Is my soil magnesium deficient?

I think it's more of a K lockout, too much Ca will do that. Will also screw Mg availability cause all three are related. Ca to Mg should be about 7:1, it gets bigger or smaller and you'll see top leaves with yellow tips and margins. K shouldn't be too high, and it's rarely a case if deficiency, but it's enough that you put too much Ca in the mix, and K stops being available. It's all about the balance. Good luck with fixing the problem.
 
Thank you everyone for this excellent discussion and especially conradino and heirloom... I have learned a great deal about mineral interactions in this thread and until now in my learning curve, I must not have been ready yet to encounter Mulder's chart. I feel I must now apologize to you Conradino... you had some very good points that I missed while trying to passionately argue for supersoil and molasses, and I forgot to keep learning as I did so. Thank you for staying cool, and patiently explaining why the magnesium was being locked out.
 
As I understand lockouts, adding more of the locked out nutrient won't do much of anything. So if the Pro-tekt and the Lang don't change much, that should confirm that excess Ca is the problem. Right? If that's the case, is repotting in low- or no-calcium soil the only fix? I'm not inclined to fully uproot my plants, but I could still move them into bigger pots with a mix that balances things out.
 
Wait it out, maybe they're gonna deal with it. Depends how strong is the rootzone.
 
Timmo, Heirloom, Conrad,

This is something I have been working on for a few days that may help.

The quantities are for a mix I did with what I had on hand, with a lot of help. That batch is doing a good job with a Kosher Kush I have had in it for about 70 days now. In that time I have collected everything that is in the worksheet. I am working up another batch that I want to start in the next few days.

I don't know what kind of numbers to shoot for myself or how to treat long, short and medium term release rates. So, don't take the amounts as best, it is just what I wound up with. Any help here will be appreciated.

I separated out the lime because it is one of the topics here. There are a lot of variables with it. Then you get into Ca, CaO, CaCO3,Ca(HO)2, CaCO3 equivalent, Mg,MgCO3, Oregon Lime Score, E.N.P. and E.N.V. Two months ago I thought I had this figured out. When you say seven to one Cal/Mag, is that (Ca)/(Mg) or some combination of (Ca)/(Mg) and the Carbonates and Oxides? The chemistry class I had was high school 52 years ago.

There are a lot of blank spaces. If anyone knows some of them I will update the chart.

The Gram total column should read 2500 grams not 5500.

I never know
Capture157.JPG
Capture236.JPG
 
I refer to Ca and Mg as to calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate, the popular organic forms. Yep there are different ratios but you should push for 7:1 or 8:1 at worse. Then there are two forms of calcium in the soil I mean two parameters: soluble and insoluble, which both add to total. If you add a lot of magnesium in form that is hard to be broken down into cation form this will contribute very slowly to its availibility. And this you achieve in organics by providing healthy and balanced microlife. Funghi will feed on it, bacteria will break it with their acidic enzyms and they will release it eventually. Soil cannot actually breaks anything without microlife living the shit out of it, so there's a key. Inoculate first and monitor how your plants react to different things, changes, feeding and whatever. Plant cannot kick a fuss if she grows in perfect conditions. There is always genetic factor, but that's why you should research your strains.
 
Back
Top Bottom