The perfect LED grow light?

I agree with you. I have an 1100k deep-far red cob. I turn mine on for about 30min before lights out and 30 after lights on. I've seen no difference in flowering times whatsoever.

It sound kind of generic, but I think the perfect growlight is the one that is perfect for your environment. There is a guy I know that grows underground in two 4x4s and a 5x5. He grows beautiful plants, still using 1000w hps to this very day... moral being that those are the perfect lights for him.

My perfect light, in my current tent (32"x48"x60"), would be what I have now which is 2 qb288 V1s in 4000k, (now the part I dont have) plus 4 65w boards in 2700k attached to my light and angled about 5° upwards. This would result in perfect flowering coverage, just crank up the 2700k when I hit flowering. No need for fancy apps and computer stuff in my world.

Actually going to be getting 2 65w qb120s, one in 2700k and one in 3000k, to test which spectrum would be the best to mix with my 4000k boards.
i can personally tell you, Far-red for night initiation is infact not BS,

it MUST be ONLY 730NM red, for as little as 30 seconds is all it takes to knock the chicks out cold for the night. Ive done 14 hours on, 10hours off, and still flowers, simply because of the red night light.

the perfect light, would have sidelighting curtains or arms to crossfire the canopy, maybe even with a slow rotation to it. My nexzt idea is a grow on a lazy susan or whatever the heck they call them, or better known as a turntable with controlable speed.
 
i can personally tell you, Far-red for night initiation is infact not BS,

it MUST be ONLY 730NM red, for as little as 30 seconds is all it takes to knock the chicks out cold for the night. Ive done 14 hours on, 10hours off, and still flowers, simply because of the red night light.

the perfect light, would have sidelighting curtains or arms to crossfire the canopy, maybe even with a slow rotation to it. My nexzt idea is a grow on a lazy susan or whatever the heck they call them, or better known as a turntable with controlable speed.
Perfect for a stepper motor.
 
For me it's a uniform very even 800ppfd of full spectrum light over the whole canopy.
I am about to buy parts and build my own LED in a couple weeks.

It appears to me that strip lights will give the most even coverage.
So iam going to build one using PLC Photoboost strips.
8 of them should be about 330w

nice lights, Open arms for anything PLC for that fact, but those strips are nice, and seem to be growing nicely at the moment. and he has them cranked to 1200PAR and no burning yet. ( im sure your following his grow) lol..
 
Perfect for a stepper motor.
hey Old Salt, im assumeing it pauses with a set timer or something?

It was just an idea i had a few weeks ago. I was thinking something silly like, get 6000K at 800-1000PAR then hits 800 PAR of 2000K then 800 PAR of 4100K, while rotating like a pizza oven. Light would be in 3 parts, like a pie graph, cut into 3rds. Rotating at a 1 revolution every 5 minutes or so. So, it would bake for so long in the strong PAR, where as, you cant give the plant all the specturm at 3000PAR, Soooooo, wondering what the effect of something like this would be.

Brought to you by, " Tokers Moments ",, Tinnnnngg*





lol
 
hey Old Salt, im assumeing it pauses with a set timer or something?

Not needed. I'd gear it down and pulse it slowly, so I'd get one turn of the plant every twelve hours. You could turn several plants with one stepper. An ATmega328P with a driver would handle it without a problem.
 
Not needed. I'd gear it down and pulse it slowly, so I'd get one turn of the plant every twelve hours. You could turn several plants with one stepper. An ATmega328P with a driver would handle it without a problem.
awesome man, thanks, will definitely look into it.
 
I agree with you. I have an 1100k deep-far red cob. I turn mine on for about 30min before lights out and 30 after lights on. I've seen no difference in flowering times whatsoever.

It has to be only Far Red, a chip like that ''should'' be used as a booster for flowering along with the main 12/12 light.



For me it's a uniform very even 800ppfd of full spectrum light over the whole canopy.
I am about to buy parts and build my own LED in a couple weeks.

It appears to me that strip lights will give the most even coverage.
So iam going to build one using PLC Photoboost strips.
8 of them should be about 330w

I'd go with original Samsung strips if I were you ;)



Ive done 14 hours on, 10hours off, and still flowers, simply because of the red night light.

Actually the Far Red light has little to do with this, once the flowering hormone Florigen has set in the plant will continue to flower regardless of the light cycle, it will only reveg/herm if stressed.

