My First Grow - Is This Normal?

[Mark30g]

Yeah Fuzzy Duck, I have stopped the misting but just wanted to make sure thanx dude, I have been sticking to ECONOMIC 2.1 -2.0 Both hydro and soil. I just hope once I purchase the new efficient exhaust fan is that my humidity do not change and it's not like I can get away with not buying it as it's started to flower times9 as it's smelling stronger each day and Temperature are over 93.zipped up closed. so I am having to leave door open half way just to get it round the high eighties but then it's smelling more stronger each day. Also am having to transplant 3MJ's into bigger pots as it should ov been done b4 Xmas when I was doing the other 1pot as I ran out of B'cuzz light mix soil, so went to local hydro shop and they had no soil at all so I had to get some Cannabis husk coir £12 for you 50L not to bad. they said I shant have probs so fingers crossed. Also thanx for the links they been really helpful but he didn't enjoy the taste. So I'll try the Babysitter to bake some space cakes.

 

[Mark30g]

First i'd like to say sorry for the miss spelling in the last post pmsl, predictive txt for you had to use my phone. So glad i have my new laptop( see it pays to have a gaurantee)lol.

A few Macro shots

 

[Mark30g]

Well just checked humidity levels and they are EXTREMELY HIGH 72.humidity is scary as DO not want bud rot but i did water all soil plants instead of normaly the smaller pots at different times so no i have transplanted there all pretty much being watered all at the same time. I've been waiting for my local hydroponic store to have a delivery mid week ov Exhaust Fans(RVK 125") so i chosen not to order of ebay/online thinking i'll have it sooner. But for the same price i could get a temp/speed control on it so i'll check if they got next day delivery, As the 1 i have is like a jet engine(Bog standard) and i have it of at night-time but after seeing the temps 2nite i have no choice maybe i could have it on timed so it comes on and of a few times(15min intervals) as i gone PARNOID LOL would love to hear some thoughts on this please. As lights on my humidity is like late 20's early 30's, but temps are still high @92f maybe it is because i'd watered all pots 2day ohh well have to wait and see lol

 

[Fuzzy Duck]

Oh you will be pleased with the new RVK 125mm fan they are reasonable quite .

I run mine 24/7 & find an average of 10% to 20% drop in humidity levels


Some bits i've noticed about Humidity

• Lights Off humidity levels spikes really high with out the fan running.
• Freshly watered pots increase humidity slightly, normally short lived spike.
• Using hydroton clay pebbles on surface of soil pots decreases evapouration lowering humidity slightly.

Mmm stuff about fans to vent your grow room ya need to change the air 20 times in a hour so they say, this gives the plants plenty of air/oxygen/carbon dioxide & what ever to keep em happy.

To calculate the size of fan you require simply follow these instructions:
Measure the Height, Length and Width (in metres) of the growing environment.
Multiply together (H x L x W) to give the cubic meter volume.
Multiply this figure by 20.
This is the size of fan required to change the air 20 times in an hour.

 

[jandre2k3]

Hey, Mark, you asked a question about watering feeding in my journal, I answered over there, before coming over to see that some of these are in soil. Go take a look over there for the answer. I'll go back over and edit for seeing soil here. Here is the link for your question in the journal.

I will say that watering in soil, that many times a day will contribute to higher than normal RH, as well as cause a multitude of disease-related problems. Letting your soil almost dry out between watering will help lower your RH as well as help keep your plants healthy and happy...

 

[Mark30g]

Had to change my reservoir yesterday what a nightmare indeed, I'll have some more pic's coming soon

 

[Mark30g]

Oh you will be pleased with the new RVK 125mm fan they are reasonable quite .

I run mine 24/7 & find an average of 10% to 20% drop in humidity levels

Mmm stuff about fans to vent your grow room ya need to change the air 20 times in a hour so they say, this gives the plants plenty of air/oxygen/carbon dioxide & what ever to keep em happy.

To calculate the size of fan you require simply follow these instructions:
Measure the Height, Length and Width (in metres) of the growing environment.
Multiply together (H x L x W) to give the cubic meter volume.
Multiply this figure by 20.
This is the size of fan required to change the air 20 times in an hour.

