Problems, problems always bloody problems!

Opih8

Well-Known Member
Hiya kids,
Can anyone tell me if this is the kinda damage these pesky little fungus gnats can do ,or ,is it a deficiency ?? It’s a purple auto 3rd week flower - using biobizz gro, bloom , top max and big bud. Been using 1ml calmag in 2L.
Touch wood the normal plants in gro space still good .

E951A727-B88B-48F3-8A74-8A33040E3B92.jpeg


C44E7A9B-B99E-4C55-B4B3-BC27E8803F92.jpeg
 
Hiya kids,
Can anyone tell me if this is the kinda damage these pesky little fungus gnats can do ,or ,is it a deficiency ?? It’s a purple auto 3rd week flower - using biobizz gro, bloom , top max and big bud. Been using 1ml calmag in 2L.
Touch wood the normal plants in gro space still good .

E951A727-B88B-48F3-8A74-8A33040E3B92.jpeg


C44E7A9B-B99E-4C55-B4B3-BC27E8803F92.jpeg
I do not think gnats will do that mate. But To me, it looks like either Calcium or Manganese. Your pic isn't clear. What has the PH been? Check the Chart for which nutrient uptake is the highest at a certain ph range. They are Floating around but My sig is a place to start :D

ALSO: EDIT: Every problem you pass and defeat makes you smarter and wiser for the next grow. So go with it and learn. Google and Search on this forum is quite pleasing.
 
Can anyone tell me if this is the kinda damage these pesky little fungus gnats can do ,or ,is it a deficiency ?? It’s a purple auto 3rd week flower - using biobizz gro, bloom , top max and big bud. Been using 1ml calmag in 2L.
By the time we see Fungus Gnats flying around or landing on leaves they have become mature enough that they are getting ready to mate and lay a new batch of eggs just below the soil surface. It is the young gnats, the juveniles that look like little tiny maggots, that are the problem. Those little things will eat the very small roots and if there are enough of them eating they can weaken the plant.

... ,or ,is it a deficiency ??
Looks like a deficiency of available Calcium.

Been using 1ml calmag in 2L.
Is that the recommended amount shown on the bottle or bag? Reads like it is bit of a low or half dose. If it is a half dose then bump it up to what is recommended.
 
Yes, the blotches look a lot like Ca def
I used BB for a long time and always gave 1.5ml/L CaMg and reduced the Gro to a take account of the extra N in CaMg
Week 3 of flower 1.5 ml CaMg, 1-2ml Gro, 3-4ml Bloom /L
You could apply CaMg as a foliar feed, see what happens?
 
That looks like a classic calcium deficiency to me. What is the recommended cal/Mag application? If there's a range and you're not at the top end I'd increase it next feeding.
Yeah dude, if they hadn’t been getting given it at their recommended dose I would have reached for the cal mag ! The ph bounces about like a yo-yo every time it rains here (and bear in mind this is fucking Scotland man) and the calmag is heavy on the acidity so I have to check the ph damn near every feed . It can go from the present - sky blue (like lovely o.g E 🥹) to neutral in a day ! To say it gets frustrating as missing out about five swear words in between .
Anyway, quick question Should the biobizz grow & bloom in All-Mix soil not supply all the bloody base/trace nutes like manganese and boron ? Tbh it was iron for some reason (probably the rust spots) that I thought of when I saw it. 🤘
 
Yes, the blotches look a lot like Ca def
I used BB for a long time and always gave 1.5ml/L CaMg and reduced the Gro to a take account of the extra N in CaMg
Week 3 of flower 1.5 ml CaMg, 1-2ml Gro, 3-4ml Bloom /L
You could apply CaMg as a foliar feed, see what happens?
Cheers, With the pH issue in the area I live in I think I will be giving the foliar spray a miss tho lol
 
By the time we see Fungus Gnats flying around or landing on leaves they have become mature enough that they are getting ready to mate and lay a new batch of eggs just below the soil surface. It is the young gnats, the juveniles that look like little tiny maggots, that are the problem. Those little things will eat the very small roots and if there are enough of them eating they can weaken the plant.


Looks like a deficiency of available Calcium.


Is that the recommended amount shown on the bottle or bag? Reads like it is bit of a low or half dose. If it is a half dose then bump it up to what is recommended.
Hi Wings, recommended dose on calmag bottle & in middle of neeming + isoing the soil coz only few flying about, not enough to drag the hoover up and around for them lol
 
By the time we see Fungus Gnats flying around or landing on leaves they have become mature enough that they are getting ready to mate and lay a new batch of eggs just below the soil surface. It is the young gnats, the juveniles that look like little tiny maggots, that are the problem. Those little things will eat the very small roots and if there are enough of them eating they can weaken the plant.


Looks like a deficiency of available Calcium.


