Blazekingg
Well-Known Member
I had one bend like that i just supported
Sent from my SM-G930W8 using 420 Magazine Mobile App
Sent from my SM-G930W8 using 420 Magazine Mobile App
My First Time
- Thread starter Jackleen
- Start date
Tomula
Well-Known Member
Hello, nice girl you have in there! Suggestion about the tinfoil: do not use tinfoil as a reflector of light the shiny side is less reflective than the dull side and it can create hot spots and burn your plant. Use white glossy paint instead. Other than that, good job. 
Be careful with 20-20-20. Easy to burn little ones with some of the nute's you have.
Looking good!
Looking good!
- Thread starter
- #25
Jackleen
New Member
Looking good jackleen. Thought I already had subbed on your journal, sry I am here now
- Thread starter
- #27
Jackleen
New Member
Hi everybody
Today first lady is 30 day old
I add another MH 400 W .
Now i got 2 MH 400 W .
temp around 25 C .
Today i bends the first lady
And she is looking good .
Hopefully within 3 days got good news.
Small baby today complete 10 days . She's looking good
Today she got feed with mix of groth +calmag +algoroot . The total mix about 45 mm ..
jackleen
Today first lady is 30 day old
I add another MH 400 W .
Now i got 2 MH 400 W .
temp around 25 C .
Today i bends the first lady
And she is looking good .
Hopefully within 3 days got good news.
Small baby today complete 10 days . She's looking good
Today she got feed with mix of groth +calmag +algoroot . The total mix about 45 mm ..
jackleen
- Thread starter
- #28
Jackleen
New Member
- Thread starter
- #29
Jackleen
New Member
Tomula
Well-Known Member
Yes you can but with miserable results. You can grow from seeds on 12/12 schedule, that's similar to autos. Also you can make a mother plant, then put the clones right under 12/12.
- Thread starter
- #31
Jackleen
New Member
Tomula
Well-Known Member
Mother plant is the plant you take clones from. If you make a clone from auto that is 15 days old the clone is also 15 days old plus you waste some time rooting it and it starts flowering at the same time as the mother plant. So you end up with one bigger plant and one small one, all the time wasted on rooting and shocking the plant. Or you can veg plant unlimited time (years even) and take cuttings-clones from her and put them to flower after time. For this you need veg tent (20/4, 24/0, 18/6 light) and flower tent (12/12 light). This way you can have almost unlimited clones for flowering. I hope you get it there are many tutorials for even small mother plants. Happy growing!
Like Tomula said, if you want to grow auto's and clone them, you'd be better off growing photo's keeping them under 12/12.
Keep a plant to take cuttings from. This is your mother. It stays in veg so needs a separate veg/clone area (longer light schedule, like 18/6). Once the cuttings root, you move them to the 12/12 grow room for blooming. They will act much like an auto with lower yields but quicker turnover.
Keep a plant to take cuttings from. This is your mother. It stays in veg so needs a separate veg/clone area (longer light schedule, like 18/6). Once the cuttings root, you move them to the 12/12 grow room for blooming. They will act much like an auto with lower yields but quicker turnover.
- Thread starter
- #34
Jackleen
New Member
No.
Auto's will go into bloom, ripen, then die. As far as I know, there is no way to keep an auto in veg which is the key to keeping a mother plant.
