soil dries up, (when i see it dry over the surface, i wait 1 day and water them) with my other bigger plants i just wait until the leaves drop down a bit, but i'm scared to do it with little fragile plants like these ones, since they are very young, what do you recommend? i tho it was nutrient burn since the soil was pre-fertilized and maybe it was too strong? when i water them i give them about 0.50 - 0.70 CL of water, the containters are 10L 10L 14L, my bigger plants had the same problem, i fixed it by not giving them any nutriens for 16 days. (i was feeding them too much too early)
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
yes, that is the problem... you are watering all wrong and as a result you are pooling water in the bottom of your containers. These are weeds, and they thrive in adversity, and don't do so well when put into luxury. The roots actually get in trouble if they are sitting in water all the time, and they need to see oxygen get pulled deep down into that soil as the water table level drops. If the lower roots never see oxygen, they protect themselves and the stop taking up water. When this happens, the plant can no longer get the nutrition that it needs, and it starts to cannibalize the lower leaves for the nutrients they have stored up. You are now seeing first hand what happens when this occurs.
Your auto watering system was a great idea, but it needs to be fine tuned a bit. Instead of watering every day, install a sensor in the bottom inch of the container that tells the system that it has dried out, and then turn on the sprinkler. The surface of the soil can not tell you a thing about what is happening to those lower roots, it is all about the bottom and whether any stale water is still sitting in there. Instead of a sensor, you could go by weight, and automatically turn on the sprinkler when the weight of the container approaches that of a similar container filled with DRY soil...
When the sprinklers go on, I would turn them on for a minute, and then off for a couple of minutes and I would repeat that pattern until finally water started to flow out of the bottom as runoff. A sensor down there could tell you when you have totally saturated the soil, and turn off the automatic system until the container dried out again. There is no way to properly set an arbitrary amount to squirt onto the plants to reach runoff, it should change slightly on every proper watering.
This would be the only way to automatically and properly water a container... you cant do it based on time, because the wet/dry cycle of a healthy plant that is growing more roots all the time, slowly diminishes. The amount of water that the plant can take before the soil saturates changes based on how many roots are in there, and this also can not just be arbitrarily set... a sensor is needed to adjust to this variability.
I wrote a thing about how to properly water a few years ago, and to date it has around 75,000 reads. It has helped so many people figure out watering that it has become a sticky on 4 different online forums, although this is the only forum I now support. People all over the globe have added links to it in their signature lines; they feel it is that important to understand the need for a wet/dry cycle in a vegging weed. It is time that you read this too, and I think it will get you sorted out. The link is down below, in my signature lines.
Your auto watering system was a great idea, but it needs to be fine tuned a bit. Instead of watering every day, install a sensor in the bottom inch of the container that tells the system that it has dried out, and then turn on the sprinkler. The surface of the soil can not tell you a thing about what is happening to those lower roots, it is all about the bottom and whether any stale water is still sitting in there. Instead of a sensor, you could go by weight, and automatically turn on the sprinkler when the weight of the container approaches that of a similar container filled with DRY soil...
When the sprinklers go on, I would turn them on for a minute, and then off for a couple of minutes and I would repeat that pattern until finally water started to flow out of the bottom as runoff. A sensor down there could tell you when you have totally saturated the soil, and turn off the automatic system until the container dried out again. There is no way to properly set an arbitrary amount to squirt onto the plants to reach runoff, it should change slightly on every proper watering.
This would be the only way to automatically and properly water a container... you cant do it based on time, because the wet/dry cycle of a healthy plant that is growing more roots all the time, slowly diminishes. The amount of water that the plant can take before the soil saturates changes based on how many roots are in there, and this also can not just be arbitrarily set... a sensor is needed to adjust to this variability.
I wrote a thing about how to properly water a few years ago, and to date it has around 75,000 reads. It has helped so many people figure out watering that it has become a sticky on 4 different online forums, although this is the only forum I now support. People all over the globe have added links to it in their signature lines; they feel it is that important to understand the need for a wet/dry cycle in a vegging weed. It is time that you read this too, and I think it will get you sorted out. The link is down below, in my signature lines.
- Thread starter
- #38
LosSerpent
Well-Known Member
ok thanks, what about manually tho, is my method good? (waiting until the leaves drop down and water them when they do)
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
no, because a healthy plant drops down its leaves every night a bit. Your leaves are dropping because the plant can no longer develop enough water pressure to lift those leaves up full time, because those lower roots have shut down. The lift method is your best friend when it comes to this, and I use it in my own tents. I can not tell just by looking at a plant if it needs water. Please read how to properly water a potted plant; the many points I make in there should answer most of your questions.
Read Emilya's essay on watering first before worrying about whether what she has to say is good for manual or automatic watering. It is long but read through it. Here is the link.....
https://www.420magazine.com/community/threads/the-proper-way-to-water-a-potted-plant.266274/
Have a good day.
