Serpent
New Member
it does look that way but the first pic looks like the PH is wrong what type of plant are you growing that will help as i see purple in the stem of the leaves that may be mag problem
Yeah you have a minor pH issue started that is easily fixed by watering correctly. But if you think you have over watered than most assuredly you have because you don't need to water a plant that size in that size of a pot more than once a week. And there in lies the rub...to fix the real issue you have you need to add properly pHd water but first you want to dry it out. Over watering can cause a lot of problems including permanent long term damage and death. pH is easily fixed and once corrected the plant will be fine.
So I would let her dry out to the point the the leaves are showing it to be under watered. Then put enough pH'd water through to have 15-25% of the water come out the bottom of the pot and do it such that all that extra water run off goes away. Do not leave it in the saucer. I would put the plant in the sink, pH it and let all the run off go down the drain and after it is done draining off the excess (like 10 min later) put it back in the grow room.
The spots and the interveinal chlorosis are not from the over watering but are from a pH problem.
So I would let her dry out to the point the the leaves are showing it to be under watered. Then put enough pH'd water through to have 15-25% of the water come out the bottom of the pot and do it such that all that extra water run off goes away. Do not leave it in the saucer. I would put the plant in the sink, pH it and let all the run off go down the drain and after it is done draining off the excess (like 10 min later) put it back in the grow room.
The spots and the interveinal chlorosis are not from the over watering but are from a pH problem.
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Your call man but I think you are early enough in the grow that this will be fine.
I like to use fabric post which help drying out because you can put a fan on pot...just for future reference.
The pant doesn't look that bad in the photos here. They can handle a lot of stress. Just get your temps high like in the upper 80's and let the room humidity drop a bit like down to 40% and even placing a small fan blowing on the leaves / soil will help speed up the drying out.
But that said you could pH it now if you want but just make sure you dry it completely out afterwards. In general you want to wait for signs of under watering before adding the next watering. It will make the plant much stronger and make the root system able to support a bigger plant.
But know this. Patients is the most important tool you have. A good soil blend and a good closet only needs to be check about once a week. getting in there every day and messing around doesn't help if you have things dialed in. People get in there and water every few days thinking that is helping and they are just soaking the tap root and killing the plant.
The plant is so young that you really can't screw it up too bad except for over watering it. Even if you did some nute burn that can be flushed and it will come back. But over watering can cause rot and disease and makes a nice home for fungus gnats.
If you want to pH it now make sure you do it in the sink so all the run off goes away and let it sit there for 10 min to get all the run off gone before putting it back in the tent with the drip pan. You want nothing to come back to the tent. You want the humidity in the tent to come form that soil as you want it to dry out ASAP.
I like to use fabric post which help drying out because you can put a fan on pot...just for future reference.
The pant doesn't look that bad in the photos here. They can handle a lot of stress. Just get your temps high like in the upper 80's and let the room humidity drop a bit like down to 40% and even placing a small fan blowing on the leaves / soil will help speed up the drying out.
But that said you could pH it now if you want but just make sure you dry it completely out afterwards. In general you want to wait for signs of under watering before adding the next watering. It will make the plant much stronger and make the root system able to support a bigger plant.
But know this. Patients is the most important tool you have. A good soil blend and a good closet only needs to be check about once a week. getting in there every day and messing around doesn't help if you have things dialed in. People get in there and water every few days thinking that is helping and they are just soaking the tap root and killing the plant.
The plant is so young that you really can't screw it up too bad except for over watering it. Even if you did some nute burn that can be flushed and it will come back. But over watering can cause rot and disease and makes a nice home for fungus gnats.
If you want to pH it now make sure you do it in the sink so all the run off goes away and let it sit there for 10 min to get all the run off gone before putting it back in the tent with the drip pan. You want nothing to come back to the tent. You want the humidity in the tent to come form that soil as you want it to dry out ASAP.
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Thanks a lot man, you've provided me with some insightful information. If I do pH it now, should I bring the humidity of tent down to 40% and increase temperature?
so I can't diagnose your issue prop420. Topping and LST do not cause problems like this.
All I can say is if it looks like what we are discussing then it might be what we are discussing.
All I can say is if it looks like what we are discussing then it might be what we are discussing.
Yes all I am saying is to aid in drying it out take the humidity down to the bottom of the acceptable range and run the temp to the top of the acceptable range. Then place some fans on it and it will dry out fast than in a colder wetter environment.
Here this is from a website I have bookmarked...
The only 3 other things that look remotely close are...
1) a very odd micro nut deficiency due to pH being wrong
2) rot in the roots causing nute deficiencies
3) Fungus Gnats causing nute deficiencies
I say dry it out and pH it and you will be fine. If that doesn't work and you killed the roots then we can recondition the soil to get new root grow started and get rid of the infection.
If you have Fungus gnats you put about 1 inch of vermiculite on the top of the soil. Then they will go away on there own. When they land looking for soil to bury into they will not find any and fly away. After the larvae that are in there are done there will be no more problem.
Here this is from a website I have bookmarked...
The only 3 other things that look remotely close are...
1) a very odd micro nut deficiency due to pH being wrong
2) rot in the roots causing nute deficiencies
3) Fungus Gnats causing nute deficiencies
I say dry it out and pH it and you will be fine. If that doesn't work and you killed the roots then we can recondition the soil to get new root grow started and get rid of the infection.
If you have Fungus gnats you put about 1 inch of vermiculite on the top of the soil. Then they will go away on there own. When they land looking for soil to bury into they will not find any and fly away. After the larvae that are in there are done there will be no more problem.
@Prop420..I think your only problem is not using a good light. I don't see anything crazy wrong there. Take 1 good pic in focus of the leaf that shows you something to be concerned about.
I take that back...you are "training" down fan leaves. That aint good and may slow growth. The fan leaves do all the photosynthesis. You want to let those get as much light as possible. We train stems not leaves. If a leaf is getting in the way we can tuck it under the stem it is blocking but that really needs to happen much later in life, and after there is a stem to tuck under. At your current height I would not be messing with fan leaves.
yeah so it is real hard to get good results from the CFL...you really need to have the right kind and know some stuff. I get it though...on a budget.
I can say that a decent light will pay for itself in one grow. I can get a pound out of a plant...that pays for the whole setup.
gotta spend money to make it work my friend.
Lights do impact the color. I don't use CFL so that my just be how they look on a CFL...I just don't know. A lighter more vibrant green is better than a deep dark green with is a sign on Nitrogen toxicity.
I don't see anything to be alarmed about. If it is your first grow start a journal and beg people to subscribe so they can walk you through it.
I can say that a decent light will pay for itself in one grow. I can get a pound out of a plant...that pays for the whole setup.
gotta spend money to make it work my friend.
Lights do impact the color. I don't use CFL so that my just be how they look on a CFL...I just don't know. A lighter more vibrant green is better than a deep dark green with is a sign on Nitrogen toxicity.
I don't see anything to be alarmed about. If it is your first grow start a journal and beg people to subscribe so they can walk you through it.
