Foghorn - Bloombox - Noob - 2012

[Foghorn]

 

[Foghorn]

The pics above were taken the last day of the third week. So I have like 3 or weeks left. I read this strain finishes in only 50 days of flower. I'm worried my buds seem super small. They are getting trichromes though. They will get bigger, right?

 

[Xlr8]

The pics above were taken the last day of the third week. So I have like 3 or weeks left. I read this strain finishes in only 50 days of flower. I'm worried my buds seem super small. They are getting trichromes though. They will get bigger, right?

What nutrients are you using again? Are you tracking your ppms - if so how many ppms, and what brand meter are you using (they don't all calculate using the same numbers)? Sorry if you mentioned this previously. They do look a little on the small size, but don't worry - they should get a lot bigger (and that strain is known for monster buds). If you don't mind, tell me what you are giving it right now (which nutrients and additives and how much per gallon), ppm info if you have it, and I'll have a better idea as far as if anything is obviously missing or deficient.

 

[Xlr8]

I moved them Over to the flower side today. They were almost ten inches tall, which is the maximum height the guide book says to allow them to be before moving them to avoid height issues later. I'm only six days from topping and three and a half weeks into veg, but holy crap do I have vegetation! And roots! So I went ahead and moved them.

When I did I noticed a leaf with some nasty spots. I took a pic. That's by far the worst leaf iv shown. There are also a few 1 to 2 ml spots on other leafs. Perhaps six of these small spots over two of the four plants. I'm concerned. I keep reading about needing to listen to your plants, and I know they're trying to say something, but I don't speak plant yet! Can someone translate for me?

And I had a heck of a time seperating the roots. Is there some product, like a bag made of pantyhose type material but preferably stronger, that you can wrap around the basket and let the roots grow into. So when you transplant they're not all tangled. And then just take it off cuzz who cares if they get tangled in the flower chamber. Cuz mine wrapped around the airlines, water pump lines, and each other. That's with just four in there. Is that a retarted idea? Would panty hose work?

Also, when should I turn on my t5s? I can't yet cuz leaves touch. But can as soon as they allow?

This journal probably sucks to read because it's just a bunch of noob questions but it has very helpful to me. Thanks

I just realized I missed this post before... Those spots (tough to tell with the light color) were probably calcium deficiency. Meaning its possible that you were thinking you nute-burned them but in reality might have been under feeding. What do the roots look like? You want white and don't want brown or slimy...

Its okay that the roots are tangled, you can carefully cut any that are too tangled with a sterile scissors if you need to. Perhaps move them to flower side sooner? Just curious, what lighting is on the veg side of that box, I can't remember, is there an MH or just the Neat idea on the pantyhose - not sure, but that might work!

 

[Foghorn]

Thanks for the prompt reply xlr8. I work nights used to posting late and not getting a reply for awhile. I hope your sleeping OK.

But to the question, I'm using the nutes the company sent me. I just checked the web site and it dosnt list the actual manufacturer. I was breaking down the boxes they came in to recycle them and noticed that they just put their sticker over the original manufacturers label. But I forget what it said. I'm not sure how nutes are typically listed, but mine is labeled "grow","common" and "flower". I think it's normally called part A and B or something, they just tryed to make it simple for people like me. Yet I still screwed it up, haha. And the additives. I got the silver package so it only has Carboblast, Bud Boom, and Super B+. yesterday I mixed 115ml's of both common and flower. And 46ml's of each of the three additives. And 60ml's organic tank cleaner. I asked for DM zone like you said, but they didn't have it. So got the equivalent. That and cal-mag. I forget how much. Whatever the bottle said. 1ml per liter I think. So that's 23 ml's of that. It's a 23L resevoir. I have a Hanna ppm meter. I calibrated it when I first got it, and even used it once. It said 91 I think. Or .91, idk. I had no idea what that number meant, or how to change it, or what it was supposed to be, so I stopped thinking about. It's a pretty shitty way to solve a problem. Iv been doing it since I was kid, and ignoring things rarely works. Even when you think it did, it didn't. Anyway..

That's 350ml of nutes put into 23L of RO water. I suppose we could do the math and figure out the parts per million. But if I could do math like that off the top my head I probably would have been smart enough to figure out this whole ppm to begin with, haha.

