Torst
Well-Known Member
Better stop using Phosphorus in my DWC setup ASAP..... /end sarcasm
Haze Xtreme in flowering stage - Where do I go from here?
No, no and no. You can DUMP on the super phosphate and potassium, as well as chelated iron. All you want. The main thing that will burn plants is too high nitrogen. Contrary to many statements here, I am a user of MG and other non-organic ferts as well as organic ferts, and I do not agree to what many are saying here, like plain water is better than MG. Its simply not true. Plain water is also highly variable in mineral content. With MJ plants you want to apply water soluble ferts at half strength or less though, and more often. I have been using MG on MJ for over 40 years. My horticultural training through UC Davis involved studies of plants and the way that they take up nutrients. Plant roots do not differentiate at the molecular level, and they can and do take up organic and inorganic compounds in the exact same way. Been there, seen it myself in the lab. If you want to grow organic, great. If you want to grow inorganic, that is also great. If you want to grow mixed, great too. Pee on 'em (dilute to 12:1 with water), shovel manure on 'em, use MG on 'em, use bat guano and kelp on 'em. Its all good. They are pigs and they will dine on it all.
Conradino23
Well-Known Member
Ok man, you took it personally while I was just pointing at myths you've been propagating. I don't really give a shit, but I'm gonna explain why I did it. Normally I don't even try to be vocal if I see another one of these "how shitloads of phosphorus makes everything better threads", but fake news is on the rise and I was accidentally pointed to this one in my journal.
You're an organic grower (or at least you think so), so you have to know what mycorrhizae is. This beneficial relation with root fungi is developed by 80% of plant species in this world - this is how most of the plants pull phosphorus from the ground.
At 50 ppm mycorhizal network grows perfectly, at 85 it slows down, at 120 ppm it gets dormant, which means anything above renders it useless (peer reviewed studies are certainly available).
Now you'd think, well I need to soak them in phosphorus then to get it going, right??Well I'm gonna surprise you, you can find enough phosphorus for plants to grow in Sahara and in Death Valley and yes mycorrhizal fungi are in action there too. The reason why it's not lush green there is lack of NITROGEN, not phosphorus.
Cannabis as any other flowering plant uses higher levels of phosphorus in two stages: in the first two-three weeks of veg (to build root), especially when cotyledon is dropped, which is nothing else than reserve of it and other hard to obtain minerals, and in TRANSITION to bloom when it triggers flower formation and pulls other mineral with it, which is why root formation gets really aggressive at this stage as both things are related.
Now why do you see these nutes like 10-30-20 for bloom? This is nothing else than a push by companies that produce phosphates and other synthetic fertilisers. You use them, they get rich, your plants get a shitty deal.
Now if you want to check cannabis tissue analysis, you're gonna find out that after evaporating water (yeah big deal, more important than phosphorus) what remains is MOSTLY nitrogen, which plant can use in three different forms both in veg and in flowering. Why there's so little phosphorus? For all above mentioned reasons.
Why would phosphorus communicate that winter is coming or create multiple budsites then? It doesn't. You're repeating bullshit that someone wrote without checking botanical facts and that's why I had to step in.
But yes phosphorus is important and crucial for plant's development, it's just VERY rarely limiting element. In fact commercial mixes are so saturated with it that you need to grow your plant 3-5 times before you reduce it to organically acceptable level and that comes from High Brix work we've been doing here, where you apply phosphorus rich drench once or twice in flowering, that's it! You raise your Brix to acceptable level and then it's all calcium, magnesium, sulphur and NITROGEN... in flowering, can you believe it?
Conradino23
Well-Known Member
I've had my supersoil-bat-guano-compost-bloodmeal share of the action and I didd grow 13 footers that way that yielded more than 3 lbs of smoke, which in my conditions wasn't bad at all, but this is over for me. You can never achieve a superior quality that way unfortunately and you definitely weaken resistance of your plants to mould and pests and the taste somehow is always dirty. Nothing beats High Brix in my opinion and I've been growing for 14 years LOS style.
Conradino23
Well-Known Member
And a bonus for those who still refuse to do their homework, which I pulled from American Rose Society website:
American Rose Society
American Rose Society
Oh, I do my homework. I have multiple university degrees. Interesting that you post from the ARS. I used to be a grower/tester for the AARS in San Diego, and I typically grew 10-20 rose strains for evaluation when I lived there. I was a member of the ARS and AOS (American Orchid Society) for many years. I have awards from both. I have also been published in several journals and regional rose society magazines (specifically about plant fertilizers and nutrition). But whatever.
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