Die in final phase - My OG Kush

solareclipse

Well-Known Member
hey guys...i got an og kush photoperiod..i raise it up for 2 months in veg with lst-ing and now it is in week 6..to 7...a few days ago i found spidermits and today i saw the plant to dry...i found a tottal dry small bud on a bud...i will upload some fotos how it was and how it is now also i will show u the leaves and the dry small piece from bud.any suggestons?
IMG_20160726_183747.jpg
IMG_20160726_183801.jpg
IMG_20160726_172438.jpg
IMG_20160726_172452.jpg
IMG_20160726_172420.jpg
IMG_20160726_172246.jpg
IMG_20160726_172137.jpg
IMG_20160726_172328.jpg
IMG_20160720_155122.jpg
IMG_20160720_155233.jpg
IMG_20160720_155150.jpg
IMG_20160720_154945.jpg
IMG_20160720_155021.jpg
IMG_20160720_153523.jpg
IMG_20160715_165534.jpg
IMG_20160715_165527.jpg
IMG_20160715_094118-320x240.jpg
IMG_20160706_172942.jpg
IMG_20160706_173027.jpg
IMG_20160706_173013.jpg
IMG_20160703_174947.jpg
 
thjis problem is very serious...also is an emergency..if someone can help me quick it would be nice..or lse if i leave it lik this it gonna die less than than a week.thank u
 
You are pretty far into flower. My suggestion Would be to mix neem oil with a little dawn dish soap and lots of water in a sprayer. The soap will give the bugs diarrhea till they die, and the oil will prevent them from coming back. You will need to do this weekly to ensure the hatched eggs die also. Make sure after you spray it, it's got a fan on it. I'd hate for you to get bud rot since you are so far in flower. I seriously hope this helps.
Then at harvest time you will need to do bud washings to get the oil and soap off of them.
 
You are pretty far into flower. My suggestion Would be to mix neem oil with a little dawn dish soap and lots of water in a sprayer. The soap will give the bugs diarrhea till they die, and the oil will prevent them from coming back. You will need to do this weekly to ensure the hatched eggs die also. Make sure after you spray it, it's got a fan on it. I'd hate for you to get bud rot since you are so far in flower. I seriously hope this helps.
Then at harvest time you will need to do bud washings to get the oil and soap off of them.
Does this help with grasshoppers? I'm outdoors and I've got 1 or 2 now each morning, but I'm about to flower and I'm a lil bit worried they'll increase as they bloom.
 
To me, it looks like two problems. You have mites, but it appears you may also have bud rot. I can't be sure from the photos.
Bummer to be this late in the grow and need to spray. I agree with Canna although I wouldn't bother with the soap in this case. A neem product should control mites but it takes multiple sprays - minimum of two about 4-5 days apart. Better would be three sprays. I've read mixed reviews of neem oil for rot (botrytis). My understanding is it does work. Try to keep RH lower and have plenty of air movement.
 
Spider mites are the bane of marijuana growers. Mites are not insects, but arachnids, the same family as spiders. They have eight legs. Your garden is probably infested with two spotted mites. When looking through a loop or magnifying glass, two black spots are visible on the pest's back. Gardens are also infrequently infested with the red spider mite.

Spider mites are about the size of a poppy seed. They insert a tube into the plant and suck out its juices. Indoors, where they are not combating nature's challenges, mites multiply quickly and overwhelm gardens. Mites lay eggs after they mature, about two weeks after hatching. The females lay thousands of eggs over their lifetime. They hatch in about three days.

Mites inhabit the underside of the leaf and are not readily apparent. The first indication of their presence is usually the sight of tiny brown spots circled by small yellow areas. These areas indicate sites where mites have used their proboscises to puncture the leaf surface and suck the plant's sweet juices. As the population increases they begin to build webs and can be seen commuting from one feeding area to the next.

If only one plant or one section of a plant seems to be infected or if a plant is much more infected than the others in the garden, wrap it in a plastic bag to prevent infecting the other plants as you remove it from the garden.