Is that the recommended amount shown on the bottle or bag? Reads like it is bit of a low or half dose. If it is a half dose then bump it up to what is recommended.
Hiya Mr Wings, I have asked this question before on site last year but was continually getting told ‘classic Borg’ etc, it was not !! fairly sure that it was high ph (strain specific ? ) — exact same radioactive look was on a watermelon og and after weeks of not seeing any damage to the other plants turned to ph levels and saw it was at 8.5 .after a while of giving its sisters the normal 7.2 and the 🍉 down to 6.5 all was good with my world again . This time it is that bloody Durban/Widow (is 6 weeks or so now ) so who knows !!
I’ve been putting some root juice (don’t know if it’ll help with the two plant root system but worth a go ) in its nute bottle along with biobizz grow at 6ml/L Las it’s the 2 plants in a (very nearly !) 30 L planter.
Btw is only affecting the bottom of one of the plants (in same pot) which is what makes me think it might be strain/type specific . Any ideas ? Btw I know pic is shit res but you should get the general idea man . Ta

F8D168CB-18B6-4218-B703-C52948EBD787.jpeg
 
Btw is only affecting the bottom of one of the plants (in same pot) which is what makes me think it might be strain/type specific . Any ideas ?
Even if there were two plants grown from two seeds from the same parent plant it would not be unusual to see one of the plants show a problem and not the other.

The photos might be out of focus because the camera is actually too close and it is enough. Next time try a picture when the camera is several inches further away. Then back up some more and try again.

The first photo shows a leaf with the classic bronze or brass colored spots which are common to a deficiency of Calcium. The other photo shows a leaf with yellow areas along the edges of the fingers. That could be a problem with a shortage of Phosphorous or Potassium so maybe start there. If the problem continues over the next week or two then consider somewhere else.
 
this text was copied from post 9 above

not seeing any damage to the other plants turned to ph levels and saw it was at 8.5 .after a while of giving its sisters the normal 7.2 and the 🍉 down to 6.5 all was good with my world again .

sounds like chasing ph may be one of your problems. Sometimes new growers will test their runoff ph and don’t like the numbers, so they mix another batch with really high ph value to get a different number coming out the bottom of container.

forget testing runoff ph, only worry about the numbers right before you feed the plant, It’s kind of like a person on a diet, you count calories coming in but you don’t check calories on the dark side of things.

Ph values are logarithmic so missing by a little is actually missing by a mile. Ph values for your liquids when using coco & hydro should be set at 5.8 but for soil growers your liquids should be set at 6.3

text copied from post 6 above

and the calmag is heavy on the acidity so I have to check the ph damn near every feed .

Ok so hopefully you can laugh…. it’s like taking your daily heart meds every 4th day. If you are going to fiddle with ph then do it every. single. time. Weed plants like consistency.

also what kind of device are you using to check ph?

alright my man, stick with us and we will get you sorted!!!
 
this text was copied from post 9 above

not seeing any damage to the other plants turned to ph levels and saw it was at 8.5 .after a while of giving its sisters the normal 7.2 and the 🍉 down to 6.5 all was good with my world again .

sounds like chasing ph may be one of your problems. Sometimes new growers will test their runoff ph and don’t like the numbers, so they mix another batch with really high ph value to get a different number coming out the bottom of container.

forget testing runoff ph, only worry about the numbers right before you feed the plant, It’s kind of like a person on a diet, you count calories coming in but you don’t check calories on the dark side of things.

Ph values are logarithmic so missing by a little is actually missing by a mile. Ph values for your liquids when using coco & hydro should be set at 5.8 but for soil growers your liquids should be set at 6.3

text copied from post 6 above

and the calmag is heavy on the acidity so I have to check the ph damn near every feed .

Ok so hopefully you can laugh…. it’s like taking your daily heart meds every 4th day. If you are going to fiddle with ph then do it every. single. time. Weed plants like consistency.

also what kind of device are you using to check ph?

alright my man, stick with us and we will get you sorted!!!
Cheers 13 , done hydro couple times & coco once - for whatever reasons I didn’t particularly like the end smoke from hydro (everything was done by the book just too many chems to flush methinks . As for coco - fuck!! I have enough problems keeping the ph ,ppm etc together with soil as it is lol. Never have bothered with run off (realistically coz I’ve always used BB all-mix or some other water retaining type so, as I never drench them , no run off to measure anyway! Used to use ph tester solution but it has for some reason become a rarity here in last couple years so using 20yrs experience of the water in my abode and a £10 ph meter at mo which I don’t have an enormous amount of faith in lol .Saluté
 
Happens to me everytime as well around week 6 flower. I think there is a big difference between LED's and the old Bulb lights, LED's seem to cause cal/mag deficiencies for some reason. So, for now, I'm upping my Cal-Mag feedings as the plant enters flower. I had hoped to use Dynagrow alone, but with my LED and setup, cal-mag is a must have. Ive tried too many times without (cal mag that is) and my leaves looked just like your picture.

