Need info on using CO2 in grow room

[Barney86]

NOT MY GROW!


CHECK THE FUCKIN STATE OF THAT MONSTROCITY !!!!

My buddy on another forum grew that beast. (Pic 1 with the tiny pot underneath)
In a 15L pot of Coco/peri.
Autopot though. Bottom feeds the plants 24/7 without any electronics. Just a simple float valve and gravity. Feeds the plants the perfect amount all day long without it effecting the reservoir.
It will be the same after a week as it was when you made it.

If roots or other things blocking mechanics are something you've been told about Id assume it was down to use error. Rambo grows KISS. nothing fancy. 600w HPS per metre and 1 plant per metre. 500-800g per plant every time. Even with autos!
He taught me half of what I know and he's never mentioned it being an issue.
He is a good teacher though.
There's my second ever plant.

All 3 are pictures of individual autos. Only 1 per picture.

Once again, the big one with the tiny pot IS NOT mine.

I got 600g in NFT with pretty equal lighting... He got 800g from that beast in a 15L pot of Coco!

If that doesn't show you how good autopots are, nothing will.
All the pros with none of the cons.
And no, sadly they don't sponsor me to say that but if your watching ;-)

 

[Barney86]

Now I'm really confused. Everything I've heard or read said Co2 does no good unless your tent is running hot above 90 F.
But you say 70 - 86 F ? Well Hell's Bells ... Not sure which way to go now.

Go away from the co2 lol.

 

[Aroxol]

NOT MY GROW!


CHECK THE FUCKIN STATE OF THAT MONSTROCITY !!!!

My buddy on another forum grew that beast. (Pic 1 with the tiny pot underneath)
In a 15L pot of Coco/peri.
Autopot though. Bottom feeds the plants 24/7 without any electronics. Just a simple float valve and gravity. Feeds the plants the perfect amount all day long without it effecting the reservoir.
It will be the same after a week as it was when you made it.

If roots or other things blocking mechanics are something you've been told about Id assume it was down to use error. Rambo grows KISS. nothing fancy. 600w HPS per metre and 1 plant per metre. 500-800g per plant every time. Even with autos!
He taught me half of what I know and he's never mentioned it being an issue.
He is a good teacher though.
There's my second ever plant.

All 3 are pictures of individual autos. Only 1 per picture.

Once again, the big one with the tiny pot IS NOT mine.

I got 600g in NFT with pretty equal lighting... He got 800g from that beast in a 15L pot of Coco!

If that doesn't show you how good autopots are, nothing will.
All the pros with none of the cons.
And no, sadly they don't sponsor me to say that but if your watching ;-)

Hell yeah. What nute line is he running with his AP? Maybe convo me, I’d like to connect with him.

 

[Buds Buddy]

Now that's a Beauty !!! I only grow them in my dreams ...LOL.
Anyway, I was checking out the Auto pot set ups. Looks like both the 3.9 & 5 gallon pots both come with the same size reservoir (12.4 gal.) Whether it's a 1 pot system or a 6 pot system it still has the same reservoir. The thing that's different is you either buy the Smart pot or the square pot system. The smart pot system is $20 - $30 cheaper. I was looking at the 4 pot system with square pots (5-gal). That runs about $240. So what size Perlite & Brand of coco do you recommend ? I don't know much about coco. I have a couple of bricks of it but never used it. I'll order the Autopot system tomorrow & buy the other stuff over the weekend.
I'm just wondering how this works as far as nutrients go. I'm use to a Feed, Water, Water schedule. Not sure how it's done with a reservoir. Now will this need R/O water or purified water or will tap water work once pH'd ? Just want to get it right the 1st time. Also, does the reservoir stay outside or inside the tent. I'm guessing outside but who knows.
Have you found any Nutrients that seem to be better than others? If so, what have you found to be best?
Yeah, I'll take all the info I can get.

