- Thread starter
- #21
TONYBLUNTZ420
New Member
I appreciate everyone's advice and patience with me... answering all my questions ... thank you guys again
First time grower second try first might be dying
- Thread starter TONYBLUNTZ420
- Start date
Faic
New Member
80-85? Wow that seems hot, but then again I'm completely paranoid about powdery mildew since my basement is chock full of spores from several floodings over the years. I'll keep that in mind this winter, since my temps are going to be higher than last year I think. Now I won't be trying to find a small AC unit middle of winter.
Faic
New Member
Great that you got that temp monitor. I got one and it rocks. You've already got daylight bulbs going now so just add the additional bulbs when you're ready to get growing faster. You'll need to pick up some 2700k bulbs for flowering, and to add one or two of those to your full light setup when you're going full speed. Next time you're at orangebox you should look at the brown single sockets with the hanging wire clip. I didn't see them when I tried to find them on the site, but those just clamp onto any 2wire cord (of proper thickness) and makes putting a custom light together a breeze.
Have you thought about what nutrient line you're going to go with?
- Thread starter
- #24
TONYBLUNTZ420
New Member
I've did some study .. i think at least... FF..I see everyone use that brand again I'm new so I don't know when I should and how much or what is a better brand
- Thread starter
- #25
TONYBLUNTZ420
New Member
I just put in those 100 wX2 .. and a a smaller cfl light
- Thread starter
- #26
TONYBLUNTZ420
New Member
so 3 total ... let me know if I am doing to much
- Thread starter
- #27
TONYBLUNTZ420
New Member
so 3 total ... let me know if I am doing to much
... what are the temp and humidity supposed to be ..
- Thread starter
- #28
TONYBLUNTZ420
New Member
Ohhh the exhaust fan is off during lights are off.. should I leave it on during off hour
For me, it depends on the temperature and RH. I'd leave it on, if possible. Your RH in the picture above is a little high. I prefer something closer to 50% during veg.
Faic
New Member
Yeah I leave my fan on 24/7 also. Temps and humidity I still don't have a personal preference per se, but I do like anything below 75f so I don't risk new mold problems. Humidity in veg, I never thought about... during flower, not really either but for dry/cure, 60-65 is what I'm shooting for, and have in my room.
Major, why 50's for humidity in veg? Is there something more than preference behind that number?
As far as fox farms go, yes it seems really popular, but I went with General Hydroponics for a couple reasons. I had no experience with weed nutes, but the GH can be used in soil or hydro (I have both going at the moment), only has three bottles, several other brands have up to a dozen bottles of nutes and additives which was daunting and very expensive, and I really wanted to keep things good but simple. I figured if I can get a grow finished with basic nutes, I can always try boosters later when I'm more comfortable. So depending on who you ask, you'll get plenty of answers, and I can't say the GH nutes are better than others. I can only say that they're simple, affordable, and for me and how I mucked up my first grow, saved my ass
But whatever line you decide on, I would strongly suggest having a look at hydroguard and silica blast. Even in soil. Gh and those two additives pulled my plants from the brink of disaster.
Again, the number of lights you add and when, will speed up the growth of your plant. You'll have to be the judge of can you keep up with the curve. If you feel good, I say add the rest of the lights and go go! If you feel a bit unsure, stick with the three lights and a bit more reading, then add the last three.
And sometimes you just have to grit your eyes, push trepidation into the gutter and plunge ahead for good fortune.
Major, why 50's for humidity in veg? Is there something more than preference behind that number?
As far as fox farms go, yes it seems really popular, but I went with General Hydroponics for a couple reasons. I had no experience with weed nutes, but the GH can be used in soil or hydro (I have both going at the moment), only has three bottles, several other brands have up to a dozen bottles of nutes and additives which was daunting and very expensive, and I really wanted to keep things good but simple. I figured if I can get a grow finished with basic nutes, I can always try boosters later when I'm more comfortable. So depending on who you ask, you'll get plenty of answers, and I can't say the GH nutes are better than others. I can only say that they're simple, affordable, and for me and how I mucked up my first grow, saved my ass
But whatever line you decide on, I would strongly suggest having a look at hydroguard and silica blast. Even in soil. Gh and those two additives pulled my plants from the brink of disaster.
