To me ... it appears your plants are canabalizing themselves looking for nutrients since Coco has none.
Seedlings looking unhappy and unhealthy
- Thread starter AppleBucket
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- #22
AppleBucket
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The coco is coco mix from biobizz, I asked if I had to buffer it but they said I did not. Idk if this helps but I was given the impression it needed no buffer and was good to go. Do I need to take any further steps to ensure this doesn't happen again?
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- #23
AppleBucket
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Also I just seen this reply.. My bad. Do you have a good recommendation for a coco? Maybe something I don't have to buffer or similar
one is soil one is coco both different inputs of ph and feeding scales
its just over priced coco you got , so you feed daily at 5.6-5.8 veg up 5.9-.6.0 flower
some people soak the coco over night to get the ph right before starting of, your coco is HYDRO
its just over priced coco you got , so you feed daily at 5.6-5.8 veg up 5.9-.6.0 flower
some people soak the coco over night to get the ph right before starting of, your coco is HYDRO
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- #25
AppleBucket
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Oh.. This is worrying as I read its a scale of 5.8-6.2.. Maybe we have just found the problem and I have be using the wrong pH water.. Can you confirm this?one is soil one is coco both different inputs of ph and feeding scales
its just over priced coco you got , so you feed daily at 5.6-5.8 veg up 5.9-.6.0 flower
some people soak the coco over night to get the ph right before starting of, your coco is HYDRO
If so I'm about to feel realllly stupid
loads mix the feeding charts up , coco is classed as soilless/ HYDRO 
you feed daily at 1/4 strength not plain water as coco doesn't hold nutes for long they wash out , look to the left side of the chart , 5.6/5.8 is good for starting even a once off at 5.5 for some iron , then move to 5.8 stick there for a bit 
you feed daily at 1/4 strength not plain water as coco doesn't hold nutes for long they wash out , look to the left side of the chart , 5.6/5.8 is good for starting even a once off at 5.5 for some iron , then move to 5.8 stick there for a bit - Thread starter
- #27
AppleBucket
Active Member
Im going to try this now with my auto and my photo.. At this point I'm basically using my Autos as test subjects meanwhile giving all my love to my photoperiod. Thank you so much man for the help as well as everyone else who chipped in along the way! This is the first forum iv signed up to to look to improve / ask for help and it's really given me a lot of hope.loads mix the feeding charts up , coco is classed as soilless/ HYDRO
If you guys have any other ideas as well feel free to keep adding as I'll check up on the post still but I'll try applying everything I learned here. Truly an amazing community!
i would take them out put in smaller pots , run a 1/8 strength feed at 5.6 with loads of run off semi flush , also your coco looks like it is very fluffy , you can see where you watered ,that will be the size of the root ball , you have to treat like a small pot and work out , ( does that make sense ) make the roots look for food that is why you feed low for a while, but always make sure there is run off out the bottom ,
i firm my coco down more compressed than fluffy so there is no air pockets
aslo i add 30 percent perlite as it always did better
i firm my coco down more compressed than fluffy so there is no air pockets
aslo i add 30 percent perlite as it always did better
with my clumsy hands i had to replant it every time , it might do ok ive seen some bounce back, time will tell
A buffer would be something like Dolomite Lime to control pH. I don't think buffers have much to do with feeding nutrients. I may be wrong on this as I don't have a deep understanding on this as of yet. It simply means if your Nute pH is between 6.0 - 7.0 for soil you don't have to worry about pH-ing to 6.4 as the lime will do it for you.
Does the bag say anything about Nutrients in it & No Need to Feed for 6 - 8 weeks ? Does it have ingredients like Bat Guano, Fish Kelp, etc. ? If not you need nutes. If it does have nutes, they will only last 3 - 4 weeks at most. They exaggerate a little.
i am sure its just ORGANIC coco,
buffering is soil and soilless peat moss mix they add lime so when you ph with acidic nutes or fixing a low ph going in
the lime helps the fluids/ meduim go back up to higher 6s and 7s ,it takes longer for the lime to kick in so its a good buffer
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- #32
AppleBucket
Active Member
So I transplanted one auto into a biodegradable pot yesterday and gave it a full strength feeding at 5.7 and I don't know if I'm imagining things but when I checked on it this morning the newer leaves are looking fuller, no further browning or yellowing and and the new leaves had actually grown a little bit. I think having them in their final pot (which was too big for so early on) + not giving it a good proper feeding was my problem.. I could be imagining things but ill check to make sure and keep track of progress.. Maybe also in future I will avoid autos and go with photos just to make my life a little bit easier.
Atleast until I'm a bit more experienced.
dont give full strength ever its the companies that want you to do that SO THEY SELL MORE
1/4 babies , 1/2 vegies , work up they have little roots and they can burn and get over loaded quick
keep an eye on the leaf tips now
1/4 babies , 1/2 vegies , work up they have little roots and they can burn and get over loaded quick
keep an eye on the leaf tips now
i hope you have it fixed , keep us updated they are tough plants TBH
they are tough plants TBH
Sounds like you are getting back on track. Looking forward to see how it goes.
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- #36
AppleBucket
Active Member
Thanks guys! Will keep you updated as soon as I confirm its not just my imagination.
Really appreciative of all the help and time you guys spent to troubleshoot the problem.
Really appreciative of all the help and time you guys spent to troubleshoot the problem.
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- #38
AppleBucket
Active Member
Hey everyone!
So I followed everyone's advice and decided to water at 5.8 pH, give them a stronger feeding and water them more often.
They showed good signs of growth and the stunted phase stopped a little thankfully but then my leaves are started looking ill, I thought at first I burned them but I was giving them near full recommended strength, like 3/4 strength.
I noticed my stems are slightly purple/reddish which I read was nitrogen deficiency and my leaves that have grown in are already suffering.
Im assuming it could be something either potassium, phosphorus or nitrogen some mobile nutrient deficiency as its always the older leaves.
I feel I'm making a massive mess of everything and I'm only putting effort into these plants so I can use them to make sure I learn from my mistakes and don't continue to mess up any future grows.
What does the problem look like to you guys?
If you need anymore info let me know
So I followed everyone's advice and decided to water at 5.8 pH, give them a stronger feeding and water them more often.
They showed good signs of growth and the stunted phase stopped a little thankfully but then my leaves are started looking ill, I thought at first I burned them but I was giving them near full recommended strength, like 3/4 strength.
I noticed my stems are slightly purple/reddish which I read was nitrogen deficiency and my leaves that have grown in are already suffering.
Im assuming it could be something either potassium, phosphorus or nitrogen some mobile nutrient deficiency as its always the older leaves.
I feel I'm making a massive mess of everything and I'm only putting effort into these plants so I can use them to make sure I learn from my mistakes and don't continue to mess up any future grows.
What does the problem look like to you guys?
If you need anymore info let me know
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- #39
AppleBucket
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I must say, I suspect nitrogen deficiency but I'm unsure.
I feed fish mix from bio bizz which is supposed to be a good source of nitrogen
I feed fish mix from bio bizz which is supposed to be a good source of nitrogen
