Indeed, that's why i asked if they sell it inside EU as there's not point in paying an a 100-150$ more just for the taxes! Anyway i'm interested in the product and i'll be following this thread. LED is the way to go!
126W Penetrator LED Full Bloom
- Thread starter HydroGrowLED
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Indeed, that's why i asked if they sell it inside EU as there's not point in paying an a 100-150$ more just for the taxes! Anyway i'm interested in the product and i'll be following this thread. LED is the way to go!
WarBux79
Well-Known Member
Hi, I don't want to tell you what to do with your lighting but I will tell you the experience I am having with 2 90w UFO's (I even ordered them from 2 different vendors to hit the correct spectral outputs) I ended up having to add some T5 HO's to get anything even close to what these Penetrators are doing. I am in the process of getting a refund and will instead buy some of these LEDs
MeanBean
New Member
It will be perfect!
Ya I bought a 120 watter elsewhere, it did work but not like the pics in here. I'm donating it to the veg area. Still waiting for my New 126 wat Penatrator in da mail...
Im using this for a 2 plant setup, DWC.
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- #184
HydroGrowLED
New Member
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- #185
HydroGrowLED
New Member
Actually, the Chinese tend to help all the foreigners out on that one. To prevent a hold up in customs, and any extra cost to the consumer, they state the value of the goods shipped as being very low. So if you do have import duty, or VAT, it will be an incredibly small price to pay.
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- #186
HydroGrowLED
New Member
By the way guys, I wanted to point something out here that I haven't mentioned before:
During the "Daylight" hours for these test plants in bloom, the room has remained a constant 90-95 degrees without CO2. At it's lowest point (if I leave the door wide open) it drops to 80 degrees. At night time, the plants are 80-85 degrees. These plants are in a small section of a larger room, where there are a few HID lights over veg, some cactii, etc...
I want you guys to understand that the ambient room temp wasn't what killed your plants before with HID. It was the fact that you would hang a 450-650 degree light source, within 12" of your plants, that carried TONS of heat with it towards your plants. Your plants could no longer withstand this heat stress from the multi-hundred degree HID, when the ambient temp in your room rose above 85-90 degrees. Since LED's don't carry heat with them, the light source itself causes no heat stress to the plants, as it did with HID. The plants don't have to constantly battle a multi-hundred degree light source staring them in the face, so they function perfectly fine at 95 degrees. Anyhow, thought you guys might enjoy that tidbit.
Here are some update pictures from today (10-14):
During the "Daylight" hours for these test plants in bloom, the room has remained a constant 90-95 degrees without CO2. At it's lowest point (if I leave the door wide open) it drops to 80 degrees. At night time, the plants are 80-85 degrees. These plants are in a small section of a larger room, where there are a few HID lights over veg, some cactii, etc...
I want you guys to understand that the ambient room temp wasn't what killed your plants before with HID. It was the fact that you would hang a 450-650 degree light source, within 12" of your plants, that carried TONS of heat with it towards your plants. Your plants could no longer withstand this heat stress from the multi-hundred degree HID, when the ambient temp in your room rose above 85-90 degrees. Since LED's don't carry heat with them, the light source itself causes no heat stress to the plants, as it did with HID. The plants don't have to constantly battle a multi-hundred degree light source staring them in the face, so they function perfectly fine at 95 degrees. Anyhow, thought you guys might enjoy that tidbit.
Here are some update pictures from today (10-14):
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- #188
HydroGrowLED
New Member
They've started dong a lot better since I switched to the Advanced Nutrients. The 1 ice is really taking off, while the other ones seem a day or 2 away from going vertical.
Cannabology
New Member
Hello Cammie
Been following along and this seems more comprehensive than the others selling mere claims. I am curious though...I had done a specific dutch strain that was yielding 2 pounds per 1k watt hortilux (minimum). Each thousand watt was on a 4x4 table with a 5x5 canopy.
The 318 watt model of yours is recommended for a canopy of only 2x4 according to your site yet you compare this unit to a 1000 watt hps.....How is this the case when I am effectively able to utilize a 5x5 canopy with a single 1000 watt?
Since you haven't really mentioned the bigger 318 light is it more likely that 3, 126 watt units would be a more efficient means of production?
What is your thought on the most effective way of utilizing 5x5 (4.5 x 5 minimum)?
Note: I bud @ about a foot tall and this strain finishes from there to about 3.5 ft. max .....Would you recommend sticking to the 60 degree output?