Ok then this is the sum in meters 1.6x1x1x20=32? umm not to sure if it is in meters so here it is in feet 5.24x3.37x3.37x201,190.20!! still not right is it so i messed round and x it without the x20 and i got =59.51, so i thought times it by 3x59.51=178.53 could this be the rquasion all so do you no much about adding 3.5 meters ov ducting with3 bends( i won't have to mess around each day as it's 2bends when i got to mess around as at night its put into 3bends as ov bed lol) But all is vented out ov window with a lamp shade at the end as my disguise pmsl. But then increased air pulling/pushing against my Can filter @1.54cf wouldn't be efficient with a 250 to 350 cfm exhauast fan. ARGH now i got probs, or could I get a way with this 3.5m ducting plus 3bends in it and maybe a speed dimmer but the smell GOT to be gone or majority/most ov it. Would appreaciate any advice/comments on this as i'm constantly getting high Temps 92. but would prefer if i could zip it up save on my ELC Bill as ATM i'm having to leave bedroom light on as ov the upper zip and lower door zipps being left open to mix and change temps from a constant 92./93. + but my humidity is fine now as long as i leave it on in the nights but this one is really loud also it is no where near sufficent enough so i'll use it to bring fresh air in to my grow room.

 

[jandre2k3]

Ok then this is the sum in meters 1.6x1x1x20=32? umm not to sure if it is in meters so here it is in feet 5.24x3.37x3.37x201,190.20!! still not right is it so i messed round and x it without the x20 and i got =59.51, so i thought times it by 3x59.51=178.53 could this be the rquasion all so do you no much about adding 3.5 meters ov ducting with3 bends( i won't have to mess around each day as it's 2bends when i got to mess around as at night its put into 3bends as ov bed lol) But all is vented out ov window with a lamp shade at the end as my disguise pmsl. But then increased air pulling/pushing against my Can filter @1.54cf wouldn't be efficient with a 250 to 350 cfm exhauast fan. ARGH now i got probs, or could I get a way with this 3.5m ducting plus 3bends in it and maybe a speed dimmer but the smell GOT to be gone or majority/most ov it. Would appreaciate any advice/comments on this as i'm constantly getting high Temps 92. but would prefer if i could zip it up save on my ELC Bill as ATM i'm having to leave bedroom light on as ov the upper zip and lower door zipps being left open to mix and change temps from a constant 92./93. + but my humidity is fine now as long as i leave it on in the nights but this one is really loud also it is no where near sufficent enough so i'll use it to bring fresh air in to my grow room.

If you have a 1x1x1, that's 1m3. 1.6x1x1=1.6m3 multiply 1.6 by 20 you get 32. the equation is (HxLxW)x20 or (1.6x1x1)x20. You had it right the first time. As most of the fans I know of are rated in Cubic Feet per Minute, the more accurate solution would be to do your math for meters to feet, then do the equation. (5.25x3.28x3.28)20 or 56.4816x20=1129.632 Cubic Feet per HOUR. 20 changes in air for your space per HOUR. As most fans are Cubic Feet per MINUTE, we need to get the volume for that. Divide by 60.......1129.632/60=18.8272. A tiny little 4" fan at 20 CFM is more than enough for your needs.

 

[Fuzzy Duck]

As jandre2k3 said ya got it right first time around, stick a 0 on the end & ya got 320L & this is often the measurement/volume of fan extraction/intake is measured in.

I work this out by using cm's for some reason i find it easy, all comes out at same figue of 32 at the end of the day, metric & round down.

I'm sorry if i'm totally crap at explaining maths, it was never my fortitude

Now different brands of fan do XXX amount of litres per hour & priced some what differently depending on quality/tec etc, you are either going to get a over size litre per hour or under sized fan - due to grow room size.


Now ya gotta to factor in size of bulb for your grow space, 600w is slightly larger than what most poeple would use in that area e.g it may well kick out more heat than a 400w hence higher temperatures.

Well depending on your location in the world, its january more or less & winter in most parts of the globe.
Also whether you require central heating to stay warm can effect grow room temperatures if using a passive intake system & single fan extraction.


Some of these factors could well decide the size of fan used & or fan controller if larger fan is a better option.

 

[Fuzzy Duck]

Another option is an air cooled reflector, means more ducting & another fan.


Just some food for thought.

