White flies & black knats, 7 weeks in flower
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BWC BayArea
Member of the Month: 3rd Place Winner
Not sure if ur indoor or outdoor or what strain, but I think its safe to say that putting water on buds this far into flowering (7 weeks into flower) is too big of a risk for mold and mildew. If the water penetrates the buds, it get trapped and with the fluctuating temperatures make an environment in which fungi thrive. Think about it, Y do u think outdoor growers who don't beat the 1st rain cover their crop. For the aforementioned reason. Many indoor growers aren't still foliar feeding this far into flower. Think about it. Hope this helps.
This is a late response. If you did spray paddy, how'd that work for u?
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I didn't spray, but I got yellow stickeys and put them everywhere. It helped but once the last few are done I am cleaning my whole room. I have some of the flies on the moms that I am trying to get rid of.
BWC BayArea
Member of the Month: 3rd Place Winner
This may be a viable option for an intermediate or advanced grower. For a beginner, 7 weeks into flower I seriously advise against it ESPECIALLY WITH INDICA STRAINS OR INDICA DOMINANT. Wet buds/foliage puts you at risk for powdery mildew and or gray (bud) mold. Now with bud mold it destroys ur crop from the inside out, hard to spot. The advice I'm giving comes from Marijauna Horticulture Medical Growers Guide by Jorge Cervantes and class lecture notes. Bottom line is if you are a beginner, don't have complete environmental control (air, light/heat, water flow, temp, length of either or) ITS NOT WORTH THE RISK spraying water on buds. Ur almost done (w/your cycle), do your best to help ur plants finish. I've never dealt with white flys indoors, but I can say that fungus gnats will likely do minimal damage. As for the fungus gnats, their soil born larva feed on root hairs the adults only live to reproduce. If u have a bad infestation sticky traps and Gnatrol or mosquito discs work for larva, I've used Gnatrol as a soil drench work's good. The only drawback is if Gnatrol is used to close too harvest u will taste it, this I know. Hope this helps. Not to go against what any other members tell you Paddy (most off of have different methods or different variations of similar methods), I can only tell u what's worked for me and what i was taught. Good luck and let us know how u decide to handle it.
BWC BayArea
Member of the Month: 3rd Place Winner
Molasses, indoors? Interesting concept. It doesn't attract ants? which can open the door for a myriad of problems (tunneling through root system and farming aphids). The easiest thing to do that I learned is to leave an open container or water. All living things need it. Its good for trapping flying insects as well as raising ur RH a (the amount depends on size of growspace).
Ants love molasses. They end up doing the same thing. They get stuck in it and die.
BWC BayArea
Member of the Month: 3rd Place Winner
Good point, but remember ants "seeing" other dead ants isn't really a good deterrent. They just keep coming which means the problem would still exist theoretically. U could have a container or molasses overflowing with multitudes of dead ants and they'd just keep coming. I don't agree. Use that outdoors, there are all types of hydro products formulated to have a similar affect for indoors. Can't think of any product names right now.
BWC BayArea
Member of the Month: 3rd Place Winner
Paddy use your better judgment. A little common sense goes a long way. If ur unsure of any of our advice, don't take it. Find out people's source of info. If it can't be validated, discard it. No one's word here is gospel (that I've encountered). Racefan gives pretty good advice from what I've seen. Good luck and keep askin questions.
tintala
Plant of the Month: Third Place Winner
Please don't spray or use h20 that far into flwrng, you are asking for mildew and mold, no you are BEGGING!
I have white flies on my plants. The plants are about ready to harvest. Does anyone know: if I cut down the plants and bring them inside, and some white flies are brought inside with the plants, will the white flies infest my house? Or will the flies die off when the plants die and the food source is gone?
Well, week eight of flowing, & I just saw a white fly. Dug up the grave yard & found this thread. I guess just leave it alone?
you will be fine that far into flower.
