Hi all. I'm new here and this was my first time running both dwc or floraflex. Usually a organic soil guy. I had two plants running both started to hit a wall in growth at week 5-6 during bloom. And yellowing leafs. One plant even looked a bit burned. I reduced the feed due to this, even ran them in nothing but water and drip to flush them for 24 hrs bit nothing appeared to change. Both plants were looking amazing until then. One plant was a longer cycle plant so it was 2 weeks ahead on purpose. I didn't think the second plant was going to have issues but sure did on week 5. Ph runs 5.85-6.15 but usually maintained under 6. Temps both air and water are good, no algae etc. It would appear it's nute lockout. I noticed the recommended notes were showing a higher ec than they should and reduced them but I think it was too late. I'm really confused on flushing. I figured that would work but I saw no change. I did use drip to flush in the water but nothing else. This is my first dwc or synthetic grow so I'm sure it's me but have seen many posts on other sites about nute lockout during this time. Any help would be appreciated.
Dwc floraflex issues week 5-6
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Welcome to 420Magazine my friend
I'm not a DWC grower unfortunately, no experience with those nutrients.
Maby @NickHardy or @bluter
might be able to help.If you want to say Hi and meet everyone here is a link.
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Bill284
would need pics for sure. on a flat guess it sounds like you hit the wall for a pk ask and the plant may be exhibiting a deficiency not a lockout.
impossible to tell at all without pics.
Thanks Bill, fun one to think about.
if I had to guess (I’m a hydro/coco person rather than DWC) without a photo, check your Ph is solid 5.8 or so and up the cal mag. Some of that comes from knowing you’re coming in from a soil background.
if I had to guess (I’m a hydro/coco person rather than DWC) without a photo, check your Ph is solid 5.8 or so and up the cal mag. Some of that comes from knowing you’re coming in from a soil background.
Agree totally.
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Thanks. I attached a photo. Ph runs 5.85-6.15 max. Has mostly stayed under 6 with a short variation a couple times. I included a photo.. after reading here it may be the cal mag. I did add a little during veg but stopped during bud. Wondering if that's it
SIP Club - Getting Hydro/Coco Results In A Soil Based Medium
If I use plastic I'd possibly have to extend it to go over the pot rim This is a neccesity not only for rain/leech issue, a weird effect happens that the edge of the soil where it meets the vertical pot wall starts to dry and separate because due to plastic just laying on top its the only part...
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Check out the excellent lead health guide here! Found by Res Dog and posted by Azi! High lraise indeed!
K / and what are the light's at maybe?
it does look ph related. i don't really see what i would expect on a pk ask.
there's a possible potassium deficiency, but i think the ph needs in check.
there's a possible potassium deficiency, but i think the ph needs in check.
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Weird bc my ph is and has been very consistent and I have a good tester that I calibrate often and it's on point .. hmm
dwc is pretty much stuck to 5.8. you could be missing potassium but it think it's getting missed in the ph.
this might be able to help narrow it
this might be able to help narrow it
I have a Blue Lab which is great but get a second one too! In hydro style (there are many!) Ph and EC are my two most important measures. Aiming 5.8 and 1.6-2.0 depending on your lights.
If I woke up to that I’d raise raise the lights a bit and lightly flush say 50% the volume the pot with a mix of 1.5ml/litre cal mag Ph’s to 5.6 - 5.8. Back it off and see where you’re at!
If I woke up to that I’d raise raise the lights a bit and lightly flush say 50% the volume the pot with a mix of 1.5ml/litre cal mag Ph’s to 5.6 - 5.8. Back it off and see where you’re at!
Bluter’s the man here!
Wastei
Well-Known Member
Most issues in DWC are pH or root rot related. How does the roots look and do you do any root rot preventatives like oxidizers, water chiller and bacteria cultures? Strains of only bacillus amyloliquefaciens is what you should use going the bacteria route.
Root health and how they looks is more important than foliage in any style of growing but especially DWC where you have no buffers and you have to act guard between the root stomata and the outer world. Without all the enzymes, acids and bacteria cultures buffering pH and protecting the roots you have to make a plan on how to replace this synthetically. How to keep removing biofilm and keeping the root zone clean and pH stable is the most important parameters to optimize in water cultures.
