What Have I Done Now? Golden Leaves

[ExNavyInSTL]

I woke up to the leaves, looking almost golden.

It's only on one side of the plant.

This is Day 43 above the ground.

She is in a SIP Bucket, in 60/40 Coco and Perlite.

She is on FloraFlex. The recipe says it should be an E.C. 3.0. That seems hot to me, so I diluted solution to 2.5.

I've been very careful with pH.

It came on really fast. There was no visible sign of this change last night.

Her DLI is around 30. Temps and humidity are also ideal.

I did give her a mono-silic acid foliar yesterday, but that seems pretty inert.

What say you?

 

[Roy Growin]

I'd go with your instinct - I don't use an EC meter or those nutes, but that does sound way too rich, or a hotspot somewhere down there
You got a bit of claw, perhaps the discolouration is excess of your particular line of nutes' formula

 

[TheMadDabber]

I would agree the ec over 3x too high. If you're following the recommended doage you're npk ratio is likely ok, just too much food. This can cause a lockout and it looks like that twisting and yellowing is a result of the over feeding. Because it's localized I was going to ask about fan placement and light distance, but sounds like just too much nutes. Super easy fix. I would reset with a 1.1.1 npk ratio at something VERY low ppm. 350 to 450 (.5-.6 ec) reset meaning you'll want to put at least a gallon or 2 of that solution through your coco to properly reset your nutrient load the substrate may be holding onto.

Hope this helps

Edit... alsonare you in flower or veg currently?

 

[ExNavyInSTL]

That's probably it. I think the nute issue could also be from the new light I put in there. It's not the best light, but I had to make some switches in my tents.

To get to 30 DLI I had to get it really close to the plant.

The could be making the plant suck up more than normal as it tries to keep up with the light's energy.

 

[TheMadDabber]

That's probably it. I think the nute issue could also be from the new light I put in there. It's not the best light, but I had to make some switches in my tents.

To get to 30 DLI I had to get it really close to the plant.

The could be making the plant suck up more than normal as it tries to keep up with the light's energy.

That explains a lot! Yes. Ideally you start any new light further away and then move it closer. But the extra nutes won't help the plant any... and I don't meant that rude, I know cause I've done it a couple times myself haha! Less is more and give them some time to adjust to that new light and you should be back to square in no time partner!

 

[ExNavyInSTL]

@TheMadDabber

No problem at all. Facts and learned wisdom are never rude.

I have learned a tent-load of facts since opening the thread. Some things are becoming clearer when it comes to these new (to me) nutrients - FloraFlex.

Since my last posting here, I was given grow-changing information. I'm going to copy/paste part of something I wrote in another forum this morning in a thread about nutrients. It's easier to just paste it instead of re-writing it.


Dear Auto Flower Growers Using FloraFlex:

I have a troubled plant that I am not Journaling <here>. I am also not feeding her Jacks.

This time I decided to try FloraFlex, after seeing some YouTubers boasting about it.

They make this easy because they sell you a starter pack of 8 different products (all 1lb bags) for less than $70.


Like most growers, I go to the company's website and print out the Feeding Charts.

When I get there, I see them saying something to the effect of "we have a new and improved" feed chart.

We all want to use the latest and greatest (sometimes), so this is what I downloaded ... brace yourself.

Yup, they have you starting out your baby plant at 2.4 EC, and in three weeks you are feeding that plant 3.0 E.C.

My thinking then was, "Well, if that's what they say, it must be smart."

Otherwise, a bunch of folks would go to the web and sully their name.

I did this all the way to Day 41 and everything was fine, then I woke up on Day 42 and see this:

Now, I am not saying that suddenly overnight my girl got food poisoning from 3.0. By the way, my gut was afraid of 3.0, so I never went above 2.6.

As I said, I am not saying this was a "burn" from nutrients. There were some environmental changes in that I swapped the light for a lesser strength, meaning it was a lot closer than before.

It could have been light burn, or nute burn because of the light making the plant work too hard, which by drinking more it got more nutes than normal.


Having said that, some Nutrient Knight in Shining Armor arrived on the scene and said, "you have the wrong feed chart."

I argued that I had the latest and greatest downloaded straight from the man.

He said, "You are right, you do. However, that is for Photoperiods. Us AutoFlower Growers hassled Flora to create a much more Auto friendly chart."

He then presented me with the following Feed Chart, which I couldn't find on the website. It may be there.

Sure, it still starts out pretty hot at 2.1 EC, but never really gets above 2.2.


The truth is, the damage on the plant I posted above hasn't progressed, so I don't think it was a lockout.

