dragontoker
New Member
Whats the res temp? Should get no higher then 68f. No lower then 65f.
1st Time Attempt at Aerotubes: Indoor SOG Kandy Kush 400W HPS
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- aero android first time kandy kush sog
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- #22
Android
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The res has been definitely under 64F at all times (probably ~55 on average). Don't contaminants and temperature always go hand-in-hand? I was assuming there is no such thing as temperature too low (unless it's frozen). Was this assumption wrong?
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- #23
Android
New Member
Update coming. Problems piling up
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- #24
Android
New Member
Update: installed 1/4 hp sump pump - got Bellagio fountains in my garage now - things started working fine.
I also jumped on the BPN bandwagon with the nutes
Also plan on installing UV-sterilizer in the res and inline filter in the manifold.
Pics are coming
I also jumped on the BPN bandwagon with the nutes
Also plan on installing UV-sterilizer in the res and inline filter in the manifold.
Pics are coming
Mr Mud-Pie
New Member
dam man liking the amount of detail your putting into it 
stedfast82
New Member
looking good
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- #27
Android
New Member
Okay, the pics.
These are the tools of the trade for true aero mofos like me. Using the one on the right too often leads to more trips to the plumbing section - use it only when the system is done, seriously
Pour out some liquor for the dead homies:
This is the test setup- you can see how both reses connect:
This is the manifold and the returning pump with the level switch bolted to it:
The murky waters of the reservoir. The giant pump is hidden somewhere in there:
This is what I need to get to stop the siphoning and clogging:
This is how the pump timer is set: 30 sec every 12 or so minutes. That's because the plugs hold the water anyways, so I figured they need the plants to grow some hair down there before I make it spray more frequently.
The baby flowers:
The ph doesn't change much in this condition, lazily fluctuating around the sweet spot:
Camouflage:
I need to use a smaller size catch pan, so I am using these discharge hoses to route the drained water to a smaller tub, when it's all said and done:
That's all, folks, I will try to get the Belaggio fountains on camera some time - it is some intense spraying letmetellya
P.S.: I also forgot, I am buying this to make my pet fishes jealous. And to keep the system sterile HEHEHE:
These are the tools of the trade for true aero mofos like me. Using the one on the right too often leads to more trips to the plumbing section - use it only when the system is done, seriously
Pour out some liquor for the dead homies:
This is the test setup- you can see how both reses connect:
This is the manifold and the returning pump with the level switch bolted to it:
The murky waters of the reservoir. The giant pump is hidden somewhere in there:
This is what I need to get to stop the siphoning and clogging:
This is how the pump timer is set: 30 sec every 12 or so minutes. That's because the plugs hold the water anyways, so I figured they need the plants to grow some hair down there before I make it spray more frequently.
The baby flowers:
The ph doesn't change much in this condition, lazily fluctuating around the sweet spot:
Camouflage:
I need to use a smaller size catch pan, so I am using these discharge hoses to route the drained water to a smaller tub, when it's all said and done:
That's all, folks, I will try to get the Belaggio fountains on camera some time - it is some intense spraying letmetellya
P.S.: I also forgot, I am buying this to make my pet fishes jealous. And to keep the system sterile HEHEHE:
- Thread starter
- #28
Android
New Member
On a sidenote: I wish I knew ahead of time how easy it would be just to buy a sprinkler system and fricking install damn sprinklers right in the posts. With valves and controllers - all sitting on the same isle in the store. If I had to start from scratch, I would definitely do so.
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- #29
Android
New Member
This is the picture of my new pump from a box (got it for $50 at Menards)
This will be in the mail soon:
This will be in the mail soon:
great thread so far, definitely fun to follow. cant wait to see the turn out.
- Thread starter
- #31
Android
New Member
Sterilizer will only get here on Tuesday, until then I have to deal with the slime. Appears like a lot of root rot.
I finally finished all the plumbing issues I had - solved filtration/clogging, siphoning/backflow and leaking
This is what it took:
you can see two separate loops here - the return loop fitted with the y-filter and the check valve, and the pump loop, which is better seen on the second pic:
Here Is the closed res - I replaced the straight connections with unions - to prevent leaking and allow gluing of pipes coming out of the res.