 

[Barney86]

Now that's a Beauty !!! I only grow them in my dreams ...LOL.
Anyway, I was checking out the Auto pot set ups. Looks like both the 3.9 & 5 gallon pots both come with the same size reservoir (12.4 gal.) Whether it's a 1 pot system or a 6 pot system it still has the same reservoir. The thing that's different is you either buy the Smart pot or the square pot system. The smart pot system is $20 - $30 cheaper. I was looking at the 4 pot system with square pots (5-gal). That runs about $240. So what size Perlite & Brand of coco do you recommend ? I don't know much about coco. I have a couple of bricks of it but never used it. I'll order the Autopot system tomorrow & buy the other stuff over the weekend.
I'm just wondering how this works as far as nutrients go. I'm use to a Feed, Water, Water schedule. Not sure how it's done with a reservoir. Now will this need R/O water or purified water or will tap water work once pH'd ? Just want to get it right the 1st time. Also, does the reservoir stay outside or inside the tent. I'm guessing outside but who knows.
Have you found any Nutrients that seem to be better than others? If so, what have you found to be best?
Yeah, I'll take all the info I can get.

That's expensive! You tried eBay for them? Usually half the price of Amazon etc. There's not much difference in brands of perilite. When it comes to Coco though just make sure it's natural, plain Coco. Nothing else in it. No additives or root boosters or fancy enzymes. Just get bog standard, plain, Coco coir. The ones with additives are unpredictable.
Nutrient wise, personally I'm a Dutch pro fan but in terms of popularity it has to be Advanced nutes. More guys use that than anything else and they can't all be wrong.
Res outside the tent with a fishtank heater in it is the best option. Keeps it stable. Don't need to worry about the lights heating it up or whatever. That size will do you though.
Gotta hand water for about 2 weeks till the roots hit the bottom and start feeding from the Res. Then just fill the Res with quarter strength nutes and wait till the bottoms start going yellow around week 4 before upping it to half strength. No more wondering if you need to feed, they just feed themselves whenever they want. Pretty ingenious system like.
All the pros with none of the cons.

 

[Buds Buddy]

That's expensive! You tried eBay for them? Usually half the price of Amazon etc. There's not much difference in brands of perilite. When it comes to Coco though just make sure it's natural, plain Coco. Nothing else in it. No additives or root boosters or fancy enzymes. Just get bog standard, plain, Coco coir. The ones with additives are unpredictable.
Nutrient wise, personally I'm a Dutch pro fan but in terms of popularity it has to be Advanced nutes. More guys use that than anything else and they can't all be wrong.
Res outside the tent with a fishtank heater in it is the best option. Keeps it stable. Don't need to worry about the lights heating it up or whatever. That size will do you though.
Gotta hand water for about 2 weeks till the roots hit the bottom and start feeding from the Res. Then just fill the Res with quarter strength nutes and wait till the bottoms start going yellow around week 4 before upping it to half strength. No more wondering if you need to feed, they just feed themselves whenever they want. Pretty ingenious system like.
All the pros with none of the cons.

Yes, those are the Ebay prices. What I meant by perlite was the size. It comes in Lg. Rocks, Med. Rocks & Sm. Rocks. Used the word Rocks cuz I couldn't think of a good term for it. When you do the pots do you just put Perlite only in the very bottom or the mix of perlite & coco ? Any idea how much of each I'll need for 4 - 5 gal pots ? I'm guessing @ 3 Bags Coco & 1 Bag Perlite ( 2- cu. ft. bags).
I've already started to switch over to AN products so that's a good thing. I have a brand new aquarium heater & pump that I bought to build a Co2 Bucket & changed my mind so I'm good there too. Looking forward to trying this out but I have full tents right now. But at least I'll have it all ready to go once they're done.
I wonder why they say to dump the over run trays after watering. If roots are fine in Hydro, Auto-Pots, etc.... Why aren't they in over run water? Doesn't make a lot of since to me.

 

[Barney86]

Yes, those are the Ebay prices. What I meant by perlite was the size. It comes in Lg. Rocks, Med. Rocks & Sm. Rocks. Used the word Rocks cuz I couldn't think of a good term for it. When you do the pots do you just put Perlite only in the very bottom or the mix of perlite & coco ? Any idea how much of each I'll need for 4 - 5 gal pots ? I'm guessing @ 3 Bags Coco & 1 Bag Perlite ( 2- cu. ft. bags).
I've already started to switch over to AN products so that's a good thing. I have a brand new aquarium heater & pump that I bought to build a Co2 Bucket & changed my mind so I'm good there too. Looking forward to trying this out but I have full tents right now. But at least I'll have it all ready to go once they're done.
I wonder why they say to dump the over run trays after watering. If roots are fine in Hydro, Auto-Pots, etc.... Why aren't they in over run water? Doesn't make a lot of since to me.

