Outdoor Growers

[SmokingWings]

I got a leaf miner problem I sprayed them with neem a few days ago but it looks like they are still chewing. I ordered some SNS pest control but it won’t be here till Friday. I’m going to make +spray some homemade pepper spray in the A.M.

Leaf Miners live inside the leaf just under the surface. The eat the soft tissue there and do not eat that top or bottom area of the leaf. Neem is a contact insecticide so there is very little chance that the miners will be in contact with the stuff no matter how often often the plant is sprayed. The Bt is great for many leaf chewing insects and some leaf miners that will eat the top or bottom surface of the leaf. If the insecticide does not mention leaf miners there is a good chance it will not work.

 

[CelestialNurseries]

Neem is a contact insecticide

Neem oil insecticide works as a systemic in many plants when applied as a soil drench. This means it is absorbed by the plant and distributed throughout the tissue. Once the product is in the plant’s vascular system, insects intake it during feeding. The compound causes insects to reduce or cease feeding, can prevent larvae from maturing, reduces or interrupts mating behavior and, in some cases, the oil coats the breathing holes of insects and kills them.

Read more at Gardening Know How: Helping Your Plants With A Neem Oil Foliar Spray StackPath

 

[SmokingWings]

@ MadMike wrote:
Spraying plants into the flowering stage has always concerned me. Should I be concerned?

It used to be that the recommendation was to stop spraying Neem Oil about 2 weeks before harvest. Then over the past several years as people answered the same question you asked they would say "until 3 or 4 weeks before harvest" and then it became "only until the end of the first week of flower" and now the same people will not not after the week before flowering starts. Interesting thing is the same people sometimes mention that they have never used Neem Oil.

Currently I am using Neem until the 4th week and then wait a week and start with a preventative spray program involving using Nuke 'Em up until a couple of days before harvest.

MadMike, just mentioning that you included you question inside the msg you quoted instead of below it. Some people might not notice it but you do have some time, maybe a half hour to edit your msg and put the question in the line below the quote.

 

[SmokingWings]

Neem oil insecticide works as a systemic in many plants when applied as a soil drench. This means it is absorbed by the plant and distributed throughout the tissue. Once the product is in the plant’s vascular system, insects intake it during feeding. The compound causes insects to reduce or cease feeding, can prevent larvae from maturing, reduces or interrupts mating behavior and, in some cases, the oil coats the breathing holes of insects and kills them.

Read more at Gardening Know How: Helping Your Plants With A Neem Oil Foliar Spray StackPath

Yes.

Captain Lucky though was mentioning that the plants were infected with Leaf Miners and Neem was sprayed on them and was not working. In this case it was used as a contact spray insecticide similar to what many of us might do for Mites and not a systemic.

 

[cbdhemp808]

Spraying plants into the flowering stage has always concerned me. Should I be concerned?

First, I don't spray anything on developing buds except peroxide solution to control mold. Once buds are developing, it would be really hard to avoid spraying anything on them, so I basically don't spray anything other than peroxide solution at that point. Prior to buds developing, I personally am not concerned with neem being systemic in the plant, and possibly winding up in the buds. On a side note, my understanding is that a foliar spray of neem will also result in the neem being absorbed and becoming systemic, but I don't know to what extent. As such, bugs burrowing in leaves would be affected. I do not use neem as a soil drench.

 

[MadMike2]

First, I don't spray anything on developing buds except peroxide solution to control mold. Once buds are developing, it would be really hard to avoid spraying anything on them, so I basically don't spray anything other than peroxide solution at that point. Prior to buds developing, I personally am not concerned with neem being systemic in the plant, and possibly winding up in the buds. On a side note, my understanding is that a foliar spray of neem will also result in the neem being absorbed and becoming systemic, but I don't know to what extent. As such, bugs burrowing in leaves would be affected. I do not use neem as a soil drench.

Hey, cbd. What mixture do you use with that peroxide? I only dealt with mold once and had to amputate as a result. Lost some nice buds that season.

 

[MadMike2]

It used to be that the recommendation was to stop spraying Neem Oil about 2 weeks before harvest. Then over the past several years as people answered the same question you asked they would say "until 3 or 4 weeks before harvest" and then it became "only until the end of the first week of flower" and now the same people will not not after the week before flowering starts. Interesting thing is the same people sometimes mention that they have never used Neem Oil.

Currently I am using Neem until the 4th week and then wait a week and start with a preventative spray program involving using Nuke 'Em up until a couple of days before harvest.

MadMike, just mentioning that you included you question inside the msg you quoted instead of below it. Some people might not notice it but you do have some time, maybe a half hour to edit your msg and put the question in the line below the quote.

Thanks. Correction made. I looked up the Nuke 'em Up insecticide/fungicide. It looks better than other organic alternatives I've used.

 

[cbdhemp808]

Hey, cbd. What mixture do you use with that peroxide? I only dealt with mold once and had to amputate as a result. Lost some nice buds that season.

I use 6 fl oz of 3% drugstore peroxide in 1/2 gal of water, in the pump sprayer. 6 fl oz is 12 tbsp. You can maybe go a bit more than that. I recommend using very pure water. I used to use distilled water, but now I just use pure rainwater.

I just went through a difficult harvest of 2 kush and 1 maui wowie. The kush got hammered with bud rot, even though I was blasting the whole plants w/ this solution, buds and all... I lost 1/3 to 1/2 of the buds. I should have harvested it a bit earlier. The maui wowie only had a small amount of bud rot.

 

[MadMike2]

It is very disheartening when you get a harvest loss. I'm trying to be more attentive, but am conservative with nutrients. I have 1 GDP 10 days into flower in a 10 gal Geopot of Fox Ocean Forest. Ph is 7. I'm seeing blotched yellow fan leaves with yellow on the edges. I feed Dyna Grow bloom once a week, .25 to .5 tsp per gallon of water. Here are some pics:

 

[Sueet]

Don't be disheartened, just give her more food.