Smokemupm8
New Member
I had Fungus gnats all thru my grow, I used perlite, and some DE TOMATO DUST which wiped em out, but there were still a few around at harvest time. I just used the fly strips, they worked better than yellow stiky traps for me, the ones you pull out and hand. But the DE is the way to go imo.. fOOD GRADE IS GOOD, BUT I WAS HAPPY WATCHING THEM DIE
Take it easy and best of luck. Yeah dont soak your buds either.. Smokemup
Take it easy and best of luck. Yeah dont soak your buds either.. SmokemupHi smokemupm8, I already posted this question in pest and diseases forum but then saw this thread and realized i should add tiny nats to my issue. I am not sure what damage they cause and i really have them under control, but here is my problem as i posted previously and any feed back from you would be appreciated. You seem to know your stuff and are welcoming questions so here you go:
I am a somewhat experienced grower. I have gardened for decades and have about six grows (indoor and out) under my belt. Currently, I have three plants in my flowering room; jilly bean- orange velvet x romulan x cindy99 (60sat/40ind) and two casey jones- trainwreck x orient express x ec diesel (80sat/20ind). Sorry no pics. Im growing in 5 gallon containers with foxfarm soils (happyfrog and ocean forest mixed). My water is well water with a ph of 6 - 6.5. They each are under a 600hps and i have three ocilating fans and an outake (which i turn on sometimes) the rest of the time i keep my doors open during lights on to warm up my house and to get fresh air exchange. I feed maxi bloom and occassional cal mag and diamond nectar. I alternate nutes with molasses and plain water. The temp stays between 65 and 80 and the humidity is below 50 at most times and down to 35 occasionaly. I only water when they are dry and only enough to cuz a run off ( i have had bad experiences with over water so now i am cautious).
They have been doing great - robust growth and began flowering immediatly after switch. They all have had one or two yellowing leafs with crispy tips here but in the last day or so, only my jilly bean has displayed weakened stems to the point where they may not be able to support colas and wilting, soft leaves (mainly at bottom and middle of plant. The buds and top of the plant look great as do the other two plants in the room. According to the books it seems it might be calcium, or potassium def, but they are well but not over fed plants. Just cant figure this one out on my own, so any help would be appreciated - asap thanks a lot 420 pals!
I am a somewhat experienced grower. I have gardened for decades and have about six grows (indoor and out) under my belt. Currently, I have three plants in my flowering room; jilly bean- orange velvet x romulan x cindy99 (60sat/40ind) and two casey jones- trainwreck x orient express x ec diesel (80sat/20ind). Sorry no pics. Im growing in 5 gallon containers with foxfarm soils (happyfrog and ocean forest mixed). My water is well water with a ph of 6 - 6.5. They each are under a 600hps and i have three ocilating fans and an outake (which i turn on sometimes) the rest of the time i keep my doors open during lights on to warm up my house and to get fresh air exchange. I feed maxi bloom and occassional cal mag and diamond nectar. I alternate nutes with molasses and plain water. The temp stays between 65 and 80 and the humidity is below 50 at most times and down to 35 occasionaly. I only water when they are dry and only enough to cuz a run off ( i have had bad experiences with over water so now i am cautious).
They have been doing great - robust growth and began flowering immediatly after switch. They all have had one or two yellowing leafs with crispy tips here but in the last day or so, only my jilly bean has displayed weakened stems to the point where they may not be able to support colas and wilting, soft leaves (mainly at bottom and middle of plant. The buds and top of the plant look great as do the other two plants in the room. According to the books it seems it might be calcium, or potassium def, but they are well but not over fed plants. Just cant figure this one out on my own, so any help would be appreciated - asap thanks a lot 420 pals!
Smokemupm8
New Member
Well mate, with my last grow she got big buds like 2ft each hanging around on her stems and I used some adhesive huphooks,like $2 a pack! and stuck em to the wall with some extra tape over top, and then attached rubber coated gardening wire to a branch and then to the cup hooks! Simple
It may help, dont worry if you have to support your buds - thats good! I dont know what you mean about being Cal, or potass defic. And if you can always add some cal/mag to top soil and water in, and then feed her later with a little potassium, wait a few days and see if theres any change? Sorry I cant be more direct... Smokem
It may help, dont worry if you have to support your buds - thats good! I dont know what you mean about being Cal, or potass defic. And if you can always add some cal/mag to top soil and water in, and then feed her later with a little potassium, wait a few days and see if theres any change? Sorry I cant be more direct... Smokem
Thanks for th reply, the colas are supported, that is not the problem, the lower part of plant is wilting and the leaves are soft and limp, however, the tops and buds are all fine. the other two plants with same light etc. are fine. Im wondering if it is strain related. jilly bean overly sensitive to heat? Nutes? Tgas are sometimes tricky to grow, i have found.
