What’s wrong with my auto?

GreyGodz

Active Member
Hey guys, I used to use this forum a few years ago but I forgot the email I used for my last account. I have 1 outdoor plant under my belt and have decided to try indoor. I am slowly building my tent and have 1 Speed skunk auto growing.

Lights: 2x 130W CFL’s

Soil: mix of compost, peat moss, vermiculite and perlite

Nutrients: Advanced nutrients line

I was following a nutrient guide I found online and the guy seemed to have good results, it’s currently 2 and a half weeks old. At 2 weeks I added 0.5ml ea of grow/bloom/micro per litre of water as the guide said and noticed nute burn the next day or two so I flushed my pot with Ph’d water until I felt enough had dropped out. 5 days later she looks like this and isn’t getting any better by the looks of it, she is still growing but I don’t want this to get worse.

It could be a few things but I am not sure which, either nute burn, a deficiency, light burn, heat burn (my tent can get hot at times, waiting on a fan and a LED light I purchased).

Thanks in advance!
 

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What is your ph? I don't know your grow media which is a mix of multiple things but often I ve seen that most of the troubles were coming from bad ph and overwatering
 
What is your ph? I don't know your grow media which is a mix of multiple things but often I ve seen that most of the troubles were coming from bad ph and overwatering

Hey mate thanks for the quick reply! I ph’d my water to roughly around 6.5 give or take slightly. I have a liquid drip test so it’s hard to get a 100% accurate reading. I should’ve checked the run off when I flushed my pot to see what it was coming out as. Overwatering could be it, when I flushed I had to soak the pot and it’s still quite heavy 4-5 days later, when I gave it nutrients that was the first watering I gave it since sprouting and it was fine before then.
 
Hey mate thanks for the quick reply! I ph’d my water to roughly around 6.5 give or take slightly. I have a liquid drip test so it’s hard to get a 100% accurate reading. I should’ve checked the run off when I flushed my pot to see what it was coming out as. Overwatering could be it, when I flushed I had to soak the pot and it’s still quite heavy 4-5 days later, when I gave it nutrients that was the first watering I gave it since sprouting and it was fine before then.

Why 6.5? Have you checked? Somewhere that it s a good value for your grow medium? Just a question as I don't know what would be the best value for you. For example in coco I try to always water at ph5.8. Then it slides up in general to go back to the grow medium value (around 6.2 in my case). Try to look further. Then keep it low on the watering as you mentioned. It maybe the first cause of trouble when growing
 
Why 6.5? Have you checked? Somewhere that it s a good value for your grow medium? Just a question as I don't know what would be the best value for you. For example in coco I try to always water at ph5.8. Then it slides up in general to go back to the grow medium value (around 6.2 in my case). Try to look further. Then keep it low on the watering as you mentioned. It maybe the first cause of trouble when growing

I don’t want to advertise the site it may be a sponsor but i’m not 100% sure. The page I got my soil medium mix from said that the perfect ph for the mix is between 6.2-6.5 so that’s just what I went with, if the problem isn’t anything I listed above and is definitely a PH or overwatering problem I might just see how it goes over the next week or so and wait for my pot to dry out. First attempt in years so I expected to run into problems but not this soon! Haha
 
Wondering why the plant is so close to the edge of the pot? I grow in soil and often have to lighten the mix with perlite/coir/pro-mix for autos...they sometimes seem to want a lighter mixture (of my high brix soil). So I am wondering if you are overdoing it with the added nutrients in addition to the soil composition? Overwatering is always an issue, but from the pics it looks like something more than that...

:goodluck:
 
Wondering why the plant is so close to the edge of the pot? I grow in soil and often have to lighten the mix with perlite/coir/pro-mix for autos...they sometimes seem to want a lighter mixture (of my high brix soil). So I am wondering if you are overdoing it with the added nutrients in addition to the soil composition? Overwatering is always an issue, but from the pics it looks like something more than that...