 

[jandre2k3]

Ok then this is the sum in meters 1.6x1x1x20=32? umm not to sure if it is in meters so here it is in feet 5.24x3.37x3.37x201,190.20!! still not right is it so i messed round and x it without the x20 and i got =59.51, so i thought times it by 3x59.51=178.53 could this be the rquasion all so do you no much about adding 3.5 meters ov ducting with3 bends( i won't have to mess around each day as it's 2bends when i got to mess around as at night its put into 3bends as ov bed lol) But all is vented out ov window with a lamp shade at the end as my disguise pmsl. But then increased air pulling/pushing against my Can filter @1.54cf wouldn't be efficient with a 250 to 350 cfm exhauast fan. ARGH now i got probs, or could I get a way with this 3.5m ducting plus 3bends in it and maybe a speed dimmer but the smell GOT to be gone or majority/most ov it. Would appreaciate any advice/comments on this as i'm constantly getting high Temps 92. but would prefer if i could zip it up save on my ELC Bill as ATM i'm having to leave bedroom light on as ov the upper zip and lower door zipps being left open to mix and change temps from a constant 92./93. + but my humidity is fine now as long as i leave it on in the nights but this one is really loud also it is no where near sufficent enough so i'll use it to bring fresh air in to my grow room.

As jandre2k3 said ya got it right first time around, stick a 0 on the end & ya got 320L & this is often the measurement/volume of fan extraction/intake is measured in.

I work this out by using cm's for some reason i find it easy, all comes out at same figue of 32 at the end of the day, metric & round down.

I'm sorry if i'm totally crap at explaining maths, it was never my fortitude

Now different brands of fan do XXX amount of litres per hour & priced some what differently depending on quality/tec etc, you are either going to get a over litre per hour or under sized fan - due to grow room size.


Now ya gotta to factor in size of bulb for your grow space, 600w is slightly larger than what most poeple would use in that area e.g it may well kick out more heat than a 400w hence higher temperatures.

Well depending on your location in the world, its january more or less & winter in most parts of the globe.
Also whether you require central heating to stay warm can effect grow room temperatures if using a passive intake system & single fan extraction.


Some of these factors could well decide the size of fan used & or fan controller if larger fan is a better option.

aww crap... I just noticed that you guys are in the UK. sorry for the confusion. Imperial, standard, metric...... let's do metric...

1.6x1x1=1.6 Cubic Meters, so we multiply 1.6 that by 20 changes per hour and the product is 32 Cubic Meters per hour (there are 1000L in 1 Cubic Meter...so 32 Cubic Meters x 1000 = 32,000 Liters per hour, or, 533.3 Liters per minute) for 20 total changes an hour.

How are your fans rated?? Litres Per Hour, Cubic Meters<per>Hour, Litres Per Minute? Either way, if you want to exchange that much air per hour, there are your figures. Do with it what you will, just get a can rated at the same volume, or above the volume of your fan so you don't have blowby.

 

[Fuzzy Duck]

I'm pretty sure its litres per hour in the UK - more or less all metric these days here in sunny ol U.K


Can be confusing at times as diffferent countrys have other measurements from what we are use to dealing with.


God bless america, one day our own laws will get in tune with MMJ

 

[jandre2k3]

I'm pretty sure its litres per hour in the UK - more or less all metric these days here in sunny ole U.K


Can be confusing at times as different countries have other measurements from what we are use to dealing with.


God bless America, one day our own laws will get in tune with MMJ

So for you application, Mark30g, 32000 LPH fan.

 

[Mark30g]

So for you application, Mark30g, 32000 LPH fan.