My nute burn was resolved by dropping to 1/2 strength the first week of flower. From what iv read I should have done that to begin with. I did the first week of veg but forgot in flower. So for week 2 and 3 I bumped up to 3/4, but no more for fear of burning her again. And it's just her in there so I thought maybe there dosnt need to be as many nutes in there. The day after I switched to half the burn stopped. And since I switched to full the leaves that were all yellowed out have started to regain color along the viens. So think they are coming back. I actually pulled some of the lower ones, where the color fade started, and regret it now. I thought they'd be dead forever. Guess not.

So how do I know what my ppm should be? Do I lower it by simply adding more water?

Thanks for the help X.

 

[Foghorn]

Aargh! My leaves are still bleaching out! Their turning yellow slowly, not from the tips in but the whole leaf is losing color at once. I thought it was better after I bumped the nutes to full but it's not, HEEEELP ME! What can I add? What can I leave out of a new mix?

 

[shizznizzle]

Hey Foghorn I left you a reply in Xl's journal sorry bud did not see a link to your grow journal. If you do those things I suggested in the post and maybe put a link in you replies to your journal so the old skoolers can help out as soon as they see your issues. Good luck and I will try and help if I can.

 

[shizznizzle]

Also may help to snap a few pics of the problem outside the grow area as the colors are very tough to see with the lights on them like that.

 

[shizznizzle]

Res temps may be useful too.

 

[shizznizzle]

So generally early flowering nutrients have some level of nitrogen in them however later bloom type boosters often have no nitrogen to them, as hydro is out of my spectrum of growing I am not sure of how you would add nitrogen, other than using an early flowering type nutrient that has some level of nitrogen. The n-p-k rating, ie 3 5 5, would tell you we have 3% nitrogen in the nutrients. I will do what I can to research your setup and nutrients ad see if I can help you. Do not make any hasty decisions and add anything until you are sure whats up. These are very hardy plants but I would say not doing anything until you have the full picture is best. I will be back my friend.

 

[Foghorn]

Res temps. Are 80 when it's hot.

I just added 16.5 if veg... Well see

 

[Xlr8]

Res temps. Are 80 when it's hot.

I just added 16.5 if veg... Well see

Here's what I'd do. First, anyway you can to keep the reservoir cooler would help. What do your roots look like - are they white, or brown and slimey looking? (White is the goal).

I would consider dumping straight water through the netcups to make sure you are flushing out any nutrient salts that have built up, don't be afraid to dump a bunch through them (don't overflow your reservoir, though). Basically, rinsing your roots. Nutrients are at their base, salts. Sometimes that salt builds up and becomes toxic. With your system, those drippers usually help with this, but only to a degree. While you're at it, make sure they aren't clogged, which happens. If it were me, I'd also do a reservoir change and go to 1/4 strength nutrients for a day or so at "transition"* dosage levels.

Then, I'd administer your nutrients at 3/4 strength the next day, and keep it simple. Again, use a "transition" nutrient mix. I'd do this for 3-5 days until they look like they are rebounding. During this time, I'd keep it simple -- just try to do the base nutrients (no bloom additives) and the B vitamin additive I think you said you have. I really wish you were able to get the Dutch Master "Zone" product, because the organic alternative you mentioned isn't really the same, and doesn't always work well with your type of DWC system. I'm guessing what you got is something like "Hygrozyme"? I'd highly recommend finding a way to get the Zone eventually (perhaps online?) especially with those high reservoir temps. You really need to try to get those down, too, as 80f is waaay to warm for the reservoir. I know you are doing those icecubes, but consider taking several water bottles and freezing them - then, stick them in the reservoir plastic and all, sealed up and frozen, to get the temps down. Try not to let it sit right on the roots if you can while it's frozen, but you need to reduce the res temps urgently if they get that high.

*Most nutrients have a recommended mix for "transition" period. Usually, it's equal amounts of each part - giving you a mix of vegetative and bloom nutrition. This is just because you are in an emergency "fix" situation. Alternatively, as OG13 mentioned, you could go to your vegetative formula for a few days. I'm not familiar with the nutrients you are using, so you'll have to investigate a little perhaps.

Last but not least, make certain that you are checking the PH daily. 5.5 to 6.2 is fine. Set it at 5.5 and let it drift to 6.2 before adjusting again. Oh, and figure out how to calibrate and use your PPM meter and start using it every res change. Until you get used to it, check it a few times a week to gain understanding of what's happening. Make sure you properly calibrate them and learn how to use them - they are really valuable tools especially when you are learning to grow with hydro...

Once things are looking good, and you have problems on the mend, go back to using bloom boosters and additives if you want (carefully).

I think that's what I'd do, right or wrong, so I'm hoping it works/helps. and let me know if you have any questions...