Finally. When do you expect the next lighting designs to be ready for sale? Thank you, Canna
Been following along and this seems more comprehensive than the others selling mere claims. I am curious though...I had done a specific dutch strain that was yielding 2 pounds per 1k watt hortilux (minimum). Each thousand watt was on a 4x4 table with a 5x5 canopy.
The 318 watt model of yours is recommended for a canopy of only 2x4 according to your site yet you compare this unit to a 1000 watt hps.....How is this the case when I am effectively able to utilize a 5x5 canopy with a single 1000 watt?
Since you haven't really mentioned the bigger 318 light is it more likely that 3, 126 watt units would be a more efficient means of production?
What is your thought on the most effective way of utilizing 5x5 (4.5 x 5 minimum)?
Note: I bud @ about a foot tall and this strain finishes from there to about 3.5 ft. max .....Would you recommend sticking to the 60 degree output?
Finally. When do you expect the next lighting designs to be ready for sale? Thank you, Canna
yea AN is made especially for cannabis.. my friend uses the connesieur line, explosive nutes to say the least.
what were u using before? gh?
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- #192
HydroGrowLED
New Member
Hello Cammie
Been following along and this seems more comprehensive than the others selling mere claims. I am curious though...I had done a specific dutch strain that was yielding 2 pounds per 1k watt hortilux (minimum). Each thousand watt was on a 4x4 table with a 5x5 canopy.
The 318 watt model of yours is recommended for a canopy of only 2x4 according to your site yet you compare this unit to a 1000 watt hps.....How is this the case when I am effectively able to utilize a 5x5 canopy with a single 1000 watt?
Since you haven't really mentioned the bigger 318 light is it more likely that 3, 126 watt units would be a more efficient means of production?
What is your thought on the most effective way of utilizing 5x5 (4.5 x 5 minimum)?
Note: I bud @ about a foot tall and this strain finishes from there to about 3.5 ft. max .....Would you recommend sticking to the 60 degree output?
Finally. When do you expect the next lighting designs to be ready for sale? Thank you, Canna
You have pointed out one of the unfortunate parts behind LED, and that is that even though you can achieve the same results as what you're used to under a HID, the units do not create the same footprint. LED is a completely new lighting technology, and it will take a while before people start to view it as separate from HID in it's functionality. So the 318W covers a 4' x 2' area, but the bud you grow in that area, and the yield, is comparable to what you could achieve under a single 1000W light.
As you also pointed out, the most economical way to achieve larger coverage areas, with less LED wattage, is by using multiple 126W units. I designed them this way so that people who want more watts/square foot can use the 318W, and those looking for an economical way to achieve comparable results in a larger area can use the 126W. To cover a 5 x 5 space with 126W, you would need at least 6 of them.
As far as your plant size, the 60 degree unit would be the best fit. Our next design is in its infancy right now. I'm awaiting word on when the new model can ship, so that I can begin in depth testing. I may even feature the grow on the forum, I just won't talk about the specs.
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- #193
HydroGrowLED
New Member
My intention is to create stretching in order to achieve nice long colas. The plants have remained too short for their normal flowering cycle compared to what they normally do. Once they begin packing on bud sites, I will move the light closer to increase production
My intention is to create stretching in order to achieve nice long colas. The plants have remained too short for their normal flowering cycle compared to what they normally do. Once they begin packing on bud sites, then I will move the light closer to increase production
so im infering that you're sayin that under your lights during flower the plants will not stretch as much as under an hps?
first, most people try to put thermometers in the canopy, so the temperature read is consistent with the temp seen by the plants. . . to put a thermometer outside the plant area would prob be useless.
also
"Since LED's don't carry heat with them, the light source itself causes no heat stress to the plants, as it did with HID."
huh? first they obviously create heat, you have fans on them, lol, and second, light is energy and so is heat, so if you shine light on something it will heat up. its called thermodynamics.
How does that electronic energy get converted to heat, you ask? The key is 'radiationless transitions.' Here's how it works: the atoms of an object are perpetually vibrating. Some of those atoms vibrate sufficiently vigorously that their vibrational energy is roughly equal to the electronic energy (photons) absorbed from the light--in essence, they are in resonance with the light energy. Those atoms then make a quantum transition from 'electronically excited' to 'vibrationally excited,' meaning that the energy causes the whole atom to move. We feel that motion as "heat." The atoms which make the jump to vibrational excitation soon collide into neighboring atoms, dissipating their vibrational energy throughout the entire object, making the object hot throughout.
they prob don't get nearly as hot as an hid though, so i agree that if you put an hid as close as you can put an LED, you will prob burn it. so thats the point you were trying to make i guess.
cheers, sorry to correct that bit. plants are looking good girl,
keep up the good work.
