DWC Bubbler Grow Tent First Attempt

[musikgenman]

I am going to do what I did the first time...keep my seedlings highly humidified until roots shoot out of the rockwool...then I will move them into hydroton...I dont know if it matters too much. But someone pointed out to me and I think it true, that the light will help the rockwool cubes dry out. So I did and will continue to completely bury the rockwool cube in hydroton so no light shines on it. I dont know as of yet if this is completely true but I figured it couldn't hurt.

Musik \\\vVv///

 

[The Butcher]

day 6!
i didnt want to take a pic cuz i wasnt tryin to keep the roots out of solution for long.. always tryna be super fast about doin anything in the res (like puttin the suckers on that g*damn stupid air stone tube back on the floor of the res...as;dighas;ldkghas!!!) but there are some roots chillin in the water =D.. i was pretty excited about that, more on plant a, it has lil "rootlets" on its long root.. also not completely white, so the next product will be some hygrozyme

Sounds like they will come around fine. Just consider your losses just you pulling the weak ones out.If you planning on just keeping the two my suggestion would be to put one diaginal from the other and either scrog or L.S.T.. this would be your best bet. And the hygrozyme is exspensive but the proof is in the pics. with you rladies coming from seed that tap root is going to swallow up that hygrzyme for sure.

 

[WheeloFortune]

"the sanctity of this place has been fowled" . . .

"AHHH FRESH MEAT!!!!"

lol.

 

[BlazeSour]

Odorous you're right our tents look almost identical lol. good luck on your grow and I'm definitely in on this one.

 

[WeedyMcWeedWeed]

hey sorry it took so long to answer, no i dont use seaweed kelp. but it would appear that and hydroton was your problem

 

[Odorous]

wow wheelo you just made my goddamn night!... ive been LOLing about those quotes for like 10 minutes now haha walkin around my place like "Fresh Meat mwahaha" haa shiiit..

butcher: yea yea im actually growing some sprouts on the side .. gonna go ahead n fill those 2 spots in but thats funny you JUST mention that, cuz right after i took pics last night i switched em like duhh ha plus thats like the way air stone/tube is.. which wont stay plugged to the bottom of the tub but its cool i dont have a LOT of roots right now n its kinda just floating against the net pots.. ima wait til next res change and plug it to the bottom before i fill it, that should do the trick

musik: word man thanks for checkin out the grow, and ima do the same with the next 2 rwcubes.. keep em completely covered

weedy: yup, it seems like the seaweeds gonna settle again, ima wait n just steer it all back up by hand

blaze: hell yeah man ima be checkin yours as well for sure brother

 

[Odorous]

day 7!

plant A

plant b

group

 

[Odorous]

day 8!

seems like i def saw some growth over the past night and today

plant a.. lol its got 2 2fingered leaves insteada 3.. i wonder if that would be from stress? or maybe the heat? hm.. speaking of, i got the temps down to 80 all the time now, water at 74 steady

and plant b

they look pretty light green.. does this mean that i could get away with a stronger nute solution??..

 

[Doctor Dread]

Looks good dude! They'll be huge before you know it.

It's ON...

 

[Odorous]

o yeah.. its gettin sweeter by the day.. ive grown once before but it was very amateur, i still harvested like an oz or so of decent stuff but :/ eh ... this is exciting tho im diggin the hydro

can anyone answer my ? .... i think its a pretty noob question but if the plants real light like that, that prolly means she could use some more nutes right??

 

[WheeloFortune]

they look good to me, i'd just keep on doin what your doin.

 

[WeedyMcWeedWeed]

i agree with wheelo, keep doing what your doing. when they get bigger then up the strength

 

[The Butcher]

i agree with WHELL and WEEDY on this one just leave the nutes how they are you dont want to burn them with to many nutes. As long as your getting some growth i would leave it til you at least a couple more sets of leafs.How strong is the nutes rite now?