If your plants are growing vegetatively you have quite a few options. First you can wash them with a moderately vigorous spray to knock down the mite population. This will help the plants by lessening their loss of vital juices. Prepare a spray with a teaspoon of real soap such as Dr. Bronner's peppermint or eucalyptus liquid soap per gallon of water, or spray with Safer's horticultural soap to help dislodge and suffocate the pests. Mites are found on the underside of the leaves and must be sprayed there. If the plants are small or easy to handle it might be easier to dip them in the soapy water. Spraying can remove most but not all the mites, and it doesn't remove the eggs.

A small mite infection left unchecked is a temporary condition. So it is unwise to go into flowering with infected plants. The problem is that after the plants are one third of the way through flowering, two to three weeks, you want to avoid spraying with water or soapy water to wash off the suckers.

Mites must be eliminated before forcing or when they attack plants in the early stages of flowering. If not they will multiply with disastrous results. The skimpy buds will be low quality and covered with dead mites. It's not an enjoyable smoke.

Spraying can be used to control mites through the vegetative stage and for the first two or three weeks of flowering. However, other means must be used to get the plants to the zero tolerance level. By far the easiest method is to use an acceptable miticide.

There are several commercial miticides that can be used early in the season to kill mites.

Pyrethrum has been used to kill mites. It is a natural pesticide produced by a close relative of the chrysanthemum. The problem with using it is that many races of mites have developed immunity to it. However, it is the first miticide you should try.

Cinnamite comes as a concentrate that is diluted and sprayed on the plants. It contains a miticide derived from cinnamon oil. It is very safe and is rated least hazardous. It is quite effective but it doesn't kill the eggs. It should be used every three days for two weeks to make sure all the mites are killed soon after they hatch. It is a contact spray so plants should be dipped or sprayed on the leaf undersides. It is also effective against powdery mildew.

Neem oil is a natural miticide derived from the nuts of the Neem tree, which is found in India. It is a mite repellent as well, so some gardeners use it as a prophylactic, spraying it on a weekly basis. I mix neem oil with Cinnamite to eliminate small infections. Cinnamite and neem oil are also used against powdery mildew.

For growers who distrust anything commercial, try an “herbal tea” that acts as a miticide. To each quart of water use a tablespoon each of ground cinnamon, ground clove and 2 tablespoons of ground Italian seasoning. Heat the mixture until it starts to simmer, then turn off the heat. Add 2 tablespoons crushed fresh garlic when the water cools to warm. Let the tea sit until it cools. Strain and save the water using a cloth or coffee filter. Add a few drops of liquid soap or dishwashing liquid to the water. It is ready to be sprayed on the leaf undersides. After spraying the mites off with water, spray it on the leaf undersides. It will eliminate the mites if it is sprayed every three days after the wash. Within two weeks the mites will probably be gone.

Avid is a miticide registered for ornamental plants. Its active ingredient is abamectin, a derivative of a toxin originally found in soil bacteria. Avid is not registered for use on vegetables except in certain restricted situations. Other brands of abamectin such as AgriMek by Syngenta are registered for a wide range of crops. The AgriMek label calls for a minimum of a seven day wait between application and harvest. I wouldn't use marijuana if I knew it was treated with this pesticide during the last few weeks of flowering.

Some gardeners have reported success controlling mites using predatory mites or other predators. These carnivorous mites reach an equilibrium with the herbivorous mites, keeping damage to a bare minimum. I have tried introducing mixed species of predatory mites a few times but have never been satisfied with the results. They did not get the problem under control. However, they can work and some gardeners swear by them. I probably didn't provide them with the right conditions. There are also other predators that eat mites, but I have no experience using them.

Ultimately, the solution to the mite problem and the pest problem in general is to prevent the garden from becoming infected. Following certain simple rules will help:
Wear freshly washed clothes or change into a garden outfit when going into the garden.

Never work outdoors, especially in a garden or other vegetative or turf area right before working in your indoor garden.

Pests are frequently carried in on shoes. Do like Mr. Rogers and change your footwear before you enter the garden.

Don't use outdoor soil, tools or containers in the indoor garden

If a plant is to be introduced to the garden, first do a close examination and then put it in quarantine for five or six days. Examine it closely, especially the underside of leaves, before placing it in the garden.

Close up any unfiltered airways or holes through which plant pests might enter. Make sure that air intake from outside is filtered.

