Opinions and advice are welcome

Yes. It has been 30 days since the original post.
Some people say that you can't win this battle, but I'm determined
BTW, I experimented with a small plant. I sprayed everything, buds included with 1 to 9 alcohol water mixture. It killed everything but the plant. I kept it separate because I want to see how it affected the final product.
Tomorrow I will contact Sierra Natural and ask about immunity. as well as if I can use it in conjunction with their 209 soil drench. It's systemic. So I figure that it will protect upcoming plants.
Once again, thank you for getting involved.
I am running the 209 with every watering on my grows and I don't think it interferes with anything. Ask to be sure, but I think you will be ok. Never go by what some people say... some people will say anything just to sound important or worse case, to mess with you.
 
I am running the 209 with every watering on my grows and I don't think it interferes with anything. Ask to be sure, but I think you will be ok. Never go by what some people say... some people will say anything just to sound important or worse case, to mess with you.
Hi,
I had a lovely chat with the SNS people.
It is possible that in a perpetual grow like mine spider mites could develop immunity to certain pesticides. That is not the case in a seasonal grow, not enough time for exposure.
However, the key is not damage control, it's prevention.
I will be using the SNS 209 from now on. I will always continue to use the 217 until all the girls have had a chance to get the 209 in their system.
In my case, every time I open the garage door, I run the risk of the damn things crawling in. I have now surrounded my entire house with a sprinkle of DE. I told my neighbor is termite prevention, which is not a complete lie, as I had those as well.:peace::)
 
This issue seem to be spreading,
I now have 3 plants affected and the occasional leaf on others. I have not found a single live mite in three weeks, so I don't think that's the cause. Last week I also did my first soil drench with SNS 209.
I am adding calMag to water in addition to feedings.
The leaves are curling and drying . Plants still growing.. The leaves affected are random, although in the last pic is mostly the top.
The one think they have in common is that they are all sprayed every 3 days for mites. First with neem ( before flowering), and the ones flowering, with SNS 217.
I did that for two weeks.
Also humidity has spiked at night to 62% on occasion.
Tobacco mosaic virus???

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They look hungry... several deficiencies showing. Up the feed seems to be indicated, but it could be other things too. Hit them hard with your nutrients and give some cal mag. Don't be shy... lets see if we can green them back up.
Will do. I have been doing water, water water, feed.
They drink roughly every three days.
Going to: feed, water feed. Let see what happens.
Thank you
 
Soil. Happy Frog.
Allright. I'm going all in. F/W/F
I will keep you posted.
Thank you.


that's way better in HF.

too many water onlys in the frog and forest lines can wash wanted stuff out.
if you've been excessive on the water side i might start f/f/w then go to f/w/f/w.

it's late in the game but it should help
 
This discussion makes it seem like based on various conditions it is best to sometimes water one way and some other times water a different way.

Soil growing in closed containers needed a soil that was made for its special conditions. Potting soil was invented and had carefully designed in flow through and water retention rates that was way different than the typical soil outside in the garden. The original designers of potting soil wanted it to be robust enough to be able to retain enough water for several days of un-attended operation, just as a good garden bed surrounded by clay would do. They also needed soil to be able to retain a certain amount of nutrient ions so as to allow the roots to always be in contact with nutrient when wet, and then be able to self clean the system by adding water only on the next pass that allowed the plant to use the leftover nutrient ions stored in the soil, and effectively cleaning it for the next round. This Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) is very scientifically and carefully built into a good potting soil to hold just the right amount of nutes for that second pass.

Potting soils are scientifically designed to be used in a certain way, and that is commonly understood to mean giving nutes on one pass and then clean water to flush out the system on the next pass... f/w/f/w all through the grow. This keeps the soil clean and keeps lockouts at a minimum. Yes, it can be done in other ways and in certain circumstances it might serve better to use this tool we have been given in a different way, but with a heavy feeder like our fruiting weed, you get your most bang for the buck using the soil the way it was originally designed to be used.
 
Potting soils are scientifically designed to be used in a certain way, and that is commonly understood to mean giving nutes on one pass and then clean water to flush out the system on the next pass... f/w/f/w all through the grow. This keeps the soil clean and keeps lockouts at a minimum. Yes, it can be done in other ways and in certain circumstances it might serve better to use this tool we have been given in a different way, but with a heavy feeder like our fruiting weed, you get your most bang for the buck using the soil the way it was originally designed to be used.



amen.

not bucking but i push a bit with lighting and have a slightly more aggressive feeding approach depending on media.

however, that part of @Emilya 's quote on feeding bottle nutes in a neutralized soil is about bible.
 
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