- Thread starter
- #36
Jackleen
New Member
- Thread starter
- #37
Jackleen
New Member
I found these article and copy it here . Thanks to 420
To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. <u>Diagnose carefully</u> before making major changes.<br />
<br />
1) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2. b) If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.<br />
<br />
2) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen(N) deficiency. b) If not, go to #3.<br />
<br />
3) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency. b) If not, go to #4.<br />
<br />
4) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency. b) If not, keep reading.<br />
<br />
5) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and leaves may be small. >> Phosphorus(P) deficiency. b) If not, go to #6.<br />
<br />
6) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K. b) If not, go to #7.<br />
<br />
7) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray, brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N). b) If not, go to #8...<br />
<br />
8) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >> Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely). b) If not, go to #9.<br />
<br />
9) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning. b) If not, go to #10...<br />
<br />
10) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency. b) If not, go to #11.<br />
<br />
11) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency. b) If not, #12.<br />
<br />
12) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn) deficiency. b) If not, #13.<br />
<br />
13) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency. b) If not... You may just have a weak plant.<br />
<br />
<b><u>The Nutrients</u></b>:<br />
<br />
<b>Nitrogen</b> - Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.<br />
<br />
<b>Magnesium</b> - Mg-deficiency is pretty common since marijuana uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have enough of it. Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water) or foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.<br />
<br />
<b>Potassium</b> - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"
, too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.<br />
<br />
<b>Phosphorous</b> - Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.<br />
<br />
<b>Iron</b> - Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency.<br />
<br />
<b>Manganese</b> - Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use chelated Mn.<br />
<br />
<b>Zinc</b> - Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients-lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc.<br />
<br />
<b>Check Your Water</b> - Crusty faucets and shower heads mean your water is "hard," usually due to too many minerals. Tap water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) level of more than around 200ppm (parts per million) is "hard" and should be looked into, especially if your plants have a chronic problem. Ask your water company for an analysis listing, which will usually list the pH, TDS, and mineral levels (as well as the pollutants, carcinogens, etc) for the tap water in your area. This is a common request, especially in this day and age, so it shouldn't raise an eyebrow. Regular water filters will not reduce a high TDS level, but the costlier reverse-osmosis units, distillers, and de-ionizers will. A digital TDS meter (or EC = electrical conductivity meter) is an incredibly useful tool for monitoring the nutrient levels of nutrient solution, and will pay for itself before you know it. They run about $40 and up.<br />
<br />
<b>General Feeding Tips</b> - Pot plants are very adaptable, but a general rule of thumb is to use more nitrogen & less phosphorous during the vegetative period, and the exact opposite during the flowering period. For the veg. period try a N
:K ratio of about 10:7 :8 (which of course is the same ratio as 20:14 :16), and for flowering plants, 4:8 :8. Check the pH after adding nutrients. If you use a reservoir, keep it circulating and change it every 2 weeks.<br />
<br />
<u><b>A General Guideline for TDS Levels is as Follows</b></u>:<br />
seedlings = 50-150 ppm; unrooted clones = 100-350 ppm; small plants = 400-800 ppm; large plants = 900-1800 ppm; last week of flowering = taper off to plain water. These numbers are just a guideline, and many factors can change the actual level the plants will need. Certain nutrients are "invisible" to TDS meters, especially organics, so use TDS level only as an estimate of actual nutrient levels. When in doubt about a new fertilizer, follow the fertilizer's directions for feeding tomatoes. Grow a few tomato or radish plants nearby for comparison.<br />
<br />
<b>pH </b>- The pH of water after adding any nutrients should be around 5.9-6.5 (in rockwool, 5.5-6.1). Generally speaking, the micro-nutrients (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu) get locked out at a high pH (alkaline) above 7.0, while the major nutrients (N, P, K, Mg) can be less available in acidic soil or water (below 5.0). Tap water is often too alkaline. Soils with lots of peat or other organic matter in them tend to get too acidic, which some dolomite lime will help fix. Soil test kits vary in accuracy, and generally the more you pay the better the accuracy. For the water, color-based pH test kits from aquarium stores are inexpensive, but inaccurate. Invest in a digital pH meter ($40-80), preferably a waterproof one. You won't regret it.<br />
