New Grower, planning my new grow space

I mentioned earlier that I use oral syringes to measure

This is a very important chapter in my learning, and i dont want to miss understand ur Great graph

You explained that the upper chart is for 100l amount of water. The lower chart is what you used 18l ( 5gal bucket) and reduced further to 33% . The first two rows are only 1l. Because little water is used in the grow beginning i think.

What i dont get is the unit of measurement those numbers represent in ur colored chart, i have a difficult time interpreting graphs, my weak point......

My guess is the syringes you use are the units of measurement (ml.)
 
I have a thread over in GrowLites while i try to digest nutrients (haha) and units of measurements.

DIY LED lite kits from HLG are the bomb, i learned a little about drivers. I really like that the 288’s come with matching heat sinks, learned the difference between the 301’s and the 561’s, but Wiring the boards i have questions about series and parallel if it changes anything, my guess no as its all 12vdc......
 
Might want to wait then.

Ok, i have about 95% of the mechanics, i have a good idea what part they all play in the process.

OldSalt got this ball rolling with his suggestions on small 4” pots of coco/perlite for the germinated seed, and the shotglass of water to gauge consumption.....

How many nodes before she gets moved to her big pot final destination, i believe there was also talk of topping and waiting for new shoots before that.......
 
Plants have different nutrient requirements as they mature. There are several manufacturers providing multiple nutrient solutions to add to your water. You have to add two or more, the volumes depending on the stage of growth. I chose the General Hydroponics Flora Trio as it has a long history of use with cannabis. My thought was it would be easier to get help when things went wrong. Reading through multiple posts here, and elsewhere, I found that at full label strength as recommended by the manufacturer, they were too strong and would cause nutrient burn. A common thread was start at far less than 50% and work your way up. I chose to start at 25% and keep it constant throughout the grow, unless the plants showed signs of nutrient deficiencies. My last successful grow was at 33%. Here is the feed schedule I used:

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General Hydroponics Feed Schedule - 33% of Label Strength

Flora Micro, Grow, and Bloom are the core nutrients, and are required. Flora Micro is available in two formulations. One for hard, the other for soft water.

CALiMAGic is a supplement I use as my water source is a Reverse Osmosis filter. It is often required in lesser amounts with other water sources.

Rapid Start is an additive used to promote fast and healthy root growth.

Floralicious Grow and Plus are additives to promote plant vigor. Floralicious Bloom was discontinued at the time I purchased my nutrients, so it is not shown. Floralicious Plus is my substitute. These products leave a deposit on the walls of my watering buckets, so I don't know whether or not they'll clog drippers in automatic watering systems.

Liquid and Dry KoolBloom are supplements to increase bud production and weight. I start with the liquid, and switch to dry when the trichomes start getting cloudy.

Flora Kleen is used to flush the salts from the plants prior to harvest. When the desired percentage trichomes have turned amber, I use it at full strength for four days, followed by four days at half strength, and four days of water with CALiMAGic. Why four days of each? That's how long 18 liters of the water/ nutrient mix lasts.

I strongly recommend using the metric system when mixing nutrient solutions. Accuracy is important, and using the metric system makes accuracy easy. I weigh my water to accurately get the desired volume. One liter weighs one Kilogram.

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Weighing Water to Get an Accurate Volume

I use 1, 5, and 10 ml oral syringes to measure out the liquid nutrients. An accurate 100gm X .01gm scale is used to measure the dry KoolBloom. I also have calibration weights for my scales to ensure accuracy.

TDS meters (Total Dissolved Solids) are used to measure the nutrient concentration. In most hydroponic systems the concentration will vary as the nutrients are taken up by the plants. The TDS needs to be checked and possibly adjusted daily for these systems. Coco systems do not need the daily checks, or even to check new solutions if they are accurately mixed. I have one, but it's only use is to check the condition of my RO membrane monthly.

A method of measuring pH is critical to the success of all hydroponic systems. There are pH test strips and drops available, but these are notoriously inaccurate. I highly recommend an accurate pH pen or meter. Go for a minimum accuracy of 0.05 pH and precision of 0.01 pH. Accuracy refers to the measurement performed by the tester, precision refers to the display of that measurement. Most hydroponic systems require daily measurements and adjustments, while coco based systems require measurement and adjustment only when mixing a new batch.

I strongly suggest calibrating your TDS and pH meters at least weekly. I calibrate before each use.

One last question, what were you growing with this schedule, would you use this as a predominant schedule ?
 
One last question, what were you growing with this schedule, would you use this as a predominant schedule ?
25%, and 40% were Crop King's Crown Royale
33% was for Nightingale and V.C.D.C.
 
My LED lighting search has halted at a semi diy using the HLG 288 panels with matching heatsinks, 301’s probably. I would like to use a pair of drivers per (2) panels, instead of one larger driver incase of failure, i’d still have half of my lites.

I will be constructing a frame for (4) 288’s in a 4x4 tent. Should i center each panel over each 2’x2’ square, there would be four 2x2 squares, or am i over thinking this, thanks for ur input
 
I'd be tempted to split it into two lights with two panels on 2' centers and a driver for each. That gives you more flexibility to run strains that differ in height. Leave some room in the frames so you can add supplemental lighting such as UV, IR, and far red if you want to at a later date.
 
Some do, others don't. Check with your vendor. If it has one, often it's a smaller door than the one in the front of the tent, more of an access hatch than a door.
 
It depends on how you grow your SCRoG. If you limit it to a little less than your arm length, you will be able to maintain it from the front. A SCRoG needs a lot off attention while it's filling your screen.
 
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