It's only soil growers that need to worry about the run off mate. Soil is surprisingly shit at growing plants lol and prone to all sorts of problems that nobody else gets. It's to do with a lack of oxygen in the media. The plants basically suffocate.
In terms of coco/perilite ratio, there is no wrong answer. Can grow in straight perilite if you really want to. Most people go for perilite at the bottom then a 70/30 coco/peri mix for the rest. Gives about the right mix of water retention and drainage. 30% peri also makes it pretty impossible to give too much water. It's hard enough in straight coco but with peri added you can try but I've never seen it.

 

[West Hippie]

I run CO2 in a controlled environment, tent room set for 76-76 because my CO2 controller sets the ppm to 1475 ! Less then 45 minutes into the run my temp goes from 76 to 86-89 degrees. The only air moving is the circulation fans , exhaust shuts down or otherwise it will suck the CO2 tank dry in 12 hours. The lighting is a kind k5 750w and I can’t tell the difference of using it or not !

 

[SmokeyMcFly]

Ok a couple things

First of all over 90 degrees is to hot esp with low rh your plants are going to spend to much energy transpiring water to try and cool themselves.

To run c02 you ideally need something like a mini split that will cool your grow area without exhausting the air to do it. Otherwise you will just be blowing the c02 out as fast as you’re adding it.

C02 should be used almost as steroids would be for a bodybuilder that already has everything else perfected to increase yields not as a band aid to try and fix other problems like a room that is to hot.

To run c02 correctly along with a sealed room you need a way to measure the ppm of c02 in the room so you can add more when it needs it without getting to a saturation that could be poisonous for you and the plants.

There are a couple kinds of c02 controllers some work off of dumb time and leave it up to you to use a different device to keep it measured and tune it correctly to dose the right amounts. The better ones have a c02 meter built in and will dose based on how much c02 is currently In the room compared to how much you told it you want to be in the room.

My advice is figure out a way to kee your flower temps down below 85 first then work on getting your rh right. Once those things are worked out you can start considering what you would need to do to run c02 correctly.

Soil grows can grow better weed than hydro if you use doc buds high Brix kit. It also has enough minerals that you never need to worry about ph or measuring run off. This is the easiest way to grow exceptional weed period and what I would recommend to everyone looking to improve their grow as the first step. Also the air to the roots things someone mentioned is very true and why most new growers overwater. The best way to get air in the root system with a soil grow is to dunk the pots in a five gal bucket of water I do it for my plants through veg once they’re flowering the root system is developed enough to not need it as much. The trick is to push the pot down in the water and let iT force itself up through the soil until the air bubbles stop coming out of the top which forced the old used up air out of the soil. Now pull it up out of the water and tilt it to one side and let as much of that water run out as possible now tilt to the other sides and do the same. The water running out of the soil will pull fresh air in al through the soil. The plants esp the roots LOVE it!

If you want to see what all it takes to setup a proper sealed room with dedicated temp, humidity and c02 controls check out the build thread in my sig, I started from scratch and it’s almost finished being setup at this point.

Gl

 

[West Hippie]

Ok a couple things

First of all over 90 degrees is to hot esp with low rh your plants are going to spend to much energy transpiring water to try and cool themselves.

To run c02 you ideally need something like a mini split that will cool your grow area without exhausting the air to do it. Otherwise you will just be blowing the c02 out as fast as you’re adding it.

C02 should be used almost as steroids would be for a bodybuilder that already has everything else perfected to increase yields not as a band aid to try and fix other problems like a room that is to hot.

To run c02 correctly along with a sealed room you need a way to measure the ppm of c02 in the room so you can add more when it needs it without getting to a saturation that could be poisonous for you and the plants.

There are a couple kinds of c02 controllers some work off of dumb time and leave it up to you to use a different device to keep it measured and tune it correctly to dose the right amounts. The better ones have a c02 meter built in and will dose based on how much c02 is currently In the room compared to how much you told it you want to be in the room.

My advice is figure out a way to kee your flower temps down below 85 first then work on getting your rh right. Once those things are worked out you can start considering what you would need to do to run c02 correctly.