Thanks jandre2k3 & Twelve12, really appreaciate it and sorry to still be lame what is this in cfm? or was it this in the chart @533.3CFM?, As CFM is what i have been going from as my filter is only @154CFM and inline exhaust fan is @173CFM so either way i no I'll have to purchase a Carbon Filter on top of the Exhaust Fan but with that many makes/models of Exhaust fans which do i go for?( Umm stil not sure) as like i've talked about early on in my posts that my main concern is Noise!! ov course obviuosly after No.1 being sufficient enough to deal with heat coming from my 600HPS in a 1x1x1.6m tent with a carbon filter@154CFM and exhaust @173CFM which now i realize they shouldn't of sold that high powered light for that tent espeacially with the lil exhaust fan(which are mainly sold for use as an intake fan, so I'll be using it as one one I've sold problem1). Also I should of got a smaller tent(80cmx80cm1.2cm like they advertised on Ebay) as i only wanted a few mabe 2-4 @the most. I'm just glad that tent weren't there as the heat inside that would of been EXTREME(they no longer sell complete kits now"Basement lighting") Also I think i should ov vegged a lot longer than i should of as i was going by the oldest plant which is 3weeks older than seedlings and i realize that the oldest would of stayed in veg until seedling grew and were ready for flowering with this in mind i'm confused by how long one would veg for as the Dutch Pro Nutrient feeding schedule say 18/6hrs light for 2 weeks then switch 12/12hrs for 12wks which is what i done but for 3.5 weeks(as older1 had a bad start in life airing cupboard and wildowsill job for 2wks so i'm not expecting much even tho up untill the middle of this grow i have concentrated my efforts and mainly gone from that 1 and i no this is where i'd gone a lil wrong). Besides she being the oldest @5.5wks flower is looking fine at the moment and the calyxes are fattening up and I'm starting to notice the THC (i think as it looks like furr untill you look and expect carefully underneath and insider/around the buds pmsl). So will she get any bigger then? Also I'm chuffed as the 2 in hydro are now bigger than the oldest 1(the flower/buds) but the one i have pruned mostly all her fan leaves of but the other i have left and this is the bigger of the 2 where as the other 2 are really laefy/short and are only just starting to flower(like i say earlier about vegging) i heard you veg until 18inches so how long roughly would this atke i understand there is different grow conditions and feeding times/schedules plus soil/hydro or coco. Also as i got height on my side 1.6m(about 1.2 after fan/filter combo) i think personaly i should stop LST'ing and let them grow high also would raising my light effect the tight nugs as i have had it close(not to close as i have gone closer than this and been fine) as no matter where i got the light temps are still the same but i think what i'm trying to say is am i right to think that they should/would stretch a lil bit(due to light being a few inches away or would it make the beds leafy and not tighter) Thanx for all your help and info

 

[jandre2k3]

Thanks jandre2k3 & Twelve12, really appreaciate it and sorry to still be lame what is this in cfm? or was it this in the chart @533.3CFM?, As CFM is what i have been going from as my filter is only @154CFM and inline exhaust fan is @173CFM so either way i no I'll have to purchase a Carbon Filter on top of the Exhaust Fan but with that many makes/models of Exhaust fans which do i go for?( Umm stil not sure) as like i've talked about early on in my posts that my main concern is Noise!! ov course obviuosly after No.1 being sufficient enough to deal with heat coming from my 600HPS in a 1x1x1.6m tent with a carbon filter@154CFM and exhaust @173CFM which now i realize they shouldn't of sold that high powered light for that tent espeacially with the lil exhaust fan(which are mainly sold for use as an intake fan, so I'll be using it as one one I've sold problem1). Also I should of got a smaller tent(80cmx80cm1.2cm like they advertised on Ebay) as i only wanted a few mabe 2-4 @the most. I'm just glad that tent weren't there as the heat inside that would of been EXTREME(they no longer sell complete kits now"Basement lighting") Also I think i should ov vegged a lot longer than i should of as i was going by the oldest plant which is 3weeks older than seedlings and i realize that the oldest would of stayed in veg until seedling grew and were ready for flowering with this in mind i'm confused by how long one would veg for as the Dutch Pro Nutrient feeding schedule say 18/6hrs light for 2 weeks then switch 12/12hrs for 12wks which is what i done but for 3.5 weeks(as older1 had a bad start in life airing cupboard and wildowsill job for 2wks so i'm not expecting much even tho up untill the middle of this grow i have concentrated my efforts and mainly gone from that 1 and i no this is where i'd gone a lil wrong). Besides she being the oldest @5.5wks flower is looking fine at the moment and the calyxes are fattening up and I'm starting to notice the THC (i think as it looks like furr untill you look and expect carefully underneath and insider/around the buds pmsl). So will she get any bigger then? Also I'm chuffed as the 2 in hydro are now bigger than the oldest 1(the flower/buds) but the one i have pruned mostly all her fan leaves of but the other i have left and this is the bigger of the 2 where as the other 2 are really laefy/short and are only just starting to flower(like i say earlier about vegging) i heard you veg until 18inches so how long roughly would this atke i understand there is different grow conditions and feeding times/schedules plus soil/hydro or coco. Also as i got height on my side 1.6m(about 1.2 after fan/filter combo) i think personaly i should stop LST'ing and let them grow high also would raising my light effect the tight nugs as i have had it close(not to close as i have gone closer than this and been fine) as no matter where i got the light temps are still the same but i think what i'm trying to say is am i right to think that they should/would stretch a lil bit(due to light being a few inches away or would it make the beds leafy and not tighter) Thanx for all your help and info

