Why are lower leaves yellowing and falling off? please help!

my plant stayed a bit under some rain now, and the mold seems to be gone, i'll check again in like 1-2 hours.
and will i be able to find that product in italy?
 
Update (after rain)

my plants took some rain and most of the mold seems to be gone, maybe it wasnt mold?
P150913_16_02_01_.jpg

only little residue as you can see, (i dont know if its supposed to be washed away with the rain or not)
 
secondo me non e muffa e troppo presto e se lo fosse sarebbe conseguenza di altro problema la pioggia e ottima ma con moderazione se la terra del vaso e gia satura d acqua meglio sarebbe non bagnare le foglie
 
non lo so cosa sia dalle foto non capisco se e solo 1 pianta col problema separala dalle altre ma se e muffa fai subito come ha detto gigabane
 
GiGaBaNE said:
nice. you got a magic plant, can take extreme nutrient abuse and sheds its own powder mold. ill leave you to it I think, good luck with the grow, I think you should be fine from here.
Click to expand...
lol, nutrient abuse? she likes getting lots of nutes, with normal dosage she becomes yellow...
and the powder mold is not gone yet, i'll check tomorrow morning if it spreads..if its still there i'd apreciate if you continued to help me! thanks for everything so far..
 
Re: Update (after rain)

That is powdery mildew. The rain probably did wash it off and water inhibits its growth, strangely enough. This is copied from my book:

I’d like to say that powdery mildew isn’t the spider mite of fungi, but once you have it, it really is. Avoiding it is not hard, though. Keep the air moving and keep your humidity low (below 40%). PM thrives in humid environments, as you might expect. Low humidity favors spore dispersal, high humidity favors growth. This complements typical day/night conditions. The fungus is apparent on the surface of the leaves, but sends hyphal taps (haustoria) into the plant cell to obtain nutrient. It is hard to eradicate. Cloning an apparently clean part of an infected plant then discarding the plant is not a guaranteed way to eliminate it from your room. Temperature is also important when dealing with powdery mildew. PM is most active between 60º and 80ºF (16º–27º C. It is inactive over 90º F (32º C). So how do you deal with it? You can manage it by keeping your rH low and your temperature up, but the plants tend to slow down around 90º (32º C), so this is a balancing act. Doing this in combination with the use of an oil, such as Stylet-Oil® is a fairly effective way to control PM. Water, believe it or not, inhibits spore germination, so spraying leaves with water can help, but it is also a way to germinate other fungi and it raises rH, so it’s not my recommendation that you do this. Sulfur burners are probably the best bet. Sulfur kills the fungus and is easily washed off the plant. I would not recommend using sulfur in the flowering stage. If you find you have a PM infection during flowering, drop rH by running a dehumidifier, raise temperature and manage the infestation until harvest. Then you can remove your plants, treat with sulfur, rinse and clean everything again with 10% bleach. It’s a lot of work, so try to stay ahead of the infection by watching air conditions from the outset.

Since writing this I have found another product that works well on PM. It is called propiconozole, although I would be careful to only use it in pre-flowering stages.
 
ok, i think i know where the mold came from. my plants are near a wall with lots of moss and humidity so thats probably where it came from.
i have a product that i can spray on walls and kills mold, (its chemical and very toxic) obviously i wont spray it on the plant but do you think its okay to spray it on the wall and have plants nearby or they have to be at a big distance?

water slowed it down but im sure its gonna come back, and you know me, i like to take fast and effective approaches.
i'd buy gigabanes product but i doubt its available in italy, what do you think is the best way to get rid of it quickly? (and a way that doesnt harm my buds if possible)
 
propiconozole is not pleasant. it is suspected to cause cancers, can form birth defects in lower animals, is extremely toxic to aquatics and is unfortunately mobile in the soil meaning a relatively high opportunity to cause pollution, even the compounds propiconozole breaks down into are suspect for toxicity.