Source: AskEd@cannabisculture
 
To me, it looks like two problems. You have mites, but it appears you may also have bud rot. I can't be sure from the photos.
Bummer to be this late in the grow and need to spray. I agree with Canna although I wouldn't bother with the soap in this case. A neem product should control mites but it takes multiple sprays - minimum of two about 4-5 days apart. Better would be three sprays. I've read mixed reviews of neem oil for rot (botrytis). My understanding is it does work. Try to keep RH lower and have plenty of air movement.

I think MAJOR nailed it. My buddy got bud rot a couple years ago and it looked just like the picture you uploaded. He cut the bud off and salvaged some of it. Kept a close eye on the rest of the buds. There were no more problems, but he still harvested early. Just cannot remember why. Lack of air circulation over the canopy caused it along with humidity in the 60's.
 
You are pretty far into flower. My suggestion Would be to mix neem oil with a little dawn dish soap and lots of water in a sprayer. The soap will give the bugs diarrhea till they die, and the oil will prevent them from coming back. You will need to do this weekly to ensure the hatched eggs die also. Make sure after you spray it, it's got a fan on it. I'd hate for you to get bud rot since you are so far in flower. I seriously hope this helps.
Then at harvest time you will need to do bud washings to get the oil and soap off of them.

thank u for the advices but unfortunately i cut the bigger buds...its ok..i am not pleased but i am not unhappy.this one strain never go to get something...i did it as an experiment to try to get my best yield ever from one plant outdoor in pot soil...i will follow ur advices to the other half plant is left.i see the buds i cut now they r drying is too too early for harvest..even earlier than me.
i hope it will works to get at least the other half full potency.i hope so...
and a nice news...i make a special cannabutter from 3-4 different strains.and here i ant to notice all the autos preemie budsi cut i am very pleased..nice looking buds.nice smell...and strong buzz...thank u canna.thank u very much
 
To me, it looks like two problems. You have mites, but it appears you may also have bud rot. I can't be sure from the photos.
Bummer to be this late in the grow and need to spray. I agree with Canna although I wouldn't bother with the soap in this case. A neem product should control mites but it takes multiple sprays - minimum of two about 4-5 days apart. Better would be three sprays. I've read mixed reviews of neem oil for rot (botrytis). My understanding is it does work. Try to keep RH lower and have plenty of air movement.

my problem is i dont have acces to tis ...i must wait to order...a home rwcipe i could make..but to buy something like this ...we dont have it here to buy it straight away.than u
but u r right...it isnot only mites problems coz i had a lot experience wih mites and i can understand from looking at.i dont know what is bud rot....also i cant understand some other things and i have to study ur replies to undersand correctly what u mean.thank u.:Namaste:
 
all these i hear and my exeriece in past made me dissapointed...last time ik gave 2 much money to get rid of them..soap with pure alchohol....i pay 16 euros for a bottle and i bought more than 16 euros the one...i will use the soap with some soaked chilli peppers and spray it with this every 2 days..if this succed its ok if not succed i dont care...in my last journals i put in cotton 15 seeds and i un-succed to most of them..i get used to use the un-succed attemptions....thank u guys but i cant have hard batlle with those litle bastards.
 
mites look quite bad and you wont get rid of them this late in flower, not without destroying plant anyway. Dont spray the plant with anything as it also looks like bud rot. any spray will make it way worse.

Sometimes its better to bite the bullet and start from scratch. Make sure when you have taken the plant down that you treat the space for mites with several applications of a couple different mite sprays. Neem works as a deterrent but is unlikely to eradicate mites that are established. when you set your next plant away treat the plant for mites while it is in veg also, they are difficult to control and eradicate.
 
..i make a shower to all my plants...tne small ones and the last plant in flowering phase.i use a spray made by me....reading the recipe here in 420...i soak chilli peppers and tobaco...i fliter it and put in some soap and a small ampunt of alchohol...i tottaly wet the them,using my hands as well to go everywhere..i will see how long it will stand..if i see bad signs i will cut it and sterilize the whole plave withh bleech.last time i found a small piece of bud drie...colour like the falling leaves.brown colour...and afraid i am gonna lose it all...but i cut the most effected branches and now bath with this recipe.i know wet is not good for buds in flowering but is better than mites...thank u all for replies...especially this big script from cbgb.thank u all of u guys.we ll talk soon.this is my last journal..i want to stop posting on internet those things coz i used to have problems with the law for weed.
 
mites look quite bad and you wont get rid of them this late in flower, not without destroying plant anyway. Dont spray the plant with anything as it also looks like bud rot. any spray will make it way worse.