Unless your fan is a NOT a BOOSTER fan, then you're probably fine as these fans rely on back pressure to get the rated CFM. If it is actually a duct fan, your salesman needs to learn a bit about the way filters work. If air is moving faster than the rated volume your filter can handle, you'll get "Blowby" or UNFILTERED AIR running through your filter. So someone either sold you the wrong filter for your fan, or you have a duct booster fan... If your fan is actually going faster than your filter is rated, you are losing effectiveness....

Also, if I read this right, you're using the can filter as Intake? Turn it around the other way. Never ever blow out through the can, that sock on the outside is to protect your carbon from dust! If you're blowing into the fan from the center, you're blowing all sorts of shyte into your filter and ruining it/reducing its life. A can filter is ALWAYS an exhaust filter used to reduce emissions of odor from your space. The airflow should be going from outside the filter, through the fuzzy-type sock on the outside of the can, and your fan should be sucking air out through the center (can) for the filter, not the other way 'round. If you are blowing INTO your can stop it immediately ad re work your ducting so your fan is pulling (NOT PUSHING) air through it. Remember when dealing with carbon filter cans, "SUCK, NEVER BLOW"

Working with what you currently own, the best application for your needs is to go get a rectangle HEPA filter (not necessarily required), place it over one of your rectangle holes in the bottom for the tent, duct tape it into place, seal the others, and use your current fan to draw air through your filter and push it out of the tent. If your fan is >NOT A BOOSTER FAN< I would go get a dimmer for your fan to lower the speed of your fan to the rated can filter volume, unless you're not worried about odor.

If you're not worried about odor, and if your major problem is cooling, I would go get an air cooled light cover, and hook up your existing fan via ducting to the cover and vent it to the outside of the tent. Then get ducting for the other side of the light cover and run it to the outside, that way you have cool air running in from outside the tent, right over your light, then pushed outside the tent again. This will reduce heat significantly. If you feel you need more cross circulation through the tent itself, get a small fan to hook up to your current filter and pull air through (Suck, never blow) and duct it to the outside. This will passively bring air in through the many vents already in your tent walls, or through the HEPA filter described above.

If you feel you need to get an intake fan, which you really don't if I understand what you already own correctly, this is the breakdown for your application.
CFM: Cubic Feet per Minute - 20 CFM (Fuzzy said it's not used for you guys.)
M3PH: Cubic Meters Per Hour - 32 MPH
LPM: Litres Per Minute - 533.3 LPM
LPH: Litres Per Hour - 32000 LPH

There you are, friend. Everything you need to know about your air movement needs in different volume measurements for the exact same airspeed...

 

[Mark30g]

Picture Update from 2 days ago since this was taken i've noticed the buds/calyxes starting to swell on the oldest one, but the hydro are looking a lot bigger lol, i just hope they get bigger.

 

[jandre2k3]

Please forgive me if this seems rude....

Okay, I didn't say anything at first, because the questions and answers were all in one thread. But now you're responding in other journals to posts made here. This fragments a conversation and makes it confusing, and hard to follow. If you respond here to someone's post made here, the people you respond to will get your responses from here without having to confuse things with posting off topic responses to questions, help, concerns in another journal. There is no need to post in another journal questions, answers, responses in journals that have nothing to do with the original conversation. It gets very confusing as to who is where and what was said by whom, and try to track down the when and where. Instead of jumping back and forth trying to follow a conversation that spans many threads, just post it here for simplicity's sake.