This is the water temperature:
This here shows the biggest plant and its roots:
Tall clones are so strong - they are lifting up the dome:
Group picture:
I am using ph down mixed with nutes and the res water for ph control. The second pic shows how the dosing pump line tied to the sensor to make sure it stops pumping quick enough:
What kind of deficiency is this?:
Thank you in advance
I finally finished all the plumbing issues I had - solved filtration/clogging, siphoning/backflow and leaking
This is what it took:
you can see two separate loops here - the return loop fitted with the y-filter and the check valve, and the pump loop, which is better seen on the second pic:
Here Is the closed res - I replaced the straight connections with unions - to prevent leaking and allow gluing of pipes coming out of the res.
This is the water temperature:
This here shows the biggest plant and its roots:
Tall clones are so strong - they are lifting up the dome:
Group picture:
I am using ph down mixed with nutes and the res water for ph control. The second pic shows how the dosing pump line tied to the sensor to make sure it stops pumping quick enough:
What kind of deficiency is this?:
Thank you in advance
Subd, Head on over to the link how to grow marijuana in my sig, you will find the information there. Also welcome to the BPN Army!!!
From the plant abuse section in how to grow.
If you are using an ozone generator
Ozone Damage:
Ozone damage typically found near the generator. Although a rare problem, symptoms generally appear as a Mg deficiency, but the symptoms are localized to immediately around the generator.
If not then Mg deficiency , Magnesium - Mg-deficiency is pretty common since marijuana uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have enough of it. Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water) or foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.
From the nutrient disorder section in how to grow.
To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before making major changes.
1) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2. b) If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.
2) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen(N) deficiency. b) If not, go to #3.
3) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency. b) If not, go to #4.
4) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency. b) If not, keep reading.
5) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and leaves may be small. >> Phosphorus(P) deficiency. b) If not, go to #6.
6) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K. b) If not, go to #7.
7) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray, brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N). b) If not, go to #8...
8) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >> Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely). b) If not, go to #9.
9) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning. b) If not, go to #10...
10) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency. b) If not, go to #11.
11) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency. b) If not, #12.
12) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn) deficiency. b) If not, #13.
13) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency. b) If not... You may just have a weak plant.
The Nutrients:
Nitrogen - Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.
Magnesium - Mg-deficiency is pretty common since marijuana uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have enough of it. Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water) or foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.
Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.
Phosphorous - Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.
Iron - Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency.
Manganese - Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use chelated Mn.
Zinc - Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients-lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc.
Check Your Water - Crusty faucets and shower heads mean your water is "hard," usually due to too many minerals. Tap water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) level of more than around 200ppm (parts per million) is "hard" and should be looked into, especially if your plants have a chronic problem. Ask your water company for an analysis listing, which will usually list the pH, TDS, and mineral levels (as well as the pollutants, carcinogens, etc) for the tap water in your area. This is a common request, especially in this day and age, so it shouldn't raise an eyebrow. Regular water filters will not reduce a high TDS level, but the costlier reverse-osmosis units, distillers, and de-ionizers will. A digital TDS meter (or EC = electrical conductivity meter) is an incredibly useful tool for monitoring the nutrient levels of nutrient solution, and will pay for itself before you know it. They run about $40 and up.
General Feeding Tips - Pot plants are very adaptable, but a general rule of thumb is to use more nitrogen & less phosphorous during the vegetative period, and the exact opposite during the flowering period. For the veg. period try a N
:K ratio of about 10:7 :8 (which of course is the same ratio as 20:14 :16), and for flowering plants, 4:8 :8. Check the pH after adding nutrients. If you use a reservoir, keep it circulating and change it every 2 weeks.
A General Guideline for TDS Levels is as Follows:
seedlings = 50-150 ppm; unrooted clones = 100-350 ppm; small plants = 400-800 ppm; large plants = 900-1800 ppm; last week of flowering = taper off to plain water. These numbers are just a guideline, and many factors can change the actual level the plants will need. Certain nutrients are "invisible" to TDS meters, especially organics, so use TDS level only as an estimate of actual nutrient levels. When in doubt about a new fertilizer, follow the fertilizer's directions for feeding tomatoes. Grow a few tomato or radish plants nearby for comparison.
