Leaves canoeing

[Yann1211]

Turns out Ph was out of range below 5.5 and couldnt absorb phosphorus and magnesium. I guess Ph drops when you put it in soil...

 

[Sueet]

Turns out Ph was out of range below 5.5 and couldnt absorb phosphorus and magnesium. I guess Ph drops when you put it in soil...

Not ALL soil, the one you are using has lime and peat moss as a buffer. That said, I am wondering where you got the 5.5 number from. Promix is not likely buffered that hard, it wouldn't be very useful as soil.

I may be out on a limb to say this, but it is my understanding that in soil (Not LOS -living organic soil) the only pH number that is important is that of the liquid you introduce (water and/or nute solution), because it is known that the soil pH will drift right back to where the manufacturer set it... in most cases back up. I usually see 6.3 as the target preferred liquid pH for soil grows.

 

[Yann1211]

Not ALL soil, the one you are using has lime and peat moss as a buffer. That said, I am wondering where you got the 5.5 number from. Promix is not likely buffered that hard, it wouldn't be very useful as soil.

I may be out on a limb to say this, but it is my understanding that in soil (Not LOS -living organic soil) the only pH number that is important is that of the liquid you introduce (water and/or nute solution), because it is known that the soil pH will drift right back to where the manufacturer set it... in most cases back up. I usually see 6.3 as the target preferred liquid pH for soil grows.

Well i had suspitions because the stems were getting purple, even the main one, so i did a mix with 6.8 and the runoff was 5.4 so i'm guessing it was very low and I read yesterday about that a bit, which type of soil or growin gmedium would you recommend then?

Edit: i'll be doing a slurry test when the soil gets a bit more dry

 

[Emilya Green]

I may be out on a limb to say this, but it is my understanding that in soil (Not LOS -living organic soil) the only pH number that is important is that of the liquid you introduce (water and/or nute solution), because it is known that the soil pH will drift right back to where the manufacturer set it... in most cases back up. I usually see 6.3 as the target preferred liquid pH for soil grows.

Sueet nailed it. Unless you are using some special soil that is acidic, like for growing orchids, you potting soil does not need testing or adjusting. Just make sure the water coming in is at the correct pH as noted above, and everything is automatic from then on. Testing runoff pH in soil is meaningless... this practice comes from the coco hydro world and has no usefulness in soil at all.

 

[Yann1211]

Thanks for all your replies )

 

[Yann1211]

Hello, sorry for reviving this thread but everyone has been very helpful! So i did as suggested gave her just a plain water with balanced ph and it gave this, (pictures below) the soil didn't even dry yet and it's just getting worst, tried spraying it with epsom salts today as i did a bit of research and thought it could be magnesium deficiency, still have to see how that goes.

I'm looking forward to your replies!

 

[Sueet]

So which of the two plants is this, and are you saying you haven't watered or fed in two weeks?

 

[Yann1211]

Sorry, i agree it was kind of vague. This is the cinderella 99 the one who was borderline nitro toxic after getting that advice I forgot and gave a normal feeding, after that one i gave plain water and thats when the simptoms started

 

[NuttyProfessor]

I would also be careful with the slow release pellets they can knock the ph off , if you ph your water lower they can break down quicker and cause problems faster , ( ive never liked them )

 

[NuttyProfessor]

Well i had suspitions because the stems were getting purple, even the main one, so i did a mix with 6.8 and the runoff was 5.4 so i'm guessing it was very low and I read yesterday about that a bit, which type of soil or growin gmedium would you recommend then?

Edit: i'll be doing a slurry test when the soil gets a bit more dry

this will give you a rough idea whats going on , if its high going in and really low coming our then the base is acidic and your right , its not a perfect reading but it does help slightly

 

[Yann1211]

I would also be careful with the slow release pellets they can knock

I would also be careful with the slow release pellets they can knock the ph off , if you ph your water lower they can break down quicker and cause problems faster , ( ive never liked them )

That's great info, what type of soil do people grow with?
i would try mixing my own but didnt understand what "2 "parts"" meant

 

[NuttyProfessor]

The soil MG it comes with 3/4 months of feed some up to 6 months , what does the label say on yours , these are the soils to try avoid slow release , they look and sound good but are not the best, i have been there had bother so never used the MG again ,

 

[Yann1211]

The soil MG it comes with 3/4 months of feed some up to 6 months , what does the label say on yours , these are the soils to try avoid slow release , they look and sound good but are not the best been there had bother so never used the MG again ,

Noted! I would like to try hydro next time, sounds easier to change the water is there's any problems.

 

[NuttyProfessor]

Noted! I would like to try hydro next time, sounds easier to change the water is there's any problems.

where are you based ?,

coco is pretty straight forward , just keep low feeds right ph and they grow nicely less chance of problems as long as you buy a good prebuffered coco

 

[Yann1211]

where are you based ?,

coco is pretty straight forward , just keep low feeds right ph and they grow nicely less chance of problems as long as you buy a good prebuffered coco

My light schedule is inverted though, light off at 10am then the heat of the day goes right onto the garage, maybe you're right about the temperature, which brings me to the point, how does everyone keep low temps in their tent? I have an inline fan with the carbon filter on the outside (so much dust) and an exaust. Plus i got two fans in there. My temps are still at 27*.

And yes i will try coco next time was just expensive and descided to cut cost there, seeing the results now.

 

[Yann1211]

.

 

[Sueet]

I may be confused, does your soil have nutrients mixed in it? I didn't think it did. It is my thought that your girl just has a lockout from the excess nitrogen. If it were me I would probably go a couple more rounds pH water only. Also tho, how long between waterings at this point?

 

[Yann1211]

I may be confused, does your soil have nutrients mixed in it? I didn't think it did. It is my thought that your girl just has a lockout from the excess nitrogen. If it were me I would probably go a couple more rounds pH water only. Also tho, how long between waterings at this point?

No the soil was about a year old when i used it and so far she was doing great, when i fed it PH water she began to show signs of deficiency, i'm scared another round might do her in.

 

[Sueet]

The thing is, it probably isn't actually a deficiency. Lockout is when the nutrient is right there in the soil, but the plant cannot access it. Yes it ACTS like a deficiency, but what you really need to do is let her recover from the excess nitrogen and as she does, with the pH'd water she will be able to take in those nutrients that are just sitting there unused.

eta: also, you didn't answer about how frequently you are watering.

 

[Yann1211]

The thing is, it probably isn't actually a deficiency. Lockout is when the nutrient is right there in the soil, but the plant cannot access it. Yes it ACTS like a deficiency, but what you really need to do is let her recover from the excess nitrogen and as she does, with the pH'd water she will be able to take in those nutrients that are just sitting there unused.

Right, so i might be diagnosing the right kind of deficiency but for the wrong reasons. That makes a lot of sens actually.