Again, the number of lights you add and when, will speed up the growth of your plant. You'll have to be the judge of can you keep up with the curve. If you feel good, I say add the rest of the lights and go go! If you feel a bit unsure, stick with the three lights and a bit more reading, then add the last three.
And sometimes you just have to grit your eyes, push trepidation into the gutter and plunge ahead for good fortune.
- Thread starter
- #31
TONYBLUNTZ420
New Member
When you say speed up my growth .. meaning height wise or bush up and flower quicker...which plant were you talking about with the nutes.. I'm so confused
Faic
New Member
Ok, one thing that will help guide the growth of your plant is how much light you give it. If you keep the light 'dim' or shade, to equate to nature, the plant will grow slower, and smaller than a plant in full sunlight. So by going from 1 to 3 lights, you are providing a better environment and the plant will respond naturally, it will grow. And yeah, faster vertically and laterally within it's phenotype (high brow word for basically 'what personality your plant happens to have". Even clones from the same plant can grow at different speeds, heights, bushiness. But the variations from clone to clone are much smaller than with seeds from the same strain, which are smaller than the variations between different strains all together. If you get kind of lost with that, just remember that every plant is different, and will act differently, but share many common traits. More sun=faster growing is a basic.
But, speed of growth will not affect time of harvest, that is a genetic trait. That is a very basic answer and not the whole picture, but you don't need to get sidetracked by that right now. Since you have to manage the plant in such a small space, you have to get this like herbgrowing 210 concept down as you begin growing 101. Right now, don't get distracted by discussions of various types of lights. You're on cfl's, and the clock is ticking. There's much more important things you have to get done. On the light issue, you're good to go with having cfl's, enough of them, and the right color (5000k+ for now).
And the other advanced technique I'd mentioned previously, scrog'ing or screen of green'ing is a method to guide or shape the growth of your plant. The objective in a scrog, is to have all the bud nodes at the same level. So they all grow big and fat at the same time. This is one way people maximize harvest from very small areas.
LST or low stress training is a end of 101 maybe concept, and it's a way to handle your plant as you shape it.
I'll post a couple of pics I picked up somewhere. But you really should wrap your head around it as soon as you can.
The plant I was refering to talking about the nutes is my Audie. I almost killed her and the rest of the plants I started in soil. I'm not the type to say "Use what I use, it is the best!". I'll be happy to say what's worked for me, and why, and leave the final decision to you. But off the top of my head, General Hydroponics, Advanced Nutrients, Fox Farm are the three brands that come to mind. I use GH, and can't say anything valuable about the other two except they're more expensive.
But I will howl at the moon at how beneficial hydroguard and silica blast are to me. I'm gonna check my enthusiasm for a particular brand with the fact I've not used other products that will do the same thing. They're out there, and as you research which nute line to go with, you'll hear about them. See what's out there, and if you need to, just ask what people think of your choice.
But I'd say right now, keep an eye out for mold and feed it 1/4 miracle grow and get reading up on some nutrients. You should be on a limited nute diet already. Right now, to wonk a bit, you're keeping the plant small artificially right now, because you need to and it's by choice. You should get proper nutrients soon, like make a decision this weekend, but it is not urgent that you do so. Your plant will survive happily as it is right now. As long as you're careful with the miracle grow. So don't rush into anything, and make the best informed decision you can.
Once you get the nutes, you are ready to get properly started. Oh, maybe I missed it, but do you have a way to check Ph levels? If not, I would suggest a Ph pen type tester. In soil, you have much more leeway in Ph than for hydro, and the proper nutrients will help keep things stable (when I wasn't using GH nutes, my ph was the cause of many problems that compounded with other problems). Get some ph up/down solutions (test kits aren't expensive, but I think the test strips they come with are too hard to read for beginners) or find out what you can use around the house to adjust the nute mix ph.
Hm I feel like this little important bit has come out of left field. Sorry, but ph is important to follow most of the time. It's not 'urgent' either, but it is another thing piled on your already full plate. As long as you have some way of checking ph, or getting a way to check it within a week or so of starting to feed and grow your plant you'll be ok. Soil is good like that.
