The Hash Club

Exactly! My the stuff ''in'' my 90 bag is what went through the 185 bag and a 120 would make the stuff in the 90 bag nice to smoke.

I have 220 pyramid bag in the washing machine and then 220 - 185 - 90 - 70 - 38 bags and only smoke what's in the last two bags.

I'm thinking a system of 150 - 120 -90 - 70 - 25 would be better for my preferences and of course only smoke what went through the 150 bag, no need to have 3 different grades of crap hash that needs to be further extracted, and no need to have a seperator between 70 and 25, maybe even between 90 and 25.
Less bags to scrape wet hash out of makes it easier and faster ;)

I think the washing machine is great, I just set the timer and do some other tasks while it washes ;)

I think having more intermediate bags also effects overall yield, or at least yields of your finer grades. Because when you think about it, say all that material is going from the 220 into the 185 bag, and then into the 90. Well, as all the debris that got let through the 185 builds up into the 90 along with the trichomes, it's going to "clog" the mesh up faster, and impede some of your 70 and 38 sized trichomes going through. If instead there was a 150 between the 185 and 90, then less of that debris would make it through to the 90, allowing more of the 70 and 38 heads to pass unimpeded as well as making the 90 a more smokeable grade. That could also effect overall yield as well, because if more material is going into "smokeable" grades rather than being left behind in the non-smokeable grades, then you'll have a higher overall yield even though what you're really accomplishing is filtering more of the desired grades out of the coarser material. Pretty sure the only reason only 8 bags are common is because there's not a lot of intermediate stages you can get between 220 and 25 microns, and any more than that would be both impractical in terms of product filtering, and fitting them all into the same bucket. So with that in mind, your "debris bags" being the bags that catch unsmokeable stuff, could be the 90 and up bags on a 5 bag system, but 120 and up on an 8 bag system, by merit of the more efficient filtration.

Anyway, that's just my theory about it, and I think that the smaller-bag kits are probably offered as a preference thing for people who don't want to scrape up and dry 8 different grades, because I agree, that's kind of annoying. But I do think there is some advantage to more bags when really thinking about it. One thing I can't help relate it to is polishing metal... I use to be obsessed about putting mirror edges on a knife blade. One thing learned there is that you want to progress up through the grit ranges gradually, because each abrasive will leave scratches behind, and the larger the scratches the harder for a much finer stone to remove it to get that "mirror" effect. Likewise with this kind of filtration, with less bags, you're asking each bag to do more work.

From what I've seen with the 8 bag kit, there's verrrry little that actually gets caught up in the 190 and 160 debris bags. The 220, 190 and 160 filtration set is what i would then call the "debris bags" as the 120 begins the actual "bubble bags" where smokeable grade begins. Of course this could all vary with the quality of input product as well, so with some strains your "debris bags" and "bubble bags" might be separated by a different range, but I think you can still imagine it as a two step process. Your "debris bags" do the actual "filtering" and all that's caught in them is non-desirable plant material, and your "bubble bags" just do further sifting. If one really did want to streamline how many bags they had to scrape up out of, but didn't want to sacrifice quality or yield, then adding more "debris bags" (coarse grades) would be best in my opinion, and then your finer grades can be treated as preference for what level of separation you want.

So for example on my setup, I could probably ( and I am really speaking with absolutely no authority here, so take it with a grain of salt ) but I could probably keep just my 220-190-160-120-90 bags, and then skip my 73 and 43 but only put a 25 bag at the end of that, and I would effectively get the same yield I would have, but would not be sifting it all into separate grades and so would only have to scrape up off two different bags (the 90 and the 25). Personally, having seen the results in a 120x, I don't think most of the grades really merit that much separation, but again this could all vary by the input product.

Sorry starting blabbing and couldn't stop. Tl;dr... Take your last smokeable grade, and consider everything higher as "debris bags", and add more intermediate grades in these "debris bag" ranges to increase the yield of finer, smokeable grades.
 