PH - The pH of water after adding any nutrients should be around 5.9-6.5 (in rockwool, 5.5-6.1). Generally speaking, the micro-nutrients (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu) get locked out at a high pH (alkaline) above 7.0, while the major nutrients (N, P, K, Mg) can be less available in acidic soil or water (below 5.0). Tap water is often too alkaline. Soils with lots of peat or other organic matter in them tend to get too acidic, which some dolomite lime will help fix. Soil test kits vary in accuracy, and generally the more you pay the better the accuracy. For the water, color-based pH test kits from aquarium stores are inexpensive, but inaccurate. Invest in a digital pH meter ($40-80), preferably a waterproof one. You won't regret it.
Cold - Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can lock up phosphorous. Some
varieties, like equatorial sativas, don't take well to cold weather. If you can keep the roots warmer, the plant will be able to take cooler temps than it otherwise could.
Heat - If the lights are too close to the plant, the tops may be curled, dry, and look burnt, mimicking a nutrient problem. Your hand should not feel hot after a minute when you hold it at the top of the plants. Raise the lights and/or aim a fan at the hot zone. Room temps should be kept under 85F (29C) -- or 90F (33) if you add additional CO2.
Humidity - Thin, shriveled leaves can be from low humidity. 40-80 % is usually fine.
Mold and Fungus - Dark patchy areas on leaves and buds can be mold. Lower the humidity and increase the ventilation if mold is a problem. Remove any dead leaves, wherever they are. Keep your garden clean.
Insects - White spots on the tops of leaves can mean spider mites
underneath.
Sprays - Foliar sprays can have a "magnifying glass" effect under bright lights, causing small white, yellow or burnt spots which can be confused with a nutrient problem. Some sprays can also cause chemical reactions.
Insufficient light - tall, stretching plants are usually from using the wrong kind of light.. Don't use regular incandescent bulbs ("grow bulbs") or halogens to grow cannabis. Invest in fluorescent lighting (good) or HID lighting (much better) which supply the high-intensity light that cannabis needs for good growth and tight buds. Even better, grow in sunlight.
Clones - yellowing leaves on unrooted clones can be from too much light, or the stem may not be firmly touching the rooting medium. Turn off any CO2 until they root. Too much fertilizer can shrivel or wilt clones - plain tap water is fine.
If this helped, send a few dollars to NORML.
From the plant abuse section in how to grow.
If you are using an ozone generator
Ozone Damage:
Ozone damage typically found near the generator. Although a rare problem, symptoms generally appear as a Mg deficiency, but the symptoms are localized to immediately around the generator.
If not then Mg deficiency , Magnesium - Mg-deficiency is pretty common since marijuana uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have enough of it. Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water) or foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.
From the nutrient disorder section in how to grow.
To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before making major changes.
1) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2. b) If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.
2) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen(N) deficiency. b) If not, go to #3.
3) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency. b) If not, go to #4.
4) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency. b) If not, keep reading.
5) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and leaves may be small. >> Phosphorus(P) deficiency. b) If not, go to #6.
6) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K. b) If not, go to #7.
7) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray, brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N). b) If not, go to #8...
8) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >> Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely). b) If not, go to #9.
9) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning. b) If not, go to #10...
10) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency. b) If not, go to #11.
11) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency. b) If not, #12.
12) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn) deficiency. b) If not, #13.
13) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency. b) If not... You may just have a weak plant.
The Nutrients:
Nitrogen - Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.
Magnesium - Mg-deficiency is pretty common since marijuana uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have enough of it. Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water) or foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.
Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.
Phosphorous - Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.
Iron - Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency.
Manganese - Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use chelated Mn.
Zinc - Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients-lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc.