Mg and K def. pH is probably low. Do you calibrate your pH pen religiously and weekly? It's a good idea to raise pH slightly in veg and lower it slightly in flower. pH 6.5-5.5 is optimal to set depending on plant response and pH drift.
What's your ppm / EC? I see some early burnt pistils and she looks overall overferted. If you go by recommendations on the bottles/buckets you might run hot in DWC. I never had to go over 800ppm / 1.6 EC in full flower and that's usually on the low to mid scale of recommendations. 0.8-1.2 EC is typically more than enough in DWC. Lower feed is desirable in water cultures since the bad bacteria cultures also feeds on the available minerals. If they're lower in concentration they have less food to eat and the roots stays cleaner as a result.
Root health and how they looks is more important than foliage in any style of growing but especially DWC where you have no buffers and you have to act guard between the root stomata and the outer world. Without all the enzymes, acids and bacteria cultures buffering pH and protecting the roots you have to make a plan on how to replace this synthetically. How to keep removing biofilm and keeping the root zone clean and pH stable is the most important parameters to optimize in water cultures.
Mg and K def. pH is probably low. Do you calibrate your pH pen religiously and weekly? It's a good idea to raise pH slightly in veg and lower it slightly in flower. pH 6.5-5.5 is optimal to set depending on plant response and pH drift.
What's your ppm / EC? I see some early burnt pistils and she looks overall overferted. If you go by recommendations on the bottles/buckets you might run hot in DWC. I never had to go over 800ppm / 1.6 EC in full flower and that's usually on the low to mid scale of recommendations. 0.8-1.2 EC is typically more than enough in DWC. Lower feed is desirable in water cultures since the bad bacteria cultures also feeds on the available minerals. If they're lower in concentration they have less food to eat and the roots stays cleaner as a result.
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Thank you. This is very helpfuldwc is pretty much stuck to 5.8. you could be missing potassium but it think it's getting missed in the ph.
this might be able to help narrow it
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Yes very helpful. I have apera pen and calibrate with the solution religiously. It's been a great and very steady pen so far. I think recommend was running a bit hot so I was backing down the EC. That's why I thought maybe it caused lockout being too hot. The roots look healthy and have stayed that way. It do clean the buckets with hydrogen peroxide during changes. I read that was good but maybe that's causing an issue I'm not aware of. I really like the dwc but I hate I got this far and neither plant got to full maturity when they were doing amazing to start
Wastei
Well-Known Member
You're probably on the right track with dialing everything down. DWC is tricky to get right the first couple of times. The info available is very mixed in quality. Hydrogen peroxide has very short residual effect and if you don't add it every day to every other day you may still experience problems.
I've used bleach instead of H2O2 for all these years because I was thought and shown the superior properties of hyporchlorites compared to peroxides. Sodium hypochlorite(regular bleach) has longer residual effect and work as a weaker and longer acting oxidizer. You add every 3-4th day instead of every day. You can also make your own stock solution from pool shock(calcium hypochlorite granules).
3-5ppm is recommended to use in DWC. You'll find the dilution calculator in my signature.
Chlorine dilution calculator
i agree with @Wastei
running h2o2, mild bleach, or a chiller would really help smooth it out and keep you in control. in decent conditions you can slide by without, but it's a pretty narrow range, and most growers need a little help. i used to run h2o2 constant.
running h2o2, mild bleach, or a chiller would really help smooth it out and keep you in control. in decent conditions you can slide by without, but it's a pretty narrow range, and most growers need a little help. i used to run h2o2 constant.
I’ll bet its tricky and reckon “dialling it in” is hyper local in terms of environment/strains?
Thanks! - I’m probably trying an aero grow for the Canuk thing and you just gave me the idea to use a mild H2o2 treated water as the base (if its not going to mess with the nute interaction at point of mixing) - our swimming pool is cleaned by it - no salts/chlorine. Just an “Ozone” pool so I have a very ready supply of it!