I use anything above 120m for edibles, just melt into butter and filter debris out. Just be careful with ratio, comes out pretty strong! Not smoke grade but man, it's get you lit.....
 
I use anything above 120m for edibles, just melt into butter and filter debris out. Just be careful with ratio, comes out pretty strong! Not smoke grade but man, it's get you lit.....

I literally got such a little amount of material in those bags, like clumps not much bigger than pencil erasers. Is that still enough to use for edibles because it just seemed like it was plant matter to me.
 
I literally got such a little amount of material in those bags, like clumps not much bigger than pencil erasers. Is that still enough to use for edibles because it just seemed like it was plant matter to me.
Top left was 160m bag, dry diesel, 112g final yeild 18g don't remember exact weight, but as you can see not far off from lower m bags.
4469408da3b5e886cc1a1324960ab84d.jpg
 
Grinded up some preharvested stuff. Think the conclusion is to not grind the matter as it all got full of plant materials. The best run was with sugar leaves and without grinding them up first
 
@ Fertilizer, I agree that more filters makes a better filtration as a stadard rule with any kind of filtration, but only small amounts go through the bags and the risk of them being clogged up is around 2 I guess :)

More experimentation ahead :passitleft:

Next run I'm gonna do a run with some potent trim and maybe some flowers and measure input and output,

And order 2 more bags ;)




Grinded up some preharvested stuff. Think the conclusion is to not grind the matter as it all got full of plant materials. The best run was with sugar leaves and without grinding them up first

Don't grind or cut trim any more than it already is, that'll get more chlorophyll in the mix and make it taste like wet hay ;)

Don't know about flowers but the same base principle applies, maybe crush the frozen flowers a bit so they're more likely to separate where they naturally split :hmmmm:
 
heya agin,, cheers to hash,, indeed

i have never invested in a proper set of hash bags,, i grow a few small plants and do not accumulate much trimmings to work with,,

but that does not mean i can not enjoy my own home made hash,, there are other ways to make it

i am providing a link to the method i use to turn my measeley trimmings into fine hash, fine enough for me anyhoo

this method provided by great 420 member 'weaselcracker' and passed on by me, gladly.

i use this method quite often, with a few modifications,

The Hexapus's Garden - Simple Ice Hash

P1160720.JPG


not just i dig this hash, for sure,,
 
Love it! Very old school


I was just sitting here wondering if I should invest in some screens to try the dry sifting method. That's the oldest method I can think of right now. Wonder how you end up yield wise with dry sifting vs bubble?

heya agin,, cheers to hash,, indeed

i have never invested in a proper set of hash bags,, i grow a few small plants and do not accumulate much trimmings to work with,,

but that does not mean i can not enjoy my own home made hash,, there are other ways to make it

i am providing a link to the method i use to turn my measeley trimmings into fine hash, fine enough for me anyhoo

this method provided by great 420 member 'weaselcracker' and passed on by me, gladly.

i use this method quite often, with a few modifications,

The Hexapus's Garden - Simple Ice Hash

P1160720.JPG


not just i dig this hash, for sure,,
 
Love it! Very old school


I was just sitting here wondering if I should invest in some screens to try the dry sifting method. That's the oldest method I can think of right now. Wonder how you end up yield wise with dry sifting vs bubble?

The oldest, and in my mind truest, method is rubbing the live flowers with your hands ;)

I think it's about the same because when bubbling you get the crap grades that are only good for making oils/edibles, and with drysift some trichs stay on the materiel which then has to be used for oils/edibles.

If you want to make easy drysift get 2 stackable buckets with one tight lid, cut the bottom of one bucket out and secure a 100-125ish micron screen as the new bottom. Put this bucket into to the intact bucket fill with frozen material, put the lid on and shake it for 30 seconds - 2 minutes, maybe shake more than once to make different grades ;)

Plastic buckets from foods are ideal, but cleaned paint buckets works just as well.
 