Currently using Fox Farm Bush Doctor Cal Mag, and Sensi Cal Mag plus. (one for veg one for flower)... I do take it easy with this stuff though, I dont want to over do it. An occasional big feed, and then just small maintenance feeds along with nutrients.
 
Some nutrients don't need pH adjustment and are dosed ml/L
No Phosphoric Acid, pH pen or EC meter required
The ones I use are BIobizz grow (ph5.6) , Bloom (4.7) and Top max (3.5) - even with that acidity average of 4.6 I still have to use 4-5ml per L ph down coz the water is so alkaline at the moment (as I’ve stated before the ph where I am bounces about all over the place when it rains and this is fuckin Scotland man , it rains a lot ! Hence constantly having to figure out Firstly , always, if something looks off with plant(s) if the problem might be ph related.
 
Happens to me everytime as well around week 6 flower. I think there is a big difference between LED's and the old Bulb lights, LED's seem to cause cal/mag deficiencies for some reason. So, for now, I'm upping my Cal-Mag feedings as the plant enters flower. I had hoped to use Dynagrow alone, but with my LED and setup, cal-mag is a must have. Ive tried too many times without (cal mag that is) and my leaves looked just like your picture.

Currently using Fox Farm Bush Doctor Cal Mag, and Sensi Cal Mag plus. (one for veg one for flower)... I do take it easy with this stuff though, I dont want to over do it. An occasional big feed, and then just small maintenance feeds along with nutrients.
Hi dude, been using 1.5ml/L calmag (recommended on bottle is 0.5 -1ml/L ) you reckon I should up it more ? Still on the hps btw.
 
Even if there were two plants grown from two seeds from the same parent plant it would not be unusual to see one of the plants show a problem and not the other.

The photos might be out of focus because the camera is actually too close and it is enough. Next time try a picture when the camera is several inches further away. Then back up some more and try again.

The first photo shows a leaf with the classic bronze or brass colored spots which are common to a deficiency of Calcium. The other photo shows a leaf with yellow areas along the edges of the fingers. That could be a problem with a shortage of Phosphorous or Potassium so maybe start there. If the problem continues over the next week or two then consider somewhere else
Even if there were two plants grown from two seeds from the same parent plant it would not be unusual to see one of the plants show a problem and not the other.

The photos might be out of focus because the camera is actually too close and it is enough. Next time try a picture when the camera is several inches further away. Then back up some more and try again.

The first photo shows a leaf with the classic bronze or brass colored spots which are common to a deficiency of Calcium. The other photo shows a leaf with yellow areas along the edges of the fingers. That could be a problem with a shortage of Phosphorous or Potassium so maybe start there. If the problem continues over the next week or two then consider somewhere else.
Can you tell me , please, what’s the easiest/quickest way to get more potassium +/or phosphorus into the soil ? Ta.
 
Hi dude, been using 1.5ml/L calmag (recommended on bottle is 0.5 -1ml/L ) you reckon I should up it more ? Still on the hps btw.

Cant really answer that for you, Ive never used hps. I've heard using too much Cal Mag isnt good though as it can work against your Nutrients. As an example, I use Dynagrow and they say that Cal Mag isnt needed, the nutrients alone are supposed to provide plenty. Ive found that with LED's a little extra Cal mag is needed.... Its tricky !

Probably better to listen to someone else though, I'm still struggling with deficiencies mid to late flower....Im probably not the best to give advice until I get myself sorted out. Your leaves do look exactly like mine though---and to add to this, all the pictures I look at concerning deficiencies in Calcium, Magnesium, Over Watering, underwatering, P- and K look very similar. A nitrogen deficiency is pretty eaasy to spot, but all the others are hard for me to nail down....(especially if you have more than one deficiency at a time)
 
BTI takes care of Fungus Gnats, easily. (if they are fungus gnats).. If the flies are Aphids, thats another story (a horror story)

This is a must have product.... I wouldnt grow without... Mosquito Bits, You soak a tablespoon of pellets into a gallon of water, wait an hour or so then water your plants. No chemicals, no worries using it anytime and it will kill Fungus Gnats quicky. Aphids are another story, so make sure you know whats flying around. (fungus gnats are very common) Sadly so are Aphids and the fliers look a lot like fungus gnats.



mosquitobits_8oz.jpg
 
Yes the bti is definitely the best solution for fungus gnats. I bought some small mesh zipper aquarium bags that I use like teabags so that I don't have to fight with the little nuggets in the bottle after watering (also don't end up with them all over the soil molding either).
 
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