Soil grows can grow better weed than hydro if you use doc buds high Brix kit. It also has enough minerals that you never need to worry about ph or measuring run off. This is the easiest way to grow exceptional weed period and what I would recommend to everyone looking to improve their grow as the first step.

If you want to see what all it takes to setup a proper sealed room with dedicated temp, humidity and c02 controls check out the build thread in my sig, I started from scratch and it’s almost finished being setup at this point.

Gl

I did forget to say the humidity is high 70-90% !

 

[SmokeyMcFly]

I did forget to say the humidity is high 70-90% !

Oh I thought You had to low rh which would make high daytime temps even more damaging. You do need to get the nighttime rh down or you will probably end up with bud rot or PM the second half of flowering. I just had to order a new dehuy myself the first one I got isn’t working right so I’m having a hard time keeping mine down also which is a totally new experience for me, I live in the desert all my past grows we’re unsealed so I always had a not enough rh problem in my past setups.

 

[Barney86]

Ok a couple things

First of all over 90 degrees is to hot esp with low rh your plants are going to spend to much energy transpiring water to try and cool themselves.

To run c02 you ideally need something like a mini split that will cool your grow area without exhausting the air to do it. Otherwise you will just be blowing the c02 out as fast as you’re adding it.

C02 should be used almost as steroids would be for a bodybuilder that already has everything else perfected to increase yields not as a band aid to try and fix other problems like a room that is to hot.

To run c02 correctly along with a sealed room you need a way to measure the ppm of c02 in the room so you can add more when it needs it without getting to a saturation that could be poisonous for you and the plants.

There are a couple kinds of c02 controllers some work off of dumb time and leave it up to you to use a different device to keep it measured and tune it correctly to dose the right amounts. The better ones have a c02 meter built in and will dose based on how much c02 is currently In the room compared to how much you told it you want to be in the room.

My advice is figure out a way to kee your flower temps down below 85 first then work on getting your rh right. Once those things are worked out you can start considering what you would need to do to run c02 correctly.

Soil grows can grow better weed than hydro if you use doc buds high Brix kit. It also has enough minerals that you never need to worry about ph or measuring run off. This is the easiest way to grow exceptional weed period and what I would recommend to everyone looking to improve their grow as the first step. Also the air to the roots things someone mentioned is very true and why most new growers overwater. The best way to get air in the root system with a soil grow is to dunk the pots in a five gal bucket of water I do it for my plants through veg once they’re flowering the root system is developed enough to not need it as much. The trick is to push the pot down in the water and let iT force itself up through the soil until the air bubbles stop coming out of the top which forced the old used up air out of the soil. Now pull it up out of the water and tilt it to one side and let as much of that water run out as possible now tilt to the other sides and do the same. The water running out of the soil will pull fresh air in al through the soil. The plants esp the roots LOVE it!

If you want to see what all it takes to setup a proper sealed room with dedicated temp, humidity and c02 controls check out the build thread in my sig, I started from scratch and it’s almost finished being setup at this point.

Gl

Mate your getting tagged every time I see this now lol.

 

[West Hippie]

Oh I thought You had to low rh which would make high daytime temps even more damaging. You do need to get the nighttime rh down or you will probably end up with bud rot or PM the second half of flowering. I just had to order a new dehuy myself the first one I got isn’t working right so I’m having a hard time keeping mine down also which is a totally new experience for me, I live in the desert all my past grows we’re unsealed so I always had a not enough rh problem in my past setups.

I quit at 2 weeks into flower just because of that . My first grow here I only used it in veg and didn’t like the stretch! I do have the controller to maintain the amount , not just a timer . I’ll probably never use it again , I found out in 420 it’s the light that makes the beefy bud! For someone that has used it I don’t recommend spending $ on it !

 

[SmokeyMcFly]

Now I'm really confused. Everything I've heard or read said Co2 does no good unless your tent is running hot above 90 F.
But you say 70 - 86 F ? Well Hell's Bells ... Not sure which way to go now.

A higher temp will give the plants a higher metabolism rate to a point. If everything is perfect and the plants can fulfill their needs at the increased rate life is good you increased yields. If they can’t fulfill their needs they will have issues show up faster and they will affect the plants more drastically than if they were growing at a slower rate.