It is perfectly fine to ask questions in another thread... If you have a question pertaining to something said in another thread, ask the question there, and it will be answered there. They will not come here and answer a question and confuse things. The question is in the other thread, there is no reason to answer it in a completely different thread.

Likewise if they respond to comments, concerns, what-have-you, they, again, will not come here to reply, it will be made there so as not to confuse things.

This post was in a different thread not pertaining to this problem. I have quoted the response here for simplicity

Hi Jandre2k3 m8, So as i set my res@EC 2.1 it spiked higher than on day1 EC 2.4? obviously i added water to bring it down but not sure why until i read your post properly again lol. So obviously it is because of my temps like we talked on my posts/or Blog page?(not sure if its my blog) And i needs to get this heat down as there not happy being in this high heat as my humidity is fine @night and day and from what i have read there is an optimal heat exceptency level and a tolerable but is it healthy for it to constantly be in a high tolerable level.
And as for my Local Tap water the PH is 6.9 but the ECOstick wand i have only measures @ the lowest EC=0.4/ PPMx500=200/ PPMx700=280 or CF 04. Which is no were near what you said so may have to go with the bottle water unless i get a finisher buy i'm not worrying bout it yet!

Also we talked about the filter/combo as maybe you think i might have it wrong so it is set as so Can carbon filter/ Exhaust fan(it is actually blowing out the other end therefore it must be sucking hot air as i could feel it the other end) then the tent sleeve on the inside connected to the exhaust, outside of tent is the 3.5m ducting the tent end i have slotted into to as it fits perfectly and @ the other end where the warm smelly damp air is i have a sqaure lamp shade that goes straight thru window. I hope that i have this correct pmsl.

Air-cooled reflector, you said was my best option(as it could be the cheapest but not to bothered UNLESS it needs it) or would i still need to buy the extractor fan and thanx m8

 

[jandre2k3]

Message quoted here from another journal for simplicity's sake.

Well i thought id drop lights down to 10.5 and wait for a week as there are more MMJ that are behind the oldest one so i'll wait a week and drop slowly down to 9.5 and as for nutrients i had to do a complete change clean reservoir as i was getting a slight burns and in all fairness i was being lazy about it lol(as 10/14days is extreme and i were'nt thinking once i went ahead with Atami Wilma stressful), But all fresh clean Nutes and im at EC 2.0-1.9 as this time around iv'e left out Formulex and stuck with the Dutch Pro A+B & Dutch Pro Explode(was going to buy the Multi Total) But as i was given a sample ov Plant Magic Bloom Boost and as i was already using Bloom Boost i decided to save on the cash flow as ov my Temp prob.So over the next few days i'll raise the EC level up higher but which do you recomend i add (as the Explode is the first time so i used it half strengh ov which the D.P A&B was @EC 1.5/1.6) so the normal amount of Plant Magic Bloom Boost was used(as there used to it now)and only half Explode which raised it to 1.9/2.0. So now once i raise the EC with Explode and and my guess is maybe 5L water used do/have i mgot to add more water back up to 30liters and try to keep it @that level or just add it and let the plant eat what they can(as i mean at the end ov 10/14 days when one must clean reservoir out should there res be full or what the plants have eaten) As i waited for a lil over 3 weeks letting plants eat what they can and kept a check on things each day and it were'nt untill i seen a lil burnt on edges thatg i decided to go ahead and change the res. Any info on this would be Fab.
Flushing would i be better to purchase a finnisher (as money is not really an issue, my final smoke is, but the misses keeps saying this will be the most expensive weed ever PMSFL) or would i be better to check either the EC/PPM of my local water and go from there would obviuosly be the best solution but do these finishing products add anything like taste/flavour to the buds in some sort of way? or do they still recomend you to finish up with plain water and basically waste your money as i'm not to sure and sorry if i'm goig about this the wrong way.And when or what week do one start dropping nutes down to half strengh ready in time for which week of the beggining of the flush and obviously one has to take into account the colours of there pistols/hairs(and which/where do they start to change colour first? i mean do they change @the ends (nearest the light)or @the start of the hair/pistols? or have i got my lamo to close(paranoia setting in, as they been fine pmsl) But none of the others are like it so obviously it's the start of the transformation but the whitish hairs inside are not changed. Thanx on all this info you have given so far on this subject amazing it all is

 

[jandre2k3]

Now that we have all this here, I will say this:

Worry less about EC/PPM and more about pH. It doesn't matter how strong or weak your solution is, if it's not at the proper pH, it's not absorbed.