Sometimes its better to bite the bullet and start from scratch. Make sure when you have taken the plant down that you treat the space for mites with several applications of a couple different mite sprays. Neem works as a deterrent but is unlikely to eradicate mites that are established. when you set your next plant away treat the plant for mites while it is in veg also, they are difficult to control and eradicate.

wow...thank u very much...it is the reply i would like to hear...i know mites is a big pain..i can get rid of them if i take of the affected one.this one.others are very small.i dont know what means bud rot?
because those signs is notonly spidermites.i know how look like if only spidermites.something else going on here
 
lok i see what bud rot means..well..i have spidermites that need humidity with soap or elsr...and i have bud rot it needs dry contitions...only thing i can do is let it go and take care the new ones not to be like this.if she will give me something to smoke she will be very nice...if not i dont care..shit happens

forgot to say something.... i try 5 --6 times purple strains and never made it...now i have a purple kush auto regular and from day 7 is in flower and the calyx case is lready purple...it is female..prefer male..and already show that i will have a main olas purple bud...yeah!!!!!!that was the good news..lol...
 
I don't know how far into flowering you can use it but I had a similar problem last cycle. I used a product called azamax. It's supposed to be made of plant products so I decided to give it a chance. I had great results. Bugs died that day and instantly everything cleared up. Maybe some of the more experienced guys can help better but this was my experience. Stuff was 6 bucks at a local grow shop.
 
ok i remember something ...beore this happened i had a nute burn from overfeeding...it was a big nute burn so i use a lot of water to run of the pot ...but i mean a lot of water..after the nuteburn and the flushing under the tab water this plant goes like this..just realise this...yes..after this begin everthing
 
I don't know how far into flowering you can use it but I had a similar problem last cycle. I used a product called azamax. It's supposed to be made of plant products so I decided to give it a chance. I had great results. Bugs died that day and instantly everything cleared up. Maybe some of the more experienced guys can help better but this was my experience. Stuff was 6 bucks at a local grow shop.

In theory you can uses Azamax/Azatrol right up until harvest. But once you've smelled the stuff, there's no way I would. It breaks down quickly, but I can still smell its stink for about three days after a spray. I try to not use anything after early bloom, but you gotta do what you gotta do sometimes.
 
In theory you can uses Azamax/Azatrol right up until harvest. But once you've smelled the stuff, there's no way I would. It breaks down quickly, but I can still smell its stink for about three days after a spray. I try to not use anything after early bloom, but you gotta do what you gotta do sometimes.
I agree. It's not exactly the worst smelling stuff but it's far from the best smell either. I know it works and doesn't kill the plant though. It sucks getting hit this late in flowering. Almost anything you do will affect your final product in some way.
 
In theory you can uses Azamax/Azatrol right up until harvest. But once you've smelled the stuff, there's no way I would. It breaks down quickly, but I can still smell its stink for about three days after a spray. I try to not use anything after early bloom, but you gotta do what you gotta do sometimes.

I agree. It's not exactly the worst smelling stuff but it's far from the best smell either. I know it works and doesn't kill the plant though. It sucks getting hit this late in flowering. Almost anything you do will affect your final product in some way.

guys this plant was a batlle lost...i can say this coz i could see everyday how it was doing...everyday the dry goesmore into buds...i harvest it..i have 5 more autos and i want to fight mites now i have only litlle leaves....litlle leaves notmuch leaves can fight mites easiest than a whole plant cover from mites...so og kush finished..i will keep it last to smoke...it is better to smoke a very preemiethan nothing...thanks everyone for trying to help me..guys u r very nice...this is a nice forum,,everyone help each other...appriciate this...hope everythink goes well :thanks::thumb::volcano-smiley::volcano-smiley::volcano-smiley:
 
Back
Top Bottom