It probably overate and just needed a double glass of Andrews (for the UK readers).

However, if I hadn't started a thread asking "WTF??" It may have been a long time before learned of this Chart.


Back to Now:

As I said earlier, I don't think this plant reaction was from the extra-strength nutes directly. They were fine with NO tip-burn from the beginning of Veg and for 43 days until the day this "burn" made itself visible.

I do think the extra EC did have a part in my plant's proton binge. Maybe (just guessing) when I say, had I been running this plant at a more normal EC, its sudden taking up water may not have overdosed it. Maybe, had I been back at 2.1 when all this happened the result might have been less.

Bottom line, I have been well counseled on this and my new batch of food has been dialed way back. I also raised the light some when I discovered there was a little juice in the dimmer switch.

I can't imagine learning this skill without the help I get from the forums.

Thanks to everyone ... until the next crisis.

That explains a lot! Yes. Ideally you start any new light further away and then move it closer. But the extra nutes won't help the plant any... and I don't meant that rude, I know cause I've done it a couple times myself haha! Less is more and give them some time to adjust to that new light and you should be back to square in no time partner!

 

[Peat Phreak]

Maybe it's time to stop growing Autos. As you can see, they aren't easier to grow. Why did you give up on Jacks and buy Floraflex?

 

[Peat Phreak]

Yup, they have you starting out your baby plant at 2.4 EC, and in three weeks you are feeding that plant 3.0 E.C.

This works if the light is bright enough. Their "full tilt" schedule is geared towards high volume growers that want maximum yield.

Starting seedlings at 500ppm with a dimmer light is what most home growers do. Not sure why we do that. It just takes longer. I tried 1000ppm from the beginning with a brigher light once. It was my fastest grow.

 

[Bill284]

I woke up to the leaves, looking almost golden.

It's only on one side of the plant.

This is Day 43 above the ground.

She is in a SIP Bucket, in 60/40 Coco and Perlite.

She is on FloraFlex. The recipe says it should be an E.C. 3.0. That seems hot to me, so I diluted solution to 2.5.

I've been very careful with pH.

It came on really fast. There was no visible sign of this change last night.

Her DLI is around 30. Temps and humidity are also ideal.

I did give her a mono-silic acid foliar yesterday, but that seems pretty inert.

What say you?

Are you putting calmag in your feed water first?
Coco needs calmag.




#Vivosun #Love What You Grow
Bill284

 

[cbdhemp808]

Wow those are some serious deep green leaves!

 

[ExNavyInSTL]

Wow those are some serious deep green leaves!

In my original post, I think I said some thing about don’t pay attention to the darker leaves.

I purposely put a lot of contrast in the photos to make sure that the golden part was obvious.

 

[ExNavyInSTL]

Yes, the coco was well buffered. I also add a dab of Ca/Mg most fresh batches nutrient.

Are you putting calmag in your feed water first?
Coco needs calmag.




#Vivosun #Love What You Grow
Bill284

 

[ExNavyInSTL]

My next garden is photos.

I have tester seeds from Irie Genetics, Brothers Grim and podcaster JackGreenstalk. They are a mix of regular feminized and just regular. I have farmer freeman, sex test kits at the ready.

Maybe it's time to stop growing Autos. As you can see, they aren't easier to grow. Why did you give up on Jacks and buy Floraflex?

 

[ExNavyInSTL]

By the way, the plant is doing great. The discoloration stopped on the leaves where it started and it’s even starting to show tiny signs up pre-flower.

 

[ExNavyInSTL]

Yes, the coco was well buffered. I also add a dab of Ca/Mg most fresh batches nutrient.

I meant to add that I also keep a Cal/mag foliar at the ready as well. I’ve also been experimenting with making a folliar out of gypsum so that I could minimize extra nitrogen during flour.

 

[TheMadDabber]

By the way, the plant is doing great. The discoloration stopped on the leaves where it started and it’s even starting to show tiny signs up pre-flower.

Glad to hear its going well for you¡ please feel free to tag me if you have questions or concerns. Happy they are doing better! Upward and onward

 

[cbdhemp808]

In my original post, I think I said some thing about don’t pay attention to the darker leaves.

not in this thread.

I purposely put a lot of contrast in the photos to make sure that the golden part was obvious.

OK we typically call it necrosis... dead and dying areas on leaves.

Sound like they are doing better now.

 

[ExNavyInSTL]

Yup, you are right. It was another forum.

After someone worried about the leaves in another forum, I changed the pictures to have a top-banner disclosure.

not in this thread.