 

[The Butcher]

they look good to me, i'd just keep on doin what your doin.

i agree with wheelo, keep doing what your doing. when they get bigger then up the strength

i agree with WHEEL and WEEDY on this one just leave the nutes how they are you dont want to burn them with to many nutes. As long as your getting some growth i would leave it til you at least a couple more sets of leafs.How strong is the nutes rite now?

 

[Odorous]

about 150 ppms.. its like 200 now from ph regulation

 

[musikgenman]

If you check out the 2 plants I have left. You will wonder, How did they get so big. Now each plant, according to what i've learned on this site and others, is that each plant has a limited genetic make-up. Meaning its already programmed how big the plant could get, how many nutes it can eat up, how much sun energy it can max with. And it seems that most growers, especailly ones using the CFL's nowadays, are not even coming close to maximizing potential of the plants.

Now I guess we would have to compare nutes and TDS testers. When each plant had at least 3 nodes I felt comfortable saying that my plants were in vegetation, and gave max nutes, about 1100-1200ppm. Any higher than that I would have definately been burning the plants. They will grow at 200ppm for sure. The very minimum the plant can grow with is plain ph'd H2O. Now of course feeding your plants food will make it bigger, more bud sites, bigger buds..etc.etc.
If it were me i would at least each week up the nutes 100 -200 ppm until the plant tells you that is enough.
I would do this because I, like many others, want to maximize the potential of our plants, yields and all.
If you are limited on space, trying to keep the plants short, LSTing then I might stick around the 200ppm. And raise the ppm slower maybe to half of 1100-1200ppm.

Now I am no expert and honestly I am a noob at this, no lie. And my plants grew way bigger than I expected. I'm cool with that, but now after one grow I understand a little better what to do with my plants to keep them the size I want and still get the yield I am looking for. I have a 3.5 foot plant and a 4.5 foot plant.

To truly maximize the potential of the plants, however, you need to use the power of the sun. My light emits about 55,000 lumens, while the suns rays hit the planet at over 200,000 lumens if I remember correctly. And I dont want to get into wavelengths and distance and all that. Just trying to say, which im sure most understand, is that the best place to maximize a light source is to grow marijuana under the sun.

You'll be in flowering in no time. How long were you planning on keeping them in vegetation?
You might want to consider moving your light closer one inch or so per day. Then you could say that you are maximizing the potential of your light source.
The edges of the leaves might yellow slightly and that is one way to know that your light is too close.


Anyhow just some friendly advice, something to think about. I myself am still wrapping my head around this.

Musik \\\vVv///

 

[Odorous]

thanks musik!... see im not really worried about killing the plant with too much nutes ya know.. im trying to push it to the limit cuz thats something i never did with previous grows.. i always went real shy with nutes... thats why NOW im trying to see what i can actually do to make these plants Shaweet right? so next time i change res, ima up to like 300ppm maybe 4...

i wanted to them to get ehh arouuunnnddd... 3ft at harvest so like 1.5 - 2 veg.. i plan on cloning offa these ones n seeing if theyre female b4 i straight flower them so i can take 4 more clones to keep this going since i have a seperate flower room. right now the light is as close as it Can be without lifting the tub closer to it.. and the tubs very small, i think for my next res change and uppage of the nutes ima get the bigger tub and another air stone probably ... the lights are t5 floros and i plan on using a 400w hps for flower, which ive yet to purchase :/

thanks again musikman

 

[musikgenman]

Of course both plants started small, the light was a good 12-15 inches above both plants. After I switched to 12/12, the darndest thing happened. One plant kept on growing while the other one stopped. I only had one choice. As I raised the lights for the one plant, I had to raise the other plant up to the light. Thankfully the one on the left stopped growing. LOL

Just thought I'd share

You gotta do what you gotta do.

Musik \\\vVv///

 

[Odorous]

yeah well if you see the earlier pics, i have a lil too box thing under my tub right now, raising it up to the light, i just dont want it any closer cuz its getttin too hottttt

 

[WheeloFortune]

musik,

lux, lumens, watts, footcandles, candela, illuminance and irradiance. par watts, photometric units, radiometric units, my goodness, how the hell does one sort all this shit out? fortunately I have a degree in physics. lol.