This post is a duplicate from my grow-journal. I did some thinking you see and I may have an idea

Notice most hash making machines, either they're washing machines or based on the centrifugal principle, they cost a little fortune. Actually so much you could just as well buy real lab gear. When I was working in the lab, we had this sieving machine we used to separate different sizes of sand. I worked with natural sciences and tested a lot of sand and rocks during my life. The trays on these machines had mesh screens and the 3 finest ones would have been perfect for making hash. That machine could easily have processed 400-500 grams of dry material simultaniously.

So I did a little googling and I found that some people out there are selling the trays for my lab machine with the right micron sizes as a "set"

Check it out - they're calling them "Aluminum Herbal Pollen Set of 3 Screen Size stackable sifter 66, 96, 120 Micron Hash Extractor sifter Shaker (66, 96, 120)"


71wH51bbnjL._SL1500_.jpg


Those sizes are well and all, but it would be cool to customize them a little more. You see - the machine in my former labaratory looked like this:
sieve-shaker-machine-309.jpg


A very expensive piece of equipment even if all it has is an on/off button and a timer. I used to set it on half an hour. By that time the machine would have separated everything there was to separate extremely well. This particular machine is far over my budget, but when I see a so called hash washing machine or a hash extraction centrifuge cost 500-600 US dollars, and they look very cheap, made from plastic or very DIY'ish things made of wood. Then I question myself - How cheap can the Chinese make a real lab vibrating sieve machine?

The answer was - "220V sieve diameter 20cm Screen Electric Vibrating Sieve Machine, Electric sieve shaker with timing function, Screening machine" for as little as US $135.00 / piece on AliExpress. You have to add around 250 USD in transportation costs as well, but still cheaper than a centrifugal wood hash extractor with only 220 microns as an option. It is also cheaper than the name-branded washing machines. Not as cheap as the Amazon knockoffs though, but seriously - you can get real lab equipment from China, you can get your custom trays with your own custom micron sizes. This machine is made for 20cm diameter trays, you can process a lot of material in those. Also exists in a 30cm version I saw. I think I will put one of these machines on my wishlist for when the production gets too big for me to hand wash. What do you think? I think this will probably work better than the machines they sell for dedicated hash-making. These machines are sturdy as fuck and will produce you kg after kg - until you are dead, then your kids can continue to make hash for generations to come with this machine
:)

HTB1VGKUXdqUQKJjSZFIq6AOkFXaQ.jpg


Kinda looks like I imagine the 70's version of the machine in my former lab would have looked years before I started working there
:)
But I don't care if it is 70's tech from China. These things really work well
 
Absolutely no reason why it wouldn't work but with a $500 price tag (all in), you would need a fairly large production to justify it. Remember that it is 220v & 50Hz & since it is a motor the speed would be slightly faster at our 60 Hz. A 60 Hz multi-voltage electric razor in a 50 Hz country tends to pull as well as chop at it slows down.

Ian
 
Absolutely no reason why it wouldn't work but with a $500 price tag (all in), you would need a fairly large production to justify it. Remember that it is 220v & 50Hz & since it is a motor the speed would be slightly faster at our 60 Hz. A 60 Hz multi-voltage electric razor in a 50 Hz country tends to pull as well as chop at it slows down.

Ian
Eeekk!
 
Absolutely no reason why it wouldn't work but with a $500 price tag (all in), you would need a fairly large production to justify it. Remember that it is 220v & 50Hz & since it is a motor the speed would be slightly faster at our 60 Hz. A 60 Hz multi-voltage electric razor in a 50 Hz country tends to pull as well as chop at it slows down.

Ian
Man here I was thinking my whole life that all stoners had facial hair. Of some sort. ...
 
-i'm in europé, so the voltage is right for me.
 
Man here I was thinking my whole life that all stoners had facial hair. Of some sort. ...
Sorry to break the myth.....i look idiotic with facial hair. Worst than my 18 yr old trying to grow his out lmao...
 
Man here I was thinking my whole life that all stoners had facial hair. Of some sort. ...

Not I. I like to travel incognito under the radar. :cool:

Ian
 
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