<br />
<b>Cold</b> - Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can lock up phosphorous. Some<br />
varieties, like equatorial sativas, don't take well to cold weather. If you can keep the roots warmer, the plant will be able to take cooler temps than it otherwise could.<br />
<br />
<b>Heat </b>- If the lights are too close to the plant, the tops may be curled, dry, and look burnt, mimicking a nutrient problem. Your hand should not feel hot after a minute when you hold it at the top of the plants. Raise the lights and/or aim a fan at the hot zone. Room temps should be kept under 85F (29C) -- or 90F (33) if you add additional CO2.<br />
<br />
<b>Humidity</b> - Thin, shriveled leaves can be from low humidity. 40-80 % is usually fine.<br />
<br />
<b>Mold and Fungus</b> - Dark patchy areas on leaves and buds can be mold. Lower the humidity and increase the ventilation if mold is a problem. Remove any dead leaves, wherever they are. Keep your garden clean.<br />
<br />
<b>Insects</b> - White spots on the tops of leaves can mean spider mites<br />
underneath.<br />
<br />
<b>Sprays</b> - Foliar sprays can have a "magnifying glass" effect under bright lights, causing small white, yellow or burnt spots which can be confused with a nutrient problem. Some sprays can also cause chemical reactions.<br />
<br />
<b>Insufficient light</b> - tall, stretching plants are usually from using the wrong kind of light.. Don't use regular incandescent bulbs ("grow bulbs" or halogens to grow cannabis. Invest in fluorescent lighting (good) or HID lighting (much better) which supply the high-intensity light that cannabis needs for good growth and tight buds. Even better, grow in sunlight.<br />
<br />
<b>Clones</b> - yellowing leaves on unrooted clones can be from too much light, or the stem may not be firmly touching the rooting medium. Turn off any CO2 until they root. Too much fertilizer can shrivel or wilt clones - plain tap water is fine.
To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. <u>Diagnose carefully</u> before making major changes.<br />
<br />
1) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2. b) If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.<br />
<br />
2) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen(N) deficiency. b) If not, go to #3.<br />
<br />
3) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency. b) If not, go to #4.<br />
<br />
4) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency. b) If not, keep reading.<br />
<br />
5) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and leaves may be small. >> Phosphorus(P) deficiency. b) If not, go to #6.<br />
<br />
6) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K. b) If not, go to #7.<br />
<br />
7) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray, brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N). b) If not, go to #8...<br />
<br />
8) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >> Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely). b) If not, go to #9.<br />
<br />
9) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning. b) If not, go to #10...<br />
<br />
10) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency. b) If not, go to #11.<br />
<br />
11) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency. b) If not, #12.<br />
<br />
12) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn) deficiency. b) If not, #13.<br />
<br />
13) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency. b) If not... You may just have a weak plant.<br />
<br />
<b><u>The Nutrients</u></b>:<br />
<br />
<b>Nitrogen</b> - Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.<br />
<br />
<b>Magnesium</b> - Mg-deficiency is pretty common since marijuana uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have enough of it. Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water) or foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.<br />
<br />
<b>Potassium</b> - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"
, too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.<br /><br />
<b>Phosphorous</b> - Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.<br />
<br />
<b>Iron</b> - Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency.<br />
<br />
<b>Manganese</b> - Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use chelated Mn.<br />
<br />
<b>Zinc</b> - Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients-lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc.<br />
<br />