Lux is the SI unit of luminous emittance. It is used in photometry as a measure of the apparent intensity of light hitting or passing through a surface. It is analogous to the radiometric unit watts per square metre, but with the power at each wavelength weighted according to the luminosity function, a standardized model of human visual (but not circadian) brightness perception.

The difference between the lux and the lumen is that the lux takes into account the area over which the luminous flux is spread. A flux of 1,000 lumens, concentrated into an area of one square metre, lights up that square metre with an illuminance of 1,000 lux. However, the same 1,000 lumens, spread out over ten square metres, produces a dimmer illuminance of only 100 lux.

Like all photometric units, the lux has a corresponding "radiometric" unit. The difference between any photometric unit and its corresponding radiometric unit is that radiometric units are based on physical power, with all wavelengths being weighted equally, while photometric units take into account the fact that the human eye's visual system is more sensitive to some wavelengths than others, and accordingly every wavelength is given a different weight. The weighting factor is known as the luminosity function.

Lux is one lumen/metre2, and the corresponding radiometric unit, which measures irradiance, is the watt/metre2. There is no single conversion factor between lux and watt/metre2; there is a different conversion factor for every wavelength, and it is not possible to make a conversion unless one knows the spectral composition of the light.

The peak of the luminosity function is at 555 nm (green); the eye's visual system is more sensitive to light of this wavelength than any other. For monochromatic light of this wavelength, the irradiance needed to make one lux is minimum, at 1.464 mW/m2. That is, one obtains 683.002 lux per W/m2 (or lumens per watt) at this wavelength. Other wavelengths of visible light produce fewer lumens per watt. The luminosity function falls to zero for wavelengths outside the visible spectrum.

For a light source with mixed wavelengths, the number of lumens per watt can be calculated by means of the luminosity function. In order to appear reasonably "white," a light source cannot consist solely of the green light to which the eye's visual photoreceptors are most sensitive, but must include a generous mixture of red and blue wavelengths to which they are much less sensitive.

This means that white (or whitish) light sources produce far fewer lumens per watt than the theoretical maximum of 683 lumens per watt. The ratio between the actual number of lumens per watt and the theoretical maximum is expressed as a percentage known as the luminous efficiency. For example, a typical incandescent light bulb has a luminous efficiency of only about 2%.

if you still care about lux,

400 lux Sunrise or sunset on a clear day.
1,000 lux Overcast day
10,000–25,000 lux Full daylight (not direct sun)
32,000–130,000 lux Direct sunlight

What you want to be looking at is PAR watts

Photosynthetically active radiation, often abbreviated PAR, designates the spectral range (wave band) of solar radiation from 400 to 700 nanometers that photosynthetic organisms are able to use in the process of photosynthesis. This spectral region corresponds more or less with the range of light visible to the human eye. Photons at shorter wavelengths tend to be so energetic that they can be damaging to cells and tissues, but are mostly filtered out by the ozone layer in the stratosphere. Photons at longer wavelengths do not carry enough energy to allow photosynthesis to take place.

PUR (Photosynthetically Usable Radiation) should also be considered. PUR is that fraction of PAR that is absorbed by zooxanthellae photopigments thereby stimulating photosynthesis. PUR are those wavelengths falling between 400-550nm and 620-700nm.

It is important to note that PAR is an irradiance-type measurement. In research on photosynthesis, when PAR is expressed on a quantum basis, it is often given the special term photosynthetic photon flux density (PPFD)

SO. . . . . . how much light is there on a sunny day and what is the relationship between PAR irradiance and PAR fluence rate? Under direct sunlight, PAR irradiance and fluence rate are both about 2000 µmol m–2 s–1, though higher values can be measured at high altitudes. The corresponding value in energy units is about 400 W m–2.


another big consideration is light penetration, since the intensity does not really decrease with such a small distance from sunlight. but does from a small bulb like 1000w. lol.


anyways. . . sorry for the long post, but there is a lot of confusion because there isn't a dominant method for calculating illuminance.


anayways. . . i always consider the sun to be the 400 watts/meter^2