Check Your Water - Crusty faucets and shower heads mean your water is "hard," usually due to too many minerals. Tap water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) level of more than around 200ppm (parts per million) is "hard" and should be looked into, especially if your plants have a chronic problem. Ask your water company for an analysis listing, which will usually list the pH, TDS, and mineral levels (as well as the pollutants, carcinogens, etc) for the tap water in your area. This is a common request, especially in this day and age, so it shouldn't raise an eyebrow. Regular water filters will not reduce a high TDS level, but the costlier reverse-osmosis units, distillers, and de-ionizers will. A digital TDS meter (or EC = electrical conductivity meter) is an incredibly useful tool for monitoring the nutrient levels of nutrient solution, and will pay for itself before you know it. They run about $40 and up.
General Feeding Tips - Pot plants are very adaptable, but a general rule of thumb is to use more nitrogen & less phosphorous during the vegetative period, and the exact opposite during the flowering period. For the veg. period try a N
:K ratio of about 10:7 :8 (which of course is the same ratio as 20:14 :16), and for flowering plants, 4:8 :8. Check the pH after adding nutrients. If you use a reservoir, keep it circulating and change it every 2 weeks.A General Guideline for TDS Levels is as Follows:
seedlings = 50-150 ppm; unrooted clones = 100-350 ppm; small plants = 400-800 ppm; large plants = 900-1800 ppm; last week of flowering = taper off to plain water. These numbers are just a guideline, and many factors can change the actual level the plants will need. Certain nutrients are "invisible" to TDS meters, especially organics, so use TDS level only as an estimate of actual nutrient levels. When in doubt about a new fertilizer, follow the fertilizer's directions for feeding tomatoes. Grow a few tomato or radish plants nearby for comparison.
PH - The pH of water after adding any nutrients should be around 5.9-6.5 (in rockwool, 5.5-6.1). Generally speaking, the micro-nutrients (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu) get locked out at a high pH (alkaline) above 7.0, while the major nutrients (N, P, K, Mg) can be less available in acidic soil or water (below 5.0). Tap water is often too alkaline. Soils with lots of peat or other organic matter in them tend to get too acidic, which some dolomite lime will help fix. Soil test kits vary in accuracy, and generally the more you pay the better the accuracy. For the water, color-based pH test kits from aquarium stores are inexpensive, but inaccurate. Invest in a digital pH meter ($40-80), preferably a waterproof one. You won't regret it.
Cold - Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can lock up phosphorous. Some
varieties, like equatorial sativas, don't take well to cold weather. If you can keep the roots warmer, the plant will be able to take cooler temps than it otherwise could.
Heat - If the lights are too close to the plant, the tops may be curled, dry, and look burnt, mimicking a nutrient problem. Your hand should not feel hot after a minute when you hold it at the top of the plants. Raise the lights and/or aim a fan at the hot zone. Room temps should be kept under 85F (29C) -- or 90F (33) if you add additional CO2.
Humidity - Thin, shriveled leaves can be from low humidity. 40-80 % is usually fine.
Mold and Fungus - Dark patchy areas on leaves and buds can be mold. Lower the humidity and increase the ventilation if mold is a problem. Remove any dead leaves, wherever they are. Keep your garden clean.
Insects - White spots on the tops of leaves can mean spider mites
underneath.
Sprays - Foliar sprays can have a "magnifying glass" effect under bright lights, causing small white, yellow or burnt spots which can be confused with a nutrient problem. Some sprays can also cause chemical reactions.
Insufficient light - tall, stretching plants are usually from using the wrong kind of light.. Don't use regular incandescent bulbs ("grow bulbs") or halogens to grow cannabis. Invest in fluorescent lighting (good) or HID lighting (much better) which supply the high-intensity light that cannabis needs for good growth and tight buds. Even better, grow in sunlight.
Clones - yellowing leaves on unrooted clones can be from too much light, or the stem may not be firmly touching the rooting medium. Turn off any CO2 until they root. Too much fertilizer can shrivel or wilt clones - plain tap water is fine.
If this helped, send a few dollars to NORML.
- Thread starter
- #33
Android
New Member
Goddamn UV sterilizer is weak-sauce. 9W is definitely not enough. Algae blooms root rot everywhere. Buying a 32W model now.