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- #196
HydroGrowLED
New Member
They were stunted due to nutrients, and therefore did not grow vertically during the first two weeks of bloom. I want to stretch them out to be at least 2' tall, like they are normally in my other garden with 1512W LED. LED's do not create as much stretch as HID, but you can achieve stretch easily by adjusting the light height.
Flurple
Nug of the Month 3rd Place Winner (Nov 09')
glad to hear the Advanced Nutrients are taking care of the prob... AN is what i use but it definitely takes someone with a head on their shoulders to feed them correctly...
also im amazed at the grow room temps... when mine go above 85F+ the pistols start to burn and curl. infrared heat is a big problem...
if i am correct you are saying more light is provided with less infrared, so the lights can be closer with no negative effect???
also im amazed at the grow room temps... when mine go above 85F+ the pistols start to burn and curl. infrared heat is a big problem...
if i am correct you are saying more light is provided with less infrared, so the lights can be closer with no negative effect???
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- #198
HydroGrowLED
New Member
I have a digital thermometer with both internal and external temperature sensors. The external sensor is down next to the plants and reads between 90-95 degrees (I like it hot).
"Since LED's don't carry heat with them, the light source itself causes no heat stress to the plants, as it did with HID."
huh? first they obviously create heat, you have fans on them, lol, and second, light is energy and so is heat, so if you shine light on something it will heat up. its called thermodynamics.
The fans are on the backs of the units. They take heat from the heatsink (which is attached to the back of the LED power board) and expel it from the unit. The current passing through the diodes at the chip creates heat which is transferred from the back of the LED (not the lens) to the power board, then heatsink, and out through the fans. The 660nm LED itself is not a raging hot 450 degree light source with tons of IR that it carries with it. Neither is the 440nm or any other color. Even if you place your hand directly under the IR LED's we use, you feel barely any heat at all. So LED's cause no heat stress from the light itself. HID however, does.
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- #199
HydroGrowLED
New Member
The only LED's in our light that create IR heat, are the IR LED's. No other LED crosses into the infra-red spectrum. The IR's we use are only 1W each, and there are not many of them on the board. They create very little heat, allowing them to be placed very close to your plants without causing stress.
If you're growing with HID and you go over 85, situations like what you discussed above can easily happen. The plants have to constantly perspire because of the intense HID light, while also dealing with ambient temps. Temperature does affect a plant's metabolic rate, and at higher temperatures (without stress of course) plants tend to grow faster. This is why I keep my room at 95 degrees. The plants love it, and I get the most out of them without causing them stress
flurple hit it mostly on the head, and you just eluded to it, in fact IR is the part of sunlight, and HID that are most responsible for the heat since those wavelengths more readily interact with the harmonics of mass. since you mostly leave that out of your focused spectrum, your lights don't needlessly heat the objects with all that IR, however the wavelengths that your light puts out heat a plant just as much as those same wavelengths from any other source, given similar intensity.
glass block most IR, I run a cool tube, and the ventilation (my vort fan) carries away most of the heat. . . my plants can lay directly on the cool tube, less than an inch from a 600w hps and not burn. i still wouldn't run at 90* if i could help it, esp without extra co2. also i don't want to get that close cause 90,000 lumens will bleach the color right out of your buds.
the leds are still emitting light. light=energy=motion=heat. they emit heat. just focused, so you can use the best energy and toss the rest. so they heat less. i won't say anymore. lol. just trying to keep things clear. I know a great deal about these matters.
glass block most IR, I run a cool tube, and the ventilation (my vort fan) carries away most of the heat. . . my plants can lay directly on the cool tube, less than an inch from a 600w hps and not burn. i still wouldn't run at 90* if i could help it, esp without extra co2. also i don't want to get that close cause 90,000 lumens will bleach the color right out of your buds.
the leds are still emitting light. light=energy=motion=heat. they emit heat. just focused, so you can use the best energy and toss the rest. so they heat less. i won't say anymore. lol. just trying to keep things clear. I know a great deal about these matters.
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