If you can run the following and have the ability to adjust what you need to through the cycle and for different plant needs it’s time to star looking at increasing your metabolism rate to increase yield so something around the following for base settings:
rh 45-70 % lights on depending on strain and time of the cycle the later in flower the lower they like

Light intensity is high enough ~1500 umols at canopy minimum which takes 1k watts true elec draw with efficient leds in my 5x5 to attain

C02 levels ~1500-1600ppm during lights on for most of flowering

Perfect nute levels and no burn may need to increase these as you increase temps.

Once you have got to this point the plant has everything it needs to be able safely to increase its metabolism rate which happens when you increase the temperature. Now is when you start dialing the temps up a little at a time to see how hard you can push the plants you’re growing and what you need to tweak to keep them happy at the new growth rate.

85 is the high end of what you should run for most strains without c02 with it you should be shooting for 85 -90 starting at the low end and working up slowly learning what you can get away with and how much more they want to eat etc with the higher temps.

Over 90 is pretty high for most strains even with c02. It maybe possible to have everything else keep up with a metabolism that high but it’s not gonna be easy and it will probably be better to ease into and out of a temp that high for only part of flowering to have it not be detrimental to growth.

Basically higher temps can be used to increase growth rates if everything is perfect. If your adding c02 to try and compensate for not having control of your temps (can’t keep it below 85 with enough light to make c02 worth it) you would be much better off investing the money in a better cooling solution.

 

[Barney86]

A higher temp will give the plants a higher metabolism rate to a point. If everything is perfect and the plants can fulfill their needs at the increased rate life is good you increased yields. If they can’t fulfill their needs they will have issues show up faster and they will affect the plants more drastically than if they were growing at a slower rate.

If you can run the following and have the ability to adjust what you need to through the cycle and for different plant needs it’s time to star looking at increasing your metabolism rate to increase yield so something around the following for base settings:
rh 45-70 % lights on depending on strain and time of the cycle the later in flower the lower they like

Light intensity is high enough ~1500 umols at canopy minimum which takes 1k watts true elec draw with efficient leds in my 5x5 to attain

C02 levels ~1500-1600ppm during lights on for most of flowering

Perfect nute levels and no burn may need to increase these as you increase temps.

Once you have got to this point the plant has everything it needs to be able safely to increase its metabolism rate which happens when you increase the temperature. Now is when you start dialing the temps up a little at a time to see how hard you can push the plants you’re growing and what you need to tweak to keep them happy at the new growth rate.

85 is the high end of what you should run for most strains without c02 with it you should be shooting for 85 -90 starting at the low end and working up slowly learning what you can get away with and how much more they want to eat etc with the higher temps.

Over 90 is pretty high for most strains even with c02. It maybe possible to have everything else keep up with a metabolism that high but it’s not gonna be easy and it will probably be better to ease into and out of a temp that high for only part of flowering to have it not be detrimental to growth.

Basically higher temps can be used to increase growth rates if everything is perfect. If your adding c02 to try and compensate for not having control of your temps (can’t keep it below 85 with enough light to make c02 worth it) you would be much better off investing the money in a better cooling solution.

Mate where have you been all my life?!! Over 3 years I've been foruming now and youre the only person that agrees with me that higher temps is better.
I even run my Res at 27*c most of the time. Always minimal 25*c for bloom. Tent temps (when I had one) were 29-31*c as much as I could help it.
33*c is where it started giving me problems (quickly!) but up untill that point, the hotter the better.
Everything I read says it should be bad and destroy my plants but they just keep going and going for me. Had autos at over 600g that way.
Not growing in a tent anymore though so can't control my vpd and....well let's just say I'm not quite hitting what I used to lol. Had one problem after another. Think I'm about to lose what would've been about 25oz cos it hasn't developed propperly. Flipped start of january and still not started fattening up. Been too cold and too dry. I'm absolutely spewing. Gonna have to get a joiner round to construct some sort of room in my rediculously shaped attic so I can blast the heat up. Thats 2 in a row that have left me seriously kicking myself. It sure ain't easy growing without a tent

 

[Grand Daddy Black]

Not sure what NFT & ebb & flow actually are. I've heard the terms but never paid attention because it had to do with Hydro & not Soil. Guess I should have. I know DWC = Deep Water Culture & that's the 4 Bucket System I seen on Ebay for $140. Looks like something I could make myself for less than 1/2 the price.
I'll look up Auto-pots to see what they're all about. I want some kind of system that has a reservoir so I don't have to mess with the water too much.