- Thread starter
- #34
Android
New Member
I switched from Humboldts to Blue Planet 2 part - and the stuff is amazing - no overwhelming slime, no wild ph changes. ph fluctuated from 5.6 to 5.9 for 3 first days after change - a dream came true compared to Humboldts. Thanks to Corey and BPN.
I spent a couple hours taking each plant out and rinsing the slime off the net cups, plugs and roots - I think this contributed to repeating infestation. Now the water is clear - dead slime here and there, but no new foaming or slime or algae of any kind, which is promising.
I am also using much smaller catch can, which I think helps a sterilizer to do a better job.
Everything is finally functioning as it was intended. Can't wait for the move from the garage to the grow room. My soil grow will be done 100% in a week or two. Who-hoo!
My ballast crapped on me, so I had to use the majic powers of craigslist and get me a digital 600-watter with bulbs included for $75.
I hope a 600 won't be too hot for 80 cubic feet space.
This makes me wonder how the water cooling is accomplished, or reassess the validity of claims that 90F is bad for pot. Pot grows in hot places in the wild, and I don't see much reason behind why the temps have to be lower for a good harvest...
Pics will follow
I spent a couple hours taking each plant out and rinsing the slime off the net cups, plugs and roots - I think this contributed to repeating infestation. Now the water is clear - dead slime here and there, but no new foaming or slime or algae of any kind, which is promising.
I am also using much smaller catch can, which I think helps a sterilizer to do a better job.
Everything is finally functioning as it was intended. Can't wait for the move from the garage to the grow room. My soil grow will be done 100% in a week or two. Who-hoo!
My ballast crapped on me, so I had to use the majic powers of craigslist and get me a digital 600-watter with bulbs included for $75.
I hope a 600 won't be too hot for 80 cubic feet space.
This makes me wonder how the water cooling is accomplished, or reassess the validity of claims that 90F is bad for pot. Pot grows in hot places in the wild, and I don't see much reason behind why the temps have to be lower for a good harvest...
Pics will follow
nice job you are doing there man!
90F for the roots is definitely bad! you might need a water chiller to keep rez temp around 66F later when the plants are getting older.. or else, if you have complete control of the room temp, using an air conditioner to keep it low, then you might not need the chiller for your rez..
good luck!
90F for the roots is definitely bad! you might need a water chiller to keep rez temp around 66F later when the plants are getting older.. or else, if you have complete control of the room temp, using an air conditioner to keep it low, then you might not need the chiller for your rez..
good luck!
- Thread starter
- #36
Android
New Member
I am not expecting temp problems with the water, since there is only 2-3 gal in the catch-tank vs 23 gal in the res outside the flowering room sitting on a concrete basement floor. The catch can will not get much heat either, completely obscured by the pipes, the lid and also sitting on a basement concrete.
It tooks promising as where I am right now, can't wait one more week for the big move from garage to the bloom room
It tooks promising as where I am right now, can't wait one more week for the big move from garage to the bloom room
Sky Rocket
New Member
1. How did you do on your last harvest? Was it sog in soil?
2. Do you have just one 400 watt light to flower all 64 plants?
3. Is the kandy kush strain by DNA?
2. Do you have just one 400 watt light to flower all 64 plants?
3. Is the kandy kush strain by DNA?
- Thread starter
- #38
Android
New Member
1) I did pretty well, on average about 5 plants for an oz of tall phenotype. that would make it a 13oz, but I had one too many of a shorter phenotype, which skrewed the harvest stats downwards to maybe 10 oz total.
To get on top of this problem, here is the plan I came up with: right now I have 6 mothers and I started marking clones with mom number, so I could later determine which one makes the tall pheno and stick with it.
2) My 400W ballast is RIP, so I replaced it last week with a 600W, thanks to the craigslist - for merely $75 (with free bulbs)
Now keep in mind, my well room is only 70 cu ft of space. If I am not opening the door every night while the lamp is on - things can get pretty heated up there -up to 105F
How do peeps run liquid cooled laps in horticulture?
3) Kandy Kush was from Reserva Privada ( I believe... it was a freebie)
To get on top of this problem, here is the plan I came up with: right now I have 6 mothers and I started marking clones with mom number, so I could later determine which one makes the tall pheno and stick with it.