:goodluck:

Hey mate thanks for the reply, she’s growing from the middle of the pot I originally started her inside next to my window so she stretched quite a lot, I decided to do some LST that’s why it looks like I planted her on the side of the pot :p.My soil contains 3 parts peat moss, 3 parts compost, 2 parts perlite and 1 part vermiculite. I was following THIS. From what you guys have said I think it is nute burn/overwatering since I had to flush the pot. The new growth seems to be okay, my plans to not water/add any nutes until the pots completely dry and see how she goes.

Edit: also I just remembered I added some calmag to the water too, I didn’t realise it contained nitrogen, could be nitrogen toxicity?
 
I was following THIS.
You mostly followed that...I kept reading and it said:

"GO EASY ON THE FERTILIZER Autoflowering strains are usually short and compact, a genetic trait stemming from the ruderalis subspecies. This characteristic, along with their rapid growth times, means that autoflowering strains don’t actually need that many additional nutrients.

Most autos will only stay in the vegetative phase for a short period of time, meaning they won’t require a huge amount of veg nutrients like nitrogen. Adding too much can actually burn autoflowering strains, so feed them conservatively.

During the seedling phase, your autoflowering plants won’t need any nutrients. Growers can start supplementing with nutrients about 2 weeks into the grow, but should do so lightly to avoid damaging the crop.

Even during the flowering phase, autoflowering varieties don’t need a huge amount of extra food. Bloom nutrients and boosters can still be applied, but with a less-is-more approach. Pay close attention to your crop and apply when you deem necessary."

I think that is good advice. I work hard to get my soil to a point where it has most of the nutrients needed, and then add fish fert in the late stages if it looks like it needs it. But, in the first 6 weeks I let the auto grow on it's own w/o adding anything. If the compost you used was decent, it should provide sufficient nutrients for 2-3 weeks. I have killed autos with too many nutrients...so you might be right to leave it without any feeding for a while and see how it goes.

:goodluck:
 
You mostly followed that...I kept reading and it said:

"GO EASY ON THE FERTILIZER Autoflowering strains are usually short and compact, a genetic trait stemming from the ruderalis subspecies. This characteristic, along with their rapid growth times, means that autoflowering strains don’t actually need that many additional nutrients.

Most autos will only stay in the vegetative phase for a short period of time, meaning they won’t require a huge amount of veg nutrients like nitrogen. Adding too much can actually burn autoflowering strains, so feed them conservatively.

During the seedling phase, your autoflowering plants won’t need any nutrients. Growers can start supplementing with nutrients about 2 weeks into the grow, but should do so lightly to avoid damaging the crop.

Even during the flowering phase, autoflowering varieties don’t need a huge amount of extra food. Bloom nutrients and boosters can still be applied, but with a less-is-more approach. Pay close attention to your crop and apply when you deem necessary."

I think that is good advice. I work hard to get my soil to a point where it has most of the nutrients needed, and then add fish fert in the late stages if it looks like it needs it. But, in the first 6 weeks I let the auto grow on it's own w/o adding anything. If the compost you used was decent, it should provide sufficient nutrients for 2-3 weeks. I have killed autos with too many nutrients...so you might be right to leave it without any feeding for a while and see how it goes.

:goodluck:

Your post will be useful for my next grow! I may grow auto but still not sure cause of fear they stay too short...
 
You mostly followed that...I kept reading and it said:

"GO EASY ON THE FERTILIZER Autoflowering strains are usually short and compact, a genetic trait stemming from the ruderalis subspecies. This characteristic, along with their rapid growth times, means that autoflowering strains don’t actually need that many additional nutrients.

Most autos will only stay in the vegetative phase for a short period of time, meaning they won’t require a huge amount of veg nutrients like nitrogen. Adding too much can actually burn autoflowering strains, so feed them conservatively.

During the seedling phase, your autoflowering plants won’t need any nutrients. Growers can start supplementing with nutrients about 2 weeks into the grow, but should do so lightly to avoid damaging the crop.