You could make it for less than that.

 

[SmokeyMcFly]

Mate where have you been all my life?!! Over 3 years I've been foruming now and youre the only person that agrees with me that higher temps is better.
I even run my Res at 27*c most of the time. Always minimal 25*c for bloom. Tent temps (when I had one) were 29-31*c as much as I could help it.
33*c is where it started giving me problems (quickly!) but up untill that point, the hotter the better.
Everything I read says it should be bad and destroy my plants but they just keep going and going for me. Had autos at over 600g that way.
Not growing in a tent anymore though so can't control my vpd and....well let's just say I'm not quite hitting what I used to lol. Had one problem after another. Think I'm about to lose what would've been about 25oz cos it hasn't developed propperly. Flipped start of january and still not started fattening up. Been too cold and too dry. I'm absolutely spewing. Gonna have to get a joiner round to construct some sort of room in my rediculously shaped attic so I can blast the heat up. Thats 2 in a row that have left me seriously kicking myself. It sure ain't easy growing without a tent

You have to realize how small of a percentage of people are actually going to have better results with higher temps in a home grow and people usually report their experience not what is theoretically possible. Most people with home grows are not able to fully control their environment and adjust the settings to basically whatever they want them to be and have them constantly stay there. Out of the people that can they also have to be willing to learn what is needed along with the new temp for it to work right and able to supply it just like they had to figure out how to keep them happy with their old settings and at this point most are already growing great weed with more yields than they need so they don’t have a lot of need to make things more difficult on themselves to yeild a bit more.

Plus a lot of people even the ones growing great weed don’t fully understand what is going on when something does go wrong. So the temps go up the leaves get ugly so it must of been the higher temps that did it. In reality it was the needs of the plants new metabolism rate were no longer being met even they though they were just perfect 5 degrees ago for example.

If you want help for general growing or are looking to see what is working for someone this is a great place for answers. If you are looking for the extremes of what is possible you’re better off reading the science of how plants work. If I remember correctly mj is a class four plant which means it can breath co2 and expel oxygen regardless of the light cycle so if you’re having a hard time finding mj specific info since the studies on it have been limited look for info on that plant type. The way they breath is kinda rare and what defines their class type. They don’t flip to breathing only oxygen at night and co2 only during the day which makes sucking in a batch of fresh oxygenated air at lights out not necessary if you can control the humidity spike which is another falsity that I have read lots of places.

I had a chart that showed what the other settings should be for different temps and I can’t seem to find it right now if I do I’ll post it here it was pretty awesome. There was also a good controlled experiment someone did that grew a bunch of diff test batches with different lighting or temp differences don’t remember which anymore that had some great info.

IMO pushing temps to the higher limits to maximize yields is the last step of optimizing a grow setup is a step most home growers will not master or even need to master. You can’t have 5 degree temp swings to the higher side if you’re already running max safe temp for your pants for example once everything is maximized there’s no room left for error or fluctions. I am only on my first batch in my new room so I’m only running them 85 degrees with co2 and ~1500 umols at the tops and around 1200 at the canopy. So I can’t claim to have master it yet either but I know it’s possible based on the biology of how the plant works and the studies I have been able to find that yeild will increase with temps up to around 90f as long as everything else increases with it to stay in balance.

With the marketing of leds a lot of people would probably get more improvement to their yield by adding more lighting if they’re not having temp problems than they would by trying to max out temps. My biggest yielding plant ever was grown in a 2x4 with a double ended 1k watt hps and a plant that vegged for months no co2 no fancy controllers just tons of light nutes and roots. I purposely let me plants get a bit rootbound in veg and let them dry out between watering (they will grow roots searching for water instead of spending that energy growing up top) and dunk them when I do water so the roots get lots of fresh air and the promix actually absorbs the water. When they get up potted they have penned up energy and a massive root system to explode in flowering. Veg time should really about growing a root system more than the visible part of the plant but now I’m really getting off topic

 

[SmokeyMcFly]

Here is some good info and possibly has the answer to why my veg plants have been less than stellar since turning the co2 on after an hour or so both my tents are running around 1450 ppm co2 as the entire room gets saturated to that point.