So to sum up this overly verbose post... lol. You're at the line, your plant is in the chocks waiting for the start. Providing full light (six bulbs) is telling the plant "GO!". Get your nutrients and a way to check Ph before you add the lights. When you start to grow your plant, you want to not stop or hinder it till you harvest.
But, speed of growth will not affect time of harvest, that is a genetic trait. That is a very basic answer and not the whole picture, but you don't need to get sidetracked by that right now. Since you have to manage the plant in such a small space, you have to get this like herbgrowing 210 concept down as you begin growing 101. Right now, don't get distracted by discussions of various types of lights. You're on cfl's, and the clock is ticking. There's much more important things you have to get done. On the light issue, you're good to go with having cfl's, enough of them, and the right color (5000k+ for now).
And the other advanced technique I'd mentioned previously, scrog'ing or screen of green'ing is a method to guide or shape the growth of your plant. The objective in a scrog, is to have all the bud nodes at the same level. So they all grow big and fat at the same time. This is one way people maximize harvest from very small areas.
LST or low stress training is a end of 101 maybe concept, and it's a way to handle your plant as you shape it.
I'll post a couple of pics I picked up somewhere. But you really should wrap your head around it as soon as you can.
The plant I was refering to talking about the nutes is my Audie. I almost killed her and the rest of the plants I started in soil. I'm not the type to say "Use what I use, it is the best!". I'll be happy to say what's worked for me, and why, and leave the final decision to you. But off the top of my head, General Hydroponics, Advanced Nutrients, Fox Farm are the three brands that come to mind. I use GH, and can't say anything valuable about the other two except they're more expensive.
But I will howl at the moon at how beneficial hydroguard and silica blast are to me. I'm gonna check my enthusiasm for a particular brand with the fact I've not used other products that will do the same thing. They're out there, and as you research which nute line to go with, you'll hear about them. See what's out there, and if you need to, just ask what people think of your choice.
But I'd say right now, keep an eye out for mold and feed it 1/4 miracle grow and get reading up on some nutrients. You should be on a limited nute diet already. Right now, to wonk a bit, you're keeping the plant small artificially right now, because you need to and it's by choice. You should get proper nutrients soon, like make a decision this weekend, but it is not urgent that you do so. Your plant will survive happily as it is right now. As long as you're careful with the miracle grow. So don't rush into anything, and make the best informed decision you can.
Once you get the nutes, you are ready to get properly started. Oh, maybe I missed it, but do you have a way to check Ph levels? If not, I would suggest a Ph pen type tester. In soil, you have much more leeway in Ph than for hydro, and the proper nutrients will help keep things stable (when I wasn't using GH nutes, my ph was the cause of many problems that compounded with other problems). Get some ph up/down solutions (test kits aren't expensive, but I think the test strips they come with are too hard to read for beginners) or find out what you can use around the house to adjust the nute mix ph.
Hm I feel like this little important bit has come out of left field. Sorry, but ph is important to follow most of the time. It's not 'urgent' either, but it is another thing piled on your already full plate. As long as you have some way of checking ph, or getting a way to check it within a week or so of starting to feed and grow your plant you'll be ok. Soil is good like that.
So to sum up this overly verbose post... lol. You're at the line, your plant is in the chocks waiting for the start. Providing full light (six bulbs) is telling the plant "GO!". Get your nutrients and a way to check Ph before you add the lights. When you start to grow your plant, you want to not stop or hinder it till you harvest.
- Thread starter
- #33
TONYBLUNTZ420
New Member
I don't know if I know what in getting into... hahahah.. but I'm willin to try this and make it work tomorrow I'm going to pick up the rest ... ph tester .. I have been using water that has been sitting for 3-4 days room temp and then watering ... tomorrow I was thinking of watering the 2 plants it's day 3 tomorrow morn ..ph up/dwn..when I get these nutes besides the brand .. what kind am I looking for like the big bloom or something Iike that.. have to look it up again and when I by I put a 1/4 of the nutess In a gallon of water...I noticed the small seedling that recently popped up isn't really deep in the soil like I should put a little bit soil around it.. I will post pic..