 

[Bill284]

It is very disheartening when you get a harvest loss. I'm trying to be more attentive, but am conservative with nutrients. I have 1 GDP 10 days into flower in a 10 gal Geopot of Fox Ocean Forest. Ph is 7. I'm seeing blotched yellow fan leaves with yellow on the edges. I feed Dyna Grow bloom once a week, .25 to .5 tsp per gallon of water. Here are some pics:

Feed her more.
I'm using @Remo Nutrients at the moment in the greenhouse.
Excellent results so far, Day 4ish of flower.

I'm so far north I'm using a little assistance from

@MedicGrow

EZ - 8 1000 w


​

Stay safe
Bill284

 

[cbdhemp808]

Don't be disheartened, just give her more food.

More N, yeah? Plants need more P & K in flower, but they still need some N until late flower, yeah?

 

[Phytoplankton]

For sure. It has been very humid 70-90 in my area, then dropping to low 50's-high 40s. Lots of fluctuation in weather. There are so many micro climates around NorCal Bay area, then you get the fog rolling in at night. I shy away from Sativas in my older age. Too intense for this guy's brain. I would like to give that Blue Dream a try one of these days though.

That’s the truth, I’m in the North Bay. Temp in town is 90, at my place, by the water 75. There is a fair amount of fog, but it tends to burn off by 9-10 am, and come back in after dark. (I agree about sativas, but I’m gonna grow a couple next run)

 

[MadMike2]

That’s the truth, I’m in the North Bay. Temp in town is 90, at my place, by the water 75. There is a fair amount of fog, but it tends to burn off by 9-10 am, and come back in after dark. (I agree about sativas, but I’m gonna grow a couple next run)

The same conditions where I am. We get some strong winds in the afternoon here. It's very humid in the morning due to fog (75-90%). Burns off to 50-60% late morning.

 

[SmokingWings]

... but am conservative with nutrients. I have 1 GDP 10 days into flower in a 10 gal Geopot of Fox Ocean Forest. Ph is 7. I'm seeing blotched yellow fan leaves with yellow on the edges. I feed Dyna Grow bloom once a week, .25 to .5 tsp per gallon of water.

Overall a nice looking and healthy plant.

Being a conservative can be great but it is time for some added fiscal responsibility. Pick up the pace on the fertilizing. Look at the added minor expense as an investment that will pay off in another 8 weeks or so.

A shortage of Nitrogen (N) can show as a yellow in the leaves slowly spreading till the entire leaf has changed color. A shortage of Potassium (K) will have the yellow but the veins in the leaf fingers often stay green for a longer time.

Bump up your "Dyna Grow Bloom" dosage to the .5 teaspoon amount. From what I have seen the instructions recommend using the Bloom every time the plant is watered. It is not the usual water-fertilize-water-fertilize method that we see for many other fertilizing schedules.

 

[SmokingWings]

I have 1 GDP 10 days into flower in a 10 gal Geopot of Fox Ocean Forest. Ph is 7.

Forgot to ask, the pH of what is 7? The water or water after the fertilizers have been mixed in? Or is it the pH of the soil?

 

[SmokingWings]

A shortage of Potassium (K) will have the yellow but the veins in the leaf fingers often stay green for a longer time.

A change. For the Potassium I think it is the other way around. The yellow starts with the veins and the area between veins takes longer to yellow.

 

[MadMike2]

Forgot to ask, the pH of what is 7? The water or water after the fertilizers have been mixed in? Or is it the pH of the soil?

That is the soil ph.

 

[MadMike2]

Overall a nice looking and healthy plant.

Being a conservative can be great but it is time for some added fiscal responsibility. Pick up the pace on the fertilizing. Look at the added minor expense as an investment that will pay off in another 8 weeks or so.

A shortage of Nitrogen (N) can show as a yellow in the leaves slowly spreading till the entire leaf has changed color. A shortage of Potassium (K) will have the yellow but the veins in the leaf fingers often stay green for a longer time.

Bump up your "Dyna Grow Bloom" dosage to the .5 teaspoon amount. From what I have seen the instructions recommend using the Bloom every time the plant is watered. It is not the usual water-fertilize-water-fertilize method that we see for many other fertilizing schedules.

I've been fortunate to never have nutrient lock out or burning of plants. I have always been careful about nutes, so a day or two after my usual once a week feeding, I saw large fan leaves turning blotched yellow with yellowing on leaf edges. I thought that was odd this early into flower, so I attributed it to nutrients.

 

[SmokingWings]

o a day or two after my usual once a week feeding, I saw large fan leaves turning blotched yellow with yellowing on leaf edges. I thought that was odd this early into flower, so I attributed it to nutrients.

Most likely it is a lack of nutrients. Larger the plant the more nutrients needed . Once it starts going into flower it needs even more. Back to "....Pick up the pace on the fertilizing. Look at the added minor expense as an investment that will pay off in another 8 weeks or so."

The plant will make it through to the end with the limited amount of fertilizer you are using but the harvest will be less than what the plant is able to produce and probably will not have the quality that it is able to produce. It is worth the expense invovled in doubling the amount of fertilizer you are using.

From my earlier msg: "Bump up your "Dyna Grow Bloom" dosage to the .5 teaspoon amount. From what I have seen the instructions recommend using the Bloom every time the plant is watered. It is not the usual water-fertilize-water-fertilize method that we see for many other fertilizing schedules."

The 1/2 teaspoon amount is good enough for the vegetating stage but now that the flowering has started it is time for more. And, the manufacturer says to use it every watering so if you water more than once a week but only fertilize once a week your plant is slowly falling behind.