Hopefully this isn’t breaking any rules to post.

An excerpt

CO2 fertilization allows cannabis to thrive at higher temperatures and utilize higher light intensities, but these two factors need to be considered together. Light comes with more heat, especially in HID illuminated environments. Both parameters shift the photosynthetic machinery into higher gear and CO2 enrichment allows it to run faster and cleaner. However, even with CO2, pushing too hard with light and/or temperature can send your plants into stressful conditions.

The general recommendation for maximizing CO2 fertilization in greenhouse crops is to raise the growth temperature by five to 10 degrees Fahrenheit above the ideal temperature in the absence of CO2 enrichment. For cannabis, this means that the ideal bloom temperature is shifted into the mid to high 80s. It is important to note that ambient grow temperature does not usually represent the temperature that the plant canopy is experiencing.

A room temperature in the low 80s will translate to canopy temperatures closer to the ideal for growth, with CO2 enhancement. Some strains may enjoy an even higher temperature, but I don't recommend running your space above 83°F, unless you know your strains will respond favorably and you have tight control of other environmental parameters. Be cautious when pushing the temperature envelope, the difference between ideal and harmful can be a few degrees.

Goodbye from Maximum Yield

In print and online, Maximum Yield is your source for cannabis and cultivation knowledge, with informative grow articles and tips to enhance your life with mmj.

www.maximumyield.com

 

[Buds Buddy]

Hey Smokey, I have to agree with you 100% on what you said in your closing about the roots. After 1.5 years of growing in soil & only getting 2.5 - 4.5 oz. per plant I came to the conclusion it's all about growing the roots & not the plant itself so much. I've done everything I can possibly think of to try to increase yield in soil but haven't had a lot of luck. Then it hit me .... this is about growing the roots as big as possible. Because of this I decided to change my whole tent. No more soil in 3 - 5 gal. pots. No more GH Nutes. I ordered a 4 - 5 gallon Auto-Pot system that I'll be using Coco & Perlite in. Switched all my nutes to Advanced Nutrients Coco Formula. Added a 6 gal. Humidifier & will soon be adding Co2 if all my temps & humidity are right once it's all set up & tested for a couple of days. Sure hope this increases yield as it's costing me about $500 - $600 to make these changes. The cost is mainly in the nutes. AN stuff is quite expensive compared to GH products. Sure hope the changes I'm making help.

 

[SmokeyMcFly]

Hey Smokey, I have to agree with you 100% on what you said in your closing about the roots. After 1.5 years of growing in soil & only getting 2.5 - 4.5 oz. per plant I came to the conclusion it's all about growing the roots & not the plant itself so much. I've done everything I can possibly think of to try to increase yield in soil but haven't had a lot of luck. Then it hit me .... this is about growing the roots as big as possible. Because of this I decided to change my whole tent. No more soil in 3 - 5 gal. pots. No more GH Nutes. I ordered a 4 - 5 gallon Auto-Pot system that I'll be using Coco & Perlite in. Switched all my nutes to Advanced Nutrients Coco Formula. Added a 6 gal. Humidifier & will soon be adding Co2 if all my temps & humidity are right once it's all set up & tested for a couple of days. Sure hope this increases yield as it's costing me about $500 - $600 to make these changes. The cost is mainly in the nutes. AN stuff is quite expensive compared to GH products. Sure hope the changes I'm making help.

Yup can’t have big buds if you don’t have a big root system to feed them from period end of story. It doesn’t matter what method you’re growing with this will always be true.

Sounds like I might be a little late but if you haven’t already spent to much of the money you should try Doc Buds high Brix kit instead of the advanced nutes. I started with advanced and switching to high Brix inproved the quality of my smoke more than I can even describe. It’s significantly cheaper and harder to fuck up than the petro based nute systems too. Also the plants are so healthy and full of calcium and other minerals that they get waxi almost fake looking like a plastic plant, this prevents most pests from being able to even affect them or survive and cloning is an absolute breeze

Anyway good luck with your new setup feel free to check out my build journal that has turned into a first run grow journal for the first batch in my new room. Please ignore the sad state of my plants that was due to needing to calibrate my new sensors and not realizing it for long enough to do some damage. Check out Neiko, Graytail, Duggan or Docbud’s threads to see how they should look