Even during the flowering phase, autoflowering varieties don’t need a huge amount of extra food. Bloom nutrients and boosters can still be applied, but with a less-is-more approach. Pay close attention to your crop and apply when you deem necessary."

I think that is good advice. I work hard to get my soil to a point where it has most of the nutrients needed, and then add fish fert in the late stages if it looks like it needs it. But, in the first 6 weeks I let the auto grow on it's own w/o adding anything. If the compost you used was decent, it should provide sufficient nutrients for 2-3 weeks. I have killed autos with too many nutrients...so you might be right to leave it without any feeding for a while and see how it goes.

:goodluck:
I did read that but I thought I was following it correctly as it says “Growers can start supplementing with nutrients about 2 weeks into the grow, but should do so lightly to avoid damaging the crop.” I never used any nutes on my first grow so I thought 0.5ml per L was a small amount I guess the guy who posted the feeding schedule was using coco or something on the lines of that which has 0 nutes in it - or I fucked it up somehow which is very likely haha.

Thanks mate I appreciate it, what’s fish fert btw? I’m using this grow as a learning curve I will definitely not use any to little nutes (when needed) next plant. Will keep this updated! She seems to be pushing through with a few battle wounds atm.
 
Your post will be useful for my next grow! I may grow auto but still not sure cause of fear they stay too short...

You can get some ridiculous auto strains these days! Definitely have a look around you will be sure to find something that grows quite large.
 
You can get some ridiculous auto strains these days! Definitely have a look around you will be sure to find something that grows quite large.

Yeah I know there are monsters like amnesia auto XXL etc... But I need to find an auto like my green crack photo. I can't seem to find a Sativa dominant green crack auto. I need something fruity with big yields
 
I did read that but I thought I was following it correctly as it says “Growers can start supplementing with nutrients about 2 weeks into the grow, but should do so lightly to avoid damaging the crop.” I never used any nutes on my first grow so I thought 0.5ml per L was a small amount I guess the guy who posted the feeding schedule was using coco or something on the lines of that which has 0 nutes in it - or I fucked it up somehow which is very likely haha.

Thanks mate I appreciate it, what’s fish fert btw? I’m using this grow as a learning curve I will definitely not use any to little nutes (when needed) next plant. Will keep this updated! She seems to be pushing through with a few battle wounds atm.
Organic fish fertilizer is a liquid you can get pretty much anywhere. I use a brand called Neptunes Harvest, but there are many and they all probably work the same. Basically it is a protein shake for your plant...stinks like hell! I usually add a capful in my watering every 2-3 time once I notice the plant looking hungry. Strains vary, so how much each needs depends on your judgement. I think the 2 weeks was a guesstimate and early imo. Also depends on the growing medium. My soil is potent and some strains thrive in it and some burn up. Only way for me to know is to run them and watch and learn. But the ones that like it get all they need well into flowering and often I don't even have to add fish fert.
 
Yeah I know there are monsters like amnesia auto XXL etc... But I need to find an auto like my green crack photo. I can't seem to find a Sativa dominant green crack auto. I need something fruity with big yields
Autos, per plant, won't give you big yields. You need to tweak the math and look at growing more autos in the same space to get a equal or larger yield than X (whatever your expectations are). I don't grow autos for yield...I started growing them because I was a noobie and had no clue! (auto/photo/wtf?!). I continue to grow them because they fit into my schedule: its legal for me, but I can only have 6x flowering plants at time. In the summer, I grow 6x autos in June/July/Aug and harvest before my 6x photos hit flower. However, I have found that even with the longest days in my area the autos never seem to get enough light (compared to being under constant 18/6 lights). So, the summer auto grow is a bonus and I don't sweat it. I grow them in the winter under 18/6 because my grow space is 50F/10C and the lights running (plus heating mats) keep the plants where they want to be @78F.