Second, I find that a good PPM meter is a little more accurate and easy to understand than EC for telling me how much food is left in the water. Also, DO NOT add water toward the end of each feeding cycle of your res. You dilute your nutes and lower the availability of nutrients for your plants and in an inert substrate such as Hydrotone (expanded clay) there is no other food source available. If you find your solution level getting too low, individually mix a gallon at a time, adjust for pH, and add THAT to your res.

Third, Wash, Clean, Sanitize your area and res about every 11 to 14 days. Flush your media when changing the res to prevent salt buildup. For a res lower than 5Gal (20L) Check your pH every day. Check PPM every 2 to 3 days. Inspect your plants every other day. Use preventatives for disease, and pests at all times. You're far less likely to spend more on preventatives, than on a fix especially if your plant dies because it got too bad.

If you find your pH climbs/falls or is erratic between cleanings, check your res for foreign contaminants. If your pH goes down sharply, check your PPM to see if plants are sucking water, this will make your PPM/TDS spike as they are only "drinking" and not "eating" (Solved most times by equalizing the humidity or heat). This is also the only time you should dilute your nutes in the res between cycles because you'll burn your plants otherwise. If they are taking too much nutes, your pH will go up sharply and the PPM/TDS will fall off. Check for disease, or pests and if found, treat as early as possible. If disease gets bad, go down to a milder nutrient solution for 2 - 4 weeks until plants recover.

Next, for the flush, it's really your choice. If your Tap Water PPM is lower than about 40PPM or 0.05714285714285714 EC (see why it's easier for me?) then you can flush with just tap. If it's higher than about 110PPM or 0.15714285714285714 EC, then I suggest you go buy filtered bottled water. Either way, if you add a finisher, the choice is yours. Try without it once, then once with, to find your preference. As for the flavor, there is a debate on whether they can/do add flavors to your buds. When you start to flush is when you are looking at the THRICHS not the hairs/pistils, and you see that a small amount of them have gone cloudy. This lets you know that your plant is finishing its life. You have about 2 to 3 weeks before the chop, start the flush. Either completely clean water or water with a finisher should be used when you see about 10% cloudy and ZERO......NO NUTES at all. they will be stored in the buds and will taint the flavor with the taste of multi-vitamins, or other worse flavors..... like actual SHIT FLAVOR and smell. Believe me, my first run ever, I kept up the fish emulsion till the very end, and had to throw away 18.5LBS of shit-smelling/tasting bud when it was cured. Had a mota bonfire in the back yard. The neighbors asked me why I was burning cow shit . . . . . . . . . From that day on, I swore to never taint it with nutes and have to throw away bud.

ATAMI Wilson, hehehe, That is the reason I stay away from those -for ease of cleaning. I find that "Ebb & Flow" is the easiest to clean during a run with a "Drip" at a close second. This is simply because the res is a separate container from your drip tray. Also, the fact that they remain completely covered throughout a feeding cycle reduces the likelihood of foreign contaminants in the res. Check out my $40 DIY Ebb & Flow in my blog. The pump was the most expensive single item at 13 bucks.

Now, as for the products you mentioned as additives. I don't have experience with today's bloom boosters, I just usually stick with the basics and have never had any complaints. Besides, now that I'm in a much smaller space instead of the empty 3car garage I had before all these bloom boosters and fake nutes, (it was all about Miracle Grow for tomatoes, poop soup, fish emulsion, and superthrive) boosters are not a good idea for my space. Small, tight buds are more my style. I tend to stick to topping for lots of heads, and supercropping for strong stalks and full buds.

I hope this helps you come to a decision. It is kind of hard for me to follow your posts and I'm not sure that I got all of what you were trying to ask.

Oh, and let the missus know that the start-up is always the most expensive, your return will be better next run.

 

[Mark30g]

Awesome m8 answer so sorry for for the confusion please forgive lol, Newbies for you i suppose Sorry and thanx for the info as it was really helpful. Especially where plants are drinking more water than nutrients as of dehydration is it?.