2) My 400W ballast is RIP, so I replaced it last week with a 600W, thanks to the craigslist - for merely $75 (with free bulbs)
Now keep in mind, my well room is only 70 cu ft of space. If I am not opening the door every night while the lamp is on - things can get pretty heated up there -up to 105F
How do peeps run liquid cooled laps in horticulture?
3) Kandy Kush was from Reserva Privada ( I believe... it was a freebie)
Sky Rocket
New Member
Oh okay. That's what I'm going to do is grow out 6 moms and take cuttings from each to and flower them out to determine wich mom is a keeper.
- Thread starter
- #40
Android
New Member
OK
Here's an update with pics.
The rig has finally made it to its place, where I ripped off all the reflective bubble wrap and simply painted the walls with waterproof bright white paint.
It is right now inhabited with poor victims of violent experiments of testing the rig in the garage with root rot, frosty temps, equipment malfunctions and inadequate lighting (ten 23W CFLs LOL). There are also 12 clones there from 6 moms - two from each - I am trying to establish who are the stretchy pheno clone producing moms and pull the Darwin on the rest. Tall pheno plants give much more bud in straight to 12/12 SOG setting. I really hope I solve this riddle.
here is the general view. you can see 12 clones on the very left:
I bolted the light to the ceiling this time around (otherwise 600W makes it too hot on the level where the plants are) and made air routing much simpler.
Because ceiling is very low, this is no problem - it still produces a shitload of light)
IMO this is pretty damn good surface temperature considering that it's the summertime now, and there is no AC in the grow room. I wanted to reiterate, that water in the main res is nowhere near the temp shown here :
This is my solution (unfinished) for water changes - I routed the smaller res return pipe right in the sump basin, and will let the sump pump do its job to get rid of the water:
The better look at the clone competition happening to the left:
Poor babies with spray damage on leaves. This is because it turns out I needed 3" covers for 2" net pots, and not 2" covers - you can see gaps in the pic:
This is the main res (not the bucket, stupid, it's behind the washer!):
If you asked "where?" here's the close-up. :
Can you see it now?
This is the manifold shot. You can see the catch-can now sports a lid!:
Here is the close-up manifold shot, note the 4" draining hoses:
Small cover problem and its examples:
The catch-can without the lid. You can see the clear water, returning pump, but not the UV sterilizer, which is hidden under hoses to the right:
Here's an update with pics.
The rig has finally made it to its place, where I ripped off all the reflective bubble wrap and simply painted the walls with waterproof bright white paint.
It is right now inhabited with poor victims of violent experiments of testing the rig in the garage with root rot, frosty temps, equipment malfunctions and inadequate lighting (ten 23W CFLs LOL). There are also 12 clones there from 6 moms - two from each - I am trying to establish who are the stretchy pheno clone producing moms and pull the Darwin on the rest. Tall pheno plants give much more bud in straight to 12/12 SOG setting. I really hope I solve this riddle.
here is the general view. you can see 12 clones on the very left:
I bolted the light to the ceiling this time around (otherwise 600W makes it too hot on the level where the plants are) and made air routing much simpler.
Because ceiling is very low, this is no problem - it still produces a shitload of light)
IMO this is pretty damn good surface temperature considering that it's the summertime now, and there is no AC in the grow room. I wanted to reiterate, that water in the main res is nowhere near the temp shown here :
This is my solution (unfinished) for water changes - I routed the smaller res return pipe right in the sump basin, and will let the sump pump do its job to get rid of the water:
The better look at the clone competition happening to the left:
Poor babies with spray damage on leaves. This is because it turns out I needed 3" covers for 2" net pots, and not 2" covers - you can see gaps in the pic:
This is the main res (not the bucket, stupid, it's behind the washer!):
If you asked "where?" here's the close-up. :
Can you see it now?
This is the manifold shot. You can see the catch-can now sports a lid!:
Here is the close-up manifold shot, note the 4" draining hoses:
Small cover problem and its examples:
The catch-can without the lid. You can see the clear water, returning pump, but not the UV sterilizer, which is hidden under hoses to the right:
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