I stand by my original suggestion of SNS 244. its organic, well used and recommended by this community, fantastic at the job intended and not only is the provider of the product scrutinised through our sponsor system but likely provides an exclusive 420 magazine discount like so many of our other sponsors. =)

Edit: I see SNS products available to purchase on the .it versions of some global sellers. not gonna take you much google.it work to get some ;)
 
ok gigabane thanks a lot, working on that right now (if it takes a lot to ship, i can just cut off infected leaves right?)
and ill spray my toxic product on the wall, so it kills all the moss and mold and whatever is in there
 
after a search on google its impossible to have this product, only ebay.it sells it and its from us anyway (30 euros shipping and its gonna take ages to arrive, just no).

theres gotta be some other remedies.. i read that sunlight kills mold, i'll try to get it to go on it next time theres a hot day. do u guys know anything else?
 
Scientific Soils said:
I would not bother with that wall. When you grow outside you just have to tolerate some of this stuff happening.
Click to expand...
yea but right now im also reading that when you see powdery mildew its already well established, god im getting scared lol. i'd prefer 100 thrips to this...
i'd hate so much to lose all my harvest to the mold, in outdoors humidity cant be controlled in a few days my plants will be completely infestated, what should i do?

i guess i can try to spray it with neem but thats probably not gonna work is it ..
 
It is very difficult to eradicate PM without systemic chemicals. These are generally not a good idea to use on a plant you intend to consume. You can control it with some of the horticultural oils available. Another thing that works is changing the pH of the leaf with potassium bicarbonate (Green Cure, etc). Above all, don't panic. You'll make it through this.
 
ce ne sono a centinaia di prodotti fungicidi nei negozi on line li trovi di sicuro io personalmente sono contrario al loro uso ma come hai fatto a prendere la muffa in questo periodo non ci sono le condizioni a meno che non le hai create tu e una pianta molto forte sai? ho coltivato molte piante erbacee in vaso e questa e la piu facile in assoluto da coltivare e stai attento ai fertilizzanti se usati in maniera non appropriata possono anche causare la muffa per esempio aumentare improvvisamente la dose causa stress alla pianta
 
im not panicing but please give me a schedule on what to do before things turn bad, tomorrow ill spray with a strong dose of neem, then what oils should i use? will milk or any of that stuff work? should i get green cure asap? just tell me what to do and i'll do it :) (i always like the strong approach you know)
 
Using Milk for Plant Mildews

More than 50 years ago, researchers in Canada discovered that milk sprays could help prevent powdery mildew on tomato and barley. Then the age of fungicides began, with no further published research on the milk cure until 1999. Since then, numerous small studies from around the world have validated the use of milk sprays on powdery mildew on a wide range of plants. Most recently, a spray made of 40% milk and 60% water was as effective as chemical fungicides in managing powdery mildew of pumpkins and cucumbers grown in mildew-prone Connecticut. In Australia, milk sprays have proven to be as effective as sulfur and synthetic chemicals in preventing powdery mildew on grapes. In New Zealand, milk did a top-rate job of suppressing powdery mildew in apples.
Scientists are not exactly sure how milk sprays work, but most think proteins in the milk interact with sun to create a brief antiseptic effect. Any fungi present are "burned" into oblivion, but there is no residual effect after that. In order to be effective, milk sprays must be used preventively, must be applied in bright light, and should be repeated every 10 days or so.
On the downside, some writers have suggested that milk sprays give off a bad odor after they have been applied, but this has not been my experience. I use a hand-held pump-spray bottle to wet both sides of the leaf until it's dripping, and usually spray in mid to late afternoon on a sunny day. In the days that follow, I never smell a thing.
There is no consensus on which dilution of milk to water is best, with the most concentrated recommended mixture 40% milk and 60% water, and the most dilute 10% milk and 90% water. I fall in between using 30% milk to70% water, with good results. It does not matter if the milk you use is skim or whole because it is the protein rather than the milkfat that is working on your behalf.
With experience, you will learn which types of powdery mildew are likely to develop in your garden, and this knowledge will take you far in managing this disease. Like other fungicides, milk sprays work best when used preventatively, before the disease can gain a foothold. If you often see powdery mildew on your squash, grapes or zinnias, start milk sprays before the plants show signs of infection. You have nothing to lose beyond a cup of milk.
 

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