Mayne
Well-Known Member
man, pretty warm. I water at 65F everytime. 23c should be the MAXIMUM, try to lower your temps of the water bro.. anything over that 23C, can totally stop nute uptake
Problem, what's wrong with my plant?
- Thread starter Simomas
- Start date
Just peat and perlite is a "soiless" grow. Peat retains about 20X it's weight in water, however, once it dries out it is extremely hydrophilic. Probably need to drop your PH (after adding CalMag, mix, wait 15 minutes, add nutes, mix, wait 15 minutes) and PH to about 5.8 to 6.1.
Make sure you check the undersides of the leaves for spider mites, those white/yellow spots concern me. Spider mites (the "Borg") thrive in tents/greenhouses, so be sure you didn't bring them into your grow area from outdoors.
Those water temps won't hurt anything, think about the wide range of temps spring/summer rain has. The optimum is 68 degrees for best nute uptake combined with O2%, but 10-15 degrees either way won't cause any issues. I use it at the water temp it is when it comes out of the hose (except I do let it run if the hose is in the sun). As soon as the water gets into the soil it's going to be real close to whatever temp the media is.
Mayne
Well-Known Member
peat holds very little O2, and hot water has very little o2, so both together make for bad grow conditions,
just sayin
just sayin
What's you source, cause maybe I've got it wrong?
I think you may be confusing the formation of peat with the moss media itself (or maybe I am), peat is just partially decomposed sphagnum moss. In the peat bogs the conditions are acidic and anaerobic, but once processed into what we buy the moss holds both moisture and O2 pretty well. It does eventually break down, and at that point is compacts and loses it's ability to hold O2 and drain.
"Often mixed with a mineral named perlite, it is highly valued by horticulturists for its ability to retain moisture and oxygen without becoming waterlogged or heavy."
- Thread starter
- #25
Ragazzi errore mio, non è semplice torba, è terriccio universale (contenente anche torba), a cui ho aggiunto della perlite
yanni420
Well-Known Member
looks overwateredHey guys, I grew this plant as an experiment, first in a yogurt glass, then in a Solo cup, and then, still being alive, I decided to transplant it into a 3 liter (1 gallon) airpot.
This plant has always been outdoor, and never got a lot of light, but as it was starting to get big I put it in my 40x40x120cm growbox and started a 12/12 light cycle, also to test my self-made light.
All this 4 days ago. The plant reacted well, growth continued and no signs of discomfort were shown.
Aside from today, when I got home from work, I find the leaves (the ones closest to the light) in this state:
Some leaves also have brown/black spots on the edges:
Unfortunately the place where I live is being attacked by a heat wave, and it is difficult to maintain the temperature inside the growbox, which in fact oscillates between 27.5 and 29.2C (80 - 84F). The humidity varies between 45 and 57%. I thought it might be too strong heat or light stress (I was going with 57W at 15/20cm distance).
So at the moment I lowered the power of the lamp and raised it to 30cm, I also added a fan inside the tent. The air intake is passive while I have the extractor always active.
- Thread starter
- #27
Hey guys, I'll update you
I removed one of the leaves most affected by what looks like necrosis, here are the photos
As I told you yesterday, I did a substrate wash based on this article: How to Diagnose and Correct High Electrical Conductivity (EC) in Cannabis
The photos are practically identical to mine, and even there we talk about leaf necrosis
Today the plant is still alive, the claw leaves are still present and the necrosis has advanced to other leaves as well
However, leaf development seems to have progressed, and the younger leaves appear to be less curled than yesterday.
Especially this one, when compared to the second and third photos posted yesterday, is less curled
I removed one of the leaves most affected by what looks like necrosis, here are the photos
As I told you yesterday, I did a substrate wash based on this article: How to Diagnose and Correct High Electrical Conductivity (EC) in Cannabis
The photos are practically identical to mine, and even there we talk about leaf necrosis
Today the plant is still alive, the claw leaves are still present and the necrosis has advanced to other leaves as well
Especially this one, when compared to the second and third photos posted yesterday, is less curled
Mayne
Well-Known Member
JMO, its beyond repair bro.
even if new growth is decent, it looks like every single leaf is dead. If you stripped it, and waited to fill back out, it will be a nightmare and time consuming, not to mention, the stress.
Id start over man,
even if new growth is decent, it looks like every single leaf is dead. If you stripped it, and waited to fill back out, it will be a nightmare and time consuming, not to mention, the stress.
Id start over man,
- Thread starter
- #29
I'll keep it another day or two and see how it goes, but yes, I had that impression too. The next cycle will be all indoors, and I'll try coco soir cultivation.
Mayne
Well-Known Member
Yeah, its unfortunate bro. Dont be afraid to reachout and ask for help with the coco coir. Just keep in mind, its a very hands on media, and needs daily attention to detail.
Wish you best of luck!
- Thread starter
- #31
Yes I have been informed enough about coco, but I will also make a diary here on the forum!
Translates to English as:
Guys my mistake, it is not simple peat, it is universal soil (also containing peat), to which I added some perlite
That sounds like it would be what we call a basic potting soil. That does not mean it is bad but it is not very good for a fast growing plant like Marijuana.
I believe the word you want is hydrophobic as in having a phobia about water which we see when the peat, or many soils, get excessively dry they will shed water as if someone sprayed the surface with oil or way.
The best way to water it is to give just a small amount, almost in the center near the stem. Do not use a lot and do not keep watering if it starts to come out the bottom. Then come back in 20 to 30 minutes and give a little bit more. Come back in another 20 to 30 minutes and do it again. It could take several attempts but eventually the soil & peat mix will have absorbed all the water it can. You will be able to watch it soaking into the soil working its way from the center to the edges. Before long you will be able to give it one big watering and letting a bit come out the bottom.
This is similar to what @Emilya mentions doing in many of her messages when she helps members with the same sort of problem with very dry soil. Our methods are very similar and either one will work, it takes a bit of practice.
Absolutely! I need to proof read better.
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