So, I think there is much to like about autos and photos...depends on what works for you.:)
 
Autos, per plant, won't give you big yields. You need to tweak the math and look at growing more autos in the same space to get a equal or larger yield than X (whatever your expectations are). I don't grow autos for yield...I started growing them because I was a noobie and had no clue! (auto/photo/wtf?!). I continue to grow them because they fit into my schedule: its legal for me, but I can only have 6x flowering plants at time. In the summer, I grow 6x autos in June/July/Aug and harvest before my 6x photos hit flower. However, I have found that even with the longest days in my area the autos never seem to get enough light (compared to being under constant 18/6 lights). So, the summer auto grow is a bonus and I don't sweat it. I grow them in the winter under 18/6 because my grow space is 50F/10C and the lights running (plus heating mats) keep the plants where they want to be @78F.

So, I think there is much to like about autos and photos...depends on what works for you.:)

Thanks for sharing. I started with auto but ended with photos as they can heal during veg when bad things happen when at the first stress the auto will immediately starts flowering and may end super short. But the man thing for me would be able to use my grow room whenever I want without being restricted by the 12/12 timer during flowering. If you have time take a look at my current grow and tell me if you thing this setup would work as well in terms of yields with autos
 
when bad things happen when at the first stress the auto will immediately starts flowering and may end super short
I've never seen that...my experience is autos flower on their own internal clock, not external stimuli.
the main thing for me would be able to use my grow room whenever I want without being restricted by the 12/12 timer during flowering
That is a major positive for autos...I am currently running 5x autos in a 4x4 on different timelines (of growth/planting)...this allows me to start seedlings which will take the place of the harvested autos in a seamless cycle. You can the center pot has a 2 week old seedling which is getting the same lighting and will be rotated into the Bloody Skunk (purple one) slot.

I just looked (briefly) at your Journal and you have @Pennywise on there so you have excellent guidance!
 
I've never seen that...my experience is autos flower on their own internal clock, not external stimuli.

That is a major positive for autos...I am currently running 5x autos in a 4x4 on different timelines (of growth/planting)...this allows me to start seedlings which will take the place of the harvested autos in a seamless cycle. You can the center pot has a 2 week old seedling which is getting the same lighting and will be rotated into the Bloody Skunk (purple one) slot.

I just looked (briefly) at your Journal and you have @Pennywise on there so you have excellent guidance!

Man thank you for sharing that much! You plants size look perfect for me regarding my space is way smaller. Regarding your remarks I guess it depends a bit on each one experience. I know they say not top top autos for a reason. They flower fast and can start flowering faster in case of stress. What I mean is that if you want good size plants with auto you need to ensure not making anything that could slow them down. It s the hard part as even after 3 grows I ve learnt that shits can happen hahaha. Photos make it easier. But my current grow is making confident so I think autos will be my next run. I ve already auto pineapple glue in my crosshair
 
I know they say not top top autos for a reason.
I top most of my autos...in the pic above 3 our of 4 (one grew strange so I let it go) are topped, including the Bloody in front. It does keep them shorter which worked very well for me last winter where my maximum plant height (restriction) was about 30". I've also found with topping that it is easier to LST.
 
I top most of my autos...in the pic above 3 our of 4 (one grew strange so I let it go) are topped, including the Bloody in front. It does keep them shorter which worked very well for me last winter where my maximum plant height (restriction) was about 30". I've also found with topping that it is easier to LST.

Yes I should have precised I ve seen lots of members growing wonderful even quad-lined auto. But I also know they are skilled growers that rarely have any single sick leaf on any plant. It s important to grow the more out of an auto. I ll give it a try I need to be more confident in my skills. Thank you again for your sharing my friend
 
It could be a few things but I am not sure which, either nute burn, a deficiency, light burn, heat burn

Good advice here. I'll jump in: flush them heavily with pH corrected water (2 gallons, 1 each an hour apart), then get a soil moisture meter and don't water again until soil registers "dry". This should take care of any nute burn. The soil meter will help you refrain overwatering in the future. Then start a nute program for autos. I came up with the following chart, modified from FF suggested feeding schedule for photos (my apologies to FF). Perhaps it will help.

Auto-Flower Soil Feeding Schedule.jpg
 
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