<b>Check Your Water</b> - Crusty faucets and shower heads mean your water is "hard," usually due to too many minerals. Tap water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) level of more than around 200ppm (parts per million) is "hard" and should be looked into, especially if your plants have a chronic problem. Ask your water company for an analysis listing, which will usually list the pH, TDS, and mineral levels (as well as the pollutants, carcinogens, etc) for the tap water in your area. This is a common request, especially in this day and age, so it shouldn't raise an eyebrow. Regular water filters will not reduce a high TDS level, but the costlier reverse-osmosis units, distillers, and de-ionizers will. A digital TDS meter (or EC = electrical conductivity meter) is an incredibly useful tool for monitoring the nutrient levels of nutrient solution, and will pay for itself before you know it. They run about $40 and up.<br />
<br />
<b>General Feeding Tips</b> - Pot plants are very adaptable, but a general rule of thumb is to use more nitrogen & less phosphorous during the vegetative period, and the exact opposite during the flowering period. For the veg. period try a N
:K ratio of about 10:7 :8 (which of course is the same ratio as 20:14 :16), and for flowering plants, 4:8 :8. Check the pH after adding nutrients. If you use a reservoir, keep it circulating and change it every 2 weeks.<br /><br />
<u><b>A General Guideline for TDS Levels is as Follows</b></u>:<br />
seedlings = 50-150 ppm; unrooted clones = 100-350 ppm; small plants = 400-800 ppm; large plants = 900-1800 ppm; last week of flowering = taper off to plain water. These numbers are just a guideline, and many factors can change the actual level the plants will need. Certain nutrients are "invisible" to TDS meters, especially organics, so use TDS level only as an estimate of actual nutrient levels. When in doubt about a new fertilizer, follow the fertilizer's directions for feeding tomatoes. Grow a few tomato or radish plants nearby for comparison.<br />
<br />
<b>pH </b>- The pH of water after adding any nutrients should be around 5.9-6.5 (in rockwool, 5.5-6.1). Generally speaking, the micro-nutrients (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu) get locked out at a high pH (alkaline) above 7.0, while the major nutrients (N, P, K, Mg) can be less available in acidic soil or water (below 5.0). Tap water is often too alkaline. Soils with lots of peat or other organic matter in them tend to get too acidic, which some dolomite lime will help fix. Soil test kits vary in accuracy, and generally the more you pay the better the accuracy. For the water, color-based pH test kits from aquarium stores are inexpensive, but inaccurate. Invest in a digital pH meter ($40-80), preferably a waterproof one. You won't regret it.<br />
<br />
<b>Cold</b> - Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can lock up phosphorous. Some<br />
varieties, like equatorial sativas, don't take well to cold weather. If you can keep the roots warmer, the plant will be able to take cooler temps than it otherwise could.<br />
<br />
<b>Heat </b>- If the lights are too close to the plant, the tops may be curled, dry, and look burnt, mimicking a nutrient problem. Your hand should not feel hot after a minute when you hold it at the top of the plants. Raise the lights and/or aim a fan at the hot zone. Room temps should be kept under 85F (29C) -- or 90F (33) if you add additional CO2.<br />
<br />
<b>Humidity</b> - Thin, shriveled leaves can be from low humidity. 40-80 % is usually fine.<br />
<br />
<b>Mold and Fungus</b> - Dark patchy areas on leaves and buds can be mold. Lower the humidity and increase the ventilation if mold is a problem. Remove any dead leaves, wherever they are. Keep your garden clean.<br />
<br />
<b>Insects</b> - White spots on the tops of leaves can mean spider mites<br />
underneath.<br />
<br />
<b>Sprays</b> - Foliar sprays can have a "magnifying glass" effect under bright lights, causing small white, yellow or burnt spots which can be confused with a nutrient problem. Some sprays can also cause chemical reactions.<br />
<br />
<b>Insufficient light</b> - tall, stretching plants are usually from using the wrong kind of light.. Don't use regular incandescent bulbs ("grow bulbs"
or halogens to grow cannabis. Invest in fluorescent lighting (good) or HID lighting (much better) which supply the high-intensity light that cannabis needs for good growth and tight buds. Even better, grow in sunlight.<br /><br />
<b>Clones</b> - yellowing leaves on unrooted clones can be from too much light, or the stem may not be firmly touching the rooting medium. Turn off any CO2 until they root. Too much fertilizer can shrivel or wilt clones - plain tap water is fine.
Spookies
New Member
Good morning Jackleen! That was pretty neat. Looking professional as usual and fun to see. Good job.
Spooky
Spooky
- Thread starter
- #39
Jackleen
New Member
Thanks alot .Mother plant is the plant you take clones from. If you make a clone from auto that is 15 days old the clone is also 15 days old plus you waste some time rooting it and it starts flowering at the same time as the mother plant. So you end up with one bigger plant and one small one, all the time wasted on rooting and shocking the plant. Or you can veg plant unlimited time (years even) and take cuttings-clones from her and put them to flower after time. For this you need veg tent (20/4, 24/0, 18/6 light) and flower tent (12/12 light). This way you can have almost unlimited clones for flowering. I hope you get it there are many tutorials for even small mother plants. Happy growing!
- Thread starter
- #40