Used by outdoor growers in northern climates, where plants are vegged up indoors and put outside at spring equinox, it will flower through the 18/6 high summer and reveg once the buds are cut from the plant, and it might yield two harvests if the autumn weather is decent.

Also useable indoors; ie. you can go 18/6 last 4 weeks of flower, lower the PPFD by 1/3 and get the same DLI, and you can start vegging new plants in the same room/tent ;)

The Far Red light will make it possible to start flowering on 14/10, might work with even more light hours because 14/10 can also work without the Far Red.
 
I had a saltwater reef tank. They make some sick lights. Those are all for coral so likely a grow spectrum. They have all those timers snd dimmer features too. I know youre all dreaming / building here, just thought id throw that in here.
 
it MUST be ONLY 730NM red,
It has to be only Far Red, a chip like that ''should'' be used as a booster for flowering along with the main 12/12 light.
Thank you guys. Makes perfect sense now why I had no discernible results with this chip used the way I was using it.
 
Nah, I dont think so.
The Photoboost strips are the same top bin LM301b diodes but also has Cree 660nm red diodes and those are put on a much better board that's at least twice as thick.
I have the strips with LM301B's and can attest to their functionality although I wouldn't call them photoboost. Right now my Costco cookie sheet lights are 6 inches away from my plants. See sig on that. Seriously, They are working better than I expected. The light I built is on PAR with the HLG 550 V2. I reverse engineered it. And the plants are loving it..... I think what would be nice for a turn table is a figure 8 pattern with the plants rotating as they move along the conveyor belt.
 
I have the strips with LM301B's and can attest to their functionality although I wouldn't call them photoboost. Right now my Costco cookie sheet lights are 6 inches away from my plants. See sig on that. Seriously, They are working better than I expected. The light I built is on PAR with the HLG 550 V2. I reverse engineered it. And the plants are loving it..... I think what would be nice for a turn table is a figure 8 pattern with the plants rotating as they move along the conveyor belt.
The "Photoboost " comes from the Cree 660nm red LEDs installed on the boards with the LM301B
 
More than double the thickness so it dissipates heat better

Ahh OK now I understand :)
You need a heatsink in any case so the thickness of the strip is irrelevant.

Thicker doesn't mean better build, and I would balls out trust Samsung's building abilities over PLC's anyday + you can actually buy the Samsung strips when you want - no signing up for a non specified future delivery...

If you want to add red, far red, blue etc. you can get color specific strips from Cutter, or look at other strip brands that mix white and colors that actually have things in stock.



The "Photoboost " comes from the Cree 660nm red LEDs installed on the boards with the LM301B

If the LM301b diodes are 3000K and you add a few 660nm diodes you get 2700K at best, it's just marketing calling it photoboost, nothing special about it at all.
 
Ahh OK now I understand :)
You need a heatsink in any case so the thickness of the strip is irrelevant.

Thicker doesn't mean better build, and I would balls out trust Samsung's building abilities over PLC's anyday + you can actually buy the Samsung strips when you want - no signing up for a non specified future delivery...

If you want to add red, far red, blue etc. you can get color specific strips from Cutter, or look at other strip brands that mix white and colors that actually have things in stock.





If the LM301b diodes are 3000K and you add a few 660nm diodes you get 2700K at best, it's just marketing calling it photoboost, nothing special about it at all.

Well that's your opinion and you're entitled to it.
I personally would prefer a much more substantial board, it does make a difference IMO.

I don't know anything about the PLC boards quality control and neither do you so I will hold my judgement on that until I know.

Sounds to me like you just have a grievance because they are a fledgling company that's had a couple production setbacks.

Oh well.

Thanks for the suggestion but from what I can tell they are exactly what I am looking for in form and function, they have top quality diodes, a much thicker board which is better IMO and I am not in some huge hurry as I currently have functional lights and don't have any problem waiting for a quality product.
And no the spectrum is not the same as a 2700k diode
 
Came across this and think it demonstrates some views of where the LED trends are heading. Preset configurations, additional dimming/ spectrum control/ customizable diode ratios and outputs, automation, etc..

 
I just thought of a good feature...

Mount the power supplies in a plug-in module. As an option sell a Remote Power Supply kit with a mount for the module, and a cable to connect it to the fixture. This would allow us to move the heat generated by these units out of confined grow spaces such as tents.

I can hear the high end manufacturers now. "Darn! Why didn't I think of that?"
 
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