X

 

[Foghorn]

Soo good to hear from you X! I will order DM zone tonight online. My roots are pearly white though. But I want to use the best I can. I just put ice bottles in the res. a cooler will set me back 400-500$ and I don't have that much unwifeable income right now. I mIght tell her I need brakes or something. She won't know. (love you if you found this

I can't do the switch today, Im about to go on shift, but I will first thing in the morning just like you said.

I'm sorry again for dumping in your thread. I panicked and didn't know what to do and I was tired, and... Ya, I'm sorry. It won't happen again.

And ofcourse thanks for the advice. I wish I could pay you back but I will certainly pay it forward.

 

[Foghorn]

 

[Foghorn]

So I bought a product called Nitrex. I'm going to add it at 1/4 strength of what the bottle says. Anybody familiar with it? It's all organic so I shouldn't be able to mess it up too bad. I'll start real low.

 

[Xlr8]

So I bought a product called Nitrex. I'm going to add it at 1/4 strength of what the bottle says. Anybody familiar with it? It's all organic so I shouldn't be able to mess it up too bad. I'll start real low.

Hang on! I hope you don't use that before reading this, but organic-based is a bit of a no-no with active hydro systems like yours. If you're talking for a mom in coco, it's probably great, but I wouldn't put anything organic in your system, personally. In DWC systems (you have this) the organic based nutrients and additives can cause great amounts of sludge and gunk, and just not work as planned. There are some limited exceptions to this, but it's pretty safe to say, you want to steer clear of organic nutrients with your system. Kind of a bummer, but the reward is that DWC is a really really effective way to grow nice plants - the cost is you will have a difficult time using most organic nutrients and additives.

Your base nutrients probably have plenty of nitrogen in them, but the nitrogen is perhaps locked out due to either improper PH or nutrient salt build up in the medium. I wish you knew the total PPM's you've been running at, but the only way to know that is to have measured it (it can't be calculated based on what you put in). It sounds like you have been keeping your PH in check. Are you certain the PH meter is accurately calibrated, and how often do you check the calibration? (I check mine every 2 weeks or so and often need to tweak it a little).

Those last pics didn't look too bad to me. The truth is, as someone else mentioned (shiznizzle?), that the fan leaves should yellow as they mature, but it's a little early from what I would expect to be yellowing so much. That said, not totally unheard of for some of them to be yellowing, either. It's difficult to tell from the pics though as the reddish tint can mask a lot of yellow, too.

What is your water source again... tap, or RO, or distilled, or ? That might help too (sorry if I missed it).

 

[Foghorn]

Crap, it's in. I'll change it tomorrow. Ugh. Back to WalMart for more RO water. That's what iv been using. But it phs at like 7.3. I thought it was supposed to be 7.0. But my Hanna TDS meter says 92 now. Whatever that means. I wrote it on the corner of my bathroom mirror do I can keep track. I check my oh st least twice a day so I'll check my ppm at the same time. Ppm is part per million, and TDS is total dissolved solubales, and they're the same thing, right? I'm asking because I'm not sure. The hydro store ordered the DM zone today. I'll have it this week.

Thanks for having my back X.

 

[Foghorn]

I think the bleeding has stopped, so to speak. I got the DM gold zone and mixed my nutes to 3/4 strength, boosters at 1/2. I adjusted my ph meter again, and it was much more off than the last time I had to adjust it. I think it might be that iv gotten lazy and fell into the habit of just setting it on top of the box when not in use. The heat may have messed with it. Idk.

But there is slow new growth, even ass leaves with with damage seem to be staying the same. Does a leaf ever come back after its turned yellow? Or if part is yellow and the rest is green, will the yellow spots ever come back? Or are they dead dead?

I'm hoping the buds will start to grow bigger, faster now. I'm a little disappointed, but considering I put them through a N deficiancy and poorly ph'd water, and weeks of lowered nutes without boosters because of it all, I should be happy it's growing at all.

Pics coming tonight

 

[Foghorn]

Does anybody know when I should start mixing the flower portion of my nutes into the mix for my auto flowers?

 

[Xlr8]

The damage is permanent on the leaves, but new leaves will continue to grow when it's healthy again. In hydro, problems can be rectified quickly, and your barometer is new growth. So, as long as new growth is good, you should be golden. Sounds like things are getting better, which is great.

Oh, and on autoflowers and bloom nutes... I would start feeding them bloom nutrients at about 10-14 days after you see first pistils, personally.