- Thread starter
- #34
TONYBLUNTZ420
New Member
Again thanks for the advice and help
- Thread starter
- #35
TONYBLUNTZ420
New Member
Again thanks for the advice and help
- Thread starter
- #36
TONYBLUNTZ420
New Member
Faic
New Member
It sounds daunting, and it is a lot of information to be familar with quickly. The good thing is you have a place where you can get knowledgable help, and as long as you can stick to basics first, will go fairly smoothly. Barring everything else that could happen. Lol.
Yeah you could cover that kink up with a tiny bit of soil. The nutes, basically come in the 'basic package' which will contain a usually two or three part system, which will contain a vegatation phase/grow component (call this part A), a micro nutrient component (two part nutes incorporate these into the A or B parts), and a flowering/bloom phase component (part B). You mix all three all the time, and the directions will tell you how much of each to use and when. For seedlings it's customary to only use 1/4 to 1/2 the directed amounts until you see how your plant responds, so you don't over fertilize it.
The hydroguard is a additive that will help prevent root rot. There are several enzyme or microbial or some other name to them out there. Try to get one, and make sure it's good to use for soil. Some things are just for hydro systems. And the silica blast or any silica additive is to give your plant a tougher skin. Makes it more beefy but also more resistant to bugs and diseases.
Beyond that there's bud size boosters and taste boosters and such, but I'd not look at those till your second grow.
Here's a good post on FIMMing vs topping. FIMMing will give you twice the 'tops' or coalas than topping the plant. Since your size is so small, I'd say FIMM your plant once or even twice, and get the hang of threading the branches through a screen. I'd say you want to plan on having the canopy/screen half way up the box at the most, ideally maybe only a 3rd of the way up. Since you want to fill all the space between your canopy and lights with smelly buds
And here's a nice graphic showing how you Low Stress Train a plant and keep it low but growing, this dovetails right into a scrog. I can't remember the thread here where I picked this image up.
And you're welcome
Yeah you could cover that kink up with a tiny bit of soil. The nutes, basically come in the 'basic package' which will contain a usually two or three part system, which will contain a vegatation phase/grow component (call this part A), a micro nutrient component (two part nutes incorporate these into the A or B parts), and a flowering/bloom phase component (part B). You mix all three all the time, and the directions will tell you how much of each to use and when. For seedlings it's customary to only use 1/4 to 1/2 the directed amounts until you see how your plant responds, so you don't over fertilize it.
The hydroguard is a additive that will help prevent root rot. There are several enzyme or microbial or some other name to them out there. Try to get one, and make sure it's good to use for soil. Some things are just for hydro systems. And the silica blast or any silica additive is to give your plant a tougher skin. Makes it more beefy but also more resistant to bugs and diseases.
Beyond that there's bud size boosters and taste boosters and such, but I'd not look at those till your second grow.
Here's a good post on FIMMing vs topping. FIMMing will give you twice the 'tops' or coalas than topping the plant. Since your size is so small, I'd say FIMM your plant once or even twice, and get the hang of threading the branches through a screen. I'd say you want to plan on having the canopy/screen half way up the box at the most, ideally maybe only a 3rd of the way up. Since you want to fill all the space between your canopy and lights with smelly buds
And here's a nice graphic showing how you Low Stress Train a plant and keep it low but growing, this dovetails right into a scrog. I can't remember the thread here where I picked this image up.
And you're welcome
The only reason is I can maintain that number pretty well throughout a grow. In veg, I'm on the low side. In bloom (most critical to me), I'm about perfect, or maybe slightly high in RH. My primary concern is with mold. I have a small space and it is crammed with plants. I prefer to err on the low side.
SORRY! It's been a while since I reviewed recommended RH and I gave bad advice earlier. With his temperatures the RH is excellent for the seedling and veg stages. I use this chart as a rough guideline. The numbers in gold are supposed to represent optimum transpiration rates.
- Thread starter
- #39
TONYBLUNTZ420
New Member
- Thread starter
- #40
TONYBLUNTZ420
New Member
This is I could get now... what other one do I need ... and I can't find a ph water tester
Similar threads
